8/26 FED TODAY. 2 GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. THE WATERING CAN I USE IS ABOUT A HALF GALLON SO THAT'S WHAT A NORMAL PLANT HAS BEEN GETTING. Wow. What a week I had last week. I'm hoping things are going up from here. It's overcast but we have a 90% chance of rain. Thunderstorms. I'm wondering if I should put my back tarp up. The wind doesnt seem too bad so I'll play it by ear. The remaining plants seem to be doing good to me. I wanted to let the soil dry out but I NEEDED to feed. Buds are popping up everywhere and increasing in size. Earwigs still seemed to lollipop the interior branches (mostly larfy stuff but still). I attached a picture so people can see what I mean. I'm getting hit on all fronts but I'm still kicking! I'll update as I go. Some pictures won't upload. I'll have to do it later. Oh and my ph is on point for once. I tested all plants a bunch of different places and readings were 6.6 to 7.3 at the highest. 8/27 Rained last night but not as bad as I thought it would. We are supposed to have some good weather coming up so I'm hoping my medium will get a chance to dry put. Still liking the liquid kool bloom. I'll up the dose next feed. I'm going to need to do another application of plant doctor this week too. It's about time for a BT application as well. I see moths flying off when I check early in the morning and I've observed some pillar damage. I'm slightly worried about soul going anaerobic. The color of the gdps are too lime green for my liking but our weather has been horrid. I never remember having to deal with shit like this. The branch that was all drooped with fusarium wilt has one (the closest to the stalk) shoot that has repaired itself. That gives me hope but I really should just amputate that branch. I guess I'm just nervous because of the reaction I had last time. Granted I've cut tons and tons of branches off in the past and prune things they didn't have whatever pathogen these do. Septoria is still there on one of the GDPs but it seems to be doing okay. I'm SLIGHTLY worried about the change in color on my big NYCSA. It's lost some of its vibrancy. I think it's kinda normal. I'm sure it has some PM (which I'm hoping plant doctor and the silica will help repress) but I think it will be a heavy yielding plant. Sun's poking out. The little clones I took are exploding in growth. They might not yield much but I'm glad I didn't just chuck them like I was going too. 8/28 Things are still looking good! We got some sunshine yesterday and the sunshine out today. Buds are really starting to form and colas are taking their shape. I'm slightly concerned with the coloring of my NYCSA but it started flowering later than the others so senescence may be behind. I may have lost half this year but looking at other diaries and attitudes of soms others I'm pretty fucking lucky. I didn't have much time this morning so I'll update later. I need to keep up with my IPM and do BT treatment and follow up with a second dose of plant doctor. 8/29 Super rushed morning. Only had time to shake the dew off the plants and snap a couple quick pictures. I lowered the growbig this week. I think that was a mistake. Plants are flowering like crazy. My NYCSA doesn't seem as vibrant green as it was. I may up feeding to twice a week or at least give them a little growbig if I need to water. I want tge medium to stay dry for a while. I also needcto cut that dead branch. I'm just afraid of a situation line before where the whole plant died. My anxiety disorder really hampers my growing ability. I qorry far too much. I should just cut it off right now. I've also seen pillar damage so I'm going to need to do a BT spray. I have the other organocide that's the 3 in 1 but I can't use it in flower. I'll just have to stagger applications. Either that or do another root drench or "sprench" and a foliar with the BT on another day. I have WPM on the garden and I'm pretty sure septoria. This plant was perfect though. I'm afraid it might be getting sick. Either way it'd an extremely resilient strain. The little 9lb kush I have in a 3 gallon is flowering the fastest. It really fuckihgcsucks I lost those massive plants. Judging by this "clone" I took off the other clone (I know) this strain wouldve been the first to finish. EDIT: Went back over to check the medium and do some slight defoliation. I inspected the stalks and the dead branch. The dead branch has a small indent (from breakage, insects or rot) where the branch connects to the stalk. I've seen this before but had no problems. However THIS branch seems to he coming out of the stalk RIGHT where the rot is. I cut the other one off that ENORMOUS 9lb Kush and it was dead a few hours later. I talked to my father who has degrees in biology and forestry (among other things) and he said he couldn't really see the harm in leaving it. I am worried that a cutworm mightve gotten in bit I don't see any evidence of any borer insect. Under that stem there is more "bark" and other stuff but nothing like a borer makes. I'm going back over tonight to treat with either BT or Plant Doctor. Haven't decided which. Probably the plant doctor. 8/30 Didn't have time for pictures. Large NYCSA NOW has fusarium wilt. Either I'm the most unlucky grower in our area or my plants got dosed with fusarium. After the research I've done I've cone to the conclusion that this season will be a complete loss. Maybe the two small separate cuttings will make it through flower. The rest is just a waiting game to see if fusarium kills it before they finish flowering. Even if it doesn't then I don't know if I would want to smoke the flowers. I'm shopping online for grow equipment. I'm going to do some indoor this winter. Wow this feels like a kick in the nuts. I'm a good dude. Like I said I'm just either the unluckily grower around or my plants had a little help. Who knows. EDIT: I treated everything with Pkant Doctor again. I'll feed tomorrow and see if some miracle happens and I actually get something 8/31 I added a few pictures so folks can see what fusarium looks like and how it progresses. As you can see it killed a branch and is progressing to the next and so on until the plant is typically dead. No need to get too scientific on the mechanism of action. I FED 2 gallons today. Still kept growbig low dosing.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

