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All received their final feeding early this week and they are on ph water here on out. Had to add the humidifier in this week for the first time with these girls as the humidity dropped to 47%. They should be on cruise control from here with just water. They have a really nice fade happening to their leaves and developing nice purple hues. Hopefully they will be ready to harvest in a week or so time. Daiquiri Lime is the frostiness by far!!!
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_____ Week 11 | Day 78 - 84 | 4th week of Flower | Day 21-28 ______ Day 78 & 79 🌞 - What should I write... Not much has happened, I leave the plants alone. - I put my dehumidifier in the tent this week, it starts as soon as the LF rises above 60%. At the moment it is winter with me and the humidity is very low anyway, saves energy 👌 Day 80 🌞💧 - each plant 3 liter Day 83 🌞💧 - at the end of week 4 I provided them with nutrients again. They have become thirstier and now drink 3 liters every 3 days ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Light - 12/12 h - 560 Watt - 2x 200 Watt Toplight - 4 x 40 Watt Lightbars PPFD - 900 - 1000 µmol Temp. avg. - 24,4° Hum. avg. - 58 % RLH
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@CAMOGROWN
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I've pretty much gone over everything in the video. Super not happy I've had to turn this auto grow into a photoperiod grow. I'm not really set up for light leaks hence why I grow auto's. On the only plus side, I think two are MABEY starting to flower. They would be the smart pot pair. The big sativa is still stretching even though it did that during week 3-4! All I can say is thanks for suggesting the 12/12 switch @biggreens420, if this grow turns out fine then we'll be smoking buddy lol I was gunna kill three off and start a fresh grow with BETTER GENETICS. But I'm willing to see how messed up they can get so I can give a PROPER review. Thanks for all your time !
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So far it seems to be fine even if the high humidity worries me even if the temperatures are still high then they have stopped growing and will finally focus on the flowers and slowly we recover these small deficiencies
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@Semi-Auto
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I topped the two healthiest the Bruce banner and the bigger blackberry auto I also tied down two of them I will let the smaller blackberry run naturally I don’t know if I will do lst though I will see with a little more observation I am still trying to get the watering schedule down pat so I will let the soil dry out a little at least to half the weight it is now oh yeah Ac Infinity holla at me let work!!!!!
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@CalGonJim
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1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂
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Put her into a 10litre pot at end of last week. The suns not been out much but she's still doing alright.
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I'm super thrilled for this one. I've been wanting to get my hands on it for about a year now. It's a great night time, migraine removing, sleep inducing strain for me. I hope the phenotype I have works just as well. I topped and defoliated every plant. I'm trying to form them into canna-bushes. Hopefully I'm doing the correct training procedures to make them all grow that way both indoors and out.
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Fast Buds Run Light at 75% and will stay like this for the coming week. Scrog net will also be installed this week. 09/04/24 - 2L RO Water with Cal Mag Xtra per plant. 11/04/24 - 3L RO Water only per plant. 14/04/24 - 3L RO Water with Nutes per plant. Notes : 08/04/24 - Scrog net was installed, will continue to adjust branches this coming week. 11/04/24 - Was seeing leaves a little bit on the dark side so fed only plain water 6.5ph, next feeding will be with nutes again. Re-arranged scrog net a bit more to open up the canopy a little bit more. Overall plants looking happy and all of them have now gone into the pre-flowering stage. 14/04/24 - Plants are doing really well in the pre-flowering stage and are really streching now. One last strech befor they go into full flower.
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@Medgrow93
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Had mold at the very end so ended chopping then down early. Delicious smell. Smells like vomit or piss and gets stronger as they continue to cure.
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2/9 - 4 gal RO 2/10 - 5 gal RO 2/11 - Feeding nutrients plus cal/mag, 5 gal 2/12 - Feeding nutrients, 5 gal 2/13 - FINALLY FIGURED OUT MY ISSUE! The ph within the soil was too low. RO only at 6.5ph 2/14 - RO only 6.8ph 2/15 - Feeding nutrients, 4 gal at 6.7ph Monday 2/15 was one of the coldest days we've had, our winter storm took our power that evening. I was ok with going without lights, the plants would have made it through a day or two. However I was not prepared for below freezing temperatures. Overnight my plants froze to death. I went without power for another 36 hours at below freezing temperatures. There was no way I could save them now.
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Getting going indoors till weather gets better and no more frosts
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Los cogollos progresan adecuadamente☝️🙌 La cantidad de tricomas me esta sorprendiendo y los colores que estan cogiendo las plantas son espectaculares. Tonos morados y rosas bañan mi indoor💜 Y el olor caracteristico a gorila glue es mas que apreciable
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08/04: deuxième semaine de flo. On y est! Je vais augmenter l'engraissâge graduellement. J'apprends encore beaucoup je n'en suis que à mon quatrième journal et mon expérience s'arrête là et continue à évoluer à la même vitesse que les plantes poussent 🌱🌱🌱🐞🐞🐞#35ok 08/06: 4L*engraisser -> dernier apport en N. Prochain arrosage "Biobizz Bloom+Top-Max" sera remplacé par "Canna pk 13-14+Canna boost accelarator". 08/08: elle est assoiffée en ce moment - arrosage 4L*only bud candi #39 08/10: dernier jours de la deuxième semaine de pré-flo. Maintenant les têtes vont se former :) #41
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@Kirsten
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23.08.24: I've done considerable defoliation. Also, FBP1 and FBP3 have grown all over the place. The stems are also relatively weaker as they've grown so much. (Photos above). Being as the plants were looking a bit delicate, I added some string and tied the side branches lightly to keep them a bit more compact. Additionally, FBP2 has a considerable amount of buds on the main cola. So I've added a plant stake, and I just tied string around the stake and the main stalk. The humidity has been able to stay under 53%. That's with 3 dehumidifiers. So I'm pretty sure that's about as good as it will probably be. I've had to lower the watering frequency on FBP3, as I overwatered only this plant. and also added too much Nitrogen in. As a result all the leaves are looking droopy. I'm really not sure how this will pan out, as they all still look like they're weeks away from harvest. Anyway, I'll update throughout the week. 25.8.24: I was tending to the garden a majority of the day, and realised that a branch had broken on FBP2. I acted quickly to insert plant stakes, to provide the heavily laden branches additional support. See photos above. The branch was bent or snapped, but still in one piece. I used duct tape to carefully put it back together. Before making a stake for it. Silica, apparently wasn't quite enough to get the FBP2 through the whole way. The flowers are very heavy and dense. I have also given the plants water yesterday with concentrations of the following nutrients, per plant. ● 9ltr of dechlorinated tap water with 6ml of cal-mag, 3ml of Ecothrive Flourish, 6ml of Xpert Nutrients Bloom Booster. I have also added cinnamon top dress after watering, as I have noticed some fungus gnats. I checked the trichomes through one of my loupes yesterday too, and nearly all are still glass like in appearance, with some cloudy here and there. I'm definitely going to have some time left on these girls. I did check the PH if my soil on all plants as I was concerned about nutrient lock out on FBP3. All pots tested out at 7.0 Ph exactly, before and after watering. Thanks for reading my diary 😊