she is in her last stage ... after a lot of patience ... just one more week for her ... she does not look perfect like others ... she fought against all the plagues and she resisted very well .. .. continues with its smell of pine. mint ... and its typical smell indica ... it has 154 days from its germination .... on April 29 will have 100 days of flowering and will be the day of your court ...

I have harvested my ladies. The buds are nice and thick. I'll definitly do an update on the drying and curing. I have already done some rough wet trimming. I am planning to do some more once it has dried They are now drying in my garage with a dehumidifier.

Ok so had a lot to do this week harvested the large critcial mass to which I got 6 n half 0z from one plant so happy with that i also had a few issues with enviroment mainting right temp and humidty as been a lil issue but think all is well now so there all now on the 7 week of flower think I may push these as far as I can to maximise yield potential overall a real good plant to grow had very few issues from start to finish a top strain a deffo keeper for the garden of mothers in my opinion

D72/F35 - 12.10

Hello! By the end of the third week everything is fine. My room has high humidity, but the ventilation seems to cope. But i can water less often 😏 Thank you for stopping by, and be healthy! 🙏 To be continued... 😶

The plants have gotten pretty dense they also have sweet gassy dmell

🍦**Grow Report by Zuppler - Week 3 Flowering Phase** 🍦 Yo yo, what’s poppin’? It’s Zuppler back with that grow update straight from the heart of the city, ya feel me? We’re in Week 3 of the flowering phase, and let me tell you, the ladies are lookin’ fresh as hell right now. Everything's running smooth, no stress. The buds are starting to show up like diamonds in the rough, you know what I’m sayin’? The girls are growing like real queens, standing strong and firm, like they know they’re about to take over the spotlight soon. Nodes are tight, no stretchin’, everything stayin' solid like a real OG. Lights are on that 12/12 cycle, and the nutes are mixin’ in just right – no overfeedin’, no deficiencies, just smooth sailin’, bruh. Water game is on point too – pH is dialed in, no dry-out drama. Roots are doing their thing, and the ladies are sucking up that H2O like they’re thirsty in the desert. We’re usin‘ that clean and pure Osmosewasser. So far, everything’s rollin’ as planned. I’m hyped to see how these next few weeks turn out – buds gettin’ fatter, stickier, and that smell’s gonna get even crazier. Stay tuned, yo – Zuppler out. Peace!

11/15 Week 2 and very happy For now feedings remain : In two cups PH 5.9 - .6ml each of CocoTek A&B and Fish Sh!t (for the metabolics) to generous runoff. No reason to change until transplant when I add the root juice Feeding daily may increase to twice daily when the EC meter gets in Monday as I have found some insight on coco from this: https://www.amazon.com/Coco-Cannabis-Growers-Dr-M-J-ebook/dp/B07G9LR4W2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=coco+for+Cannabis%3A+A+Grower%E2%80%99s+Guide&qid=1573956241&s=digital-text&sr=1-1 Free Kindle book if you have Kindle Unlimited. 11/16 New Pic and Vid 11/18 Moved to veg tent and transplanted into 1 gal intermediate fabric pots. Looking good Almost forgot - Fed cocotek and kangaroots when transplanted at 5ml/gal and 10ml/gal respectively. Going to start increasing the concentration of the cocotek upwards and keeping an eye out for def 11/19 Feedings will be twice a day in these pots 5ml Cocotek A&B (well 10 total) 4ml Fish Sh!t (seem to like the stuff) / gal at 6.0 ish not going to get anal about it just careful Possibly add 3ml of CalMag should I see a wisp of reason to do so. Like what I am seeing so far Getting more Fastberry those were my last two seeds. Meter got in - TDS of the above feed is 575 with tap water being 210 giving a nuet level of 365 well within seedling and early veg limits, so plenty of room down the road. Will be working it up as I feel right but I am getting a water filter, not RO perhaps but it needs to come down. Heh wont be needing Si that's for sure

Sorry for the slow upload this week, it has been a heavy rainny week and humidity was off the charts. Had to get a big dehumid to balance it all out. Send round of defoliation, didn't take too much off but this will help with the humidity balance. Did a little Srog netting just for the top buds not to hit the lights too much and burn.

