Purple Kush Auto 1st Grow

There's always a risk of burn. But up to you if you wanna take it. Resilient genetics can handle it... But you'd have to know your seeds well. In any case, try happy frog first. If you don't have that... Dilute about a cup's worth of soil in the center of your pot... with coco, older soil, or whatever safe substrate really...anything that dilutes the hot soil .. that way, the center where you are planting isn't too hot... But when it grows out .. it can consume all the ocean forest nutes it wants without burning... Good luck!

Best soil is promix HP. There is no nutrients at all in it so the plants only get what you give them. Foxfarm is too expensive bro. Don't need it if you have fertilizer

You got it right with the EC meter, keep your EC levels under control, feed every 2-3 watering, control the EC levels of the drains. Stay below 1200ppm. And everything should be fine.

You will need both. The humidifier during Vegging cycle and until week 3 of flowering to keep your RH around 60%. And a dehumidifier from the 4th week of flowering until harvest to keep your RH below 50%.

That Soil meter is a gadget. Just lift your pot to see if it is still heavy and full of water or not. Make sure to get a nice drain coming out (20%) from the pot on watering day. Following these simple rules will keep your soil moist and the pH level in the right range.

If it is a SF-1000 you can run 100 percent about 14 inches away

I have told Shawn many times to stop testing on lettuce and try on Cannabis 😄 Migro can be a bit too intense if you follow manufacturer recommendations, I would suggest to put it at 90cm for seedlings and young plants.

Defoliating, in my opinion, is one of the most detrimental things you can do to any cannabis plant. Removing leaves just reduces your plants ability to make energy, thereby reducing growth and plant size, especially in autos. If your plant did not need the leaves you just removed, it would not grow them in the first place! Each leaf is like a "solar panel". Less solar panels = less energy = less/slower growth. In over 35 years of growing, I am yet to see any plant that gets rid of its own perfectly healthy and green, energy producing leaves for no reason or benefit. Defoliation is again another stupid idea where humans think they know better than the plants, and are imposing their will upon a flourishing being that has been perfecting its growth habits for Millenia. If it did not need the leaves for the fastest and bestest growth, it would not grow them in the first place. I feel sorry for defoliated plants, all that time, energy and effort, just taken away from them for no reason. What a waste. Oh well, it is what it is. Your plant will now have to spend a lot of energy re-growing those lost leaves, starting from/with a reduced capacity to make energy, slowing recovery and reducing over all size, mainly due to the limited life span of autos before they turn to flowering. Just remember in future - Maximum amount of healthy green leaves = maximum energy production = maximum growth. It is the way they have been doing it for hundreds of thousands of years. Regards, Organoman.

Good, pour out the water from the cup, control EC and pH if needed. Lift your pot, keep the weight in mind, water when the pot isn’t that heavy anymore. By lifting the pots, you’re going to start to follow your plants watering schedule. The plants are going to tell you when they need water.

You use the runoff to control the EC and the pH of the soil. By doing so, you will always know if you need to feed the next time. When pH start to drop, it’s mostly a sign that NaCl start to build up. Without diving too deep into mineralogy and crystallization to keep it easy to understand, in short sketch, Nitrogen N turns into Sodium Chloride NaCl (sea salt) after a while when it’s not being used.

My rule of thumb personally any leaf touching soil gets the chop from my planters. Let the plants use the energy to grow up and out and not worry about those ones! Specially in flowering stage the girls absorb most energy from The large fan leaves to grow those beautiful nugs. Good luck and happy growing 🙏

Hi mate, barns is right water when light. She is picking back up. You can see her leaves lifting. It could possibly be the LST that made her drop. I'd leave her a little longer. Keep watering when light. Hope this helps 🙂

You don’t need to transplant it anymore, the roots stop growing just before they start flowering. Yours is already in the flowering stage. And particularly if it is an Autoflowering, you don’t transplant Auto’s.

Phone app PPFD meters can work decently, I use one in my own grow to confirm hanging height, and reference it to the manufacturer stated PPFD for certain hanging heights (MIGROW is good about providing that information.) Your 46 PPFD for the 240 watt LED seems unbelievably low so I would look into that. Make sure the app adjusts for the correct light spectrum/colour of your particular light (eg. 4000k) and keep in mind your phone will measure from the camera on the some side as your screen, and not the one on the back. 200 PPFD for a young seedling, 400-500 for veg, and upwards of 700 in flower are the numbers I aim for. Happy growing!

It’s the first symptom of over feeding. The plant isn’t using all the nutrients and salt start to form in the substrate. You’re just slightly a bit to high, lower your feeding solution (100-200ppm less). Control the EC of the drain before and reduce your feeding solution.

