Nov.8 - Watered girls 250mL each, 0.25mL of each nutrient for each plant Nov.9 - Moved these girls into Vivosun tent under Phlizon 1200w light from a Marz Hydro tent 5x5 with Marz Hydro ts 1000 light. We needed to move these girls to this tent and have our DWC in the bigger tent so the DWC plants don’t get too hot at the bottom *once girls were transported to new tent the leaves turned to curl and lift upwards, the light is on veg and is 24” high Nov.10 - Watered girls 250mL each, 0.25mL of each nutrient for each plant Nov.10 - Decided we don’t like the blurple light and took one of our Mars Hydro lights from our big tent and switched it Nov.11 - Watered each plant, 500mL, 1mL of each nutrient. Our girls drank soo fast so we are bumping it up a bit Nov.12 - Our girl #1’s leaves are a little droopy and are looking a bit weird in some spots (darker green and almost wrinkled). Our girl #2 though is going great and we started some LST training on her today. Let her growww Nov.14 - Started our girl #1 on LST her leaves are much happier now! Ohhh boy #2 is sprouting so nice she’s starting to fill out so well and she just blossomed once we started LST, she was facing upwards in less than 24h!! Nov.15 - Our girls are thriving so I wanted to FIM #2 and my boyfriend wanted to Top girl #1 Let’s see how these girls groooww Nov.15 - Watered each girl 250mL and 0.25 mL of each nutrient we are going to water them just enough to soak into the ground every day for them to soak up as much nutrients and drink as possible without over watering.

08.07.21 Pre-soaked the seed for 12 hours in a warm and dark cabinet (22 to 24 degrees C) 09.07.21 Moved the seed onto a wet paper towel and back into the cabinet 10.07.21 HABEMUS SPROUT!!!!!! hubby prepared his lover's bed as follows: 250 ml Water (PH 6.6) 0.5 ml Bio Heaven 0.5 ml Activera 1 ml Root Juice Humidity 61% Day Temp 23.2 C / Nigh Temp 19.6 C

MAY 17th I'll water the 10th planet again tomorrow. Things are going amazing! I topped one of the blueberry cheeses and fimmed another. I'm not seeing any stress. If they seem good I'll hst some of the others. This doing ONE thing at a time helps figure out problems. It's 75 right now but it was 39 this morning. UPDATE: IT STARTED FUCKING SNOWING TODAY. Forecast looks good and others are putting plants out. I'll hold off. They'll go to the garage soon for hardening off. Looking at other diaries I had much bigger "clones" but they always come full of problems (see last year). These plants are the healthiest ivecever grown. I'd rather have a healthy plant half the size than a clone with a bunch of issues. Tomorrow I'm planning to wash my stakes and grow bags. I'll get the palletts in position and move my cage. I also am considering either putting a small pvc cover on my cage or finding a way to attack something to the trellis system for heavy rains. If anybody has ideas I'm all ears. 5/18 DIDN'T WATER TODAY. Soil was dry but the pots were heavy. I could feel some moisture through the drain holes. I think it would've been alright either way but I'm erring on the side of caution. I'll check again later in the day. I topped one and fimmed anotger of the blueberry cheese. The purple punch is quickly catching g up to her sisters. I HAD to add a small ring around one of the purple pounce plants as it was WAAAAY lighter than the others. It's possible it could've gotten less water than the others last time due to its positioning. I'm also considering adding silica next feeding. So much left to do before they go outside. Oh and it was fucking snowing here yesterday! May 17 and it was snowing middle of the day. Morning temp wad 31 this morning so I'm staying cautious and making sure I have all my ducks I'm a row before I go outside. I'm also weighing options to either add a pvc hoop on top of my cage or look into protecting plants individually come late fall with our horrible weather. I'm leaning towards the pvc top. I think that would greatly help things. UPDATE: Went back over at four and everything's looked great. Leaves praying to the sun. Topsoil is dry as fuck but I can still feel a little bit of moisture through the drain holes plus they have a little heft left to them. I plan on watering tomorrow and see how that goes. I wanted to add silica but I'm afraid of changing to much or raising the ph of the soil. 5/19 Found out that my scale will actually weigh the three gallon pots! I don't have an empty one to fill with dry soil to compare though. WATERED everything today. Topsoil was totally dry. Some plants had some heft to them. However I last watered on the 15th so I decided to cut back on the amount of water and see how that goes. Instead of the full 28oz powerade bottle I gave them a little over half. I tried for approx 16fl Oz per plant. Everything is looking great. Other than the little runt. I don't know whatcthecdeal is with that one bit it may get given away or culled. I also FIMed a purple punch. UPDATE: Went back over around 11 and boy weren't the plants looking good. I'm moving my cage and sanitizing my pallets tomorrow. I sanitized my grow bags. I vleaned them with the baking soda and water and a scrub brush but since I had that problem with fusarium last year I then soaked them in a h2o2 solution for 20 mins before rinsing them off and letting them dry. I am so stoked for this season. Wondering about the pvc top and whether it's necessary 🤔. I have TONS of heavy equipment (well dad does) but the smallest thing we have is a backhoe and a bulldozer neither which I'm to inclined to use to move big plants. I thought that since the door to that garage is large enough to drive a front end loader in than if I could find a way to make my pallets mobile I could bring them in if storms are coming. I worry to much. I also got rid of anything that could gave spires on it. Ilk need to wash my plastic trellis netting and the bamboo as well but better safe than sorry. 5/20 Plants are still growing like weeds and are the ones I HST are recovering nicely. Soon they'll go out to the garage and spend their days outside in the sunshine and their nights inside the garage while I harden them off. Having trouble uploading stuff right now. 5/21 Topped two blueberry cheese and one purple punch. Plants are still doing great. We are getting close to go8ng outside in tye forever homes in smart pots ranging from 10gal to 50 gals. I still need to sanitize the pallets but this week I plan on hardening these girls off fully. 5/22 I weighed a couple of the plants and they were different. I think I got a couple 7lbs one that was 6 something and a heavier one that was 8. Looks like I've found the right amount. I plan to water tomorrow. They'll be moved in the next couple days to the garage and I'll let them fill the 3's before they go in their final homes. Plants are recovering from HST great. Still getting cold nights here. Honestly if I didn't have a major life event happen they'd be outside hardening off now 5/23 Watered everything with approximately 18oz of water. I am either going to move plants outside today to indirect sun (even though they've handled full sunlight from an open window) in the garage and keep the light going for a little longer. They need to fill their pots before they go in their forever homes. I've got some work to do but it will pay off. EDIT: Cage has been moved to its new home. A huge pallet takes up most of it but I have littler ones that will fit in. I just haven't had a chance to disinfect these. I'm probably going overboard but I'm not fucking around with that fusarium or other any pathogens this year. I'm going to use the systemic organocide once I go outside. It's going to rain tomorrow amd might be cold but I still move the plants to the garage in the morning.

