TANGERINE DREAM™️ is an sativa dominant strain that offers tangy Tangerine aromas and flavours, giving an instant relaxing and cerebral high. Colas grow large and heavy, beautifully coated with red and orange trichomes.

End of Blooming.. Time to flushing..

Day 70. Watered with heavy nutes last Wednesday and just water today... Just wanna give em a little break and see... The super silver haze is pretty much done. Will wait another week to get more Amber just a few seen atm. The main cola must be 10 grams alone... Bets are on! Definitely doing 100% better then last time... Guessing going to be 20/25 grams dry compared to last grow.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hi everyone :-) . The seedling has developed well so far :-) Nice thick leaves like the last phenotype of the banana. I trained her for the first time this week (topping). It was poured twice this week with 1l each (for nutrients, see nutrient table). The tent was cleaned and the lady's health was checked. Have fun with the update. Let it grow. You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com Type: Banana ☝️🏼 Genetics: OG Kush x unkown 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Growth still slow. LST started in earnest, I didn't fill the soil high enough in the pot so the pot flexes too much to pull the stems down. Note to self, fill the pot more next time. Flowering has started!

Another round of topping. Tied her all back to spread out for LST. Going to flip to flower next week. Used the Kushman technique and Supercropped all her stems every inch on the way up, without bending. Gives her muscles to flex <3

Little defoliation at day 20 Tied down branches at day 20 Growing very Easy Just fed her with top veg and roots from TOP CROP

More training with clips.

Day 29 Mon Refresh water and add nuts 10 L PH 5.8 EC 1.1 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 20c Day 30 Thu PH 6.5/5.8 EC 1.1 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 20c Day 31 Wed Add water PH 6.5/5.8 EC 1.3/0.9 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 19c Day 33 Fri PH 5.9 EC 0.9 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 21c Day 34 Sat Add water PH 5.5/5.7 EC 1.0/0.9 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 18c Day 35 Sun Add soda bicarbonate for Ph-up PH 4.8/5.8 EC 0.9 DLI /13h/ PPFD/ Water 18c

As you can see, we might have a couple weeks left She's startin a pack on some serious weight up top.. I i've been giving hers the green sensation by Plagron nutrients and as you can see, she's got a big old top.. Every bit of a foot plus... Hope everyone is doing well, shout out to Zamnesia Seeds.. Hope this is a good one.God bless and happy growing ✌️

Esta semana hubo un crecimiento muy acelerado. Estoy manejando la altura de las plantas con HST y corte, esperando a una nueva que agregué, para que empiece a estirarse. Cuando tenga la altura de las otras plantas, paso todo a floración. Estuve cortando los bajos de algunas plantas. Otras las estoy dejando crecer un poco para hacer nuevos esquejes. La solución se mantienen las mismas proporciones. Voy a ir actualizando la semana con fotos diarias, para tener una referencia del crecimiento. Día 16. El crecimiento es increíblemente rápido. Estoy aplicando cortes y super cropping porque quiero lograr plantas bien fuertes y bajas. Además quiero aprovechar la superficie de cultivo lo mejor posible. Por lo que voy a hacer varias cabezas por planta, y voy a intentar darles bastante crecimiento para que den más producción. Iré actualizando. Día 19. Se aplica bioestimulante Aux ym foliar. 2ml/l. Ya preparando para pasar a flora en 10 días. Prendí una de las luces laterales par darle más luz a la pequeña Jamaican Dream de prueba que hay en la punta. Día 20. Mañana se cambia la solución. Las plantas estan creciendo mucho. Voy guiando algunas ramas para que queden todas a la misma altura. La pequeña tiene toda esta semana para pegar el estirón final antes de pasar a flora. Confío en que va a llegar porque es sativa 90% a diferencia de sus vecinas 80% indicas. De todos modos me voy a concentrar en las Green Tiger, ya que este diario está dedicado a ellas principalmente.

las plantas siguen con su bloque o carencia pero ya esto se termina en nada , tienen muy buenos olores dulces y flores apretadas me gusta este cultivo y son semillas de granel baratas y con agua dura ,alguna semilla de mas calidad y agua bien controlada de ec pueden salir cosas buenas en 11L

Another week has flown by! The girls are doing great, cruise control this week as I have just been monitoring RH and temps. Trying to keep them as low as possible, I’ve been getting as low as 74 during the day and 68 at night. I finally took a look a look at the trichomes with my jewellers loop, lots of cloudy, and a few amber around the leaves and top colas, but still lot’s of clear trichomes. I’ve ordered myself a wireless/usb digital microscope to assist with the process, and looks like it will be here just in time to determine harvest day. 😎🎄 I started by eliminating the nutrients at the beginning of the week. I typically allow for 3-4 pure water feeds before I harvest, and at the rate they have been drinking, this should be enough to get through the 7-12 days they have before harvest. I don’t flush, but rather “rinse” with normal water amounts, allowing the plant to use up the remaining nutrients in the soil. This also allows me to recover most of the soil from my grows and reuse ♻️ with other soil mix. There has been great debate and a great deal of bro science out there for many years, but the recent studies suggest there is no difference in end result when it comes to flushing or using nutrients right until the end, if a proper dry and cure is performed. What do you think? What do you prefer to do? Thanks for reading this far, leave me a comment with your preferred method 👊🇨🇦❤️

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Day late on the update, pics/vids were taken on time tho just been a crazy week of harvests and trimming and keeping up with these. I linked up with Rain Science Grow Bags on Instagram and got them to offer all my followers and friends a discount of 10% off entire order from their site with the code ' bangdang ' so if anyone is in the market for a pot upgrade use that code. I got them in the mail 3 days after I ordered. Reason I went with Rain Science is because they offer identical air flow for rapid growth as the radicle bags, just using a different material and a tighter knit so water doesnt flood out the sides during feeds and when you pick these up when the coco is dry, it wont fly all over the tent like with the radicles. They're the optimal bag for autoflowers especially. This one stayed small it got the late transplant and started flowering early but overall is healthy.

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 14 and she's just killing💀it👌 So I'm starting to pull her over and do some low stress training 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Some plants are still flipping over to flower myb 2 weeks behind the dist Bloomer

Grew nicely in the chalice and needed to be watered daily. Produced some beautiful buds and a pretty fat cola. Had no issues I had to worry about and overall grew a lot better than expected!