Day 87 - Feeding day today. Removed Acti_Vera completely. She´s really starting to look mature. Tomorrow ill check trichomes. Also slightly defoliated dying leafs and to get more light at lower buds. They´re also developing well. Day 90 - Still see some clear trichomes. Will keep the plan i had in mind, ill feed her one more time and start flushing at the end of this week. This beast is really getting beautifull, love this fruity hashy blueberry aroma. Fingers really get sticky. Day 91 - Last feeding today. Day 93 - She´s really getting mature, so today i will start flushing. At the end of next week i´ll harvest. Flushed 3L of pH´d water (around 6)

Plant was very hardy and stiff buds thick and dense. I'll update in a few days upon dry. We Did It... Let's groW some mo...

2/10: I watered today with about 3/4 gallon each, plus cal-mag, signal, bembe, armor si, a little open sesame, and their final dose of endoboost. The short one never did stop making the hook leaves on all her new growth, but she seems happy..budding faster than anybody else.. 2/11: Wife home sick today....postponing construction project to raise the lights. 2/12: Today, I tackled the project to raise my ceiling another foot. In addition to that project, I installed and hooked up my new AC Infinity 6" intake fan. It's pulling in fresh air from the soffit vent on the eave of the attic, and currently feeding the garden with 46f fresh air. I'm able to easily maintain daytime temps in the lower 70f's now. I am able to drive the nighttime temps as low as I want. The only issue is that the outdoor RH varies quite a bit, so I ordered a 30-pint dehumidifier to put in the top of the closet. I sprayed everybody with boomboom spray to try and mitigate the light burn damage that is likely to ensue. 2/13: The taller one is still stretching a little bit, but the 2-footer is just budding up. 2/14: I fed them today with about 3/4 gallon each including grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom, cal-mag, signal, bembe, humic acid, and I switched over from Open Sesame to Beastie Bloomz. Raised the lights another couple of inches. I did some training on them and defo'd a little bit. 2/15: Installed the new dehumidifier and rigged the continuous drain on it...works great. 2/16: I rotated the edge plants and removed some old leaves. I added another 22w 3000k 4' bar light under the canopy. 2/17: I rearranged the garden and defoliated a little bit. That's it for week 8-

.. Flower Day 2-3 ..

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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Nothing too special at this point, just watering and the occasional big bloom. I think Im about ready to harvest and move to the next grow. The leaves are a bit thin.

Day 14, some supercropping Day 15 .. it’s under control 😂🤣 Day 19 lights almost maxed to tent height unless I zip tie led to the top ceiling frame, last bit of monster cropping. Lost 2 top nugs to physical led burn but it’s ok. Everything is fine. Still going very hard on soluble N, and Pk along with b+, fishsh!t, microbial mass, humic acid. Carbs every day with organic booster

The nice weather has finally returned, and it should stick around for the next few weeks. It's just in time for the last couple weeks of the ladies. ☀️☀️☀️

Plant sprouted after 2 days. Planted may 1st. Will be grown inside and outside when weather permits. Under 400w MAXSISUN PB4000 light while inside.

This week the plant grew a lot even when I did her another defoliation (I’m really crazy I know) she’s auto but she didn’t show any stress with that. Is just 4 weeks left to harvest. I broke the air stone when I was doing the solution change, so I have to buy a new one, the good thing is that the new one works much better. Let’s see how it goes this week, I did another and hopefully the last defo today (last pic) and we’ll se e the next one how she responded.

