She was pretty much on AutoPilot all week. Growing and drinking like crazy.Running out of head room and i hope she gets the point here soon lmbo… More below ⬇️⬇️⬇️ 8/16: Trimmed down dead/half dead leaves from bottom of plant. Feels good to see just all green without the couple of eye sores. She still a sexy girl! Topped of rez with the rest of her nutes in half gallon jug. I’m n to half gal jug of water before next nutrient batch mix. 8/17: Just been topping off the rez all day! She has been drinking heavy! Will need to mix another batch of nutes tomorrow. 8/18: Mixed new batch of nutes today. Mixed in gallon jug. Split into half gallon jug. Topped off rez with full half gallon jug then some plaint water from half gallon jug. 8/20: Mixed another batch of nutes for the week.

All good at the end i topped them and made cuttlings from it that do well now the canopy is nice and even Most hickups with the FG system are gone and next week we go to 12:12😁

Good day everyone, So right now I clean the plant with water. I just correct the PH to 6.3-6.5 and use simple water with PPM 180-200. the plant looks very nice. Please see the pictures - looks like winter time, all plant covered with snow :) I like it. the smell is fruity. After about 4-5 days I will harvest it and will update the report with the results and smoke experience. Good luck

This strain is just incredible, perfect indica high with a sativa sidenote It grows strong and is quite resistent to mold. All plants were done after about 60 days of flowering. First time i used a tumble trimmer and it works perfectly. I didn't check PH or EC at all

Hello happy Growers! This week was better than early, I've founded few very litle banana spend the week, I will continue to check this week, Harvest will be in 2 or 3 weeks, I hope can take situation under control untill harvest. If banana start to be too big, I'll remove the branch. If no, buds start to be compact, Nice sweet smeel and sticky, Probably my last fertilizer week, after I'll start flush Plant start to take less water, sign harvest for soon :) Have a good week my friends

This week great did a top dress couple days ago so just watering at a ph of 6.5 for now ...till flush in about 2 3 weeks

starting off week 2 with a res change, had my ppm in the 500 if she struggles ill bring her back down..... roots are coming along nicely was starting to get root rot due too my temps sky rocketing and having too much water in my res.... roots seem to be coming good after lowering water level high ppm seem to be not a problem.. started folding leaves to expose lower nodes.. think i will top at end of week 3

Fantastic week. Lots has changed. Plants are stacking something fierce! I cut out the nitrogen completely this week, qnd that's how it will stay for the duration of the rest of the grow. I have found with autos, i have had the best luck when I push them hard with nitrogen up until this stage in growth. I then cut out the nitrogen completely and up the bloom nutes quite dramatically. For the rest of the grow I will feed every watering. Water at a 6.4 ph. Gro- 0ml per gal Micro- 10ml per gal Bloom- 15ml per gal Bug bud- 5ml per gal Very much looking forward to watching this batch swell!! These Hubbabubbasmellascope are a strange run! 3 plants look one way, the other 3 look totally different. But stacked with bud sites nevertheless. Next week I will add photos of them side by side. This strain is coming along nicely, with a strong smell of double bubble!

Strain: Black Haze ((Sir Jack x Skunk Auto) F6 x Pakistan Chitral Kush) F5 Breeder : Exotic Seed Autoflower 10 Weeks Week 1 (Day 1-7) Planted seed into 1,5 BioBizz Lightmix/ Plagron Perlit and added a few grams Mycotrex Setup:GrowTent: 100x100 Secret Jardin HS100 Exhaust: PrimaKlima PK125WHSP-EC Filter: PrimaKlima K2601-125 ClipFan1: AC Infinity Cloudray A6 ClipFan2: AC Infinity Cloudray S6 Fertilizer: BioTabs / only Water strategy Soil: Biobizz Lightmix + Plagron Perlit

Hi

I didn’t yield as much as I would like but I did get some quality flower 83 ofgrams worth between the three cardi b plants, and about 74 grams of 2 envy mintz plants I did have a lot of stress in the beginning which got corrected late and also I might have flipped too early , but all in all it’s some tasty beautiful flower definitely running again gonna do 1 plant this time so tune in for that journal

