Germination date 🌱 28/11/2021 Day 91 09/03/2022 Strain 🍁 Solfire Gardens Bahama Bussdown (Runtz x Bahama Mama) THC% • Unknown 💡 Mars Hydro FC-E6500 • Power draw 650W + 5% • Max coverage 5 x 5 • LED 3978 pcs high quality chips • Max Yield 2.5g / watt • Noise level 0 DB • Removable Driver & Light bars • Daisy chain • Fast cool system https://marshydroled.co.uk/ 🇬🇧 PROMO CODE • (organicnature420) DISCOUNT https://www.mars-hydro.com/ 🇺🇲 PROMO CODE • (ORG420) DISCOUNT 👍🏻 ⛺ Mars Hydro 150 x 150 x 200cm 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier ❄️ 3.1kw air con system 💉 Nutrients Living soil (dry amendments) Grow Bloom Bloom2 MycoBoost Barley 🌱 Growing Media • Soil 💡 80% Notes 📝 It's not been a good week. Had some family time last week and unfortunately caught covid with all the symptoms. I've been bed bound since Monday and today I'm starting to feel slighty better. Not asking for sympathy 🤣 but this explains why some of my girls have switched on me... Looks like all 3 Frosted Biscotti have gone into reveg. Obviously have a light leak but think I've sorted it now. The mystery is just well under feed as I've run out of Bloom and big Buds and its also gone into reveg. The other coco ones haven't gone into reveg and almost look done. Biscotti Mintz and Bahama Bussdown look 🔥 well impressed. The mutant Biscotti Mintz (soil) has come along nicely and looks amazing. I don't get why that hasn't revegged as its surrounded buy the others that have. The 2 at the back, (Bahama Bussdown) ones taken a slight knock and revegged and the other one has just got to heavy and collapsed. Again looks near enough done so now need to think of a plan of action for curing as tent will be occupied for at least another month. So I think that's it with the problems 🤣 .. Apologies again for not getting back to anyones dairys over the last 2weeks. I'm going to spend the weekend catching up with you all and sorting out the tent as long as I'm covid clear. My partner has been doing so much for my son and I I couldn't ask her to maintain the tent aswell. She did give them a water but no nutrients 🙈 half effort still wins my heart ❤️ Discount codes in bio for Mars hydro

Day 64 the queens got some fertilizer 💪😃👍

Well tge skittles popped first waiting on the kings kush tae pop tge revegged triple g is budding at the moment av tied her down stay tuned this should be a good run monster cropping and revegging here we Fukin go who else is dain this or is it just me surely not comments welcome and there mite be a secret diary so stay tuned @chedderbob112 @s2340420long pockets

the sweet skunks are doing well they’ve responded well to the toppings & the clones are rolling strong as well 💪🏼 hoping to get a lot more of these babies going happy growing friends 🤙🏼

Okay, now they are really growing fast. I need to flip to flower!

Auto cinderella jack - Amazing week of growth. There are new nodes exploding from everywhere and its not showing signs of slowing down. They are currently loving the organic nutes and have started showing signs of flowering. Auto critical cheese - this plant has shot up recently. It was planted a week later that the ACJ but is growing some seriously fat fan leaves. Should be a nice yeilder. Peanut butter cookies - this girl is looking pretty sorry for herself. I am intentionally trying to keep her as small as possible so that I can get the autos out before flipping into flower but she is gonna be a beast. Will transplant into a final pot in the next day or so.

