5 little monkey

There are several possible reasons why a plant may be flowering slowly. Here are some common causes to consider: Lack of adequate light: The amount and quality of light that a plant receives are crucial for its floral development. If the plant is not getting enough direct sunlight or if the artificial lighting is not sufficiently intense, it can delay its flowering process. Inadequate nutrition: A plant needs balanced nutrients for optimal growth, including flower formation. If the plant lacks essential nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium, it can affect its ability to flower properly. Inappropriate temperature: Extreme temperatures, both high and low, can affect a plant's flowering process. It's important to maintain an appropriate and stable temperature to promote healthy flowering. Insufficient water or improper watering: Proper watering is essential for a plant's overall health and flower development. If the plant is not receiving enough water or if it is being overwatered, it can affect its ability to produce flowers. Genetic factors: Some plant varieties naturally have a longer flowering time than others. It's possible that the slow flowering could be a result of the plant's genetic makeup. Environmental stress: Environmental factors such as high humidity, pests, diseases, or inadequate airflow can cause stress to the plant and affect its flowering process. To address the issue, ensure that the plant is receiving adequate light, provide it with a balanced fertilizer to meet its nutritional needs, maintain appropriate temperature and watering practices, and create a favorable growing environment. If the problem persists, it may be helpful to consult a gardening expert for further assistance. Remember, each plant is unique, and it may take some time for it to reach its flowering stage. Patience and proper care are key.

They are lacking nitrogen.

Hmmm. Okay. So, your issue is with you waiting so long to uppot from 5l to 12 pal. When autos leave seedling stage or within days of that. They really should be in their pots you'll be bringing her to harvest on. Most will say you shouldn't even uppot an auto as it makes stress. But, while they're still in the seedling stage. They still mainly depend on taking in moisture from the air. Hence why its the best time to get it in. As any root disturbed will be not a big deal. (But even with an uppot. It sound be no breaking up of the pot structure you'll see your sub will have when you take it out. The roots should be still reaching out. (You want to make sure you've an auto upooted before roots start to wrap themselves around the pot) as doing this with seedling makes a root ball. (As opposed to seen lots of roots at the edges of your pot. The focus should be in the centre. As that's where the roots will take up the most nutrition. 4 weeks is way to late even for a fem. But with fems if left that long you can light squash the end so it starts to crumble (roots will be able to dig deep into your new pot) as if you waited 4 weeks and then put them straight in. Your roots will kinda stay there for the most part, yes there will be some moving out around the pot. But, again, most will remain in the middle. So, maybe it would of been best to break up your structure that you got from taking the plant from the pot as it was close to flippin. (Tis why ppl don't like uppotting autos at all. As it can cause an early flip) but, you've limited her size big time by leaving it that long. There's not much that you can do now that'll have a big impact if any so, all you can do is make sure them roots get the best o2/co2 you can get to them. You'll find if you can lift you plant out of that frabic pot you'll allow air to get there. (But again. It's very late to be even bothering with doing anything mad) so let your soil dry in at least once a week to make sure your root ball that'll be in the middle of that 12L pot. As air gets drawn into your root system when your sub dries from the top, and air is pult down into your roots. If more help is needed about what I said. Please feel free to mes me Good Growing

Hi a couple of things. You say you flipped lights . To 12/12? If it's an auto you don't want to reduce the light hours. Keep em at 18/6. They look ready to start but I think they look underfed. You say no nitrogen? I'd start with some. What nutes are you using ? You should at least have a base. Calmag looks like it would help. It's about to flower so the need for all nutes increases . Then over next 3-4 weeks a pk boost will be beneficial. Calmag Base (a + b for eg) Pk boost At least these. You may be disappointed. Also it's a she 😉

Buddy, I've looked through your weeks. Those 1st 2 weeks you have in flowering.. well, she's still growing. Hasn't stretched. That's growth mate. This wk. I see rapid growth That is the case just before flowering.. You're only entering it. They'll bloom soon. Good Growing

They look like just started with pre-flowering or are about to start don't rush am sure end week u will see them stretch enjoy

He comprobado que la planta crece mas saludable dándole horas de descanso. Si cambiaste el fotoperiodo puede tardar en recuperarse varias semanas. Igual no creo que sea estrés por fotoperiodo, desde mi punto de vista las macetas quedaron chicas. Igual puedo estar equivocado.

autos need sleep, min 6 hrs is my goal. so 18/6 24/0 can stress them but fix your light schedule and it will start to recover. Good information regarding DLI by creepysteve. Good Luck!

you were worried about slow growth in a recent question, right? probably related. give it less light and it'll recover from whatever funk it is in. it may not happen overnight. use spec sheet of your light to find umol/s produced. divide that value by your area in Meters Squared, then referenec that value on a Daily Light Integral (DLI chart) with hours of use. Shoot for 35ish DLI to be safe, since they are likely light-stunted a bit. you can try to push a bit higher once they start growing normally again -- trial and error after that to find that point where no negative ramfications occur and maximize what you can give. 35-40 dLI will be the most you can give with ambient co2. do note that some damage takes weeks to be visible. so even if it starts to grow okay and 2 weeks from now you find some burnt spots or whateve ron top leaves or any bleaching of top colas, you may need to reduce further. when close to "max" it's easy to cause slow daage over long period of time. it's a good and bad thing.. good because you are super close to optimal and easy to adjust to slow moving problems with a small change.

Given the interbreeding of autos and all cannabis strains on the market some are taking a much longer period of time to switch into flower. One company called it a Semi Automatic. meaning they are a longer veg period autoflower cannabis plant. At that point its no different from a photoperiod plant in terms of time invested and photos are more forgiving of accidents from user error. I would suggest giving it a little bump down from 18/6 to 14/10 and see how they do. Might just need a bit more dark period to trigger it fully. If your lights can provide a good 40DLI in 12hrs then do 12/12, if not, have it on a bit longer. I have seen many users with this exact same type of problem with their autos. And with fastbuds plants, I grew a fastbuds Mexican Airlines years ago did not have this problem. but a buddy had it a year ago.. same strain just different batch. Good Luck! Good Luck!

Hey, these are not autos There's just no way on earth that 5 seeds (autos) are kept in veg this long. Just no no way. Impossible. Not from this breeder. I do see one is starting to sex. This happens. But, these are PP. Can I suggest you start taking one plant out after 12hrs of light and putting it into a dark place. And with 3-5 days if you see stigmata (lil hairs growing up & down your nodes) it's 12-12 dependent Good luck

Iv had the occasional autoflower that didn't autoflower and had to finish the plant on12/12