Hab ein wenig umgetopft gebunden mit Bio bizz gedüngt 75% nach Plan 10% drain . Ph hab ich mit ta ph - Dazu gab's ein wenig Magnesium kalk

Keeping humidity at 40% now

WEEK #15 — FIRST SIGNS OF FROST Most „Standard“ Week so far, i guess. A Little grow, a little leaves removed (that shadowed other Branches), Water Water — same same all week. The only new thing: A Little smell. Slush Mint cake very fresh and fruity (had the Impression of a light menthol Impression in the air a few times). Skywalker like lemon-soapy Style. Looking forward to how it will develop individually. The Look: another clear difference is the appearance. SMC is very flat (like really flat), very dense, but mostly with distance between buds. Skywalker rather normal, but also dense. Both have „breakout“ Kolas, canopy rather uneven, so light Distribution not that great. Well, LED aint the sun, hu? BUT: The underdog, Mint Cake, has the most frostied leaves, covered in trichomes. From shaft to the tip, ALL of them, what makes them appear light green, although the leaves are rather dark. Hope this will develop Even further, very impressive so far. First few pistills turning brown already, However according to Dutch Passion, bloom is 8-9 weeks for SMC and 9-10 Weeks for Skywalker *Haze* on average. This should mean like half is already over. ☺️ Bonus: CUTE - SMC as well as Skywalker have slight purple tips (🍆) respectively tiny dark/ purple leaves. Fingers crossed i have a purple pheno! Temperatures are hot at the Moment, humidity dry. Both Translate to very good conditions in the tent. Guess thats it for this week, stay tuned. Edit: For nutrients, i still have some calmag and phosphor around from my beginnimgs. They dont seem necessary at the Moment, but — so i assume — will Not harm the plants either, at least in a very light concentration.

beating out as they sit there waiting for the weather to be good enough to plant outside, they will be going in this weekend finally. Just cant wait to see them at the end of the season

It's been 38 days of flower now and The gals are still loving the fc4800 and their new 8x8 mars hydro grow tent as much as I do👍 leaves are sticking straight up towards the light. They are starting to get some frost now. Quite a bit of frost too. A bud fell off because I bent it accidentally, so I just chopped it off because it was hanging and snapped. There's a picture of it below. Should be good weed with how much crystals it has and it's only 5 weeks of flower👍I Love how easy the zippers are to open and close. Nice and strong and guaranteed to last. It has extra material on the backside of the zipper that helps for light leaksand enough ports and vents for anything you need in it👍. the tsw2000 is still going strong and is also a very good light. Its been going almost nonstop for 6 months and still working the same as when I got it👍. It really got my last grow extremely frosty and is doing the same so far for this grow. I'm very happy with every product I have gotten from mars hydro 👍👍There's not much heat off both lights but the fc4800 is alot cooler and the heat-sinks work extremely well. I have it daisy chained to the tsw2000 and 1 dimmer controls the other and i don't need to be reaching in too far to dim the other light, it's awesome and I can't wait to buy more lights to daisy 4 together👍. I would recommend this light to everyone that grows with leds and have trouble with temperatures getting too high. Even if you grow with HPS lights I think any mars hydro light is a MUST TRY. I like how heavy both lights are because I know it means they are built soild and strong 💪. Very good sign with the frost they are starting to get thanks to bith mars hydro lights. I can notice more frost under the fc4800 and I'm thinking it's from the UV DIODES they put on the fc4800 👍. 2 days ago they all smelt like my nuken, sweet marshmallows. But now I can smell the monkey dough and gorilla glue and skunk monkey coming through👍. I touched a bud on the gorilla and monkey fingers smelt like fruit loops👍 really pleasant smell. Lingered on my fingers for atleast 30 min. I'm glad mars hydro is under priced compared to some brands and for how popular they are. usually companies would charge more. Thanks mars you guys are awesome 🤘🥁🎸. I'm getting a new exhaust fan soon. An 8 inch that will work alot better than my 4 inch lol. Wayyy to small for a 8x8 Grow Tent. Dehumidifier is going almost non stop to try and get the humidity down. I love how both lights on 100% power only raise my temperature 2 or 3 degrees 👍. You can rest your hand on the lights and not much heat comes off them. Obviously there is some heat but for the brightness of the lights and only raising the temp that much is awesome 👌.  And if I wanted to I could remove the driver from the fc4800 and run it on the outside of my tent because the cord is so long but 2 or 3 degrees is barely nothing👍. The girls are starting to bulk up abit now and only 3 weeks of flowering, these lights are awesome 👌.  My last run of monkey dough and gorilla glue didn't start showing alot of crystals until week 4. These were only 2.5 weeks and I started noticing some frost. Next week I will be able to tell more about what these custom bred seeds will be like. I love how the smell is changing now. Didn't want all them to smell like nuken marshmallows lol. It's awesome that I can get right inside the tent to do any work i need👍. Even if I wanted an 4x8 tent. I'd rather this 8x8 because it's so easy to work with the plants and have so much room to move around and massive headroom when I'm in there chillin with the gals🤣🤘. FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: Www.mars-hydro.com PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my shit🤜🤛 GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍   Track: Ethan Meixsell - Thor's Hammer [Rock] Music promoted by BreakingCopyright Watch: https://youtu.be/o6Gr0xn6U88 Download: https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary_...

