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Siga meu perfil, deixe seu like, comentário ou pergunta, ficarei feliz em ajudar se puder. Mais uma semana tranquila, sem grandes mudanças nos parâmetros de temperatura e umidade, ph ou EC Aparentemente as plantas gostaram do ajuste na nutrição, seguirei acompanhando, estamos chegando na reta final e não vejo a hora da colheita! Siga também meu Instagram @CasadasarvoresGrow

Everything looks awesome while still wet. Lets wait two weeks then we know the dry weight.

Alles perfekt

Week 8 Flower Flush flush flush 💦🚽💦🚽💦 It's extremely important to flush for at least 14 days when using synthetic nutes, or any bottled nutes in my opinion. The aim is to make her cannibalize (fade) as much as possible before she's chopped. By doing this, she's using up her stored nutrients, causing the leaves to eventually die. The better the flush the cleaner the smoke 👌💨 even when in an organic set up, the plant needs to be nicely faded before being harvested. Otherwise she's still full of nutrients. I still feel I'll be able to get an even better flush when I eventually make the switch to RO water, as my tap water holds a ppm value of approx 150. It's not too much, but 0 is always better. She was taken down on Day 57 flower, after a 16 Day flush. I didn't want to take her any further as she was quite stressed being so close to the light. So to avoid getting seeds I waited until she had a beautiful fade before giving her the chop ✂️ I always take my girls down about 30mins before the light turns on so there is minimal chlorophyll production in the plant. This is to ensure the best smell, taste and overall burn after drying and curing. A subtle but very sweet-ish tropical fruit skin kind of smell to her. Her buds are super dense and covered in trichomes. I trimmed off all fan leaves and then each branch was hung in my drying box and placed in a cool area. She was dry after 6 days and ready to be dry trimmed and jarred for curing. I'll post those pics with the harvest update! Thanks for following and happy growing! 🐺

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Well growmies we are at 42 days in and everything is going as good as can be 👌 👉 Sadly I'm thinking I may have something wrong with my Medium as i am having issues with all my girls this time around👍 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Everything is not as accurate as I would like to say, but I wanted you guys to see what I can do

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Defoliated her once again. A little LST as she takes her final shape.

Things did'nt go as planned. I decided to harvest her this week, she was 7weeks in to flowering and looked allready good. The forecast predicted some stormy weather for the next week and i did'nt want to take the risk to get her destroyed because of the weater or deseases. besides that she had 40% of orange growhairs and milky trichomes. If the weather was going to be better i would have let her life a week or 2 longer. update: We are one month after harvest the buds are dry and have been (or are still) curing. Its allready pretty smokeable! 'best homegrown I ever had' is a frequent comment when i let others taste the buds.

semana de riego y nada más. me encanta cultivar en esta época del año. Cierto que el coste de luz es mayor al tener los calefactores pero me ahorro los tratamientos y el trabajo que suponen los bichos, araña trips mosca etc etc .Este cultivo solo me lleva una de solabiol como preventivo que fue en crecimiento. de lujo.

they are all growing great and starting to get taller. a very robust plant and very easy to grow and maintain. they are getiing 1/2 the recommeneded dose of nutrients 3 times a week

hey growmies I decided to switch to flowering, I am using ADV nutes with the dosage recommended by them and they seem to me in great shape, tonight I will do a defoliation in order to breathe better and get as much light as possible. I'll keep you up-to-date. good growth and happy day 💚🌳

