ok guys so i figured i would do a video update this week instead of pictures now that we got some flowers growing! This girl has to be a "Super Sativa" Pheno just look at them leaves and flowers. She is also the smelliest girl in the tent and when you touch her your fingers are OILY not sticky until you rub them together a little bit then its superglue! she will not stop praying to the LEDs either! lights go off shes praying, lights come on shes still praying!

She is looking abit jealousy you can tell she didn’t have time but she bouncing back to life now ive cleaned her and some defoliation and lets see how she will perform so far so good thou

Seit ein paar Tagen duftet die Cookie Gelato, der Geruch ändert sich von Tag zu Tag. Sie entlaubt sich sogar selbst, ich hatte das eh nicht mehr vor😁

Everything is going ok no roots yet on the clones but we got a week b4 we need to worry Temps steady humidity steady will be topping of res with more nutes todau

Transfered into 5 gallon fabric pots. Pics shown are from the end of week 2 veg.

She’s getting updated more often on Instagram the tags @smokeygrow_ …..This week iv let her do her own thing she’s loving the Phlizon pl1000 hopefully get her under the 2020 240w pro soon the colours on this girl are unreal really showing her full potential I seriously think this is one of the nicest colours iv seen in the actual nugget it’s self 🍓🥤 what do you think 💭

Day 84: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 975 ppm, 2070 us/cm, PH 6.4 Flushed plants with 10L clear water Day 86: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 955 ppm, 2029 us/cm, PH 6.4 Flushed plants with 10L clear water Day 88: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 980 ppm, 2089 us/cm, PH 6.4 Added 1ml of bloom/top mix (5 ml/l total) Flushed plants with 10L clear water

It was a good week for Night Nurse👍 Now that they're in the ground they're doing much better and putting out more growth. The one on the end could have better color, since her new growth is a bit yellow. I gave her an extra feeding last night after I transplanted some Calendula into the bed since it's a good pest repelling companion. We're getting some much needed rain today🙏 Otherwise there's not much else to report! Update 6/26- I totally forgot to add that on Monday the garden got a spraying of horn manure. Horn manure is a biodynamic preparation of cow manure that's been fermented in a buried horn. This results in a material that's teeming with beneficial flora and fauna for the soil. Ideally it would be sprayed prior to planting in the spring as it encourages healthy root growth. I purchased the pre-potenized so that I only had to spend 20 mins stirring rather than an entire hour. That would have been brutal😵 I sprayed it at night when the earth is breathing in and used a spruce bough to sprinkle it over the plants in the garden. The extra icing on the cake was that there was a rain the day before, and another the day after I sprayed so it was well watered in.

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Everything fine. She likes to eat what she get and she is on the way to build up many flowers. I‘m really waiting for this one. Wanted to buy this strain in my cannabis pharmacy, but it was always sold out. I grow up Tropicana Cookies Auto, too. Tropicana Cookies I could buy one time in the pharmacy and this was one of the best strains I ever vaped, perfect balance between body and head feeling. So let’s see if I can grow my own quality medicine.

Sorry for brevity we have been going non-stop trying to get all the produce harvested ahead of the freeze. Well she did her best in a difficult growing season, cold and the lack of sunshine had its effects we could not get around, Still she produced and that in the end is what is important. Next year we will do better :) Now for Zombie Quasimodo - she had to be harvested ahead for the freeze tonight and yielded 51g wet, Nice considering we already harvested this plant for few ounces weeks ago and we just noticed green in the compost heap... not including her in the total as she was an experiment and proof that if the germination rates were good this strain would be fantastic. 54 grams dry almost and I mean almost lost the main bud to bud rot, one more day or two and it would have been worthless. As it was lost a few grams like all the outdoor plants. crap hides from you

It has been a journey but I'm happy it's over. Would have liked it to go another week or 2 but I'm happy with what I got. She smells like cotton candy and I can't wait for a taste. ☺️🤤

