@ 1.5 kPa Plants are really thirsty right now already missed optimal watering windows because of that.

she really started to grow faster as she went into flowering so I kept the canopy level and installing a electric cable around my tent (remember cheap as possible) and using the pipe cleaner

Seeing some tips beginning to burn so I went back down to 1 tsp of the girl's base nutes. Starting to see calyxs and pistils. Also alternate branching is appearing, also signalling that flowering has commenced.

Week 5: Transplant Time & Root Power! Oh man, this was one of those weeks! We transplanted all five phenos into bigger pots, and let me tell you, they’re thriving! (Check out the complete video episode for all the details 😉). The girls are looking amazing, all pretty much the same size for now, so I don’t have any favorites yet—but let’s see what the future holds! For photos, I used both my Nikon P900 and Sony A6000, with a bunch of lenses and filters to preserve the true colors—these LEDs are powerful! Current Setup & Conditions This week, they’re still chilling with their sisters in the big tent, but in about a week, they’ll be moving into the TrolMaster ecosystem for even better environmental control. Watering: pH 6.06, EC 0.96 Temperature: A bit cold , but it is what it is. We’re facing some freezing outdoor temps (as shown last week in the frosty veggie garden pics!), yet these Runtz are holding strong like true champions. 💪❄️ Nutrition: Still on the Aptus Clean Program, with: Regulator System Clean RO Water Conditioner All-in-One Liquid Root Development: The Real MVP! Let’s go deep on roots! The mycorrhizae in the Pro-Mix soil has been working its magic, and I’m still boosting them further with a touch of Aptus Holland Mycor Mix. The root development on this transplant was insane—super white, healthy, and ready to explode with growth. What Are Mycorrhizae? The word “mycorrhiza” comes from Greek: • Myco- meaning fungus • Rhiza- meaning root Mycorrhizae are a type of beneficial fungi that form a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with plant roots. These fungi extend far beyond the root zone, creating an underground network that helps plants absorb water, nutrients, and improve overall health. This is not a single species but rather a whole category of fungi, mainly divided into: 1. Ectomycorrhizae – Live on the outside of plant roots, forming a sheath around them. Common in trees like pines and oaks. 2. Endomycorrhizae (Arbuscular Mycorrhizae, AMF) – The most beneficial for most crops and cannabis. These penetrate root cells, forming structures inside the roots that exchange nutrients. Where Are Mycorrhizae Found in Nature? Mycorrhizae naturally occur in forests, grasslands, and undisturbed soils worldwide. They play a crucial role in maintaining ecosystem balance by helping plants access nutrients from the soil. In a natural environment, plants are constantly forming relationships with these fungi. However, in modern agriculture, excessive tilling, chemical fertilizers, and fungicides have reduced their populations, making supplementation necessary in many cases. How Do Mycorrhizae Work? Once mycorrhizae colonize a plant’s roots, they start forming an underground fungal network called the mycelium. This network extends the plant’s reach into the soil, acting as a second root system. Benefits of Mycorrhizae: ✅ Enhanced Nutrient Uptake – Mycorrhizae help plants absorb phosphorus, nitrogen, and micronutrients that would