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Bruce Banner - PC controlled system

Approved by Original Sensible Seeds
12
57
16
2396
2 years ago
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12
Tent
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 10
Topping
weeks 10
FIMing
weeks 5, 10
Defoliation
weeks 8
HST
weeks 8, 10
ScrOG
weeks 8-16
Other
Grow medium
Expanded Clay
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 11
Flowering
75
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
13+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Veg
14 ml/l
Flo
26 ml/l
bloom
5.25 ml/l
6+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by
Maskedcucumber Maskedcucumber
2 years ago
Tried many things this week in order to save the crop. I added too much iron for 24h (got a really bad advice from a growshop) and so I had to change the tank again and added good fungi (myco and trycho), fulvic acid, vitamins. So now they got iron excess with redish spots. They are at 1.6 ec + 0.4 iron, hoping they won't die from iron overfeeding... Day 77, They are definitely feeling better excepted for some red stems and a lack of calcium. Lack of phosphorus causing this ? Not sure since no lower leaves has gone wrong. Day 78 update : Actually I just foud out that Bruce Banner often have red stems, at least I saw that in a picture search.
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Grow Questions
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 3 years ago
I was wondering what specific needs does the Bruce Banner #3 strain needs for climate and nutrients, grow calendar and training techniques but my grow space is small : 60 x 40 cm. (23 x 15 inches) so I should probably go for a sog, big bud or lollypopping. Thanks
Solved
Setup. Strains - Photoperiod
Feeding. Other
Techniques. HST
1 like
Papa_T
Papa_Tanswered grow question 3 years ago
You could search the diaries that have grown bruce banners and look at how other have done their grows. As for your tent. I wouldnโ€™t go more than two plants in that space. Honestly will get crowded fast. I have three in my 2 foot by 4 foot tent and thatโ€™s it thatโ€™s all Iโ€™m getting in there. Just gotta remember canopy takes space. Jamming plants in the tent is only gonna make branches fight each other for real estate. I would strive for quality over quantity.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 3 years ago
Are my Bruce banner big enough for 13 days old ? The pellets were too dry for a couple of days (only 70% humidity) at the beginning and maybe the light was too weak (I used 40% of 205w Led at 70cm from the plant, area is quite small). What do you think ? Thx !!!
Solved
Leaves. Too few
Plant. Too short
1 like
GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 3 years ago
For photo period from sprout in hydro setup. 1st week from sprout you feed at 400ppm 0.8 ec, if their autos start at 200ppm 0.4ec from sprout. If you seen good growth the first week, then up the feed by 100ppm 0.2 ec for the second week. Every week if your seeing good growth you up it by 200ppm 0.2ec , until you reach 800 ppm 1.6ec. With autos you stop at 600 ppm 1.2ec. Your ph should be set at 5.8 through veg mode and 6.3 through flower mode.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
How much should I irrigate the plants at this stage with my drip hydro system ? (clay pebbles, day 17 now) I think it goes bit dry in less than 48 hours. Some sites say they should be irrigated 15 mn on 15mn off 24/7 My EC is a bit low (0.4 right now) so maybe I can irrigate mor
Solved
Feeding. Automatic systems
Feeding. Schedule
1 like
GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 2 years ago
I would go 24/7, as no need for pebbles to dry.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Hello, it looks like iron and potassium deficiency, what do you think ? I'm just a noob.
Solved
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Feeding. Deficiences
1 like
NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 2 years ago
fast new growth is sometimes lighter green. I'd make suer the blemish isn't some normal early plant stuff... those first few sets of leaves can be wonky, but then it grows out of it. Wow, great info in diary... pH looks fine, EC looks fine (~1.5 is great, i do see a small spike?).... ppm at ~6pH: N - 120ish P - 50ish K- 200ish if near those values, prolly not a def/toxicty from NPK... doesn't rule out lockout elsewhere for other reasons of course. Fe is rarely an issue. using RO water can be an exception, but since you are 'hydro' nutes, it should have all the trace elements you need.. it'd be rare in this context to be Fe. i'd becareful of trying to maintain ~5.8pH... it's right on edge for P, Ca, Mg, and Mo. regardless, i'd give it a bit of time.. i bet it grows out of it with no change needed. I'd calculate your per nutrient ppm from guaranteed analysis labels and if in ballpark of what was listed above, should be fine. pH impacts that ratio a bit, and i use a slightly higher pH.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Hi, I was wondering how long are the nutrients blocked after an overfertilisation ? I lowered my EC to 1 (day 24) since they are growing a 3rd internode. Thanks !