First i want to say, the terpines is hands down the best i have ever smelled of this pheno, i wont ever change my mind this is straight legendary smell. Im bad at explaining terpenes but ill try: Its very lemony but not in a candy sweet way its like a cheese heavy deep intense smell. If u put your nose close to the budsites its so heavy like u are eating lemon icecream with hot cheese boiling it all its so insane i will never smoke anything else, this will forever be my personal smoke i can tell u right now

Anfang w2 in flow. Hatte die ersten tage leider ein bisschen hitze probleme. Gepaart mit zuwenig luftfeuchte. Aaaber gefahr erkannt-gefahr gebannt.😁😇 Jetzt pfeffern sie richtig an👌😋 freu freu Haben ähnlichen strech wie die GMOz was ich hier gepostet habe. Aber nicht gar so massiv. Bin bis jetzt echt begeistert von den mädels Die besten und saubersten stecklinge gibts wie immer bei ROOTS-FARMS👌🌱💚 der beste in österreich und maybe europe😉🤫

Hallo zusammen 🤙. So das war es erst mal melde mich in 10 Tagen mit Gewicht

We didn't have much hope for this one, hence the light documentation... her PH was a rollercoaster for a while but still managed to yield around an oz..not too shabby for a plant we nearly tossed... if we grow this strain again it will most certainly be grown outside in the garden.. I believe this could of been a very large auto given optimal conditions...happy growing everyone!

A meio da 6° semana, fiz o primeiro lolipop antes da floração, dar uns dias pra curar bem e trocar o ciclo de luz 12/12h, vamos ver como estas meninas se comportam na floração!

[ Information ] For all grow information, including strain and room details, please see the first week of veg. [ Updates ] (Flower) Day 1 - Light intensity increased to 65%. C02 increased to 1300ppm average. Day temp/humidity 85/70 (1-1.2VPD), night temp/humidity 75/65 (.8-1VPD). Fed a diluted compost tea mixture before lights on. Base water was R/O and tap water mixed lightly with silica and Tribus microbes. Tea was a mixture of Fish Hydrolysate, Bat Guano, Molasses, Fulvic/Humic, Kelp, and Earthworm Castings. 8 gallons of tea were added to 72 gallons of water mixture for an 80gal batch total. The batch was mixed for a half hour before feeding to the room. I did not PH or PPM test the mixture, organic material is hard to get an accurate PPM reading so the numbers are useless to me. I will be working to bring the lights to 100% power over this first week of flower. Day 4 - Light intensity increased daily, currently at 90%. Will raise to full power tomorrow. C02 increased to 1800ppm average. Temp and humidity for day and night are still the same. Lights were raised slightly to maintain 12 inches from canopy height, and a few growth nodes that were above the canopy got topped. Watered today with an 80gal (1.25gal p/pot) mixture, 10% tap 90% r/o water. 6.8 PH, 2.2ec. Foliar sprayed yesterday before lights off with a neem mixture for weekly IPM. Canopies are stretching relatively evenly, though I will be adding in support nets within a few days to help maintain the even spread. I've run this strain before so I'm fairly confident that I know what to expect during these few stretch weeks. Day 7 - Lights have been at 100% since day 5. C02 still 1800-2000ppm on average. Plants are stretching quickly into the lights, I have yet to readjust their height. The best growth usually happens when I do nothing, and I've done almost nothing the past couple days besides enjoy the unusually warm spring weather my area is currently experiencing. Watered today, 100gal (1.5gal p/pot) mixture, <1ec. Mainly an organic feeding for microbe health, also wanted a bit more runoff than normal due to the high ec feeding previously.

Still hadn't really figured it out this week... I was making a lot of mistakes, but the deficiencies weren't showing yet so I had no idea.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Doesn’t liked to be fed super heavy loves dry backs in flower.

Every plant in garden day 56 Noticed yellowing mid week 7 don’t think it fade having some ph issues my run off is 7.2 after flush then watered again still up at 7 so hopefully going to water at like 6 6.1 from now till it goes down growth continues tho some buds getting big ☺️