White Creme

Germinate. 0ppm Week 1. 100ppm Week 2. 200ppm Week 3. 300ppm Week 5. 400-450ppm Week 6. 500-550ppm Week 7. 550-600ppm Week 8. 200ppm Week 9. 0 ppm This is a good average chart to use for auto's but just know every pheno is different and can handle a little more or a little less. Hope this helps.

The less stress the better with auto's. You want them to have a nice long strong veg and by training them you can accidentally put them into early bloom or stunt they're growth. I recommend you let them do they're thing and they look great btw. Hope this helps.

def mg deficiency... i'd fix that before assuming anything else... proper amount of mg will restore a lot of lushness on its own. i don't get why potassium is being mentioned. you'd see stuff forming along leaf tips before anythign else with that, which is not occurring. So, if oyu see it progress where the serration on teh leaves are all burning at the tip or necrotic etc.. then you can consider low potassium as the culprit. i see start of interveinal with some spots.. that's mg. the thing about Mg is that when you see the symptoms, the deficiency actually started 30+ days ago. The time frame is sometimes usfeul to consider.... low p would come with symptoms too that would stand out, which i don't see here... i'm not sure what the stimulus is for believing it's low if there are no visible signs to go off of... i'd love to learn what the reasoning is despite no visible symptoms... must be intuition?

easy way -- use calcium nutriate as your primary source for nitrogen. build around it... never hve ca issues using that... also, magnesium-sulfate will provide Mg. (epsom salt) if you run into these issues, it means your fertilizer mix is lacking and it'll only continue to happen.. if oyu have a component of mix that has most or all of your Ca, you can try increasing that product's concentration in your mix. same with Mg obviously. if you cannot devise a formula that doesn't cause other issues, then you need some sort of supplement each time you mix it up or go with a different brand / set of ingredients that allows you to properly feed them. you'd also have to make sure Mg/Ca are one of the things that can actually be foliar fed -- not all molecules will make it through the stomata and i don't keep a memorized list in my head because i don't foliar feed. i use the roots, because that's what they are made for,lol. Foliar sprays are great to get what is missing to the local area faster in some situations (namely which molecules can traverse the stomata)... but it shouldn't be used as your primary source for ca/mg. Gettng leaves wet everyday is only going to invite problems. a risk you can easily avoid by simply feeding a well-balanced diet. it's s tool.. for specific use.. some just have to do more to feel they are doing something, i believe. keep it simple... plus, you can't leave.. you are shackeld to that plant spraying evey day or it'll have issues.

le foglie senza luce in basso le puoi togliere quando vuoi l'importante è lasciare le foglie ben illuminate che fanno da panelli solari...

puoi farlo senza problemi non danneggia le piante e i benefici sono per il portafoglio e il pianeta :)

Your plants want a lot more potassium, and phosphorus. Which is causing your ph to likely be high in substrate. Which causes lock out swings easily. Plus the final bud will get way better and more if you start juicing them as they hit bulking, and reducing nitrogen as flowering goes. Having good rum off is ideal as well. Testing the run off ph will tell you a lot as well. 👍🏻🌱