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Plant. Too short
Feeding. Deficiences
1 like
GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 2 years ago
In water grows, they recover in 2 to 3 days. Just make sure you run some plain 5.8 ph water over your clay to release any built up salts in the clay. Then for the week your in and if their photos, then your good at 5 to 600 ppm 1 to 1.2 ec for now. If you see good growth next week, then up them by 100 ppm. Do this every week until you hit 800 ppm 1.6 ec. If their autos, cut them back to 400 ppm and up the same way until you reach 600 ppm
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
So I overfed them last week and now they are quite small (chlorosis). Most of them have 4 to 5 nodes. Should I wait for them to be taller (25-30cm ?) and greener for fimming ? I'm aiming to lollypop them later, I don't have much width. Thx !
Solved
Plant. Too short
Techniques. FIMing
1 like
MrNObody_Grows
MrNObody_Growsanswered grow question 2 years ago
I would begin training now. 5 nodes is what I shoot for. You want established roots for better recover rates so if she has been sick at all I would wait till recovered growth rates. I veg longer than normal though but thatโ€™s my method. Happy growing!
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Though my extractor is at high speed, I have a hard time with controlling humidity, I hardly go under 68%, specially during the night. Probably it's the clay pebbles since the pots don't have a lid. I placed the temp/humidity probe near the tallest leaves. what do you think ?
Solved
Other. Mold
Setup. Ventilation
1 like
BeautifulCraftRreddit
BeautifulCraftRredditanswered grow question 2 years ago
If these are photoperiod and still in veg I wouldn't mind the higher humidity because of vpd (vapor pressure deficit)will probably be around the sweet spot meaning better growth. But I would install some fans to keep the air moving above and below the canopy
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
My babies have different sizes from 25 to 16 cm. What is better ? : a strong light (Dimmed 60% of a 205 led) far away from the plants (46cm for the closer ones and 57cm for the smallest plants) or or a more moderate light (dimmed at 40%) but closer (from 35cm to 46cm) Thx so much
Solved
Plant. Too short
Plant. Too tall
1 like
NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 2 years ago
Use risers... something to lift the shorter ones. old textbooks? an upside down bucket? etc... some 2x4s, if they remain dry and no mold on them, lol. footprint and beam angle determine height of light, then use dimmer from there, if needed. Still more penetration if you use 100% and raise the light from there if it is too intense for a mature plant. There is some concern when dimming significantly. you lose integrity of spectrum for lack of better words... that nice curve that mimics wavelengths related to photosynthesis... toss that out the window when dimmed very low. it'l still work obviously, but bang per buck is diminished in other ways too, like loss of efficacy in driver when dimmed enough. imo at the stage your plants are at, better to have at ~100% and at a higher distance than optimal for footprint, if needed. the immersion from photons bouncing off walls will be hitting places that would otherwise not receive as much light. Talking few more watts and better buds below! The reason you need more light in bloom is only due to 33% fewer hours of light. when photons are added up, they can handle the same amount of light per 24 hours over 12 as they can over 18 (DLI) which will mostly depend on amount of CO2 there is. but temp and RH%. are important too. Regardless of that, you hav a light and you have a space filled... you can't neglect a plant at this point. Height should be determined by what can properly hits all plants... raising it from there plausible, but lowering should be avoided because you will lose proper coverage due to beam angle. awesome info in diary, btw. will be easy to diagnose problems with confidence. i'd calculate your elemental ppm of each nute from your labels... at least once. minor adjustments, you'll have an idea and that's good enough at that point.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
So I installed an intraction (145 m3/h speed1) and aluminium foil on the pots but humidity is still hight like 75% when nightime and the lowest is 65%. Probably the water evaporates by the pots (drip, clay pebbles). I have no more ideas. Do I have to buy a deshumidifier? Thx !
Solved
Setup. Ventilation
1 like
NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 2 years ago
get a dehum with a pump for continuous drain or buy a condensate pump with one that does not have that option. One that is a bit larger than required is a good idea, so it doen't have to struggle while run 24/7 -- believe the bigger portable ones are more efficient than the smaller ones anyway? It will definitely add some heat to the room... depending on size of room and if you exhaust outside that room etc... could fit a small one inside an enclusore, but i don't like giving up growing space to equipment.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
My Ph probe didn't work, PH was at least more than 0.30 (maybe 0.60) than displayed. As a result they had multiple chlorosis, now septoria leaf spots and possible Pythium since the roots are getting brown. What would you do to save the crop ? Adding mycorrhizae? Thx!