28.07.2025 Something is wrong with the stretchy pheno. She is already finishing up. The Flowers are still small. And she looks hardly overfed.. I'll give her one ore two more days and cut her down then. the other two look and smell great!

Day 49-56 (June 18th - 25th) (Day 51) Slurricanes and tuna are doing excellent despite their hail damaged leaves. I’m seeing good growth and decent dry downs. One of them looks like it’s been ravaged by pests but I still can’t find any evidence or signs of a pest. I’m suspecting caterpillars so I’m going to grab some BTK killer and also some all purpose insecticide sometime this week if I have time. The clones are all really lagging so they won’t be flipped until July 15th at least. I’m still not seeing normal growth on any of them yet. It’s still quite gnarled and twisted. (Day 52) The slurricane and tuna roots are starting to poke through the bottom of my pots. This is usually from underwatering, a thick soil or a hot root zone. I’m going to give everything except for the autos a good watering with some runoff. I am going to start incorporating 5mm sand into all of my soil mixes to help make the soil more loamy and give it some better drainage. I will also top dress every container and bed plant I have. (Day 53) I was at a local department store today and I was shocked to see pallets of Destiny dark matter soil selling for 60% off! I bought 10 bags for a hundred bucks. At any hydro store that would have costed me 250 at least. I might go grab more because it looks like no one is buying it for 60% off even. (Day 54) I’m going to be harvesting both of my indoor crops today and tomorrow or the next day I am going to be reusing the soil-coco blend for the slurricanes. I’m first going to till it, add a gallon of sea compost, a gallon of Destiny soil and a few cups of 5mm sand per container. I will use the excess for 5 gal pots. I will be amending with: 5 tablespoons of nature’s pride bloom 4 tablespoons of kelp meal 2 tablespoons of Gaia green AP 2 tablespoons of glacial rock dust 2 tablespoons of oyster shell flour 2 tablespoons of alfalfa meal 1 tablespoon of rock dust blend 1/4 teaspoon of langbeinite (Day 56) The autos are really making a comeback now. I was under the impression that I was working against the clock and they would start flowering after 3-5 weeks. I guess if they’re stunted from the cold they will delay flowering. I don’t see any pistils or signs of flowering yet so I don’t think they’ve officially started flowering yet I didn’t get a chance to do my transplant this week or pest control. I will get to it ASAP because my photos are drinking almost a liter a day

it has really developed very well. it has grown another 10cm. and the flowers are now really coming into their own and are getting thicker and thicker. because of the heat, it has been given calm-a-mag and acti-vera by biobizz. and of course now also bio-bloom.