Week 10 - Second Week of Flowering 🌸 As week two of flowering begins, the garden’s growth is unstoppable! These ladies are thriving, stretching up while staying beautifully vibrant and green. Every inch of this tent is optimized—each plant is soaking up light, nutrients, and water precisely as they need, filling the room with energy. Room Conditions 🌡️ • Temperature: 27.3°C • Humidity: 62.6% • CO₂ Levels: 800 ppm • VPD: 1.36 kPa (excellent range for robust flowering) • Lighting Intensity: 818 PPFD Solution & Medium 💧 • Solution Temp: 21.5°C | TDS: 470 ppm | pH: 6.02 • Medium: Moisture 100% (recently dried to 67%), TDS 510 ppm, Temp 22.5°C The “dry-out” to 67% was a strategic move, helping boost nutrient uptake and root strength. Meanwhile, our slight increase in reds seems to be having the desired effect, nudging these ladies further along in the flowering process. Eye Safety & LED Lighting 🌞🕶️ With powerful LED systems like the ThinkGrow and ICL-300, eye protection is critical. LED grow lights emit high-intensity light across the full spectrum, including intense UV and infrared components that are not easily detected by the human eye. Long-term exposure without adequate protection can lead to eye strain, and in extreme cases, damage to vision. • Blue Light Hazard: LEDs often have elevated levels of blue light, which can harm the retina over time if proper precautions aren’t taken. • UV Protection: Even low doses of UV can accumulate and harm eyes, so grow glasses with UV protection are essential for any indoor gardener. Investing in quality grow room glasses can help protect from glare, UV, and infrared rays, making plant care safer and more comfortable. Lighting Enhancements: ICL-300 In-Depth 🔆 The ICL-300 is our newest addition, specifically designed for inner canopy illumination. This LED offers a targeted light boost under the canopy, enhancing flower growth in lower and shaded areas—ideal for maximizing yield and light efficiency. • Dual Spectrum Technology: The ICL-300 provides a custom spectrum designed to penetrate deeper into the plant canopy, promoting robust bud formation throughout. • Enhanced Light Distribution: With strategically positioned diodes, the ICL-300 reduces shadowing and balances light distribution to all parts of the plant. • Energy Efficiency & Heat Management: This light is designed to be energy-efficient, running cooler and reducing the risk of heat stress within the grow space. The inner canopy light gives the plants exactly what they need, particularly during the flower stage when bud sites deep in the canopy can benefit from more direct exposure. However, after noticing slight leaf burn on some plants, I’ll hold off a bit longer before fully integrating this light to ensure optimal adjustment. Looking Forward 🌟 As we continue dialing in conditions, it’s all about balance, precision, and taking proactive steps to optimize every aspect of the grow environment. We’ll keep a close watch on the canopy height, and next week, I’ll aim to fine-tune the light integration even further with the ICL-300. P.S. - ICL-300 and CO₂ Sensor 🌱 The TrolMaster CO₂ Sensor (MBS-S8) has been crucial for real-time CO₂ adjustments, ensuring the plants get exactly what they need without constant monitoring. Combined with the ICL-300’s spectrum flexibility, these tools make an unbeatable setup, allowing for nuanced control over plant growth and development. As always, a huge thanks to the Grow Fam for the tips, support, and enthusiasm! I’m excited to see what these next weeks will bring as these plants reach their full flowering potential. Stay tuned for more updates, and don’t forget: eye safety first, growers! 🌞🌿 Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

Refilled the Botaniums today, 7 days after the previous fill, as I saw they were completely empty. One of the plants is starting to show a tiny bit of weird coloring on some leaves and the texture of the leaves is also a bit strange. The other plant looks completely healthy.

What up fam, weekly update on these lovely ladies. They're growing great so far. Seeing new upwards growth and new leafs with zero signs of deficiency. I started adding 2ml per gallon of the Athena Grow A & B and 2ml of General Hydroponics CalMag this week to see how they respond and all in all its been Happy Growing.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Top Gun #2 finishing up nicely, checking for mold every day, humidity is back in the 50s. I just trimmed up Top Gun #1 yesterday. 9 day dry, humidity started dropping into the 40s the last couple of days. Only one other tip of the buds had some mold on it. I’m smoking it idc🤷. Total dry weight was 50grams minus the molded buds, I’ll make butter with those. Small plant but smoking it right after drying it was one of the best things I’ve tried, very proud.

Nada, otra semana más engordando un poco más y cambiando poco a poco los tricomas a color ámbar.

2 week