week 2 Going from day 18 to day 24

Here we go with the 3rd week. The plant in the left corner as been topped yesterday, for the other i'll wait a bit. In the airpot the soil get dry very fast so I've to water often now. Pretty happy for the moment, I think I'll do a long Veg before switching, like 60 days. Let's see 😈😎

What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.

These photos represent the first week of my first indoor cycle. I'd like to emphasize that if the GMOs don't appear at the end of the cycle, it's because they're seeds from a flower I purchased without provenance. The other seeds are all from trusted seed banks. The soil is 100% organic. For further information, Terro Super Soil offers a similar recipe, with the addition of various flours and other ingredients to encourage microbial and fungal activity. In the first week, mycelia began to form on the soil surface, indicating good fungal activity. Along with the mineral addition of lime and nit, Tricoderma Hazarium, a beneficial fungus for rooting and root health, was also added. Just 1 ml per week is sufficient for now.

Hello everyone, Not much to say about this girl. This week I started giving her some nutrients so lets see how she turns out now... See you guys next week.. 🤘🤘👊👊👊

Veg22, riego con 3.0 EC y pH 5.9, drenaje promedio de 5.8 pH y 2.6 EC(muy bien), primer riego con Sensizym para limpiar un poco las raíces, y este será el último riego de vegetación con Voodoo Juice, Tarantula y Piranha. Se hizo una pequeña defoliación de las hojas abanico más bajas y se volvió a ajustar el LST, ya van tomando la forma final. Veg23, creciendo bien. Veg24, se mide la temperatura de las hojas 22°C y se compara con la temperatura del indoor 23°C, con una humedad de 50% RH, la calculadora arroja un valor de VPD=1.24 kpa, lo que está dentro del rango óptimo. Veg25, hoy toca una pequeña defoliación y probaré también hacer un último apical en 2 o 3 plantas a modo de prueba. Al final, tomé un gran riesgo, y hice varios apicales extra y una defoliación más grande de lo que tenía en mente, tengo fe que resultará bien 😎👌 Veg27, riego con 0.8 EC y pH 6.0, drenaje de 6.0 pH y EC 2.0, se están alimentando y creciendo bien, quedan casi 2 semanas para pasar el fotoperiodo a 12/12, espero que crezcan suficiente para esa fecha. Veg28, un par de hojas de 2 plantas presentan mordidas tipo oruga, revise y no encontré nada, aplique spray insecticida, espero no siga pasando. A parte de eso siguen creciendo bien, quedan un poco más de 10 días para el paso a 12/12.

