Tag 85: + Generative Phase III der Canna Dünger Tabelle + Lichtdauer von 16 auf 15 Stunden reduziert. Ein Video und ein paar Bilder für den Größenvergleich . Ich hab versucht so nah wie möglich an die Buds zu kommen ohne das ich die Trichome platt drücke . Ausserdem hatte ich gestern noch etwas Entlaubung betrieben . Tag 86: + 2,25L Flaschenwasser (16:00 Uhr) ++ Dünger Blüte +++ Generative Phase III des Canna Düngeschema Leicht + final PH 6.10 Die Dame war heute Morgen noch fitt und noch Wasser vorhanden , 7 Stunden später war schon ein sichtbarer Wassermangel aufgetreten (Die kleinen Fanblätter hingen schon leicht). Tja so schnell kann es manschmal gehen . Tag 88: + 2,0L Flaschenwasser (16:00 Uhr) ++ Dünger Blüte +++ Generative Phase III des Canna Düngeschema Leicht + final PH 6.00 Tag 89: Tageslicht von 15 auf 14 Stunden reduziert. Tag 90: + 2,0L Flaschenwasser (13:00 Uhr) ++ Dünger Blüte +++ Generative Phase III des Canna Düngeschema Leicht + final PH 6.00 Tageslicht von 14 auf 13 Stunden reduziert. Photos mit Dose zum Größenvergleich !!! Und ein Video !!

Hi Greenies, End of week 4 flowering. Still on track although been unable to replace C02 yet. Plants have been given PK all week on top of normal nuits. Also been doing a bit of leaf tucking for bud sites ( no more defoliation or I will have no plants left..) 💧 Watering: Every fith feed 🌡️ Temp: 24–27°C 💦 Humidity: 60% RH 📈 VPD: ~1.2 kPa 💡 Light: ~850 PPFD

Aug 22 - Aug 28 Week 16 (Day 106-Day 112) The Low Down- Plants responded well to the Advanced Nutrients I watered with a couple of days ago. By 'responded well' I just mean that they didn't yellow or adversely react. I'm still watering 2 gallons per day per plant when I water, but I skipped a day since I don't want to get root rot. Twice before I have had the plants get waterlogged at the bottom of the pot (obviously right =-) ), and I didn't know then that it caused the leaves to yellow from the bottom up. I honestly thought I had nutrient burn. That said, I skipped a day on the watering. I applied kelp meal on day 111. I broke my rule and used Monterey B.T. on day 111. Honestly--I felt scared because I can't inspect the plants everyday so I went for the Monterey b.t. to combat the caterpillars. Not sure if I will apply again since we are in flowering. The Plants- The plants look great and smell great. Thank you EQuillibrium Genetics. Everyday they get a little more aromatic. The smell is somewhere between minty/lemony/orangey and some bomb ass weed. Will definitely hit. One day I could've sworn it smelled like that Gary Payton weed, basically kushy, citrusy, and a little sour diesely. On DAY 108 in the morning they smelled like orange fanta. Amendments- I applied kelp meal on DAY 111 (Aug 22). The quality has improved in my plants since I started more actively amending the soil a few years back. Before I just used to add that Alaska fish emulsion directly on the soil once a month. Now I use Kelp Meal from Down-to-Earth and the Bud Candy and Overdrive from Advanced Nutrients. I even used some cha-ching from Fox Farms at the end of last season. I don't start adding anything until at least a month or two into the grow because the soils I use already come amended. I also continue using the soil year after year. I take all the soil at the end of the year and place it on a tarp. Then I add perlite, bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal, molasses, coffee grinds, banana peels, egg shells, and mix it all up. I let that sit for a couple of weeks or longer and then start using it on my potted plants in the garden. If I have enough left over after 2 months I will fill up the fabric pots again and plant clover, thyme, and oregano during the off season.

En construction. Le 77e jour Remarque : ...

🇩🇪 26.12. einen Teil der Wurzeln freigelegt und alle Drähte neu gesetzt. Da ich sie zum frei legen vorher alle gelöst hatte um besser an die Erde zu kommen. 23.12. die untersten Blätter entfernt und die treibe frei gelegt. Die kleinen haben inzwischen genug eigene Blätter um weiter zu wachsen. Ab jetzt wird der Haupttrieb einmal im Bogen über sich selbst zurück wachsen.💛✌️ 21.12. läuft weiterhin nach Plan. 🇬🇧 12.26. I exposed part of the roots and re-routed all the wires. I had loosened them all beforehand to get better access to the soil. 12.23. Removed the lowest leaves and exposed the shoots. The little ones now have enough leaves of their own to continue growing. From now on, the main shoot will grow back in an arc over itself. 💛✌️ 12.21. Still going according to plan.