otherwise be unavailable. ✅ Improved Water Absorption – The fungal network can reach deeper into the soil than roots alone, helping plants survive drought conditions. ✅ Stronger, Healthier Roots – They promote thicker, more robust root systems, reducing transplant shock. ✅ Better Soil Structure – They produce glomalin, a protein that improves soil aggregation and helps retain moisture. ✅ Natural Pest & Disease Resistance – Healthy plants with strong mycorrhizal relationships tend to be more resistant to soil-borne pathogens. How Mycorrhizae Help in Cannabis & Gardening In controlled growing environments, using mycorrhizae is a game-changer. Since cannabis relies heavily on phosphorus, the enhanced nutrient uptake provided by mycorrhizae is especially beneficial. Best ways to apply mycorrhizae: • At transplant – Dust roots with mycorrhizae powder or mix into soil. • As a soil drench – Some liquid formulations allow fungi to colonize even after planting. • Mix into your growing medium – Using pre-amended soil like Pro-Mix HP Mycorrhizae ensures roots have early access. Pro Tip: Mycorrhizae need living roots to survive! Avoid using synthetic fungicides or excessive chemical fertilizers, as they can kill the fungi. Think of mycorrhizae as a natural root booster. They’ve been around for hundreds of millions of years, helping plants thrive in all conditions. By using them in cultivation, you’re mimicking nature, ensuring your plants grow stronger, healthier, and more resilient. When used correctly, mycorrhizae can increase yields, improve plant health, and reduce the need for synthetic inputs—making them a must-have for any serious grower! Can’t wait to see how they’ll look in the next transplant! I made a few changes to my improvised photo studio, including a pink background for now—because why not? Let’s keep things fun and full of color! 🌸📸 Massive gratitude to all our sponsors and of course, a special shoutout to Zamnesia, Plagron, and Grow Diaries for making this amazing cup happen. 🙌 And to the community—followers, supporters, lovers, haters—I love you all! ❤️ Let’s keep pushing forward, learning, and making this grow legendary! Stay Tuned for More! Next week, i may be moving them into bigger pots and getting them into their final environment. You won’t want to miss this next stage! See you all next week—stay tuned, keep growing, good luck to all and let’s make history together! 🚀🌱 Genetics - Runtz https://www.zamnesia.com/6000-zamnesia-seeds-runtz-feminized.html Nutrients - Plagron https://plagron.com/en/hobby - Aptus Holland https://aptus-holland.com/ Controls - Trol MAster https://www.trolmaster.eu/ LED - https://www.futureofgrow.com/en LED - https://www.thinkgrowled.com Soil - https://www.promixgardening.com/en Germination - Cannakan https://cannakan.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopXr-inLXajXu3QFgKXCXXos4F1oEvScjMKIB5MR5dk8-GJ-F49 DOGDOCTOR 15% off Smoking Papers - https://ziggioriginal.com/ Terpene saver - https://grovebags.com/ As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciloved and i fell honored with you all in my life With true love comes happiness Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. The journey with nature is one of discovery, creativity, and respect. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together! Growers Love To you All 💚 #EternityGrowCup #RuntzHunt #GrowersLove #CannabisCommunity #AptusHolland #ProMixSoil #TrolMaster #Zamnesia #Plagron #ZiggiPapers #Grovebags