Ein wunderbarer aber auch anstrengender Grow geht zu Ende. Erstes Mainlining, erste Photoperiodische im Zelt… Qualität, Resistenz, Geschmack 🤩super Habe bisher nur einen geraucht, THC hat mich gut weggehauen, hätte ich selbst nicht gedacht

Was away 18/6 allday 19/6 *Water day / Looking thirsty -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60% RH (2+-) -950ml to Biobizz Topmax, Bio heaven, and Bloom (1ml/L) biobizz grow 1ml/L 20/6 -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 21/6 - I did some defoliation/trimming and removed a couple of branches that i didnt believe in. -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 22/6 Some pistils are starting to show, they look happy, but soon thirsty. -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 23/6 *Water day + i denoted lower shoots and romoved a couple branches and small leafs -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -58% RH (2+-) -1050ml to Biobizz Topmax, Bio heaven (1ml/L) Bloom (2ml/L) 24/6 Removed a couple of top fan leaves that were shading some tops. It looks good an healthy -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -55%RH (2+-) 25/6 -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -53%RH (2+-)

Quebec Blast is doing good. I been doing some root pruning to remove the long tails. Lots of new root growth. Looks like it will be 2 weeks till I flip light schedule. I will see when time comes. I increased nutrition a little. I am not really trying to do much trying on top this week. I should of started pruning the roots in the beginning. Gonna make the best of it. I am growing her in a New Level Hydro bucket, under a Spider Farmer SE5000 light at 60 percent right now. Thank you New Level Hydro, Spider Farmer, and Quebec Seeds. 🌱🤜🤛🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g SE5000 https://amzn.to/3qFpAML Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au Coupon Code: saveurcash Www.newlevelhydro.com Www.hygrozyme.com

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| 📅 Week 10 | Days 64 - 70 | 💡 750w 📏25' | | ☔ 38%-50% | | 🌡️️🌞 72 - 74 | | 🌡️️🌑 68 - 71 | 1/11 The reservoirs were swapped out with fresh nutrients and topped off at 5.8PH. I will give them another day or two before flushing I think. The smell is currently fantastic 1/12 There really isn't much to do with these girls anymore other than PH every day and make sure their water levels are consistent to maintain their nutrient levels. Tomorrow I will begin the Flushing 1/13 I decided on one more day of nutrients. I Topped off the Reservoirs and adjusted their PH's to 5.8 as usual. I cleaned out the tent today as well. I can't wait to harvest these buds they are looking great. 1/14 Today is Flushing Day! I will flush them for about 6 days which is very fairly long for a typical DWC grow. I will only PH the water from here on out. 1/15-19 I Flushed these plants while maintaining a stable PH and humidity the best I could. The water level is not important during this because without nutrients you don't need to worry about ratios as long as you just keep the PH stable you will be fine. With a longer flush like this one, you should expect to see death in leaves its ok. I only did this for life reasons, I suggest a 3-5 day flush in DWC. These plant's Trichomes matured fast and harvest time approached quickly. The smell in the tent is very potent and gloves are going to be an absolute must on this chop! I will be hang drying the plants inside the dark grow tent with ventilation to maintain humidity levels. I don't personally have a preference between a slow or fast drying process. This time I will be looking at 3-5 days of hang drying before chopping them into jars for a few weeks of cure using Boveda packs. I'm very pleased with the bud color and smell even though the overall weight will be less than desired I will be growing this strain again immediately. There isn't too much more to add to this week other than the grow is complete and the Dry/Cure process is all that is left. Be sure to look out for the harvest update with the final weight and smoke test! _______________________________________________________________________ Feel free to leave comments/questions below or give me any feedback to improve my diaries. If you like this Diary follow along and check out my others as well 😎

Week 5 (28-2 to 5-3) 28-2 Temperature: 24.3 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 56% (highest) 46% (lowest) Watering: None. Today i set the exhaust to setting 3. 29-2 Temperature: 23.9 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 48% (lowest) Watering: None. 1-3 Temperature: 24.5 degrees (lights on) 19.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 51% (lowest) Watering: None. No pictures. Today i set the light to 75% strenght. 2-3 Temperature: 25.4 degrees (lights on) 20.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 59% (highest) 45% (lowest) Watering: None. Today i removed some fanleaves. 3-3 Temperature: 25.3 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 47% (lowest) Watering: None. 4-3 Temperature: 23.6 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 46% (lowest) Watering: Both 1500 ml. No pictures. 5-3 Temperature: 25.5 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: None.