1 week on 12/12 now, no white pistils yet.

Edit from 19th May. Literally 00:09 Pre-Flowering. Fat Banana looks like Hermie. Royal Critical = clean pre-flower. Edit from 19th May. 16:26 Fat Banana had balls sack and pistils growing all over the place. I nuked everything that had balls on it. I left only top node with pistils. Royal Critical is full of pistils, no balls. Now I wish I had photoperiod seeds instead of automatics. I would give Critical 1 extra week in veg. She is around 10-15cm smaller then Fat Banana. I switched the lights back to 400W. Edit from 20th May. 14:45 I think 32C is maximum what these plants can handle. With 600W I was reaching 34C on some top leaves and that could possibly turn the Fat Banana into hermit (she was the tallest). I open the tent a little (front doors), I put big-ass fan on second gear blowing strong wind through the mesh-window of a tent. I put the lights straight up to the ceiling, I literally can't put them any higher. Fat banana is now 58cm tall and around 80cm away from the light. Royal Critical is now 41cm tall and around 100cm away from the light. 50% Humidity 28C under the canopy/on the ground under the leaves 31C Air temperature. Fat Banana fan leaves temperature: 28.5C Fat Banana center/middle of the plant: 30.9C Royal Critical fan leaves temperature: 27.5C Royal Critical center/middle of the plant: 27.8C NOTE: Royal Critical ugly/yellow leaves have higher temp: 29-30C The rest of small plants range from 28 and 32C Surface area/soil temperature DRY: 35C Surface/Soil temp. WET/SHADOW: 28-29C That pistol/laser for checking temps was solid purchase. I can see back of my tent is more hot then other areas. Will do more Temp-Checks in the future. I also deleted few things from "Condition" tab because one day they are correct, the other something change and the info is not accurate anymore. I'll update info here in edits. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date: 20th May 2024 Time: 16:57 Tent status: Side doors little bit open. Both windows fully open. Fan blowing air on second gear outside the tent, West window. Fan insides on full. Lights power: 400W Lights schedule: 18/6 Humidity: 50% Dry soil temp: 35C Wet soil temp:
 28.5C Fan leaves temp: 28.5C 
Center of the flower temp: 30C 
Stem temp: ~32C 
Air temp. Inside tent: 30-32C 
Air temp. Outside tent: 25.5C 
Air temp. Outside house:
 21C ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date:
 21th May 2024 Time:
 15:53 Tent status:
 Side windows full open. Front doors 75% open. Big-ass-fan on second gearwest window. Lights power:
 400W Lights schedule:
 18/6 Humidity:
 50% Dry soil temp:
 36C-38C in front // 38C-40C in back Wet soil temp: 
Fan leaves temp: 28-29C

 

Stem temp: 29C 

Air temp. Inside tent: 31C 

Air temp. Outside tent:

 26C Air temp. Outside house: 20C Details: Smol plants growing stronk! They have little bit crumbled leaves cuz of heat I guess. 32C @ 50% RH is max for my setup. Edit from 22th May. @ 13:10 Nothing changes. Plants are happy and praying to their god ( me ofc :) ) Same temps Same RH I watered them yesterday after long days/weeks of dry season (cuz of FuckYouGnats). Edit from 23th May. @ 11:40am Same temps or even a bit lower then in last two days. I like it. I closed 85% of windows in tent (door fully closed) to create negative pressure that's gonna suck out the hot air. It seems to work better than what I did yesterday. Today I gave them second dose of nematodes. There is really very little Fungus Gnats around now. Sometimes, occasionally one or two "teenagers" or "baby" Gnats would fly out from bottom of pot or top of the soil after watering but that's like nothing comparing to what I had at the beginning. Shit-ton of yellow-sticky-tape does the job as well, just put it everywhere you can. / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZEddFi1W8k / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? Edit from 23th May @ 2pm So I'm reading about VPD now and I think, this is what is happening in my tent right now. High temps but RH at right levels makes the plant comfy in that zones. Right now plants sitting at 30.6C @ 55% RH So I'm sitting at 1.27 VPD? If I could lower my temps to 29C and keep RH at 55% that would be 1.20 VPD (which would be perfect) N o t B a d R o o k I e Edit from 24th May @ 11:24 am So in last 3 days the temperature outside my house is dropping + raining. So that means I have perfect VPD in my tent now. We are sitting at 30C @ 50-55% RH. Most plants have praying leaves, even Lady Banan stops being moody and just start fucking flowering like it should. Finally. But I can see she wanna grow even more upwards, like wtf, this is not 3 meter tent, its only 2.2m, chill the freaking out Lady Banan... Im gonna have literal forest if the rest of Bananas would grow like that. As you can see I'm kinda happy with the grow now. Fungus Gnats still present but under control. Yellow Sticky tape, especially under the mesh window, the tape is catching fuck-ton of these motherfuckers. Few days ago I did "Very Light Stress Training" with Royal Critical. So I basically just tackle the fan leaves in the way, where, when fan leaves are growing bigger, they push the side branches more to the outside (apologize for my English but you can check out the pictures and see what I mean). So she is training by her self, alone, with the power of nature = and it works, she is opening more and more every 2 days. Edit from 25th May @ 21:53 Yoyoyoyoyoyo! So my ADHD and Bipolar kicks in so Idgaf about temps, its colder, around 29C @ 45% They got a lot of fresh air today, I was "luchting" today. I think I had to water them today but... Will do tomorrow morning. I'm thinking about Pimpology classes for myself, for better communication with the bitches, you know what I mean... They ain't thickening up if they aint stressing! Edit from 26th May. Sunday. 7am DOUBLE DROP NEVER STOP LET THAT BEAUTY POP 69 PLANT SIZE: BANAN = 72CM CRITICAL = 65CM 😎

