May 8th, the trellis is getting filled out but the biggest plant is still looking bare and small

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

So at the start of the week I did what everyone says not to with autos; top/fim em!! As I said this is 💯 an experiment so, why not?? The last pic and vid are 3 days after topping

Tag 45: Da ich momentan kaum Zeit habe sehen meine Pflanzen etwas unordentlich aus. Aber ich denke ich kann die Royal Gorilla morgen entlauben und in ein paar Tagen in die Blüte schicken. Tag 46: Ordentlich was weggesäbelt 😁

I will be careful every time I encounter an insect problem and use an insecticide, I will eventually get rid of it with a water care method

Week 3 By week three, the plant begins to show a clearer structure. Leaf size increases slightly, and the stem thickens just enough to support the growing foliage. Internodal spacing remains tight, reinforcing its compact growth pattern. The plant still lags behind others in height and spread, but its overall appearance remains healthy and controlled. There are no visual deficiencies, and growth continues steadily, if modestly.

She is growing vigorous every day. Seems like she has new growth. Super stoked to see how she turns out first time using Athena.🤞🤞🤞🔥💯

What a frosty strain, rivals Stardawg in the stickiness. Good resin potential Not a big feeder, normal levels do the trick as they will show some burn if they dont like it. Not a stinker at all Will try to foxtail @ 85F The stretch caused by the tent space issues with the Green Crack really shows here, man 2 ft of plant that was not needed. My fault, start flower under blue or white lights until stretch ends as they will get tall Serious stretch under HPS Excellent genetics, taste test in a few days I _ WANT_ MORE ... please 😉 Letting the FF7 stay in the tent a bit longer, removed all but the small fans to keep the air moving but slow down the rate. Just test weights (love hanging them like this) say @200g a plant. maybe we will see Almost forgot, pulling a small branch from Aeryn to test Easy harvest, nice dense frosty sticky buds, cannot ask for more.

Week 1 of flower 👍🏾

Yoo it’s kofi cultivate welcome to my garden

We survived Hurricane Beryl baby...time to flower up.

D9 Height is steady 7cm, leafs grow.👍 D11 start with 15min/h Ventilator D12 7.5 cm nice grow

Removed alot of leafs this week. Now i am going to sit back and watch her fatten up. Sour D is a slow finisher around 10-11 weeks of flower. I have a lot of tall colas and a lot of small ones as well :D But the big ones are pretty huge. The stretch surprised me a bit so it was good that i kept her short. Blueberry 420 are following the sour d in height but blueberry only 6 weeks old and is an autoflower but practical none the less. Water schedule is to water every 2-3 days with 4 liters each in coco. 1 liter each for soil when the soil has turned totally dry and dry down to a 2-3 cm dept. All in all amasing plants in my oppinion :D

📆 Semana 9 La Mentha de Croco entra ya en cierre real: los cogollos dejan de crecer pero se endurecen y cargan más resina. Los pistilos empiezan a oscurecer y los tricomas se ponen mayormente lechosos con algún ámbar. El aroma mentolado sube un punto más y los riegos ya son muy suaves, solo para mantenerla estable antes del remate. Afinando resina, terpenos y densidad para la semana 11. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Terrible week. Day 43 - No sign of over-fed. They are doing great regardless the ppm so I checked online and found out the ppm In organic soil could be higher and it's normal. Anyhow, I gave my plants plain PHed water after the fed, and the run off is about 1800ppm. I think I will remain around this ppm for coming weeks. Day 45 - Half of the Led broke. Day 46 - Gave them natural sunlight. Accidentally broke the main stem :(((( Day 47 - New Light, New Tent! (It's BloomPlus BP-1500 light)

Mixed nutrients today. Last night I added 2 ml of oxy science h202 to 18L of Kamloops City water filtered through our homes water filter, no idea what it does exactly lol. I put an air stone over night and let the water bubble off any chlorine and the rest of the h202, I use microbial mass so I just wanted to sanitize the water but not kill my soil. Mixed in bases first into 21.7 C ph 8.1 Water in the morning. Important not to mix concentrated solutions, I used syringes that I rinsed well between products. I find that with this product you just follow the instructions and it’s pretty awesome results.

We harvested one little bud this week. Now we have realised that it was probably premature, but the pistils were orange so we just decided to. We are drying it outdoors in a plastic box with a fan attached to a little solar panel. We will harvest more next week, but right now it is not looking good in terms of the harvest.