day 42: LOTTA leaves, had to defoliate 2-3 times. they started to show their first pistils a couple days before the Ayahuascas, hope I can do a harvest before May,(the Peyotes) but it seems really tricky..unfortunately I need to leave them for a week in April. I'm pretty scared to leave them alone at the end of flowering... Day 43: do you think the leaves on 2 plants might be too dark green? Thanks! day 46: defoliating

Ho tolto due Crystal Candy XL e la Grape Rolex v2 al giorno 70 da seme. Le due Crystal Candy XL 91gr e 105gr mentre la Grape Rolex 108gr. Le prossime tre Crystal Candy XL verranno tolte tra due giorni quindi al giorno 79 da seme dopo 10gg di soluzione finale Advanced Nutrient. A settimana prossima con qualche foto in più 🖐️💪

She’s in full swing now :)

Everything seems to be going great. The buds are developing nicely and there are no signs that plants are stressed at all. I hope they continue to fatten up over the next few weeks for a good harvest!

------------------------------------------------- Day 22 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.4° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 56% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 23 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.6° celsius @ 46% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (27.1° celsius @ 51% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 24 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.2° celsius @ 51% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.7° celsius @ 40% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 25 (Feed day: 15 tbsp Worm castings + 5 tbsp 2-8-4 Gaia Green Power Bloom) Water: 0.5 Gallon RO water + 5ml Remo VeloKelp Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.1° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.0° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 26 **LST** Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.8° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.5° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 27 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.7° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.4° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 28 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.7° celsius @ 50% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 50% RH) -------------------------------------------------

Looking pumpy very frosty closing weeks

Growing

Los últimos tres días de la semana pasada fueron cruciales , han evolucionado super bien, espero poder mejorar esta semana enormemente Le voy a aplicar enraizante de top crop y top veg cada uno 2 ml por litro de agua , esta semana para poder mejorar mas aun el crecimiento Actualizacion de la semana Su crecimiento han sido notable, la altura del foco la bajaremos para ver si podemos subir la temperatura Actualizacion Estos ultimos 4 dias han sido un huracan de crecimiento, ayer en la noche la ampolleta de haluro que ocupaba para el crecimiento de vegeta se quemo y bueno siempre tengo otra ampolleta por si acaso pero esta es una ampolleta que sirve para todo el proceso de vida! el color es amarillo por eso de aqui en adelante estaran coon esta luz que nos acompañara hasta el final si es que no explota tambien jajaaj

Have reduced feed to half strength of Cycos Platinum range nutrients which seems to be perfect for the Phatt Fruity. Weight is starting to be put on and colas are starting to droop, may have to tie them up to support the weight in the coming weeks (hopefully)

Seems to be doing well. I still can't place the smell. I think it will be tasty and potent.

the c99s got ten days of plain water then came the chop at week 10 and 3 days with a fairly decent 30% amber all things considered !

Love how these are looking. Did defoliation and have also fed cal/mag, recharge, and epsom salt.

420Fastbuds StrawberryGorillaAuto Week 4 What up grow fam. Weekly update on these 3 wonderful ladies. This week I did introduce some nutes and the plants seem to respond amazing. Starting to see little pistols so guessing this will be the last week of veg before the transition into flower. All in all Happy Growing

Sherb Biker, starting to crystal. The purples and dsrker hues should begin to appear soon and these buds will swell very big over the, next little bit. Nothing much to report. Decided after reading some articles about using chlorine/bleach as a sterilizing agent. Going to test it out and compare the final product to one finished about 2 months earlier.

Day 65, 14th of November 2020: Nice! Topping has stopped her to grow and strech too much which is good she is more chubby type strain so i expect some thickness lol.... Pre flowers and pistils are out so just waiting for the fruit lol ;) Really nice all good. Fertilization happens every 2nd day with the ratio and mix above. I set the lamp 15 minutes shorter to switch off earlier so she receives 11:45 of darkness. I would like to imitate the nature when longer nights come with time till the 4th week (when she will receive 13 hours darkness a day 15 minutes minus 4 times = 1hour) so every week 15 min longer darkness for 4 weeks and then back to 12/12 to have bigger buds from the 4th week....

Plants in 4 and a half weeks of flower

Both NL now have a light Kalium/Potassium deficiency so I removed some solution, added water and Yara Kristalon Orange PH 5.8 EC 1550. Removed the partial Orion harvest from the drying tent and put it in a Grove Bag (check the updated harvest of Ori) Pictures were taken right before harvest on 08.12.23

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Auto moon rock didn't get really tall on my perlite experiment, but she has some nice thick colas on her. A good strong woody, earthy, pine aroma. She is covered in trichromes and looks very potent. She struggled with getting started. Then I gave her too much nitrogen early on. So this may of stunted her overall height as well. She came out good though it all. I willhave a few ounces once done, and that's what counts. Thank you Divine Seeds, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g