So far so good i have to defoliate sligh

Day 22 - Didnt have a time to make a Day 20 due to my sickness but hey im back guys dont worry ! :) - So at the first point, changed the pH of the water with nutes to 6.3 for better CalMag absorbing - I know very well about light being too close problem, girls are bushy, not very stretchy. Will solve the problem in 5 days (will move them into bigger box) - Applied foliar spray with 1ml/l of CalMag and 1ml/l Rhizo - Deficiency is still spreading throughout the older leaves, i know im losing some leaf mass right now. Trying my best but i cant move the light (problem causer) further... - Going to transplant them to a 10l/2gal pots in 4 days after moving them to a bigger tent. - wishing them ladies all the luck i have to survive the next days without too much burn... Note: If you have some idea how could i dim the light a little, let me know ! :) Day 28 - So, moved them to a bigger box. I finally could. (120x120x200) - Calcium deficiency has spread almost to all plants in the small box but it looks like IT stopped after moving them And moving the Light further, finally... - Light Is now 50cm above the tops which IS appearing to be 17000 Lux (used Phone luxmeter so its probably not perfect) - every 2 days spraying them with 1ml/l calmag And 1ml/l rhizotonic before the nighttime - flushed every plant with 2l nute mix ph 6.0 EC 1.6 due to not buffered Coco coir (really pi**Ing me off). Hopes it made the nutes evenly spread - outflow came 5.8 pH and 1.4 EC - Fimmed at day 25, looks like they didnt noticed much but the lower branches started to grow heavily. (i know i shouldnt due to health of the plants but better than topping right) -wish them luck in next days, theyre not the biggest but they seem very strong (thanks to team Humboldt seeds :)) - if everything goes right from now on ill switch them to 12/12 at the end of week 6

This week the focus was mainly on LST. I continued guiding and adjusting the branches to keep everything level and well structured, helping the plant maintain a clean and symmetrical shape. Apart from that, everything remains the same with no major changes. The plant is slowly recovering from the calcium deficiency, and the new growth is already looking healthier, so I’m just letting her grow and settle in 🌿💪

Grüßt euch Freunde! Wir sind nun am Ende der 4. Woche. Einige Blätter verfärben sich Lila. Habe in dieser Woche nicht viel getan, außer Wasser und Dünger zu geben. Die PPOG entwickelt in der 4 Woche wirklich heftig Resin. Sie sieht wirklich frosty aus, gefällt mir !☺️ Mir ist nun aufgefallen, dass die unteren Blätter alle die Spitzen nach unten neigen. Man nennt das auch ‚Adlerkrallen‘ und ist auf einen Stickstoff Überschuss zurückzuführen. Habe durch die Verfärbung der Blätter auf einen Mangel geschlossen, war vielleicht nicht die beste Idee mehr Bio Grow zuzuführen😂 Werde im laufe der 5 Woche keinen Bio Grow mehr verwenden und beobachten wie sich das entwickelt. Euch allen eine gute Woche !💚

Done abit of lst this week on a few of the big ones First timer not really got a clue what to do so trying trial and error One half the back of tent got a trellise over them the other half have had the fam leaves tucked under and the ones you see under the smaller light have been tied down about 90 degree angle Also a few showing signs of maybe nutrient deficiency of some sort could anybody give a hand as to what this is also something I’ve noticed over the last week a lot of the leaves look almost chewed off complete fan leaves gone only the stem left this is a indoor grow first time I can’t seem to see anything in the tent or any signs of snails or slugs and I’ve put it down to water landing on the leafs and burning them away completely (pot head conspiracy ) any help would be much appreciated please