Solved
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Roots. Color - Brown
1 like
Itsgnomegrown
Itsgnomegrownanswered grow question 2 years ago
That isnโ€™t a ph issue, thatโ€™s a calcium and magnesium issue. Being off by 0.30 or 0.60 wonโ€™t make a difference if you were 5.9 lower or 7.1 or higher Iโ€™d be an issue. The spots are from the plant starting to rust up from calcium def and the fanleaves yellowing like they are are from a magnesium def. the lime green tips are new growth and itโ€™ll get darker as it grows. Itโ€™s usually sometimes itโ€™s one of those two deficiencies or the other but some strains do both if the plant is more adaptive to being acidic. Buy some cal mag plus cause it has nitrogen as well and use it every other watering. Itโ€™ll work itself out with a few weeks. I use 2.5 ml in a half gallon once a week and 5ml when I give a whole gallon. Other than the magnesium issue they look great and good job on the veg.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Is it chlorosis, deficiencies, septoria, pythium ? calmag, iron, H2o2 or mycorrhizae needed ? What would you do to save the crop (preflowering stage) ? Thanks a lot for your help
Solved
Leaves. Veins - yellow between
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Roots. Color - Brown
1 like
Roberts
Robertsanswered grow question 2 years ago
Looks like you are magnesium deficient or your ph is boarder line to being out of range. Add cal mag to nutrition, I would up potassium and phosphorus levels going into flowering. Easy on nitrogen your plant is showing dark green and even looks shiny which is nitrogen toxicity. Nothing you have done has jeopardized your harvest yet. Just speed bumps. Doing good, few minor changes and back to killing it๐Ÿคœ๐Ÿค› good luck and happy growing ๐ŸŒฑ
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Brought EC to 1.6, added 21ml of calmag, had to add 2L of osmosis water because the EC was 1.78. I changed the bad Ph probe and I let it fluctuate between 5.75 and 6. Should I remove the aluminium foil on the pot to let them breathe ? Not sure they are overwatered, I'm desperate
Solved
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Feeding. Deficiences
1 like
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowanswered grow question 2 years ago
Hey there MaskedHunter, the chlorosis on the newest growth is simply "inertia" from the magnesium deficiency which is an "immobile nutrient" so it will affect the newest growth first. The good news is that you're already fixing it, so just be patient and keep doing what you're doing. Just one more thing, you can see some N toxicity symptoms also, that's the "too dark" "too green" "shiny aspect" of the leafs. Probably you can cut the N by quite a lot to fix it. Both of these problems are quick and easy to fix, so dont panic and dont stress, because that is how you can make mistakes. I hope this helps ! ๐Ÿš€
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
So I bought a dehumidifier as advised but now the room gets hotter (Had to setup an extractor to pull the hot air and now I have no intraction) and during the day EC goes up of 0.1 or even 0.2 (from 1.8 to 1.9 or 2). I suppose there are more nutriments because of dehumidification
Solved
Setup. Ventilation
1 like
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowanswered grow question 2 years ago
Hi there MaskedCucumber , really interesting question. I dont really know what motivated you to get a dehumidifier, but it's not such a simple thing i think. Basically the logic is that plants are mostly water, they use water, etc. much like us actually. So they actually enjoy quite high humidity, even in flower. The main problem with high humidity is the mold, so this is the issue you should prevent as a priority. What i do is i use beneficial microbes to make sure the plants are not contaminated. However, in your case you brought the humidity down. This means you should actually increase the temperature up to 25ยฐC no problem. You'll see quite a big difference. Or you can keep your temperature at 21ยฐC and bring your humidity down to 36-40% for the same results. the relationship between temperature and humidity is determined by the VPD. It's not so simple, but if you learn about VPD, you will level up your growing skills , really. Hope this helps ! ๐Ÿš€
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
I had a nitrogen toxicity and a chlorosis (overfeeding, bad PH probe) during veg. They are green for a few days (Now day 66 from seed and flowering since day 41). One has messy and 2many leaves, one burned, 2 are small. I was wondering about the consequences on quality and yield?
Solved
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Plant. Twisted
1 like
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowanswered grow question 2 years ago
hey there MaskedCucumber, honestly it's pretty bad, but you might not notice it if you dial it in. So you're complete right in your assessment , and you also see newer growth with discoloration , that also means an issue with immobile nutrients plus the downward pointing tips means you have root problems. So the most important thing is dont panic, now is absolutely not the time to flush and cause water stress to your plant. What I suggest is to take a look at your nutrients, cut out the xtraroots and cannazym and replace it with humic acid . The xtraroots has concentrated N in it plus a lot of microbes that are finally very well established, the the zym increases that. humic acid is actually much the same but it has different properties, for example it can also fix your root problems from the xtraroots. usually when you're in flower you do want to stop giving that stuff, but anyway in your case the problem was some "hidden N" inside it. so another pretty good thing with the humic acid is that it will air out your medium next watering just use that once, then replace the other additives with that humic acid for the next times and keep doing what you're doing, you'll see all the problems stop spreading and the plant should recover immediately. By the way fluvic acid also works, just be a bit careful with your pH. Hope this helps ! ๐Ÿš€
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
These are both Bruce Banners but they look different. One is very tall the other one very short (and burned badly due to Nitrogen and iron overfeeding and bad ph) Are they different pheno of Bruce banner ? thx !!
Solved
Buds. Other
1 like
KushGANG
KushGANGanswered grow question 2 years ago
Hello maskedcucumber yes you have 2 differents phenotypes. The first ( small) is more indica and the other wich is tall is more hybrid or sativa phenotype. After each phenotype had different behaviour and need different amount of nutrients. Hope it helps you. Bye
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
I had an iron toxicity recently that may explain the brown parts but it may look like calcium deficiency. There are many red stems too but it maybe something else like the bad Ph and overfeeding from the previous month. What do you think ? Thanks !!
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Red or pink
1 like
WhyBudsbun
WhyBudsbunanswered grow question 2 years ago
Hi, Also phosphorus deficiency would cause all symptoms. Check here: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/phosphorus-deficiency In order to solve these kind of problems a good flush with the PH water and then a good feeding is just what you need. Please note that you might be feeding the correct amount of nutrients but the plant might not be absorving them. Checking the EC of feed water and runoff water can also hint you these things.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Half of the plants are late (chlorosis, iron toxicity, nitrogen overfd) on a scrog net. As individual flush is impossible, I guess I have no choice than having different batches of ambered trichomes ! And I thought about different strains next time, sweet dreams...
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Color - Mottling
Other. Harvest - Curing
1 like
Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question 2 years ago
Hi mate similar problem to what I had last batch with plants at different stages. I managed to get mine out individually and flush but if I hadn't been able to then I was just going to harvest various parts of each plant at a time. Hope this helps.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Many pistils are getting dark and it seems some trichomes are already milky but I'm not sure. I had many setbacks during the grow but I didn't think a plant would be that early. How much time do I have left ? I didnt start senescence yet (end of week)
Solved
Buds. Other
Other. Other
2 likes
Kush_queen
Kush_queenanswered grow question 2 years ago
The trichomes are always further along on the leaves look at the trichomes on the actual bud and it will give you a better idea of when your girl is ready her buds will bulk up over the next couple of weeks I imagine that's when she will be ready for harvest ๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ™๐ŸŒฑ
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
At the end of every day, EC rises by 0.2 at least. Starts at 1.60 and then in their evening it goes up to 1.83 ! So I have to add water (2L) in order to go down. Does it have to do with the fact they had overfeeding, toxicities and deficiency so they don't feed well ?
Solved
Feeding. Deficiences
Feeding. Other
2 likes
Slurpy_Terpy
Slurpy_Terpyanswered grow question 2 years ago
Is your water level going down? Then maybe the EC is rising because they drink more water than nutrients? Did your temps increase? Considering you are in week 6 of 12/12 I would slowly reduce the nutrients anyway (if you are going to consume your own flowers at least). It could have to do with past problems causing them to not feed well, try reducing the EC to 1.2 as a default diagnosis measure then see what happens. Furthermore this link can be useful: https://percysgrowroom.com/ec-and-ph-fluctuations-in-hydroponics/ And the chart found here: https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/growing-community/373012-ec-rising-ph-rising-water-stable-in-dwc-leaves-yellowing
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
2 of them getting yellower by the day, 3 or 4 of them lost their roots under the pot and they come off very easily. Color is very dark but no slime or foam. It's too bad : I had only 2 weeks and 2 days remaining. Any idea ?
Solved
Roots. Color - Brown
2 likes
Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question 2 years ago
Sorry to see the root rot bro. I use a product called hydroguard and that seems to help prevent or at least stop the rot getting as bad as yours.
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
Are these caused by the lights too close ? Led 205w at 40cm on bruce banners that suffered quite a bit
Solved
Buds. Other
1 like
Ezzjaybruh
Ezzjaybruhanswered grow question 2 years ago
It happens on some strains and some conditions late in flower so I donโ€™t believe it just means that it needs more time.. if all your buds are making new pistils id agree maybe but Iโ€™ve seen this on one of my BBs in fact. Itโ€™s usually right up top closest to the lights and it almost looks like reveg. I think it honestly could be a reaction to too much light, or maybe just a genetic thing? But if itโ€™s just up top on a few and growth looks a little weird up there itโ€™s probably light stress
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
2 weeks remaining. Trying to figure out according to other diaries but I'm not sure. Maybe there are different densities too. Thanks !
Solved
Buds. Other
1 like
BraveheartGenetics
BraveheartGeneticsanswered grow question 2 years ago
2-5g...maybe. depends on how you dry it too. Dry her slow. 16-18 'C with 50-60% RH. Then cure for at least two months at 10-14'C
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
I would say the trichomes are filling up but how much time left till it's harvestable ? More than one week ? one week and then I flush for a few days ? Hope they survive that long... Thanks !
Solved
Buds. Other
Other. Harvest - Curing
2 likes
Papa_T
Papa_Tanswered grow question 2 years ago
So hereโ€™s a little rule of thumb I kind of go by. Once all your tricomes are milky white youโ€™ve reached peak potency. Sheโ€™s ready to harvest and from this point forward you actually let it ripen for about an other 7-10 days before giving her the chop. This is what I call the harvest window. Now it just all depends on personal preference of what you want out of your flower. Cheer friend ๐Ÿค™
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumberstarted grow question 2 years ago
I'm a bit confused because all of my ladies have new calyxes and pistils after having had previously many issues. The buds exposed to the light look nearly ready but the trichs down under are not white enough. When to flush ? Can my plants stand an extended flush and still ripe?
Solved
Buds. Other
Other. Harvest - Curing
2 likes
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowanswered grow question 2 years ago
hey there MC, new calyxes are totally normal, there is no indication by them of ripeness . white calixes sometimes turn after the chop, sometimes not. it really doesnt matter at all. this plant looks a quite ready to me, but again i wouldnt do an "extended flush" that simply doesnt exist in hydro. 12hours is plenty 24 hours max. you're ready to chop any day now. hope this helps ! ๐Ÿš€
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BATMAN_GROWS
BATMAN_GROWSweek 0
Good luck brah
spyder
spyderweek 0
good luck with the grow.... enjoy.
Organic_LarF
Organic_LarFweek 3
Hi, I recognize some lightburn i think. Is that possible? Do you got a lightmeter? But maybe its allready settled bcs next pair of leafs are good, so maybe a slight lightburn a week ago. ๐Ÿ™๐ŸŒฟ๐ŸŒฟ๐ŸŒฟ๐Ÿ™
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumber
@Organic_LarF, yes, maybe a chlorosis caused by lightburn, I moved the light at 68cm, I hope they will get better. Thanks a lot
Cox_PEVGROW
Cox_PEVGROWweek 12
Happy grow my friend,, follow for see in future ๐Ÿ‘Œ
JiggaMan87
JiggaMan87week 0
That is a nice setup bruv. I'm growing for the first time too, in soil, Bruce Banner auto from ILGM. Almost done germinating and I'll be posting pics and my journal finally. Good luck with the grow.
HAPPYWEEDS
HAPPYWEEDSweek 0
WOW, what a nice custom tent! Good luck, mate. I wish you HappyWeeds โœŠ
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrowweek 8
hey there, hope i answered your question, anything else you need just let me know ๐Ÿ‘Š ๐Ÿš€ to learn more about VPD check this out : https://pulsegrow.com/blogs/learn/vpd
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumber
@CRiSPrGrow, Thanks, I didn't realize
CRiSPrGrow
CRiSPrGrow
@Maskedcucumber, hey MC , let me give you some good advice : "it's never rare minerals" lol , i guess you had a little bit of magnesium lockout perhaps?
Maskedcucumber
Maskedcucumber
@CRiSPrGrow,Hi mate, that's nice of you. Now they have calcium defiencies because they had too much iron (bad advice). I hope I'll manage to save something...
Load more (3)
Slurpy_Terpy
Slurpy_Terpyweek 16
Congratulations making it to the finish! :D
Godesskat
Godesskatweek 6
Everything is better with a beg of weed๐Ÿ‘ป Good luck happy growing๐Ÿ˜