Welcome to week 7 of my White Truffle grow! I switched to flowering 5 days ago, 12/12 light cycle. No signs of pistils yet, it's growing nicely, but no crazy stretching. Since this is my first grow with photos, I'm really excited to see how the week goes ✌️ Update: First pistils showing up after 9days of switching to 12/12.

This week I Supercrop all the plants and spred them out over both lights. One more week of Veg and they are ready to explode Check me out on Instagram @growmorestressless

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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Le piante sono supreme, verde smeraldo, in costante e incredibile crescita. I futuri Buds sono già ben visibili e promettono più che bene, come al solito non ho seguito la regolarità della pianta ma ho intrecciato rami senza ritegno 🙈. Per essere il primo giorno della seconda settimana di fioritura sono più che soddifatto Grazie per essere passati Zini✌️🐵✌️

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Well growmies we are 63 days in and everything is going as good as it can👌 Afraid she's had some major issues but that's just how it goes folks 😉 she's definitely on the mend 👈 👉 Shes a short chunky little plant,😉 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 Even with early major issues due to the soil/medium she's come a long way 👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

For the first time, I tried working with enzymes in the irrigation water. These are supposed to break down dead roots and plant material in the soil and make it available to the plant as food. I'm curious to see how it goes. After the first three weeks of light changeover the flower transformation is done. Now it is the right time for defoliation and lollopoping. In case of creamy the defoliation was sorely needed. I removed 6 weaker branches. That was the right decision, because I found two pollen sacs on a branch in the shady interior of the plant. Five days later, I couldn't find any more male flowers, so I hope the problem is solved. Light Power: 100% Day 72 Flower day 29 Photoshooting Defoliaton Day 68 Flower day 25 Lollipopping

800 ml water every day Ph 6.5 Guanogalong veg perls + Guanogalong flowering powder 4 times per week with nutrients 3 times per week clean water

So far - so good, as always. Yesterday switched to 12/12 as the photoperiod one needs to start flowering, it means that autos will spend last two three weeks of their life at 12/12

So fat banana finally got the chop. Started off well then had an influx of heat around mid flower, not a major problem as I dealt with it, just could have gone smoother. She flew through veg with no problems or complaints whatsoever. She was resilient and would grow her again. She smells so loud, covered in frost.. I have a few more pictures of the chop to upload but will do it in a little while. Such a unique scent from her, definitely tropical and banana peel type of aroma and taste(from test smoke). Been a pleasure to grow and can honestly say its some tasty smoke. Will do a proper smoke report after this batch has dried and then cured. Thanks for tuning in! Will be back -FlavoursUk

This week was the start of the flush. After some research and debating on the subject, decided to flush all plants but #8. Wanted to get our own conclusions as to whether or not flushing is necessary. Excited to see the results. Plant #1 - 3500ml water Ph between 6.00 - 6.10 Plant #2 - 3500ml water Ph between 6.00 - 6.10 Plant #6 - 2000ml water Ph between 6.00 - 6.10 Plant #8 - 8ml in 3000ml water Ph between 6.00 - 6.10 Busted out the professional macro camera to check the trichomes. Thanks to a family member for helping out, but I am unable to post any pictures taken sorry all

Great grow. Amazing terps and yield, smooth smoke. Watch for deficiencies and over nuting.

This week has been a mixed bag for my two plants. #1 is really taking off now, showing strong growth and picking up speed!🌱 It’s looking healthy and vigorous, which is great to see. Towards the end of the week, I also noticed the first signs of flowering—exciting! Unfortunately, #2 is still struggling.😩 It has barely grown and remains very small compared to #1. If it doesn’t start making progress soon, I might consider replacing it with another plant. I’ll give it a little more time, but let’s see how things develop in the next week. Fingers crossed!🤞

10/28 - First week in the books. I figured now would be as good a time as any to use a sprouted seed tea because the plants seem to be starting to fully stretch. Pistils are coming slowly but surely. Canopy isn't full but it's still the best I've ever done and I'll take that knowledge into future grows. Exciting weeks ahead. Crazy to think in two weeks it will look more like the finished product than the plants you see before you. I'll take them out for a photo shoot this weekend. The amount times I will be taking them out of the tent will be limited from here-on-out. These plants are getting cumbersome.

Ya comenzaron a tirar los primeros pestillos se les agregó 2cucharadas de fruist & flower de @foxfarm para prepararlas para floración riegos con agua recuperadas de 🌧️ lluvia