🔸Davvero una grande notizia! Una nuova collaborazione con @Spiderfarmer è iniziata e sono felice di poter creare dei contenuti per una azienda seria come la loro!!! Questa mattina è stata montata questa bellissima #SF2000 nella tenda da coltivazione più grande dove dovrà lavorare per far fiorire tutte le signorine che passeranno di qui prossimamente 😁😎🔥 Voglio fare i complimenti perché siete riusciti a creare veramente una luce bellissima con materiali super leggeri ed esteticamente geniali ❤️‍🔥oltre che consumare veramente poco (2.7 Umol/J)per il raggio di copertura ( 4x3 in crescita )(4x2 in fioritura ) e intensità uniforme in PPFD Mi piace molto anche il fatto che monta anche diodi IR utili per accelerare la fase di fioritura e aumentare la resa 💡 Ci saranno diversi aggiornamenti rimanete connessi e grazie ancora per essere passati a trovarmi 😃 https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl_EEAbu_vQ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Funzionalità principali 2022 NUOVA VERSIONE COSTI DI ESERCIZIO INFERIORI E RENDIMENTI DI QUALITÀ SUPERIORE: Le luci progressive a LED SPIDER FARMER SF2000 utilizzano la più recente tecnologia LED ad alto rendimento oggi: diodi Samsung LM301B, alta efficienza energetica con 2,7 umol/J, creano la migliore penetrazione della luce del baldacchino. Copertura vegetale 3 x 4 piedi, fiore 2 x 4 piedi. Potenza estremamente elevata ma consuma solo 200 W di elettricità, rendendola più efficiente delle tradizionali lampade HID e di altre lampade per piante sul mercato. NUOVO DISPOSIZIONE DEI DIODI E DESIGN DIMMERANTE: Luci crescenti SF2000 aggiornate. Più perline leggere ai bordi, meno al centro. Aiuta a ottenere una PPFD più uniforme. e la manopola di regolazione della luminosità regola liberamente l'intensità della luce. Connessione multi-luce con regolazione unificata particolarmente vantaggiosa per un'ampia area di coltivazione indoor e piantagione commerciale. IDEALE PER TUTTE LE FASI DI CRESCITA: Eccellente spettro completo: bianco, blu, rosso e IR (3000K, 5000K, 660nm e IR 760nm). Diodi 3000K che forniscono più luce rossastra e 5000K che forniscono più luce bluastra. La luce rossa e IR da 660 nm è particolarmente utile durante la fioritura, dove accelera i tempi di fioritura e aumenta i raccolti. Trasforma i tuoi semi nella tua scorta. E la luce sembra abbastanza naturale, quindi è utile per monitorare accuratamente la salute delle piante. COSTRUZIONE BEN FATTA E SOLIDA: nessuna ventola senza rumore. Il driver ad alta efficienza, affidabile e staccabile ha un'ottima dissipazione del calore. Il dissipatore di calore in alluminio è spesso e robusto, coperture protettive per i cavi; Imballaggio intuitivo. Componenti di qualità significano che la luce dura più a lungo, SF Light si prende cura di te con un design più attento, puoi facilmente risparmiare denaro senza acquistare frequentemente luci. In qualità di produttore professionale di luci di coltivazione a LED da oltre 10 anni. Spider Farmer ha sempre insistito per creare attrezzature per la semina domestica più efficienti, adatte e di alta qualità per la crescita delle piante e si impegna a diventare un partner fidato per ogni coltivatore! Riceverai una lampada da coltivazione Spider Farmer SF2000, un manuale di istruzioni, un paio di ganci d'argento, un paio di ganci neri.

Heute gingen die kleinen zum keimen. Ich bin gespannt wie die neue Anzuchtstation ist. Diesmal werde ich 6 Pflanzen mit Plagron Bio und 3 Pflanzen mit BioTabs, alles ganz nach schema düngen. Als Blütekammer kommt wieder die Homebox R120. Man darf gespannt sein. 😊 Leider ist eine Gorilla Zkittlez nicht gekeimt. Die hab ich durch eine Alienz von Greenhouse ersetzt

Hey Nothing Much to say, she smells very good and is happy. I have a lot to do at the moment, which is why there is not so much to say this week. I have a problem with humidity but I can fix it Cannaapeace

