The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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La planta le encantó la nueva luz y empezó estirarse demasiado tanto que para controlar su altura apliqué una poda apical la cual respondió muy bien y empezo a sacar 2 puntas principales
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@Lazuli
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There will be more blue dream later
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Comecei uma semana realizando o treinamento de baixo estresse e uma desfoliação. Não fiz poda top, não acho que seja adequado para plantas rápidas. Vamos ver como vai ser o resultado. Não pretendo mais fazer intervenções no crescimento. A pequena lá do fundo não vou mexer .
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Week 11 - The buds are stretching and getting bigger. She is huge did not expect that and I was not prepare which can cost me in yield/quality but will see.
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Chemical reactions in which, a single substance splits up into two or more simpler substances are called decomposition reactions. These reactions are carried out by energy, supplied by different sources. The required energy can be supplied by heat (thermolysis), electricity (electrolysis), or light (photolysis). Let’s talk about photolysis reactions (not photosynthesis): Photolysis (also called photodissociation and photodecomposition) is a chemical reaction, in which a chemical (an inorganic or an organic) is broken down by photons and is the interaction of one or more photons with one target molecule. The photolysis reaction is not limited to the effects of visible light, but any photon with sufficient energy (higher than the dissociation energy of the targeted bond) can cause the chemical transformation of the said (inorganic or organic) bond(s) of a chemical. Since the energy of a photon is inversely proportional to the wavelength, electromagnetic waves with the energy of visible light or higher, such as ultraviolet light, X-rays, and γ -rays, can also initiate photolysis reactions. Like all other peroxides, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) also consists of a relatively weaker O−O bond, which is susceptible to light or heat. The net equation for the reaction is: 2H2O2⟶2H2O+O2 The step-wise reaction mechanism is suggested as follows (Ref.1): H2O2+hν⟶2HO∙ HO∙+H2O2⟶HO−O∙+H2O HO−O∙+H2O2⟶2HO∙+H2O+O2 Using isotope studies it was confirmed that the O2 formed is cleanly derived from H2O2 (Ref.2). Notes: The rate increases rapidly in the presence of catalysts such as MnO2 and KI (Ref.2). The rate of decomposition is slow at room temperature, but it increases with temperature. It is believed to be due to thermal decomposition of H2O2, which seemingly accelerates the photolysis (Ref.3). References: 1.J. P. Hunt, H. Taube, “The Photochemical Decomposition of Hydrogen Peroxide. Quantum Yields, Tracer and Fractionation Effects,” J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1952, 74(23), 5999–6002 (https://doi.org/10.1021/ja01143a052). 2.A. E. Cahill, H. Taube, “The Use of Heavy Oxygen in the Study of Reactions of Hydrogen Peroxide,” J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1952, 74(9), 2312–2318 (https://doi.org/10.1021/ja01129a042). 3.F. O. Rice, M. L. Kilpatrick, “The Photochemical Decomposition of Hydrogen Peroxide Solutions,” J. Phys. Chem. 1927, 31(10), 1507–1510 (https://doi.org/10.1021/j150280a004). Interestingly, as early as 1934 Haber and Weiss (Ref. 1) proposed that HO2∙ is formed in the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. The subsequent reaction of the transient superoxide radical anion with hydrogen peroxide has been determined to also form the hydroxyl radical (Ref. 2). The higher pH version of the last reaction is, therefore, best represented as: O2∙−+H2O2⟶2HO∙+OH−+O2 And as H++OH−=H2O, the net product formation is not altered. However, alkaline H2O2 is well known to be less stable than acidic hydrogen peroxide (Ref.3) even in absence of light exposure, which accelerates its decomposition (which can involve radical pathways) liberating oxygen! References: 1.Haber Fritz and Weiss Joseph, 1934, The catalytic decomposition of hydrogen peroxide by iron salts. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 147: 332–351 http://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1934.0221 2.TOSHIHIKO OZAWA, AKIRA HANAKI, Reactions of Superoxide with Water and with Hydrogen Peroxide, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 1981, Volume 29, Issue 4, Pages 926-928. https://doi.org/10.1248/cpb.29.926 3.https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Effect-of-pH-on-the-decomposition-of-hydrogen-peroxide-H-2-O-2-0-800-mg-l_fig1_234110563, from Yazıcı, Ersin & Deveci, Haci. (2010). Factors Affecting Decomposition of Hydrogen Peroxide. https://doi.org/10.13140/RG.2.1.1530.0648.