Zweite Woche überstanden die Autos machen sich gut nur die Frostbanger struggelt noch Habe angefangen mit ein wenig LST Eine Ztrawberriez wurde getoppt

1/10 Week 10 Both are in flush and from the looks of the tricones these are the most potent plants we have grown to date. Drinking has really slowed down but keeping the un-PH one gallon daily flush since tap water is cheap. Annie doing very well under the LED lamp, TS-1000 plenty large enough for one plant in flower. This is encouraging for plans to replace the HID with either a TS-2000 or TS-3000(preferred) this spring before the summer heat. Just a few more days....😎 1/11 Bud pics Harvest Belle on 1/13 - Annie 1/16 Just getting them ready. taking off some useless leaves etc... 1/14 Harvesting Belle today, let her dry out one last day. Annie harvest at weeks end. Harvest pics and total numbers at end of week when I take Annie 👉BELLE HARVEST 963 grams wet 👈 Annie got her last watering today, harvest in two days 1/15 Harvesting in about 12 hours, pics and numbers then

So one thing about this strain that was kind of a bummer was the smells were literally all over the place in a great way. Sour gummies worms from the keef, diesle/gas from the leaves, and lemon hard candy/carrots/dab carts from the buds but when smoked it, the floral taste was so rounded that the other smells never came thru except the purple one that had tight smaller buds, had a lemony taste still. (Remember had to cut early from braking). On the other hand, the way this plant grew had me in a state of personal amazement. I was actully super excited telling my friends that it got TOO BIG for the branches. Buds stacked perfectly on every plant. The topping and recover time went smooth. She shaped nicely right before flower. And back to my negative statement that I had..... the smells were INCREDIBLE!!! I recommend it to everyone soly for the smells.

OH. MY. GOD. Smells like chocolate, berries, and skunk. I cannot stress the absolute crazy terpene profile on these man. I am STOKED for harvest in about 4 weeks. A very long growing strain but worth the wait! Bought some rock resinator and starting next week will be using it for a couple weeks before flush and harvest!

Can I just say, these plants growth and development have been awesome, in the beginning she just grew horizontally and at a snail rate, but in my absence it’s like she was preventing her growth, and the problem with Monday’s Blue, it’s pot was not filled to the brim with grow medium (alike Unknwon Strain), unlike the other 4 plants so it did not get enough wind and sunlight, but guess what, nature always makes a plan. Look at her now.

18 weeks from seed to harvest. Love 34 street seeds, quality genetics for a fair price. These garlic cookies showed no disease or pest issues, no mold or powdery mildew. Easy enough to grow, no surprises, no super stretch in flower, but I would recommend training or SCROG to control them. Pungent Pine is what I am callling this smell, over 800 grams wet weight. They are hanging to dry in my tent as I write this, 60 %RH and about 71 degrees of freedom units! Can’t wait to try it out 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨

Bigggg plant!!

2 weeks to flower in main tent. Red Hot May have had a little nute burn. Lighting is at 628 on Par meter. 78deg avg. Malt was accidentally super cropped. Healing from splitting her branch. Oozecake aka Judy is my prize now. She fought through some mold 1st week. Transplanted her with only 1 node. Then her 2nd transplant to 1 gallon she was stunted for a week.

I cut feeding towards the end of week 8 , the plants could have easily gone for another week but at this point the tops were loosing all colour so I decided to harvest at the end of week 8. The trichomes were cloudy and clear with a few Amber.