This week has been amazing really see the love and effort put into these girls the whole garden is taking shape very fast daily could not have done it without Royal Qween Seeds big shout out to them 1st seed company I've ever used and will continue to have RQS in my garden somewhere for future grows and shout out to spider farmer - living soils - future garden-spacehydro - UK skunkworks - could not be were I am now without these guys

BigBloom boost Tri

growing happily along, platinum yeti stretching more then sour 76. defoliate day 21 . smell starting to come on, stopped using foliar feed this week, been on top of hitting compost teas every single off watering (1 feed heavy 16 nutes, 1 compost tea when coco dries. repeat).

Can't wait for each of them to finish out. Giving them hopefully their full amount of water, less with the auto as it was stunted by the 12/12.

Its week 5 of flowering now(week 10). Smell is quite gassy/strong terpene. Nutrients are still same.

Week continued pony-tailing tops until the middle of the week some tops outgrew the ties . She’s grown back week after that defoliation . I’m proud of her she’s almost 1 ft tall 😂. Shes truly a shrub like plant now. We’re waiting for those dry amendments to become available to her and are hopeful for the next 4 weeks to be explosive in uniform growths across the canop

welcome to Day 64 2/19/2021 so she looks about ready for harvest so I'm giving her overdrive for just one last kick. she has had a hard life with me learning the new autopot system but I think I fixed the problem and she is recovering. this will be the last week and i may even skip flush it depends on her I just need to keep and eye on her I don't want to wait to long and get bud rot. happy growing and as always keep your stick on the ice

Aquí las fotos de esta nueva semana de vegetación para ambas plantas, cumpliendo así la white widow 23 dias de plantada y la zinfandel 16. La fotos corresponden al 21, 24 y 27 de abril. Por ahora no hay nada más que agregar. Ya que esta semana solo agregué algo de sustrato en ambas y el riego fue de agua reposada con una bomba dando oxígeno por 24hr y un ph de 6,1 a 6,5. Lo que no sé es si realizar alguna tipo de poda más adelante o si mejor las dejo crecer como son, ya que no sé mucho. Existe el temor de dañarlas o estresarlas demasiado. Lo pensaré, también recibo cualquier consejo u observación con ellas!

Week 4 day 22 F and I decided it was time for a stronger defoliation, like this i will assure a good airflow tru all canopy and like this i save my self time after defoliating and i took also all of the lower baby buds, this way they can focos all they're energy in making good bud 😆🤩 Week 4 day 22 F And they are all growing as they should, all of the plants recovered good from the early stresses (remember i almost kill them all by letting them dry for 5 days wile trimming and taking care pf my previous run 🤦 ) and are promising hi quality medicine 🤞💚😅 Week 4 day 26F And they recovered from the mass defoliation like nothing happened 😆 they are looking strong as never and on a promising road, lets see were will they take me 😅💚 I will raise this values along this week but for now i’m still like this : PPFD - 750 Umol/m2 DLI - 32.2 mol/m2d VPD - 1.30 kPa Girls: SAD f1 @seewtseeds Badazz Cookies OJ @seedsman Alaskan Purple @seedsman Peyote Gorilla @seedsman Super Glue @anesiaseeds White Mango @personalfriendstrain Light Lumatek Zeus 465W compact pro at 110% All i grow is medecine for myself, nothing to sell, dont even ask !!!! Stay safe and do it with love for the love ❤️ 🙏 💚Growers Love to you all 💚

