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@ngenius
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week one ( day 1-7) went great , i germinated both seed in paper towels and transferred them to big pots . 1 (30 liter pot) !(25 liter pot). after that i got them outside in the sun as much as i could (it was pretty grey and bad weather) while keeping the soil damp with a spraybottle and keeping a sliced bottle over the top to increase humidity. just had to wait for my tent and lights to arive the first week.
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@Ninjabuds
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Buds all over and the leaves are turning a nice purple the buds have not filled in yet but they will over time seems like it’s gonna be a slow flowering plant
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I was selected to test some of Fastbuds new genetics. Seeds germinated and 4 days later it broke ground and is looking great. This grow is in my 4x4ft grow space located in an uninsulated shed. Each plant has a dedicated 150-200w LED from Viparspectra or Mars. Winter Temps in my area spike to -15C or more in Jan and Feb, so this will be an interesting and challenging grow. The grow room is 20-30C above ambient temperature, so there is a little manual and auto manipulation of grow Temps. See my video Lights 50-75%, 30 inches, 75-120w per plant Soil temp: 21-25C Light cycle: 5:1 Air temp: 18-27C
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Day 7 today from sprout. They are doing great, but i have sometimes 29c in the tent and my humidy sometimes fall to right under 40% which i dont like, but the girls seems to like it. Also i lowered both lights 10 cm down.. The Led is about 70cm above, and the HPS 70cm. I may begin feeding them very soon with BioGrow and BioHeaven but only 1/4 of recommended dossage. In the night i now have around 60% humidity, and it also helped me get my core tempature down from 28-29c to around 26-27c because my lights wasnt on 24h anymore
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Bewässerung: 1000 ml jeden 3 Tag in der zehnte Woche pH-Wert: 6 EC-Wert: 1.2 mS/cm Temperatur: 20ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 65% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen von befall wir haben nur mal zur Prävention etwas Sand gegen die Schnecken um die Pflanze gemacht, dies verhindert das diese sich nähern. Wir haben aber auch Raubmilben ins spiel gebracht zur vorsorge gegen Spinnmilben und andere Schädlinge 😷 PPFD: Direktes Sonnenlicht DLI: Direktes Sonnenlicht -Tag 63 bei der Space Cookies #2 werden die Blüten immer dichter 😍 -Tag 69 Heute haben wir die Space Cookies #2 mit ca. 5l Wasser und 500ml Brenneseljauche gegossen 😏
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Aplicando tierra de diatomeas Y creo que va bien... Me encanta cultivar en exterior pero nunca puedes ir muy alto y los bichos son lo peor.... Vamos avanzando y espero que está nena le siga gustando el exterior
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"Mens Dei" What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day to scavenge ROS made from photosynthesis. The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank it. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " A leaf can perform cellular respiration and photosynthesis simultaneously. During daylight hours, plant cells utilize both processes: photosynthesis to produce glucose and oxygen, and cellular respiration to break down glucose and release energy for the cell's needs. The products of photosynthesis (glucose and oxygen) are used as reactants in cellular respiration, while the products of cellular respiration (carbon dioxide and water) can be used in photosynthesis. The limiting factor is the oxidative capacity; the less a leaf is utilizing photosynthesis, the less oxidative capacity it uses, and the more it can perform cellular respiration. Even if a leaf is not in an optimal photosynthetic position, it can still utilize respiration to its full capacity during daylight hours. Kinda too much info to explain when some asks if they should defoliate or not, yeah add calmag or some shit. BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs*
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05/31 -Day 64 ~650 PAR across the canopy. A & B continuing to stack. C & D’s pistols are starting to change colors along with some swelling. 06/03 - DAY 67 (C) top nugs are feeling tight and hard. Still assuming another 2 weeks till chop. (D) Foxtails coming out everywhere but not too extreme. Possibly another 2 weeks. (A) & (B) slowly progressing still.
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I should’ve scrog’ed with my strongest two plants. Trying to pull some very heady buds so went all out on Advsnced Nutrients. Going to A/b test with budget synthetics next grow
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@Ninjabuds
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Rainbow Saltz is looking really strong, and it's definitely one of my bigger plants. The colors are so vibrant, and I love the unique look of it. Another great variety from lit Farms. I can't wait to see how it performs. Last week was awesome! I finally got around to giving all my plants a little upgrade – I repotted them into some bigger homes. They're all looking so happy and healthy now, it's crazy. I can't wait to see how much they grow this year!
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@ctm_dzagi
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Dynamics starts to gain momentum Slightly straightened, poured compote With a metal stick кemoved all the shoots from the branches there is no point wasting resources on them You can speed up the filling of the pot from the top by lowering the light, but then the root will not have time to fill the pot, so just wait I refresh the bend every day Сut the side light to the maximum, turned off the sink, it's too cold at night at the end of the week, work began on preparing for the replacement by the middle row
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So I found my issue with my droopy leaves and light leaves. Not enough water and she wants more phosphorus. I up'ed my water time to 15 mins 7x a day. (Ebb & flow in clay pellets). This week she has gotten most of her green back but I feel it's delayed the flowering alittle. Maybe not. This is my 1st auto and it's only supposed to have a week left. We will see.
