The grow path is going good i think . This random unknown strain is a mystery ! She doesn't want a lot nutrients . This plant is easy to grow ! Guys if you have some advices about this grow i am open to listen all ! Thanks a lot !! Better grow coming

No food just Water (Grow Dots) Day 22 Transplant to 3gal pots Day 23 start of LST

Day 106 The close-up view shows very healthy flowering development. Buds are stacking up nicely with dense clusters forming and plenty of white pistils still visible, showing that the plant is still actively flowering. The trichome production is already significant, giving the buds a frosty appearance. The sugar leaves around the buds are coated with resin, a good indicator of potency.

Eccoci di nuovo qui!!! Super eccitato per questa nuova collab con Exotic Seed, team davvero al top, che mi ha dato l’opportunità di testare questa nuova genetica e di condividere i progressi con tutti voi!!! Come sempre partiamo nei bicchieri per poi travasare.. Questa volta verrà svolto tutto sotto la Lumatek Zeus 465 ProC, mi aspetto molto da questo ciclo!! Questa piccola ha avuto la sfortua di essere piantata in vaso da 5l, ma comunque ha tenuto lo stesso il passo delle altre mostrando che le auto possono e devono essere coltivate indoor.. Con cime che sembrano cervelli e dal colore nero è una delle genetiche che fumandola mi ha trasmesso di più avendo un sapore di cioccolato fondente intenso che ti manda su di giri!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto ❤️🍀🔥

Defoled and tied down and she’s pumping now , another week of veg keeping up the defol and spreading her out before flipping. I’ll raise the lights this week to get a bit more vertical growth .

So it seems like she's only grown a tiny amount in height this week but she's bushed out quite a lot. 💪

It’s now showing pistils pretty well, and I got some critical peyote from Barney farms In a napkin right now There is a little burnt tip on fan leaves I think too much nitrogen since it’s in the big pot and the leaves are dark green. But looks good happy I picked the internodes during preflower too

This grow has just remained on autopilot, I am very pleased. I have cut back water a bit they were looking a little unhappy going to give them a dry back and not feed a whole day.

Auto looks done. Pakistan Valleys look almost done. Candy may need another couple weeks. What do u think i should do guys? Should i wait and harvest all together? Or harvest the auto now, then the kush and lastly the Candy? What's the best way. Also i had been planning to dry them all in my tent. If I do a staggered harvest, i have to build a box or empty out a closet to try and dry them in 😫

Back from vacation Having struggles with space at the top of the box Can't get the lamp higher atm so PPFD is way to high with 1100-1300 at headbuds (23cm lamp to bud) Getting a new exhaust fan in a few days Will install the new fan (PK100-TC) and get the lamp higher with that Means stress for them but I think it's better than having this high PPFD and temperatures late bloom

D56 - Plants were looking good | 6L of Water DLI | 43 But while watering saw that the left plant was a herm.... Saw a couple pollen sacks and plucked them but overall decided not worth it and culled it. Shame... Flipped on day 38 would push out to 49 next time Did some LST and supercropping on the survivor to fill up the tent. D57 - Did an autopsy on the herm'd out plant.. Taking a look at the main root ball she was root bound. When i did the transplant, right afterwards... I remembered I should've roughed up the roots (out of the cup form). The video shows what I mean. The roots were growing well but were all twisted and crossweaved. Found a handful of pollen sacks today on the survivor, the outlook is ominous, this one likely has the same root issue going on. Will check over the next few days but not holding out much hope, once the herm trait is activated, there's no reversing it...

*********Week 4 Flower - October 10 to 16, 2020, Days 22 to 28********* They are doing awesome!!! Nice progress for week 4. The tent is getting stuffy and full. Flower has been very strong for growth. Cream 47 girls are getting thicker and praying hard everyday. The leaves are big and pointing up everyday. Further leaf strip this week to allow more light below. Nutrients are following the same for the most part this week. Big Bud doing its job and helping to swell the colas. Silica still added to keep strengthening her stems. Overall, stay the course this week and keep them happy. Getting stuffy and looking forward to a bigger tent arriving soon😀 Little more detail........ Oct 11/20, Day 23 - 4L - Rezin, Terpinator @ 2ml, Big Bud, B52 @ 1.5ml, CalMag, Sensi Bloom, Bud Candy @ 1ml - good amount of runoff from the pots. - water only next feed.....reminder😀 - had some higher heat levels yesterday at 86 degrees. The leaf strip is helping and down to 82 now. Oct 12/20, Day 24 - Light watering again today. - 3L with Enzymes @ 1ml = 25ppm and 5.6pH - Leaves are darkening up.....little concerning. - letting them do their thing. Oct 13/20, Day 25 - 3L - Rezin, B52 @ 2ml, CalMag @ 1ml = 400ppm and 6.1pH. (missed pH was 6.4…...added B52 to lower) - took a couple of lower branches from C47 girls. Oct 14/20, Day 26 - 3L - Microbial Mass @ 1.5ml, Piranha @ 1ml = 80ppm and 5.9pH (was shooting for 6.0) - C471 had runoff pretty quickly. - Microbes to help the roots as we get closer to the end. - sticky girls removing a couple of leaves today. So that wraps up the week. They look good but I am not seeing huge changes from the start of the week? Looking good though......keep getting frosty girls👍

Stems are getting top heavy, more weight packed on and they are starting to lean, I don't have room for a scrog net. Pistils are turning amber, only about 10% so far on day one. I hand plucked off the small larfy, sucker buds. I let some go too long and the large majority are worth keeping. Next time I will have the courage to defoliate properly! I get so scared after weeks or months of growing and then removing growth. Final day of week and these colas are stacking on so much weight they are bending over. Noticed nutrient deficiencies and tried to adjust accordingly. Hoping the problem doesn't get exacerbated.

Day 25

Greeeeeat week! Dynomyco has truly helped this Girly to get off to an amazing start and gave her the force to gain thick stems and more branches! It could also be the addition of Co2 in the grow area! I also give her a diluted foliar feed of formulex as she goes through the day as I have a very low humidity for that week but I can bring it up now as I don’t need it so low in my home! (Was drying other plants)

Organic 💯💖, very excited about this lady! Going through a little shock had to transplant while in transition 😒 so she doesn't have root issues in near future , will bounce back quickly , all is well 😁🌱🖤

Probably about 2-3 weeks of Veg

Week 2 of flower

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia