Hi. Her name is Lisa. Grow started off with a little heat stress. May have stunted her grow + and slight mutation. But I dialed everything in and she’s coming back pretty quickly.
I reduced her lighting from 20/4 to 18/6. I also reduced my light strength setting to less than 40 percent of its maximum power to help her recover. Her new leaves are vibrant green with great soft plush texture. The number of fans on the leaves are evening out and the stem is growing strong. I have her on a proper watering amount and frequency from a mister. I spray to heavily moisten the soil every two three days now. I am gently increasing the light strength for her as she goes healthier.
Hey friend looking great, Good temperature ranges & humidity. Would you be okay with me offering some basic advice ? It is very important we make sure to correlate our temperature & humidity setpoints to what is called VPD, Vapor pressure deficit. All growers should learn this and get used to using a VPD chart to log their rooms numbers daily. Here is a great article on how temperature and humidity interplay to form what is called a VPD set point. This is very important to getting our plants growing optimally.
https://cerescann.com/importance-of-measuring-vpd/
There is a chart you can print off on there as well which is the chart I use. If you have not done so yet, Get yourself a PAR meter & a thermal laser temp gun like the fluke 64 MAX to better dial in your light to plant distance & optimize this to get as much PAR onto your plants as possible, Safely. Also grab yourself some light pulleys if you do not have them already they are great for adjusting our light distance.
When we enter flower our temperature control is very important to how our buds develop and finish. If our rooms are too hot, We get big airy buds that are prone to fox tail and will not have much resin. If our rooms are too cold we go in the other direction, We will get very dense caked buds but we lose out on a lot of size. We want size + density that is where the weight is. With lights on in flower, we want 77-80MAX & no more than 9 degrees less with lights off. With autoflowers & photoperiods, Once our plants finish growing vertically their response to that form of environmental stress will change. Around weeks 4-6 of photoperiods & autoflowers we want to watch for it by eye, But as soon as our plants finish their vertical growth we want to now begin to manipulate their genetic responses by widening our temperature gaps to now beyond more than 10 degrees less with lights off. This will signal the plant into thinking the end of the season if approaching and it will send extra energy into the budding process and resin production. Widening this gap a little more each week until harvest works great to simulate this seasonal change, We can also use light deprivation in the last 2 weeks & very cold feed temps in the last week, I have seen some growers on here use a very smart idea of putting ice on the top of their soil the last week for feeds chilling the substrate and water very effectively.
If you should have any questions please do not hesitate to ask me, I am always around to help. Just follow my profile & DM me! Also if it interests you check out our youtube channel and subscribe. We are currently waiting on our seeds from seedsman, The sponsor of our upcoming tutorial series to arrive then we will be launching our tutorial series on youtube to help all levels of growers learn more about growing cannabis at a very high level. We will be starting with the basics of using autoflowers for our first installment of episodes. Happy growing friend!