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@Adm023
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Ojalá pueda revegetarla así hago una buena madre e revegetando muchas pero aveces no me sale tengo varias madres
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@Roberts
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Green Cure cbd auto has been doing some stretching this week. Everything has been doing good. I started to shift her feed to a blooming mixture. I have been feeding her twice a day to keep her wet. I did trim out some of the bottom growth. Everything is going great. Thanks again Medic Grow, and Zamnesia seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Que hay familia, actualizo la cuarta semana de floración de estas Runtz F1 automáticas de Zamnesia. Vaya liada de floración, me salió en este indoor una plaga de trips y los 5 ejemplares están picados, ya traté las plantas esta semana, añadí aceite de neem en la tierra, rocié un insecticida y añadí tiras azules, veremos esta próxima semana si ya erradique este inconveniente. Empiezo por supuesto abonando una pequeña cantidad de la gama Agrobeta. La temperatura está 25 grados y la humedad anda entorno al 50%. Riego cada 48 horas. Hasta aquí es todo estas próximas semanas veremos cómo van avanzando. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.
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Привет друзья. Наше знакомства продолжается с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт ORIGINAL AUTO CHEMZKITTLEZ F1 reg. Сегодня растению 58 дней. Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается. Шишки наливаются😀 Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀
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@Kushizlez
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Day 70-77 (Day 71) Not exactly sure why but node spacing on bbb 6&7 is super tight still. Their stems are also harder and less bendy, almost like they’re root bound. Bbb #5 in my veg tent is looking bizarre and I’m at a loss for what to do. I’ve been looking up and asking around about the leaf crinkle and no one seems to know what’s wrong. Trashing a pheno of this would hurt. It could be a keeper too as I don’t think the problem is genetic. It’s definitely root bound but that doesn’t cause contorted new growth like that. I’ve concluded that it’s my dense soil coupled with root bound issues, overwatering and high RH. (Day 72) Later tonight I’m going to give bbb 5 a bath tub flush until it’s reading 200ppms, drain it well and then transplant into a 3g pot with lightly amended soil. I’m also going to give it a light defoliation. I don’t mind stressing the shit out of this plant right now because I won’t be flipping for another week at least. With the small container it will run out of amended nutes mid flower so I will hit it with a few synthetic feedings around then to test out the smokabilty and taste compared to organic nutrients. I might as well give the rest a good defoliation on the rest of the plants too. I will try to get most of what is under the trellis. (Day 73) I definitely defoliated #7 waaay too much. Since it’s tucked away in the corner and a really bushy plant I can’t train it as well as the others. I cut most of the sucker branches and the majority of the lower fans. This should prevent the need to defoliate at all until week 3 of flower. (Day 74) I’ve been reading that higher temperatures with a high RH can affect growth big time. It could be what’s causing all the crinkling and twisting. And now that the plants are in very late veg they could probably benefit from a lower RH. When I was running my temps around 74-78F and 70% RH I was in the perfect range. Now that I’m around 82-86F with the same 70% RH that could be what’s causing it. Hotter air holds more moisture than cooler air and proper vpd at 84F is around 75-80%. I’m going to turn up the speed on my carbon filter and set my controller to 75%. If I don’t see a difference or it gets worse I will drop to 65 and go from there. (Day 76) I finally got the lights raised up another 4 inches or so. It’s not much but it should help reduce the intensity and stretch the nodes more. I’m starting to think the super tight node spacing and droopy/contorted growth has more to do with something I’ve been reading about called ‘soil compaction’. Apparently farmers often deal with compacted soil in fields from running tractors over it all day. When I potted the plants I gave them a good little jiggle to compact the soil down further so I could fit a bit more in the container. I think this could be the culprit as they don’t seem to be drying out evenly. Even the plants in my other room are not drying out like they should and it’s probably from compacting too. With the addition of rock dust and dry amendments the soil can become sandy/clay like and retain a lot more moisture. Wish I would have added a few more liters of perlite and packed the soil a bit looser. Either way I need to get this problem sorted ASAP before I get root rot. Earlier in the season when I overwatered, I stuck a fish tank air pump into the soil and it aerated the soil enough to prevent overwatering. The only reason I discontinued it is because it didn’t have much effect in the 1.7g pots. I just ordered a 36w 6 way fish tank pump that is way more powerful. It was 50 bucks and I’m willing to take a gamble on it. It seems to be my only option at the moment because I can’t just repot. Worst case scenario I can use it for brewing compost teas if it doesn’t work. I’m not sure how well this will work in a giant fabric pot but it’s worth a shot. I’ve heard of people supplementing additional air into raised garden beds with great results. I’m picking off some of the new auxiliary branches to try and widen the node spacing. Growth is definitely slow and stunted but no signs of deficiencies. I just thought of another theory on the node spacing... and the more I think about it, the more I think it’s the mystery problem. I’ve been