Day 77 - June 18 June 18 - 06.00AM One Amber trichome found. Will water with 5L of water at 6.3PH this morning. Wilted leaves are still springy. I'd like to defoliate but will wait until they're completely wilted. June 18 - 06.45AM Soil is still cold, a little moist. I'll water at approximately 9AM June 18 - 10.45AM Removed dead leaves to avoid pests (as sharing tent with outdoor plants at night). June 18 - 10.45AM Watered 4.5L to runoff at 6.3PH. Time taken approximately 1 hour to saturate soil. June 19 - 09.00AM Trichomes are starting to morph from clear to cloudy. Each clear head is now about 50% cloudy. There are slightly more light amber trichomes appearing. I suspect just under a week remaining. June 20 - 07.00PM Found another amber trichome on a more developed cola. With more half-clear trichomes becoming cloudy. I suspect I'll chop in 5 days or so. Leaf necrosis is developing further with some fan leaves (with trichomes) are decaying. I'd really like to see more purple by this stage, but I'll settle for a pineapple fade. June 22 - 08.20AM Temperature ate 78F at ground level. TOO HIGH! Had to turn the AC off due to partner being cold overnight. Possibly lost terpines+potency - frustrated. Trichomes still seem too clear for my liking. June 22 - 10.40AM Watered 4-5L to runoff at 6.3PH. Should have watered yesterday, though pot was still relatively heavy. Removed one dead leaf resting on budsite. June 23 - 06.00AM Removed a few dead leaves. Trichomes are still cloudy. Some milky, it's close - though little to no ambers. June 24 - 07.00PM Removed more dead leaves + 1 healthy accidentally. Trichomes are about the same. Removed all LST ties.

Start of week 3 today.. Only running 4 x250w hps due to high outdoor temps..max 33c low 23c in tent..topped all at the 5th/6th node. Ec 1.1 ph range between 5.9 and 6.1 ph perfect advanced nutrients..

hellooo growers,❤️ crazy week last week, from police helicopter flying again around and near my growlocation from diffrent hights but not for 15min but more like 6 hours...That's really abnormal so we will see... and with growing last week was a heavy one because I had my first fungus gnats infestation ,(mystery where they come /came from I think some teleportation lol ) it started really slow but within couple of days it was not a couple but dozens so that was not funny, with some research I came 2the conclusion yellow sticky papers/plates and canna cure was not solving the problem but more running behind the problem.. so that was a mistake.. I read about mites and little nematodes , fascinating stuff, I know very little about them and they where a eye opener on a lot of different ways. love to learn new things.. I think the infestation did some damage in slow grow but I'm not sure because I never grew amnesia auto before and this is my second grow in total so.. but after a couple of days after I released the nematodes and mites i saw i huge diffrent in flying around gnats, and now 11-12 I only saw 2 or 3 in total last 3 days so that's great! the smell is strong already a fine sweet but strong present aroma with a hint of citrus smell, amazing... now and then I close my eyes and focus on the great smell it gives and sometimes with fascination thoughts.. 12- 12 I see already some of the girls are growing very good now so that's great to see I give the lady's all 700ppm from canna call/mag agent 20ml a 15 L or Atami callmag 20ml a 15L Canna A& b 35ml a15L rhizotonic 25ml a15L cannazyme 25ml a 15L BAC sillica power 5ml a 15L canna cure spray every 3the day lights power draw is 150watt of 480w quantom boards and the viparspectra p4000 also 150watt and the rubol Josephine 50 watt farRed cob is always on 50watt stay tuned new updates in progress! Cheers🤛🏻❤️

A big THANK YOU to Weedseedsexpress for giving me the opportunity to run this diary. The Permanent Marker Auto strain is really good for first time growers. It responds well to LST and defoliation and recovers fast from stress. Definitely one of my favorite grows this year.

Some nice Balcony Bombs forming, internodial distance is still very short and i did not notice much of a stretch overall to be honest. The Smell is getting more intense day by day, but the profile is kinda flat, albeith sweet. Excited to see it further down the road

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Sweet Seeds, Sweet Auto Mix.. Day 60.... I think thats all its got... Pretty much ready to chop... Fading out with trich's starting to amber.. Following High Powered Organics Island-Blend Grow Guide... Happy growing friends 🇦🇺

Day in and exit fan 15 min off 15 min on Van is full on Night in and exit fan 30 min off 15 min on Van is full on