Начинаю растить новый сорт моим собственным методом. Я его называю корона, хотя больше подходит название Multiple Symmetric Lollipopping. Это что-то среднее между Main Lining, Low Stress Training и SoG. Суть заключается в том, что мы делаем Topping выше 4-го этажа и затем все 8 основных веток разводим по сторонам. Четыре нижние ветки по диагонали, четыре верхние крест-накрест. В итоге получается эдакий равномерный круг веток, растущих на одной высоте, так как мы легко можем контролировать высоту каждой ветки. Принципиально можно и 10 и 12 веток делать, но мне хватает 8. Желательно иметь широкий горшок, чтобы было куда разводить ветки. Надеюсь когда-нибудь появится новый метод MSL с моим авторством. Итак, взял две семечки, а победитель по росту переедет в большой горшок. Гроубокс у меня самодельный. Две лампы HLG 100, но по факту обе работают по 50ватт. Встроено два фильтра и два канальных вентилятора. Один работает постоянно, второй включается автоматически при превышении верхнего порога температуры. Дверки на защелках, проклеены уплотнителем чтобы не пробивался свет и запах. Внутррение габариты от лампы ШДВ - 67х48х68 сантиметров. Помещается два куста, но я предпочитаю растить только 1. Как проращиваю семена? 1. Они всегда хранятся в холодильнике. При попадании в теплую и влажную среду семена получают сигнал к росту и быстрее всего прорастают, буквально за 14-16 часов. 2. Берем нужные семена и кладем в теплую воду (18-22 градуса Цельсия) на 3-4 часа. Это нужно, чтобы скорлупа размягчилась, а семечко согрелось и получила достаточно влаги. 3. Слегка маникюрными щипчиками расщепляем скорлупу. Делается специально, чтобы как можно раньше корешок начал получать воздух. Чем быстрее раскрывается скорлупа, тем быстрее начинает прорастать корень и уменьшается риск загнивания. 4. Садим в таблетку или сразу в готовый субстрат. Обычно я сажу сразу в готовый субстрат, но в этот раз решил попробовать в торфяной таблетке, чтобы выбрать победителя по активности роста. Как я готовлю кокосовый субстрат? 1. Я никогда не использую старый субстрат. Во-первых, я применяю микоризу и множество других грибков и бактерий, которые для маленьких ростков будут слишком концентрированными и могут навредить. Во-вторых, в старом кокосе очень много старых корней, которые обязательно будут гнить. С одной стороны это хорошо, но по факту это приводит к загниванию субстрата и образованию плесени. 2. Беру половину брикета, развожу в воде, промываю в проточной воде (попеременно горячей и холодной) пока не вымоется вся морская соль и затем размешиваю с вермикулитом и перлитом. 3. Заливаю полученный субстрат на 15-20 минут удобрением Cal-Mag (1000 PPM), чтобы субстрат набрал катионов кальция и магния, иначе первую неделю полива кокос будет забирать эти вещества из полива, а растение будет голодать. Если измерить PPM воды после внесения Cal-Mag и через 20 минут, то увидите, что PPM упадет до 600-700 единиц. Это кокос вобрал в себя соли. 4. Заливаю удобрением, в случае трех-компонентного Grow-Micro-Bloom в соотношении 3-2-1, PPM 1000. Также оставляю на 15-20 минут. Нужно это затем, чтобы кокос теперь равномерно вобрал в себя другие катионы (железо, цинк, медь, калий, ну и азотистые соединения, как то мочевина и аммоний). То есть мы целенаправленно вымываем излишки кальция и магния. 5. Затем, уже поливаем нашим удобрением с PPM 600-700 чтобы чуток снизить концентрацию. 6. В этот готовый буферизированный субстрат потом и попадет пророщенное семечко. Как я поливаю? В течение первых трех недель я поливаю через день. И не важно, высох субстрат или не высох. Кокосовый субстрат это позволяет. Далее приходится поливать каждый день, потому что развитая корневая система осушивает весь субстрат за сутки под чистую. Никогда не поливаю чистой водой - это только нарушает PH внутри субстрата и приводит к стрессу растения. Если нужно промыть субстрат, то готовится несколько поливов с нужным удобрением. Вспомните про то как после промывки падает PPM. Вот тоже самое происходит и при поливе чистой водой: питательные элементы вымываются с кокоса и когда вы начинаете "кормить" растение, оно голодает, потому что кокос все отбирает, чтобы делиться "потом", когда "насытится". PH на веге всегда около 5.6-5.8, на цветении 5.8-6.1. PPM стараюсь держать на уровне 700. На цветении 1200-1400. Если вы дочитали до этого момента и увидели страшную цифру в 700 PPM, то на самом деле ничего страшного в этом нет. Если вы возьмете обычную землю, разведете водой и померяете PPM, то он там будет куда более высокие показатели. На самом деле растение способно жить даже при PPM в 5000 единиц. Поливать растение с PPM 300 - это слишком бедная смесь. Как правило, все руководства ориентируются на земляной грунт, а производители страхуются и дают заниженные нормы, чтобы покупатели случайно не сожгли свои растения. Но если если у вас есть PH и TDS измерительные приборы, то вы смело можете щедро кормить свое растение, а оно вам ответит буйным ростом и плотными шишками. Всегда руководствуюсь золотым правилом проверки дренажа: PPM растет PH падает: у растения несварение и что-то оно не может усвоить. PPM падает PH растет: растение голодает, либо нарушен ионно-катионный баланс. PPM стоит PH растет: все идет хорошо. В каждом случае нужно понимать что было сделано ранее и корректировать действия. Итак: 19.01.2021, в 12:00 замочил семечки в воде 19.01.2021, в 16:00 расколол аккуратно семечки и посадил в торфяную таблетку 19.01.2021, в 23:00 уже одна семка начала вылезать из торфа, хотя утапливал. И это всего лишь прошло 7 часов. Чувствую кандидат на пересадку уже показал себя. 20.01.2021, в 16:00 эта же семечка уже отрастила корешок и полностью показалась из торфа. 21.01.2021, в 10:00 выскочило из торфа и готова расправить листики. Вторая семечка пока сохраняет молчание. 21.01.2021, в 17:00 росток вот вот начнет разрывать скорлупку чтобы выпустить первые семядоли. Перенес в гроубокс под лампу. 23.01.2021, в 10:00 умер... так и не увидев свет. А вот её младшая сестра неожиданно вылеза из торфа и вытянулась за ночь на 2 сантиметра, пока были отключены лампы. Пришлось ей вручную снимать скорлупу. 23.01.2021, в 15:00 младшая сестра уже показала хвостик корня с другой стороны торфяной таблетки. Завтра надо будет пересаживать уже в нормальный горшок 24.02.2021, в 14:00 девочка переехала в новый дом. Первые листики стали размером с семядолями. Поздравления принимаются, мы проросли.

