There isn’t a ton to report this week other than the two behind my garage are on their stretch, and the one in the garden is bulking up. It has been raining a lot here, I gave all two big dosages of cal/mag and tiger bloom. I figured most of the nutrients were washing through the soil. I haven’t noticed any nute burns, so I’ll likely keep feeding them once a week. I did some bud backbuilding on my garden plant about a week ago, because the other two didn’t look as developed, i snipped the tip of the buds on the other two about two days ago. I think overall I should have a pretty good yield this summer, I wish I had a bit more purple buds, but hey🤷‍♂️ Purple kush none the less. I’m signing out for the week, thanks for tuning in. Cheers.

All three girls are officially in bloom! 🌼 #2, our surprise LST candidate (thanks, fan 😅), has now also entered flowering, and is looking strong! #1 has shot up and is clearly the tallest in the tent, stretching like there’s no tomorrow. Meanwhile, #3 decided to skip the gym and focus on curves, she’s staying short but growing wide, even without any training 💪 Overall, everything is going smooth, healthy. Let’s see what these girls bring in the next few weeks!🌱

more later 3rd Apr, today is day of two Amnesias - its time. they are on peak trichoms are milky 10% amber. Zkittles is on grotek final flush strawberry I trying if it change her smell and she is good now, but I fed her week ago with rocket fuel some fertilizers for peppers (11-6-8) coz im was out with bloom fertilizer, Amnesia 3 get this feed too but little bit improvemed with bio grow and rest of biobloom, yesterday I bought Powder Feeding PK booster/mineral and thats should be good. More later after some smoke :D

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Day 140 decided to water everyone one more time with nutrients. Added some Overdrive to the mix for all my outdoor gals. Some probably need it more than others as I think come next week I might be able to harvest a few of my plants. Plus it is like super hot the past few days and have a little breeze pushing a lovely weed scented breeze out front of the house. Hopefully I don’t attract the wrong type of people to visiting my backyard 😱 Day 141 wow on the overdrive kicking in on everyone outside. Noticeable plumping of my buds when I went to take today’s pictures. Also added a few more doweling into the ground to help support her as she gets plumber, and because it was a little breezy last night Day 144 they just got huge and fat overnight. Plus a first for me, a little walk around my beauty

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Day 57- doing well 2500ml heavy pre-flowering blend Day 58 - Great! 5000ml - Flush with Plain water, getting ready for the Late Flower blend tomorrow Uploaded a video Day 59 3000ml Late Flower Blend - amazing foliar helath and bud development! We will have a great yield Day 60 1500 plain water, then later in the day 1500ml Late Flower Blend, flowering is going very well, light at 100% Day 61 1500ml Late Flower Blend, will folllow by 1500ml plain water Day 62 1500ml Late Flower Blend, will folllow by 1500ml plain water These are going to be super powerful buds! Day 63 1500ml Late Flower Blend, will folllow by 1500ml plain water - growing very well!

Day 58, 7th of November 2020: The 6th day since the lamp switched to be 12/12... I raised up the nutrition intake as it can be seen above only the BioBizz family 2ml/l and removed some LST because the plant remains in shape or just set a bit but nothing significant.... Amazing....strech is on the way..... 😅 Love this plant looking really nice keeps growing :) Nothing really to report there is crazy 2-3 weeks from now ;) ;)

what a resin monster! such beautiful plants! one of the 2 phenos had straight peanutbutter flavor!

HARVEST DAY!!!.... What a beautiful plant.. I can't wait to give her a taste.. Was expecting to push her another week.. But a closer look showed that there were alot of amber already.. Kinda hard to see them against the purple calyxes along with with the Mars Hydro TS 1000 on as well.. But she should be perfect! Oh I cant wait!!! Will be updating with the drying and curing as I go!!! So happy!!! 😭😭😭 Drying - Day 4... Ok so humidifier is definately not needed this time lol.. For a couple days the room and box were at 70% so I took the water and filter out of the humidifier and just running it as a fan to help move the air around the small room its drying in.. The box also has a very small and weak computer fan which is just pulling the air out SLOWLY but SURELY.. Now the humidity inside the box has been reading 66% constantly for the last 2 days! This will be my first harvest that doesnt dry in 3 - 5 days without a humidifer! Maybe cuz I watered that morning?? Idk.. But this is much better.. Hoping for at least a 7 day dry.. 10 or 12 would be nice.. But I doubt that very much lol.. Anyways.. Will still be updating as I go!!! Drying - Day 5... So I went ahead and trimmed all the smaller nugs and colas.. Leaving the 3 biggest colas (back of the box) to trim in the morning tomorrow. I wish I would have lollipopped some.. Alot of larfy, leafy nugs.. But still gonna smoke that shit! Lol.. Took about 2.5 hours to trim what I did today.. Keeping the trim (duh) to make some bubble hash.. Or maybe just gather the keif and press it.. Haven't made up my mind on that yet.. Either way it's gonna be some epic shit! The smell is still so amazing! You could probably fuck up the drying and curing and still smell the citus! Lol.. But I will still keep updating as I go! Drying - Day 7.. I went ahead and put some smaller nugs into a jar to see what they were reading.. Still way too high.. In about 8 hours it was reading 84% RH so they still got at least a couple more days drying. Drying - Day 8... Ok so I was feeling the nugs I already trimmed and jarred.. They feel pretty crispy. So I'm jarring them again today. I have trimmed up 2 more of the bigger colas but I can feel that they still have some moisture.. So later today I'm going to finish trimming up the last one (which is gonna be awful lol it has alot of smaller branches that are gonna be very tedious) but that one is gonna have to be left out to dry a little longer than the rest. As of now, I have 3 jars filled.. I may even need to buy another jar.. I really wish I had some big mouth mason jars so I can buy those lids for curing! Those things look legit asf! Later that night... So I have now finished trimming.. The jars that I had already filled were reading 62% RH on the dot.. I like to have it at 65% - 68% RH to have some room to get it down to 62% after a week or two.. But this shouldnt be any issue.. Will add 62% packs when the jars get below 60%.. But since they are already at 62%.. I dont want to burp very often at all.. 62% RH is where I like my bids at. I have a sandwich bag FULL of trim.. That is gonna make some amazing bubble hash! Very airy bud.. But this strain is very beautiful.. Smells great.. Just the airy buds.. Will definately grow again.. Will update with a taste test in 15 - 30 days.. Would rather get the cure done before I taste her.

