Soaked in water for 18 hours then direct in coco/vermiculite/soil

Flush week with pure tap water

This week i flushing a plant 7-10days and use ice burn. And close a light before hardvest 2days

I deliberately sent my 2 ladies into flower 2 months earlier. roughly the 12/12h rule. Sometimes it was 10 hours in the sun, but sometimes 12 hours. In my region it will soon be rainy and cold. I'm toying with the idea of harvesting them before I catch mold or something else. The trichomes are all milky. About 15-20% amber colored.

05/20/2021 Wreak is putting on a glitter show the video does it no justice, sparkling is all I can say. She battled through PM break out and is doing well. Her smell is strong, i will be more descriptive later.....

She is a large plant. There is still a couple of weeks left in his flowering. Summer ends in this part of the world and temperatures are low. Although the.orange is not cold, the minl is 17 C. I am happy with this strain of ripper seeds

I was told these seeds are feminized. Also the strain is unknown.

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. 84/14 Fun with Filters VPD was controlled at reduced temps and RH today - RH now set to 55% max and Temps are 75F at max Over night allowed down to 67F when lights go out. Lights were good and same as yesterday with some light LST PPFD at 750 down to 550. I used 20 minutes of UV and 1 hr of IR with 15 before and after main lights on/off. She's now about 25" tall and 35" wide. Also took some black back and shadow pics for fun (no filters or sharpen only) Day 85/15 Feed Day I gave 2 gallons of de-chlorinated tap combined with 25:75 Veg/Bloom mix total 600ppm and a ph of 6.4. Foliar sprayed some on the outer leaves and left the tent door open to help dry them. (took like 15 minutes with the fans.) top soil ph checked at 6.22ph and run off was at 5.74 with 1580ppm Lights at a range of 750 to 500 Ran 25 minutes of UV and the standard 1hr IR with 15/15 before and after lights on/off and 30/30 at that time. VPD was easy to manage with the doors open and then the fan seemed to have to work more today but just more often and not high fan. Day 86/16 Humidity was high at 60%RH for most of the day, the ILV was kicking on throughout the day and I have two humidifiers going on high. Temps on the other hand was controlled at about 74F. Tips carried a little burn on them today, some all over which makes me think nute burn because ppfd was 550 to 750 as it has been for a few days now and there are tips on leaves with little direct light showing burn as well. Will continue to monitor as well. IR and UV are set on timers and I screwed up with mine today. I was supposed to change the setting and forgot (time change screwed me up and I thought I did it when I changed timers that needed correction) until it was too late and ended up giving her 30 minutes of IR and 1 hour of UV... will have to check/monitor for effects tomorrow. The good news is that she's had a little over two weeks with UV so maybe not so bad. (fingers crossed it doesnt stress her too much) Day 87/17 Again, humidity was high at 60%RH for most of the day, the ILV was kicking on throughout the day and I have two de-humidifiers going on high. Temps on the other hand was controlled at about 74F. If I open the tent for a while I can get the humidity down by about another 5% so tomorrow I plan to leave it open after I feed again. Took some light burn from yesterday's extended UV exposure, but read that it's not bad to take on some stress from UV in flower, especially if you still have time to recover. The pros suggest that you can stress her to grow defensive systems that may create thicker/stickier leaves and flowers with more terpene production. The cons however suggest that it could stress too much and stunt the growth or in extreme/sudden cases, cause her to herm. (thus why they say in mid flower is best if you plan to stress with UV) So it is what it is. I will monitor the leaves that took damage and likely remove them this week when I defoliate schwazz style. I still resumed the schedule of increasing UV as planned but ahead a few days now so 45minutes of UV and 1 hr IR with 15/15 before and after main lights on/off. Day 88/18 Lots happening today. Firstly, I found a split today... on the main stem trunk, so I used superglue to seal the cracks and held together while it set. Then I wrapped it with heavy duty gorilla tape, two 1ft pieces as both a clamp and a support on the other side. I then tied each cola to the inner ring. So then I decided that since I am here having to work on this I may as well go ahead and do the defoliation I was planning for tomorrow. Schwazze style defoliation (at least my interpretation of the method without having to buy the book, super defoliate week 1 and 3 of flower - so almost) Then after that I also preformed heavy strength training - I broke each cola right under the bud sites that I left and bent her outward. I then upped the lights ever so slightly and have a max of 850 ppfd and low of 650 ppfd now. She had 45 minutes of UV and 1 hr of IR same routine, IR on/off at main light schedule with 15 before and after main lights. VPD is better now that I placed another open air vent at the bottom, this one is 6 inch. I also placed the fans a little better to blow directly on the leaves left behind. Low speed for now, but as the leaves come back I plan to increase to get dancing leaves in the middle too. Temps were 74F and RH 55% with the ILV set to auto. I plan to feed 2 gallons of 650ppm 25:75 Veg/Bloom mix. Since my last ph was really low I am going to increase the feed to 7.0ph - not sure what if anything I can do about ppm. Day 89/19 VPD was normal with the exception of holding the tent open as I said I was going to today. Temps at 74F and RH mostly 55% with the ILV set to auto. PPFD also checking in with the same settings/results today, 880 to about 650 ppfd. UV was set for 45 minutes midday, and IR with the same 1 hr with 15 minutes before and after main light on/off. Water feed today with about 2.25 gallons of 7.0 ph de-chlorinated tap diluted with 25:75 ratio of veg/bloom mix (690 ppm total) watered until drip started and I got about .25 gallon runoff. Runoff measured 5.75 ph and 1630 ppm (top soil tested 4x with avg of 6.35) Next feed will be a plain water salt flush. Plant looked so nice a day today that I decided to take some more black back pics. Day 90/20 VPD and PPDF were fine today with normal settings of 74F/55%RH/Auto ILV - PPFD ranged from 550 to 750 because of HST on the limbs. This will be the last stress I give her and hope it wasnt too much. Hoping this all results in a big yield and not a herm.