Fed with nutrients 8/29 Start of week 5 flower : 8/30/25

Inizio nuovo ciclo Giovedì 26 settembre 2024 Aggiungo 75 lt acqua osmosi inversa ec 146 ph 9 Aggiungo tutti I nutrienti ottenendo ec 908 ph 6.5

I used a green gelato seed (Mother) in order to take clones I germinated the seed with a paper towel. The germination time served to wash the coconut with 1000pppm of calimagic, then I added it with 30% perlite and wetted the soil with GH Flovanova GROW+Calimagic+DiamondNectar at 400ppm. These processes lasted 2 days, when the seed was ready I placed it in the soil, and from then on I watered it once a day with a pH always between 5.8 and 6.0. And the following weeks I always use these rules along with the plant's responses: After it opens up and shows the cotyledons, water twice a day. After showing 2 knots 3 times a day and increased to 600ppm of the same solution. After 4-5 knots, water 5 times a day and gradually increase to 900ppm-1000ppm. I put some clones of the mother to root, underneath the rock wool tubes I placed 1/2 finger of water with FloraNovagrow solution up to 400ppm. they rooted as shown in the photo after 1 week and 3 days. I put it in the final 14-liter vase with the soil already washed and the preparation processes done. The mother was transferred to the 60x60 greenhouse, which will flower before the clones.

Hello guys, Here I am again to present you a new run, still with the best leds of the market nevertheless as I changed my growing space from 120x120 to 150x150. So I had to update the material inside... I will run with 3 EVO 5-150 lamps of 320W or 960W with Bluetooth dimmers. For the Hydro system, it will be the V-SYSTEM from Alienhydroponics. In fertilizers I am always with Advanced Nutrients. I work with osmosis water. Currently, 4 clones took on 4. Once the roots are ready, I will transfer the cuttings from the propagator to the V-SYSTEM. ------------------------ since the 16/08, when I transplanted the plants in the RDWC system, I noticed some points that I will mention below and correct next time. 1. The cuttings are too small, allow enough time so that I can completely fill my pots with clay balls. 2. Cut out the bottom of the pots from the cuttings. 3. 3/4 of the cuttings are touching the water, so one is late. Next time when transplanting, add more water, up to the basket in order to immerse all the plants and not to create a difference between each one, consequence now I have 3 that are ready to explode and one that will struggle behind, problem corrected today by increasing the volume of water. 4. The b-52 is a real pain in the ass in RDWC, you have to clean the 2 filters almost every day, with this new soup I'm testing without and I think I'll continue like this just with the base sensi grow A and B, as I use Root rot X, I won't use voodoo juice since all the bacteria would be killed. 5. Use of Voodoo Juice is useless if using Root Rot X which will kill the bacteria. I don't know why but when I transplanted in the RDWC, I put my set up in growth mode, except that the plants were not ready for it, moreover, I made a FIM on each. So I lost some days, these last days I went back to a ppdf of 150, now that my roots touch the water, I declare growth 0 on 22/08, I will do between 21 and 28 days of growth. And as my roots are doing well and touching the water I'll go to a PPFD of 300 ++

so were almost at harvest, have begun flushing this last week and hopefully will be chopping beginning of next week, then the cure... CAN NOT WAIT TO BUST UP SOME OF THESE NUGS AND PACK THEM IN THE BON 😆

Stretch seems to be over. Buds almost doubled their size. Looks fine - not very smelly yet

Pablito, Pablito... What is wrong with you my Man?? I mean... Ph is at 6,3. EC is at 1,5. You get all Nutrients what you need. The Light is at 50% (720w) and 50cm above you... So why tf do you do this with you/me and your Leafs???