Start to add bigbud today with tapwater

OG 4Q24 Flower Week 9 Orangegasm (Fem) [ IRIE Genetics ] 12/12 @ Bolt (Day 21) Germination: 20 November 2024 #3A Earliest Harvest Date: 9 February 2025 #3B Latest Harvest Date: 19 February 2025 _________________________________________ Start of Week: [Wed Feb 5, 2024 CR2 4Q24 57:F:8:1] End of Week: [Tue Feb 11, 2024 CR2 4Q24 63:F:8:7] OrangeGasm Fertigation: - MAX: EC: [ 2.4, mS] #Ramping Down - LightIntensity MAX: [ 850, µMol/m2/s] ______________________________________ OBJECTIVES - Ramp EC from 2.4 - 1.0 - Start rolling off Primer A&B/Silica Skin to Resin Bloom . . . __ Wed Feb 5, 2025 OG 4Q24 57:F:8:1 EC: 2.3 Notes: #5 looks like a 60 day plant, if so - consider Saturday Harvest … Runoff - [x] Amount: [ 0.125 , gal] - [x] EC: [ 4.4 , mS/cm] - [x] EC∆: [ 2.5 , mS/cm] # Fried Yet? ;-} Harvest Dehu - [x] Amount: [ 1.5 , g] __ Thu Feb 6, 2025 OG 4Q24 58:F:8:2 EC: 2.3 Refresh Reservoir - [x] Amount: [ 2 , g] - [x] EC: [ 2.3, mS/cm] - [x] Primer A&B: [ 31, ml] - [x] Silica Skin: [ 15 , ml] __ Fri Feb 7, 2025 OG 4Q24 59:F:8:3 EC: 2.3 __ Sat Feb 8, 2025 OG 4Q24 60:F:8:4 - [x] Disassemble, Clean Reservoir and Pumps, Reassemble Refresh Reservoir - [ ] Silica Skin: [ 15 , ml] - Dropping Silica Skin due to (sparse to medium) granular precipitate - [x] Amount: [ 6 , g] - [x] EC: [ 2.1, mS/cm] - [x] Primer A&B: [ 100, ml] EC: 2.1 @1900 - Clear Manifold Filter. (Mainline should be cleared on 1845 feed __ Sun Feb 9, 2025 OG 4Q24 61:F:8:5 - [x] Dilute to EC 2.0 - Flooded Tent, 2 Gallons PLUS of Runoff. Happy Plants. - Shout Out Shop-vac. ;-} EC: 2.0 __ Mon Feb 10, 2025 OG 4Q24 62:F:8:6 EC: 1.8 HAND APPLICATION Prepped One Gallon of 12-8-7-5 @ 1.8 mS/cm w/ PhotoSynthesis Plus, SLF-100 Reclaimed Dehu Water, ~2 Gallons Refreshed Reservoir, 2 Gallons Rooted Leaf Hydro no Silica Skin, EC: 1.8 mS/cm Reduced watering to 5 min, then 1 - 1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 (It’s not like they’ve been under-fertigated) __ Tue Feb 11, 2025 OG 4Q24 63:F:8:7 EC: 1.7 - [x] EC: [ 1.7, mS/cm2] - [x] Refresh Reservoir - [x] amount: [ 2.5, gal] Runoff - [x] Amount: [ 0.5, gal] - [x] EC: [ 3.6, mS/cm2] - [x] EC∆: [ 0.9, mS/cm2] # Better than 2.5! PLANT POSITIONS 3 5 1 7 4 2 6 8

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Last week we have had a little more growth as they have filling out. I’ve been through and gave them their week 3 defoliation and lollipopping (Blue Gelato 41 & Gorilla Zkittlez on day 21 of Flower, Peyote Cookies & Cinderella 99 on day 22 of Flower). Now it’s about adding weight and packing on the pounds #RecycledSystem #PeyoteCookies #Cinderella99 #BlueGelato41 #GorillaZkittlez #BarneysFarm #HerbiesSeeds #FreeSeeds #GrowTent #MeizhiLED #Meizhi300 #CustomLED #UkGrown #TheUKGrowsToo #CannabisCommunity 🇬🇧

9.7 D85 Harvest day✂️ Last flush 10L Water PH 6.5 EC 0.3 Return PH 5.9 EC 3.4 Very high EC of soil. Above 15% amber. Triochoms at top cola start degradation. Defoliation&wet trim. 23inch tall. No training. 121g wet (but now freaking stems and leafs like people do 😂) 32.2g (73% return)

Start of week 3 - No nutrients. Might top this week. Day 18- Topped. Think I’ll wait until the new week till I post again.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la sexta semana de crecimiento de estas Papayton de FastBuds. La temperatura que estuvo entre los 24-26 grados y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos. Todavía estamos en el ciclo 16 horas luz, 8 oscuridad, estiraron bien y ensancharon bastante también, el color es verde sano. Se nota que los nutrientes de la marca Agrobeta hacen sus funciones. También realicé una poda de bajos que yo si las veo necesarias para explotar después la flor. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida ,descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Alle Pflanzen wachsen sehr gesund. Das Training haben alle gut vertragen. In dieser Woche gab es keine Probleme

Both Barbarian (=AK-47 x Barbara Bud) plants are filling up more and the first pistils start to get brown, which shows the plants start to ripen and go towards harvest time. The smell they exude is STRONG now and VERY PLEASANT. The aroma is sweet, peachy with sandalwood undertones and is MOUTH-WATERING. The plants are TRICHOME MONSTERS and are covered in crystals, any little touch and your fingers stay sticky for hours.