P1 top is 14 in from light majority of bud sights are 17โ
P2 is the tallest and it is in the net which is 15โ from the light
P3 top is 13โ from the light and majority of bud sights are 17โ
P4 top is 16โ from light and majority of bud sites are 20โ from light
P5 top is 17โ from the light majority of bud sites are 19โ from light
My last grow had 5 plants going & overwatered once & believe had some runoff that the plants sat in. I suspect this damaged them pretty significantly. One of the plants came out amazing, nice dense strong nugs. The other 4 plants have airy nugs not dense at all. What caused this?
Hi there Jlive, i'm quite sure this has to do with airflow and temperature. Different genetics are sensitive to that stuff in different ways. What's interesting is you can get different climates even inside the same tent. Make sure you have proper airflow also inside the tent to make sure the conditions are even and stable. it's harder than you think : if you measure at different places in your tent you'll see you can have quite a lot of variation. What you need to measure is the difference between the ambient temperature and the leaf surface temperature. you're looking for numbers like -2 or -3.... what you probably had last time was something like 0 or -4... something like that ... It's not a common question to ask. Hope this helps ! ๐
One seedling is very underdeveloped compared to others. Happy Frog potting soil w/ worm castings added in, light is 18" away & on day 5. Humidity: 40% Temp: 75 - 78 f but I had a sandwich bag over all the plants to up the RH. New humidifier RH 70% temp 75 f no sandwich bag anymor
Guess we are all different and it happens with the plants too.
For them to die something bad must happen but if you keep taking good care she'll grow like the others.
Also worth to note that at this phase, as you refered, the plant needs high RH. On the other hand for the roots to grow faster it's convenient that the soil doesn't stay humid too long. It's always a matter of keeping the balance.
I like to use bigger pots at start and I'll increase gradually the space between the plant and water mark in the surface of the soil.
Good luck
P3/P4 in my active grow seem like they are missing something. Any ideas? PPM of 300 with SLF100, some Great White, and Recharge in 5 gal of dechlorinated water, PH 6.47. Might want cal-mag?
I have a 5 gal bucket of dechlorinated water, ph 6.5 and ppm 300. Watering seedlings to the bucket is going to last a while until empty. I wasnโt thinking when I made it up. How long will this be okay to water with? I have bubblers in it and keep it covered.
A node is where side leaves (and later on new branches) appear. You usually should wait until 4-5 nodes have formed, unless you want to do some hardcore HST. Do not count cotyledon leaves as a node.
Looks, beautiful man. Now that your plants will have finished their vertical growth open up that temp gap between lights on and lights off. Generally we do not want more than 9 degrees less when the lights go out or the plants will stretch. Once they are done their vertical growth if we open up that temp gap beyond that it will instead now send extra energy into the plants budding process and resin production. Slowly widen it up to 10 degrees and beyond as you get closer to harvest to get real nice dense caked up buds. Keep up the great work man if you ever have any questions please do not hesitate to ask. Check out my 200 light 7,000 plant diary & follow my profile and youtube for videos. Happy growing!
@LegacyMarketFarm, thank you for this! I have been asking the question about getting denser buds for a while now. Everyone said stronger lights. I think my light output is fine for 5 plants. Yes it could be more but, for now itโs fine.