Man, it's been a crazy week. These past few days have been brutal – seriously cold with this crazy humidity. I don't know about you, but I'm sick of the chills and the way my skin feels all sticky. It's been a struggle, but I'm finally getting on top of things. I think I've figured out a good routine to dry things out around here, so hopefully, I'll be feeling a lot more comfortable soon. My Skunk Apple Runtz plant is finally starting to bounce back. The leaves are getting their color back, and it smells fantastic – all thanks to the Ricky Bobby. It's a shame the plant's shape is a little funky, but honestly, I can live with it if it keeps producing that amazing smell.

Flushing

got me lifteeed, got me lifteeeeed!

Heute Blütetag 45 seit Umstellung auf 12/12 Alle Pflanzen sind sehr gesund und riechen wunderbar. Die Papayana werde ich vielleicht sogar als Mutterpflanze behalten, eine herausragende Genetik.

After several days of deep research on the internet, I decided to get myself a small set up (24x24x48 inch tent) to grow cannabis indoor, if this works I will definitely get a bigger setup. NYC Diesel Auto, two girls who sprouted beautifully after using the cup of water and paper towel method. Now I have them on a lightly mixed soil on solo cups (500ml) under a 600W LED light. I am using 1/4 tsp/gal of FloraGro and Micro for now. Using the trio of nutrients from General Hydroponics, FloraGro, Micro and Bloom. Day 2 and one of the two have broken the soil, the other one is MIA...Update: Both girls are out and about! Day 3 to 5 - both girls are coming along just fine. If anyone with more expertise has an explanation for my little girl whos coming along much slower than her big sis, please let me know!! All tips and advice from experienced growers are welcomed!

No problems

Week 28 – Flowering Week 6 This week clearly places the Pineapple Upside Down in the final stretch of its flowering cycle. We are getting close to the end, and expectations regarding yield are now realistic. The plant produced a large number of small buds that never fully developed, which was anticipated considering the difficulties encountered earlier in the grow. Despite this, the run is not a total loss. There will still be material worth harvesting: the best tops will be kept as flower, while lower-quality buds and popcorn will likely be processed later. Trichome development confirms that we are approaching maturity, with most trichomes now appearing cloudy. This indicates that the plant is nearing its harvest window. Nutrition Nutrition was slightly adjusted this week to better match the late flowering stage. Base nutrients were gently reduced: Bloom A and Bloom B were lowered from 2.0 ml/L to 1.5 ml/L. At the same time, PK was increased from 2.5 ml/L to 3.0 ml/L. In practice, part of what was removed from Bloom A and Bloom B was deliberately reallocated to PK. The intention is to support final bud maturation and density, while limiting unnecessary nitrogen intake at this advanced stage of flowering. Nutrition will remain as-is for this week. Starting next week, feeding will be stopped to allow the plant to finish maturing naturally before harvest. Environment & Light Light intensity was intentionally not increased. PPFD remains around 800–900, which is more than sufficient at this stage and helps avoid excess heat in the grow space. No major interventions are planned from here. The strategy is simple: maintain stable conditions, observe closely, and let the plant finish its cycle without stress. See you next week, and take care.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Purple Lemonade FF de Fastbuds. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 Litros, con tierra top crop y plagron mezclada con un poco de coco. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/21 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 100% de potencia. Tengo trips que combatiremos con control biológico ya a estas alturas del cultivo. 1 de 4 salió hermafrodita y quitamos el ejemplar, a ver si me recupero estas próximas semanas y puedo estar al 100%. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

This is where we are at .. I don't know if I should cut the bigger leaves to help with energy 🤔

She finally stopped the stretch and now this tree is going in full flower under the spiderfarmer sf-2000

Another good week! Continued LST. Ph stayed between 6-6.5. It was a muggy week here, and the indoor temps hung between 75-85. Looks like I have lots of flowers to look forward to!

Day 24 - Topped above the 3rd node - Removed the 1st node - Tried out my new diy foggphonic cloner Day 27 - clone looks not brilliant but it still alive, we will see - LST goes on - watering 1,5 L with 2 millionen sf nematoden Day 30 Topped the lower branches