foliar spraying with 1-1-1 VeloKelp at pretty high concentrations 2-3 times per week. I have heard in passing that kelp and seaweed can somehow reduce stretch. A quick google search reveals that Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed and other marine algae extracts contain large amounts of hormones and auxins that reduce plant height and stretch. *facepalm* Guess I’ll stop that for the rest of the cycle. As far as I know there is nothing I can really do but wait for the plant to use up all those excess hormones and nutes. The recent 0-0-15 seaweed extract and 1-0-3 kelp meal I bought is derived from the same kind as the velokelp. I guess I won’t use it again until week 3 or 4 in flower. Tight nodes are very useful in flower but aren’t desirable at all in when trying to scrog in veg. Especially when they’re like a half inch apart. It slows the shit out of a grow. Vietnamese and biker gangs in my area used to grow SOG style and use a synthetic PGR hormone (meant for bonsai trees) called ‘paclobutrazol’ that would make the weed rock hard dense so they wouldn’t have to pay people as much to trim it. I’ve heard that in recent years they have made the switch to using kelp extracts because paclo is getting harder find and is not meant for food crops let alone smokeable crops. I’m ashamed of it but I have smoked pounds of PGR weed long before I knew what a PGR was. 🤷‍♂️ (Day 77) One more theory. Ever since raising up the plants up onto that shelf the root zone is probably significantly warmer and the bottom of the pot (where most of the roots are) drys out way quicker. It’s possible that the warmer root zone could not be holding dissolved oxygen at the proper rate resulting in that over/underwatered look. Or it could be that I’m not watering enough at once to reach the bottom of the pot where the roots are and it’s indeed under watered. I’m going to water in a gallon when I get my new air pump and see if that makes any positive change. If I see the new air pump making a difference, I will flip on the 21st of April. If I don’t see a difference, I will carefully untangle the plants from the scrog net and remove the shelf. That extra foot should make a massive difference with ppfd and will cool down the roots significantly too. I’m thinking about grabbing a simple soil/compost thermometer to check the temp of the medium. Better safe than sorry. Rough week. Hopefully everything get smoothed out in the next little while before I flip.
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Aloha Freunde der Sonne 😊 Obwohl die Mädels immer noch kein Dünger bekommen haben, geht es Ihnen so gut wie noch nie. Sie fühlen sich mehr als wohl bei mir. Viel Spaß🙏
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@GrowGuy97
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Frosty Frosty Frosty! To be a bunch of bag seeds I am beyond happy so far! Have not had very many problems, they have been great with LST and defoliation!
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Only watering now. She is so close, just waiting for a few more ambers. No purple colours like last time but smells the same for sure. So many crystals on here.
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So got the net in place this week and started doing my ScrOG. Also did a bit of FIMing and some LST to help speed things up a bit. So far the weaving hasn't been as easy as I was told it be some ive been using some soft twist ties to help keep them in place. Going to veg and weave for another week or so before I switch it to flower. I was told you have to continue weaving for 2-3 weeks into flower but im worried that'll stress the plant out so if anyone that reads this knows other wise, comment below. Increased the feed from 1 liter to 2 liters because I wasn't getting any run off. Now I'm getting 10% run off every watering and I've been able to keep my run off ppm to less then 100 ppm above feed. So far I'm really like working with coco and don't see myself going back to soil unless it's outside plants. The environment has been fairly stable the last week with outside temperature droping. Had a spike in humidity yesterday because it got up to 75% humidity outside where I live. Luckly when that happened my tent only went up to roughly 67% but it's slowly dropped down and then stopped at 62%. There calling for another heat wave this week with it reaching up to almost 40c again for a couple days.... can not wait for summer to be over. I'm a ginger so I'm more of a autumn and spring kind of guy and plus this heat is making it difficult not only for this plant but also the ones I started seeding a few weeks back. Got so hot that they stopped growing for 3 days, 2 died and 3 got burned a bit. So far this 300w SE-3000 Spider-Farmer light is really rocking it. Great coverage, adjustable and detachable ballast have made this a easy grow even with the mad heat. Definitely going to look at the SE-5000 light that runs at 450w or the SE-7000 light that runs at 650w for my next light in the 4x4 tent. Next go around I'm going to try this light in a 2x2 tent I have that I use for germinating. Well that's all for now so happy growing everyone.
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This has got to be one of the best Plants i have ever grown. The Taste and Sweet smell is like A Starburst . Cherry , ice cream . Buzz is Smooth And very high but mellow . 10/10 👌
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I just entered flowering stage, I switched to the bloom nutrients and I've stopped putting Rhino Skin like 2weeks ago and now am adding NIRVANA to help with the phosphorus I've also gave them a well needed defoliation try to focus all the energy in the pistils I've dropped my lights as well and my I've been keeping an eye for my temp. Don't want it to go above 80° The order am mixing my nutrients are: •hydroguard •Nirvana •CalMag •Bloom A •Bloom B • pH balance to 5.8 So far their pryin' up wards after I dropped the lights the seem to respond well.