This strain smells so sweet and mint like, I love it. It’s my first time so I have no parameters for comparison, but I sure learned a lot.

Das erste und letzte mal getoppt, angestrebt ind 6 Haupttriebe pro Pflanze. Gelato Kush macht mit Abstand den besten Eindruck.

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Nothing special to say, she's still happy and eat all I give, Buds keep coming along and bump, they are more and more fat and frosty each day 🌲❄️😋 💪keep removing some leaves 🍃 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 1.5 l Water + Roots + Zym + Bloom + Green Sensation (1 + 1 + 5 + 1 ml/l) 1.5 l Water + Roots + Zym + Bloom + Green Sensation + Sugar Royal (1 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 1 ml/l) 1.5 l Water + Roots + Zym + Bloom + Green Sensation (1 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 1ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 34 cm. Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 6, don't need more for the moment, no smeel out of the tent. Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Anesia Seeds - Frozen Black Cherry Auto🌲🌲🍒🍒 https://anesiaseeds.com/product/frozen-black-cherry-auto/

Hard buds, nice outcome, super sticky

Bonjour a tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Pour cette semaine 4 je surveille comme à mon habitude hygrométrie et arrosage. Je peaufine mon LST en stressant ma plante le moins possible. Je combine mon LST avec un pincage d'Apex cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Petit rappel sur le pincage d'Apex: Le pinçage des plantes de cannabis Proche de la taille d’apex sur le principe, cette technique possède cependant plusieurs avantages, le principal étant de conserver le gros bud central de la plante, d’une production et qualité maximale. Pinçage des plantes de cannabis Le pinçage d’apex (tête de la plante) consiste simplement à pincer délicatement la tige du dernier étage de la plante, entre le pouce et l’index, jusqu’à sentir la fibre s’écraser sous les doigts avec un petit bruit critch caractéristique. Si l’espace disponible sur la tige du dernier étage ne permet pas d’y placer confortablement ses doigts, il faudra plutôt pincer l’étage du dessous. Le pinçage ralentira fortement la croissance verticale de la plante, tout en stimulant le développement des branches secondaires, donnant ainsi à la plante une forme de buisson. La plante mettra quelques jours à réparer ce pinçage, formant un nœud à cet endroit, et poursuivra ensuite sa croissance de façon normale. Le pinçage peut alors être répété si nécessaire, sur l’étage suivant nouvellement formé, ainsi que sur les éventuelles branches secondaires qui pourraient dépasser l’apex. Le pinçage est donc une excellente technique pour avoir une belle canopée uniforme de type marée verte. En pinçant régulièrement l’apex des plus grandes plantes de votre espace, durant la croissance et en début de floraison (stretch), vous obtiendrez ainsi facilement des plantes de hauteur homogène en pleine floraison, ce qui facilitera la culture et augmentera la production finale, surtout si vous cultivez simultanément de multiples variétés de marijuana. Avec un peu d’habitude le pinçage pourra être réalisé aussi rapidement qu’efficacement. En cas de pinçage trop violent qui se traduirait par un apex arraché, cela produira simplement les mêmes résultats qu’une taille classique de l’apex, ce qui ne sera donc pas dramatique. Que la force soit avec vous💪

Did get to rake to many pictures this week due to the holidays so most are towards day 5-6. Will be adding big bug and bud candy from here out :)

So I have spider mites. I screwed up so much i think this is going 15 weeks. Lost coast to the rescue! time to finish these buggers off