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Esta semana fue divertida, tocó hacer el topping y el LST. Con respecto al primero, creo que podría haber esperado más tiempo ya que las ramas laterales del tercer nudo estaban muy chicas, pero estoy buscando estresar lo menos posible a la planta así que decidí hacerlo el día 40. Espere dos días a que la plante se recupere y las ramas comiencen a crecer e hice el LST. Hice un vídeo del topping + LST. Con respecto a los inputs, los primeros días de esta semana llovió mucho y las plantas se encuentran bajo un techo mínimo por lo que algo de agua las regó. El día del topping regué con FPJ y el día del LST regué con Compost tea + Melaza orgánica. Esto ha sido todo por ahora... Cualquier sugerencia es bienvenida! Buenos cultivos!😃
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@BudXs
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Wonderful looking grow to date. Environment is on point, nutes at just the right level. 15 more days of veg and then the mothers will be cloned, the best BB and Slurry phenos chosen for pollination, a few mothers donated, and the autos under a dedicated qb. Nothing else to report. Except that bitch Carol fucking Baskin did it
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This one didn't put on near as much stretch as the last one but she is doing well. A little heavy on the nutrients so I diluted the the reservoir. She is doing her thing making some buds.
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@Oldwied
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Good morning little miss sunshine. Using heatmat at 24°C for the first week. Light Power: 40% Soil in the final pot: I use 80% Dope Soil - florganics & 20 % garden compost. The soil was used by two grow sessions before. In the last one I added the compost. For this grow I added a 1/2 cup Dolomite limestone in the middle layer of the earth. To prevent Ca, Mg deficiency. Covered with 5cm old mulch. Watering with 2,5L tapwater and let it flow DAY 6 Cover open and she can feel the first breeze. DAY 7 Welcome in the final 25L pot .
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@Darksoul
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Week 6 - Maybe the last vegetative week. Everyone is topped and LST. I think I will let them grow in peace this week (Ill just fix the lst, no more toppings or cutting fan leaves) and install my scrog net
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Water feed ph 5.8 twice daily 1 cup 1 gallon pot
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Hello everyone! I promised to track this grow very closely this time and ufortunately life got in the way. Here is a quick sumup of the grow. First of all- One of the sour stomper plants unfortunately didn't make it. It died at about week 4. The main stem somehow had rubbed/broken down. That's why it was falling down. It was almost like a mini beaver had chewed it off at the point where the stem touches the riot rooter. At first I thought nothing much of it, maybe it hasn't been rooted in quite well yet or something. And I was constantly touiching it when watering, that made it worse. Soo the leaves were dropping and the plant looked very weak. Then I decided cut thr rapid rooters top layer and found out the severity of the problem. Tried to tape it up and other things, but it was too late. At the end it appeared all good as the remaing plants got so big the I had some space issue so I wouldn't have been able to fit another plant in anyway. At that time I finally made my self-draining saucers. I took me a while and a lot of effort, but finally they were ready and working well. I also installed the self watering system and flowering was starting. Pretty soon I started noticing weird leaf symtoms. Brown spots, different kind. Some plants had it more, some less. Sour Stomper looked pretty good throughout the grow. Mango smiles seemed sensitive and Strawberry Nuggs were pretty strong until the end. The grow was basically me experimenting with the setup- changing watering schedules , changing ppm, ph and all that stuff to keep the leaves looking healthy and it was very hard I have to admit. Probably my hardest grow in that regard. But somehow, the bud leaves remained healthy and the buds really fattened up good. I got away with an amzing 700G dry bud harvest which was def a new record from one grow. And the bud quality is very good too! Next time definetly no more than 4 plants as they got pretty big and I thought it was a little overcrowded. I was doing some good defoliation too. I should have defolited strawberry nugs more tho. Sour Stomper got some amazing bud development from top to bottom because it was was growing next to strawberry nuggets which were really small most of the grow. They actually took the most time to harvest even longer than Mango smile. Mango smiles were ready quite early. Sour Stomper was just in time! I topped sour stomper and both Mangoi smiles, left SNs both normal. Looking back at it, the way I grow them, Should have topped SNs too. Would probably have more space in the middle and longer side branches. Probably wouldn't have been as bushy! I followed the full Terra aquatica feed chart until the end. I was supplementing with CalMag a lot as I thought the symptoms could have been from a CalMag deficiency as this was my first grow with RO water. Overall a very challenging but good grow at the end. First time no mold problems. A record breaking yield for me. Basically surpassed the upper limit for all plant probable harvest sizes. Got good smelling quality bud. Very happy overall and will continue experimenting with Mephisto beans in the future for sure! I guess what I like the most about Mephisto is how close to description the plant is, very stable genes in that regard. Next time I will also have to start feeding plants higher PPM feed faster at the very start. and during flowering. But still not 100% sure what caused the leaf symptoms.