19.07.21 Anfang der 4 blüte Woche alles läuft soweit OK hab die Lampe heut wieder 3cm höher gehängt da einige Blatt spitzen anfangen zu verblassen denke mal das das Licht zu intensiv war, hoffe natürlich das ich die Ladys nicht über düngt habe. Hab auch die bloom dosis um 1ml/L herabgesetzt also jetzt nur noch 3ml/L anstatt maximaldosis 4ml/L. Blätter von den gegenüberliegenden buds fern halten war heut auch wieder angesagt und unterm netz halten sowieso...... 20.04.21 wie gedacht hatte meine Pflanze Licht stress glaub ich zumindest die oberen Blätter sind heller geworden aber jetzt fängt sie auch noch an ihre Zähne am Rand der Blätter hoch zu Rollen glaube das ist überdüngung Hab es mal wieder übertrieben...... 21.04.21 danke erstmal an alle die mir so schnell auf mein Hilfe gesuch geantwortet haben. Ich hab mir diesbezüglich meine Gedanken gemacht und mich entschlossen das ich den Dünger wieder runter schraube da ich ja auf gut abgestimmter Erde und nicht auf coco züchte sollte ich wohl eher weniger benutzen dessen bin ich mir jetzt bewusst geworden (hätte ich auch selbst drauf kommen können ich dussel). Die Lampe lasse ich jetzt auf 30cm Abstand da ich nicht das Gefühl habe das nach 2 Tagen 30cm das verblassen weiter fort schreitet (wird aber weiter beobachtet). Morgen ist giessen dran werde dann nur Wasser mit green sensation geben und beim nächsten giessen dann wieder mit minimal Düngung weiter machen um die Pflanzen nicht zu sehr zu stressen.... 22.04.21 hab heute gegossen und auf dünger verzichtet soweit bis auf Green sensation 1ml/L und hab nochmal drüber nachgedacht wann das Problem mit den hoch rollenden Zähnen der Blätter anfing das war nach dem letzten giessen 2tage später nach dem ich wieder sugar royal gegeben hatte hätte den wohl lieber wieder weiter unten anordnen sollen von der menge her naja ich lerne dazu Fehler müssen sein sonnst hätte ich ja nix zum lernen is ja auch langweilig...... 23.04.21 glaube die Ladys mästen sich jetzt da wo gestern noch minimale Lücken an den buds waren sind jetzt keine mehr das Wachstum is eingestellt seid 4 Tagen kam nix mehr an Höhe dazu. Ab jetzt kann sie Dann auch Figur an nehmen und ordentlich Gewicht zu legen hoffe es geht weiterhin so gut voran bis jetzt bin ich mega glücklich das es so gut klappt Ach ja und das Blätter runter schieben unters netz hab ich jetzt ein gestellt es wird einfach zu klebrig da zwischen den buds und ich will die trichom Köpfe nicht permanent berühren, nicht das ich noch irgendeine krankheit mit an schleppe oder andere Keime bzw. Beschädigungen anrichte an den Köpfen (ich desinfizieren meine Hände immer gründlich bevor ich an den Pflanzen hand anlege meistens doppelt und dreifach, hab aber trotzdem schiss man Weiss ja nie was so an Bakterien und keimen überlebt)..... 24.04.21 hab heute nix ich wiederhole NIX gemacht an den Pflanzen war einfach zu faul war sogar zu faul zwischen durch mal zu schauen was die Temps und die Feuchtigkeit so machen deshalb kann ich heute nicht viel erzählen....... 25.04.21 diese woche lief auch wieder garnicht mal so schlecht ich bin echt erstaunt darüber das die Pflanzen so gut voran schreiten drückt mir die Daumen das das so bleibt.......

Northern Lights is really starting to take off. She's growing so fast, and her leaves are finally getting that deep, dark green color I love. I can almost imagine her soaking up all that beautiful sunlight. I think I'll need to repot her soon, this pot's looking a little cramped. I can't wait to see how big she gets by the end of the summer!

J50 arrosage avec engrais. J52 arrosage eau. J54 arrosage avec engrais.

Ladies have taken off! Finished week 2 with no issues in sight. I’ve been working my yoga poses to get under the scrog to clean and spray some essential oils for pest management. Also added some sticky traps, haven’t seen anything, not even a gnat, but can’t be too careful this time of year. I’ve been pushing her nutrients and got close to 1100 ppm, some slight burn at the tips was noticeable, but nothing else. Did some defoliation and the smells are strong! Perfect terp profile that I’m looking for, Gas, funk and skunk 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨 Happy Growing!

Absolutely satisfied with the germination rate 6/6. Had a few helmet heads that will hopefully resolve themselves. Excited for this run!