For that size of plant it may be a little on the high side. reading the plant is really the only way to know for sure. If you start seeing burned tips like that you'll know to dial it back a bit. I'd probably pull your nutrient strength back to 50-60%

Yes autos can have a 5-6 week veg and a 10-12 week flower.

Once burnt, they will not recover and become un-burnt. It was not caused by the lights. It was caused by over feeding with nitrogen (usually), but it will not affect yield or potency. Watering to run off is vital, it helps to prevent nutrient salts from building up to toxic levels in the substrate and burning your plants. If growing in soil, you should aim for a schedule of plain water/plain water/feed/plain water/plain water/feed so that your plants are getting nutrients every 7-10 days. This is ample feed and will ensure what is added is used up by the plant before the next lot of fertilizer is given and will stop any burning, as long as a sensible feeding program is used. Hope this helps, Organoman.

Yeah those are just calyxes - seeds will grow in them if pollinated, but I doubt that’s the case. That’s what you want is to wait til there’s more visible buds/calyxes and those pistils/stigmas are less predominant. Autoflowers are wonky and I’ve rarely seen one actually flower in 8-9 weeks. I’d say you should shoot more for the 11-12 week mark as far as a chop. My autos often ended up (I rarely run them anymore) less dense and more airy. So I would say letting them go a bit longer should be better to help tighten up the flowers. That is the downside of autos, among many, that they really don’t get you to harvest quicker. Most guys I see end up running them 10-14 weeks. You can get FAR superior bud from vegging a photoperiod for 4 weeks and sending to 12/12. On that schedule you’ll have a harvest in 12-14 weeks. I digress tho - just my experience from starting off doing autos and then going to photos. I say let her ride tho for at least 2 more weeks

Like i said earlier. Each seed is different one could be done in 9 weeks another in 12. Each seed has it's own timeline.

Your trichomes are coming on nicely. Still some way off. Not enough brown pistils. In another 4 weeks you will see her fatten up.

Drying individual branches is easier to manage and will allow the flowers to dry more evenly.

Dry trim after the flowers have dried is my suggestion. Drying time is hugely variable depending on room temps, bud density, air circulation and humidity, but can take anywhere from 3-10 days. Make sure to dry in darkness, light on harvested flowers will degrade cannabinoids rapidly. I find drying individual branches makes handling easy and is much faster than drying whole plants. Leaving the leaves on when drying protects the trichomes from being knocked off and having the leaves to let the water evaporate is better than all of the water having to evaporate through the flowers, such as when wet trimmed and having all the water pass through the buds can also damage terpenes and cannabinoids too. Believe it or not, but flowers with the leaves left on will actually dry faster and more evenly than wet trimmed flowers, due to the larger surface area of the leaves providing much greater and more efficient water evaporation. Coat hangers make wonderful "branch drying holders", just use a short piece of fine wire hooked around the end of the branch and then twist/coil the other end of the wire over the coat hanger. An indoor clothes' drying rack makes a great place to hang the "coat hanger branch drying holders". Hope this helps, Organoman.

Hey mate, looks like you've got a while yet. When 80% of the pistils are brown then you should start flushing Hope this helps 🙂

maybe another 4 weeks, according to the breeder anyways, after the recommend time by the breeder check your tris, look for cloudy to amber heads, so let them go for 50% amber and longer but your in the right direction, more time young jedi, more time

Continue with ph water only for last 2 weeks. It is called a fade. Allows plant to use up stored energy, color morph if it will, makes end bud taste better. Unless you like smoking and testing fertilizer. Very bitter and harsh when I tested it, rather gross. Me personally I do last 2 to 3 weeks. Once my buds stop beefing up and cloudiness is starting good in trichromes I flush the ph water till finish. There will be deficiency signs etc. In this process. This final stressing plus darkness I personally always do.

Fast drying by pointing a fan at your buds will "snap dry" them, locking away terpenes and cause a crappy hay smell. Once locked away, they are locked away forever. You certainly don't want any type of humidifier in the drying area, this can lead to mold. Temps are ok, but humidity around 40% is much more bud friendly. You just want a gentle breeze in the growing area to remove humid air, not some sort of cyclonic vortex causing accelerated drying. Drying usually takes 4-10 days, depending on branch size and bud density. A longer and slower drying process is far better than a quick "snap dry" which just closes all the bud pores almost immediately, trapping the terpenes forever. Drying in complete darkness is also important, any direct light on your buds after harvesting will cause cannabinoid breakdown rather quickly. Hope this helps, Organoman.