Installation et essai de la tente de culture.

Leider mittlerweile gezwungen je nach Tages Temperatur zwischen 80-60% Leistung vom LED Licht. Um unter 30C° Grad zu bleiben Tagsüber. Ansonsten calmag problemle habe jetzt BioBizz durch Canna Calmag Agent ersetzt. Ansonsten bin ich zufrieden. Vermute das mein PH wert etwas zu niedrig ist aber 2 Wochen vor Ende/ernte mach ich mich nicht verrückt sie gehen auf ihr Ende zu trotzdem will man das die Damen immer Kern gesund aussehen;) Habe Ende der 6 Woche Mars Hydro Adlite 660nm Deep Red installiert

So I had a few issue. I over watered early on, took them out the seed tray early, started feeding them a week or two late, no humidifier yet but they recovered well.

Así es como empezamos la tercera semana,seguimos con humedad alta pero la vamos controlando.. Estos días da buen tiempo la humedad en la calle será mucho más baja así podré meter aire sin tanta humedad.. De momento todo bien en el cultivo ningún problema hasta la fecha. Ya podéis ver,y comentar sobre algo que veáis que yo no! Como dicen! Ven veinte ojos mejor que dos! 🖖 Día 12 Último fungicida prevención mutritis,hongos humedad. Primer riego foliar hormonas producción de flores. 🌹 Día 13 Nada en especial solo observar si veo algún cambio tras las hormonas,aún no veo grandes observaciones fuera de lo natural del paso de los días. En el día de mañana por lo que me recomendó el fabricante se verán los resultados a la vista! Comentar que seguimos con la iluminación al 100x100 de capacidad Marshydro sp3000 x2 Hero led Ignator t720 Yxo led 60w ir+un espectro completo En la siguiente semana me llega el nuevo driver de philips para poder conectar la lámpara de IR que pude adquirir a Yxo nuevamente! Lampara led espectro completo + IR 70w . Me vendrá muy bien para el pequeño espacio de la puerta que necesita más iluminación para poder desarrollar bien esas dos plantas,de la entrada. La humedad fue cosa del pasado. Evite el uso de desumificador eléctrico añadiendo varios de sales,deciros que funcionan muy bien no dan un control exacto pero mantienen una humedad interior estable para todo el periodo de floración! 50% de humedad lo demuestra! Hoy añadi un poco más de sustrato. 110 litros exactamente sobre la cama de cultivo que tenía de topcrop con humus de lombriz,tierra diatomeas y alimentada con npk. Después de eso tengo en mi cama de cultivo 810 litros de sustrato para mis 44haze. 💐 Saludos Día 14 Anulado el intractor,ya que el propio extractor mete aire fresco por las rendijas de ventilación.. En lo largo de la noche iré viendo el resultado en datos.. Ya coloque los soportes para la nueva iluminación que en estos días llega su driver de sustitución E visto que algunas plantas en estos dos días están en 67-70cm.. Ya colocado el sistema de riego para evitar más pisadas en el cultivo ya que algunas se realentizaron por pisar encima de sus raíces.. Le e metido una pequeña poda de bajos para airear más la zonas bajas del cultivo. Pequeño riego de folacion con remedio de agua azúcar para dos que estaban más estresadas. Día 15 Hoy era día de regar pero el sustrato aún parece húmedo en gran proporción aplazare el riego. Día 16 Hoy me acerqué a ver las niñas en caso de que necesitaran algo.. Se ve todo correcto parece que no tienen mucha sed.. llevamos todo el día de alta humedad y lluvia en el exterior.. Las dejaré hoy sin riego también. El sustrato está bien alimentado. Mañana seguramente se presente el armario con una plantación pidiendo agua a gritos!! Jejeje.. así comerán con más ganas!,veremos qué tal.. Dia 17 Perfecto,las plantas se han mantenido muy bien para estar el sustrato ,prácticamente casi seco.. Se le aplicaron 32litros a la cama de sustrato con el riego de goteo Y la humedad se ha mantenido bastante bien . Una vez termine el riego la temperatura en el armario cayó considerablemente,llegando este a 16 grados. Una vez se cierra todo vuelve a sus parámetros controlados de 23/24 grados. Día 18 Hoy es el quinto día de la tercera semana,aplique el riego ayer en proporción de 850ml por planta. La humedad subió por unas horas a 62% Después de las 24 horas del riego el área se encuentra en un 55%.. esta noche llegará a el valor determinado de 48/50 Las plantas están desarrollando las formaciones de flores muy rápido! En unas semanas veremos!

Germination

Привет друзья. Наше знакомства продолжается с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт TROPICANNA POISONZKITTLEZ XL AUTO F1 reg. Сегодня растению 66 дней. Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается. Шишки наливаются😀 Так же стрессую, что бы получить пыльцу. Скоро будут феминизированные растения. Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

👇 This week: --- Watering 1l every day. Some phenos need more PPFD at canopy height approximately 800-850 (Increase slowly), VPD ~1.2 Big defoliation, stretch coming to the end Orange Creampop #2 HLVd test came negative Next week: Lollipopping, compost tea, defoliation --- Happy growing and thanks for checking out my report! I really appreciate you! 😁💪🙏

Grow diary 11 Stage 1 Days 1-10 By day 4 all was looking good, she had a few roots coming out the bottom of the cube. Day 6 I transplanted her to the 3 inch rockwool cubes that had been soaked for 15 mins in this stage nutrient solution and left to drain for 15 mins, then she went into the bigger propagator. Day 10 she had roots coming out the bottom of the 3 inch cube. Over the last few days she has been getting more exposure to the fan, with the lid of the propagator the humidity is on the low side, but i want to get some air movement around her. She has grown o.k over the last 10 days. She looks healthy enough and is where I would expect her to be in growth. Temp Max 30.6c Avg 26.6c Min 21.2c Humid Max 85% Avg 69.7c Min 45.7% VPD Max 1.86 Avg 1.03 Min 0.44 Hopefully back in 10 days.

8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Green crack is looking stunning coming down the home stretch now . Same same this week then I’ll taper off the nutes into a flush next week . 2 weeks to the chop . I’ve been smoking a bit of this , it’s sensational.

Day 36 - 42 So fun to see her little flowers!! Everyday they are becoming bigger and noticeable. I am keeping the nutrients same as past week. I hope she is happy!