Pas vraiment le temps de mettre à jour mon growdiaries..mais tout se passe bien les filles deviennent des monstres! Je laisse une courte vidéo de visite de ma jungle! Bonne saison les growers

Muy buenas mi gentee. Otra semanita más por aquí, ya en la semana 5 de crecimiento. Y se puede observar como va bastante bien, con buena estructura, buen color y buena ramificación. Se le están dando riegos semanales con bioestimulantes de The hype company y aparte dos riegos de agua más semanales. La temperatura la estamos empezando a subir, para esta semana cambiala a maceta final y pasarla a floración. Así que veremos cómo sigue la próxima.

Would see this weed only in top coffeeshops now I have my own top shelf buds incredible plant from seed to smoke smell fenomanal smokes amazing

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 56 and she's just killing💀it👌 The Smell has kicked in and is wonderful 😀 👉We are in full out flowering 💐 and its looking great 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the first few feedings 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm helping out with some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

26/09/22 - W09 - D57-63 - I Increased EC to 1,3 and pushed down pH to 6 (advanced nutrients are not so ph perfect..). I'm still making LST, because some buds have flower too far and I'm trying to keep the buds as lower as possible.

“Struggling” with cold temperatures and low humidity. Plants aren’t growing as fast as I would like but they look healthy nevertheless. Let a family member water over the holiday and they overwatered. Plants look a little droopy nothing to worry about. Snapped the top of one of my zkitts while tying down. Testing out monkey nutrients plants seem to like it.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de vida de estas Gorilla melon feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío , las 3 semillas que germinaron con éxito se colocaron en macetas de 0.6 litros y asomaron 3 , 100% ratio germinado. Voy a necesitar 2 ejemplares de esta variedad, eliminaré la más pocha antes de trasplantar. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 18h de luz, el foco está al 75% de potencia. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Queste piante sono state fatte al massimo dello stress, al minimo dei consumi. Con 300 watt totali, niente riscaldamento, solo ricircolo d aria e luce, anche nell'acqua pochi nutrienti, si vede il risultato finale abbastanza scarso, non ho avuto tempo d stargli dietro, ma con tutto ciò qualcosa ho raccolto.

the first week is behind us. the weather is still very changeable. a lot of rain and not yet the desired daytime temperatures. the little one is growing, but is taking her time.