Really love a set of scales to keep track of weight too.
HVAC for soil, placed in temperature control with humidity reader. Constant supply of warm air supplied to roots will hopefully boost growth, being able to keep medium at optimal temperature along with an ink bird humidity reader I am taking for a test drive, going to see how well it can be used to gauge RH% inside the soil, I will be testing the validity of hooking it up to an auto watering system in future. The styrofoam is industrial grade with a high compression rating making it durable, and fairly heat resistant (suitable for use), ended up taking the heater out and placing it on the outside sucking in the hot air from the exterior, set to keep lower soil to 65-71 Fahrenheit.
Day 6 fed 10ml of Kelp Fert
Should I top it and try to fill the tent or just let her grow? I'd guestimate it takes a week or 2 to get roots into the lower part of the pot before growth will explode. (tapped green morning of day 5)
pH and EC are both critical for thriving plant health, but temperature also plays a pivotal role in achieving optimal growth. It also happens to be the fundamental parameter that's most commonly overlooked. When you think about temperature in the context of a growing environment, you could be referring to the temperature of the air around the plants or you could also be referring to the temperature of nutrient solution or irrigation water, which will affect the root zone temperature. While air temperature is important, for the purposes of this piece, I'll be focusing on root zone temperature and its effect on nutrient uptake and overall plant health. That's because a plant's root system is the location of two essential chemical processes: water and nutrient absorption. In each of these processes, having the correct root zone temperature is paramount for these to occur efficiently. In a nutshell, root zone temperature will affect the rate at which your plants are able to absorb nutrients. If you let your root zone temperature remain unmonitored and uncontrolled, this could lead to disastrous effects on your overall crop yield. Nutrient absorption is largely driven by chemical processes, which take place in your plants' roots; the efficacy of these processes is determined by the temperatures to which those roots are exposed. Once your root zone temperature moves out of its optimal range, the plant will not be able to deliver optimal levels of nutrients and water. Ideally, you should aim to have your nutrient solution or irrigation water temperature at around 18 – 22 °C (65 - 72 °F) to ensure optimal nutrient and water uptake. In addition to having an effect on nutrient absorption, your root zone temperature also affects oxygen availability and solubility. If your water is too warm, you could risk starving your roots of oxygen as warm water cannot hold as much dissolved oxygen as colder water. On the other hand, if your water is too cold, this could shock your plant roots, decrease plant metabolic rates, and stunt plant growth.
Peace out.
If you are interested in the plant's circadian clock, then check out Far-Red photons:
"The R:FR ratio of direct sunlight is about 1[.]5 during most of the day, but it approaches 0[.]6 or so during twilight when the atmosphere preferentially scatters blue light and the sky turns yellow and red. This only lasts for half an hour or less, but it is important because plants use these changes to synchronize their internal circadian clocks both with the24 hour day and the seasons. This involves a burst of gene expression activity that is controlled by phytochrome.”
“Far-Red Lighting and the Phytochromes”, Ian Ashdown, Maximum Yield, maximumyield․com/far-red-lighting-and-the-phytochromes/2/17443
@Ultraviolet, Sometimes I forgot to plan out the best photoperiod schedule and suddenly find myself dramatically shifting the timer once flowering begins. I wonder if hitting them with sunrise/sunset R:FR would alleviate any circadian confusion.
@Natrona, this was my 2 year old dragon willow bonsai, I placed it outside a few weeks back on a sunny day, forgot and it got smoked in a snow storm, thought I'd lost it. Plonked in a copper rod and she came back to life, frankentree.
@Metatronix, Well that's optimistic :)! Every little helps. I found with such a big pot it would allow for unrestricted growth of rootzone, but the water was sitting deep in medium and with the pot taking up so much space it was very hard to keep the medium warm & with very little air getting to where the roots needed it. Prime breeding ground for some bacteria & fungi.
Always been fond of the idea of automating a grow tent for the entire grow, start to finish, the challenge with auto watering was over-watering, this could also dry the medium enough within a timeframe to prevent the conditions for the bacteria n fungi in the first place.
Originally had some ideas for regular-size pots with airstones but then I got stoned and bought a 100-gallon fabric and here we are.
@Ultraviolet, I 💚 the idea ...it really could increase the yields IMO. It would revolutionize the flowerpot industry kind like the Autopot but for soil.