Bruce Banner Auto Fem

Simply if it takes the shape you want and especially if you see that the plant does not stress too much, in case you notice a slow growth, especially in the case of autoflowering it could lead to a poor final yield.

When it's nice and even. Goal is to have an even canopy.

Nichts gebrochen und die Pflanze entwickelt mehrere starke Triebe. Der Sinn bei LST ist die optimale Ausnutzung von Raum und Licht. Der Haupttrieb, welcher sonst die große und einzige Cola bildet, wird der Dominanz beraubt und somit gibt es mehrere Hauptblüten. Ziel ist ein homogenes Dach an Trieben, die alle die gleiche Lichtintensität bekommen

This article is great on nutrient lockot and how to fix and prevent it https://growace.com/blogs/learning-center/how-to-fix-nutrient-lockout

I would not recommend transplanting if your already in flower. I found when feeding autos use half of what they recommend. I’ll even start out at 1/4 strength and work my way up.

you could, i guess.. Many "pot" brand fertilizers make suggestions that are bat shit crazy high. You are in soil, so it is as much about art as math... you have to be familiar with how quickly the soil loses what it comes with and slowly increase concentration to compensate over time. I wouldn't feed above 650-750ppm, but i'm a soilless grower.. i need to give everything immediately and at all times. it is more of an on-demand feed. ymmv with soil. who knows what balance comes in that soil to start... it may need more of this or that before other things. This is where familiarity will build up, but before then you have to wing it. i'd take notes at which point you saw symtpoms and after if you figure it out, make a plan of action for "next" run and see how that works out... as well as what you did throughout relative to fertilizers - frequency and concentration of what was fed -- per element as well as total being important. as a baseline, check out a ppm table i have in virtually any of my diaries. Between soil and fertilizer the ratios should add up in similar ways -- you may need less or more in your fertilizer due to what is in the soil already... when soil leeched out completely, you'll want your fertilizer 650-750ppm in similar proportions to what i use in a soilless all the time. Early on in soil, 'some' runoff ensures you got the whole thing wet with no dry pockets building up dried solutes (you don't want much, cause that's just pissing away the nutes that came with the soil). Later on, if it leeches out and you are giving full complement of nutes, try getting at least 10% runoff to maintain equilibrium (this isn't necessary in super soil or if you do decide to just keep transplanting into fortified soil as you go). do make sure the whole thing gets wet, though. dry pockets are bad for both methods of growing. they can cause problems months down the line. despite the impedance that exists out there, this is about math and science even in a organice or living soil context... just more guessing going on. but, if you conceptualize it properly, the cause and effect of what you should do when a problem arises will be clearer.