🎃👹👽MONSTERCROPPING RED MANDARINE 👽👹🎃 ____________________________________________________________________________________ 💀 19.3 ... 💀 20.3 ... 💀 21.3 ... 💀 22.3 ... 💀 23.3 ... 💀 24.3 ... 💀 25.3 i'm holding on to her but i want more amber trichomes for this teaching, i will mature and concise it well before trying it: p ____________________________________________________________________________________________ 📜👀 A look at the details of what I'm growing 👀📜 🍊💚 Red Mandarine F1 🍊💚 by 🌱🍭 Sweet Seeds 🍭🌱 📋 Details ⚧ Gender ▪️ Feminised ➰ Genes ▪️ 55% Indica / 45% Sativa 🎄 Genetics ▪️ Red Poison Auto (SWS39) хCalifornia Orange x Skunk hybrid) 🚜Harvest ▪️ 400 - 500 g / m² 🌷Flowering ▪️ 49 - 63 days ✨THC ▪️ 16% ✅CBD ▪️ 0,2% 🏡Room Type ▪️ Indoor 🌄Room Type ▪️ Outdoor 🕋Room Type ▪️ N/D 🎂Release Year ▪️ 2019 __________________________________________________________________________ 👀📷🥇 Follow the best photos on Instagram 🥇📷👀 https://www.instagram.com/dreamit420/ 🔻🔻🔻Leave a comment with your opinions if you pass by here🔻🔻🔻 🤟🤗💚Thanks and Enjoy growth 💚🤗🤟

Ajusted the fertilizer ratios to meet more optimal solution.

For this week, since its second week of bloom, will give it a P boost to the 1st gen mother to make sure she knows it's time to switch gears and flower. So taking out Flora Bloom and added dry Koolbloom which is 1-42-22 450PPM and also added 100 PPM of Flora Grow and 100 of CaMg for my main macro/supplement. Will be doing silica every other week and Hydro guard every week (since I found brown slime) Will resume with Flora Bloom next week. Been only doing Hydro for cloning and vegging so its my first time encountering brown Slime. Anyone know how I can get rid of it? What I know... - Need to lower PH to closer to 5-5.5 from 6.0 - Added Hydro Guard to fight slim - Minimize Air Stone duration - Been having it on pretty long because I have one large pump and I use it to brew Compost tea for my organic grow. - Need to minimize light penetration to resi - I have a perforated plastic cover laying around the house and I have been using that to cover the resi and sometime I even forget to put it on. Anything else? I run totally chemical nutes from GH Flora Series. And I have been sharing the PH and PPM meter with my organic nuets which I brew for 36 hours before use. Maybe some of that got contaminated thru that? Cause I have been using the same bucket system (without res) to raise my mothers for almost 7 months already and never encounter any slim before. I think I finally understand what tops are LOL: So please correct me if I am wrong... What I understand: - All tops large or small will "stretch" at the first weeks of flowering - Most of the "stretch" only occurs at the tops - The "stretch" will determine the length of that bud - The "stretch" should be as high as possible BUT with short distances between the NEW internodes that develop during that period. for a large and dense bud. - Don't get confused with stretch that cannabis experience under low light. Happy Grower Brothers and Sisters BM 4TwenTee

Hello Diary, What a trip. I read a lot about the new F1 hybrid strains when they came out and was really interested to see how quickly they would develop. And indeed, in the end I can say that I am very satisfied with the Medusa F1. I planted three seeds but one did not sprout so two remained on the farm. The first Medusa was ready to harvest 68 days after the seed was placed in the ground, the second Medusa stayed a week longer. All the time the vegetation and flowering grew happily and contentedly. I didn't feed them too many additional supplements and they grew as if they were on steroids. After harvesting the first plant, I put it in a cardboard box to dry to protect it from light since the second plant was still on the farm. Drying lasted 14 days, after which I trimmed the flowers and put them in jars. The final result is 116 grams of dried flowers. Medusa F1 #1 - 47 g. Medusa F1 #2 - 69 g. In the end, I can only honestly recommend everyone to try growing this great strain. Thank you all for your support and see you soon with new F1 strains.

Feb 22 / Day 74: Heavy defoliation of many fan and larger sugar leaves

One of the seedlings died. Oh well. Dropped another seed in a cup of dechlorinated water today to start another one. It's been getting significantly warmer out so hopefully that will help things along.

3 ml npk in 2 l water And given half of it! Plant seems to like it And pruning worked wonder! Leaves are healthy and getting much bigger in size! 15 cms+ excited!!

Day 63 veg last day of veg going to.give plants a 36hour dark period before the flick some leafs are still looking slightly yellow super cropped few of the longer branches to.help maintainneven canopy when going 12/12 lights are on 600w settings to get it ready for.flowering