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This week I decided to try and grow my only Peyote Gorilla seed on hand. It turned out successful. I placed it in a cup of water for the typical 3 days and it cracked the seed with a root. Then transferred it to a rockwool cube where it sprouted, and it made its ways to the 1 gal temporary hydro home. Here it will stay for the next 3 weeks or so developing some roots. Mind you, this seed is well over 3 years old and has been in the freezer for the last 2 years. This photo was taken when the plant was 5 days old. The nutrient solution I have mixed for my seedlings will take them through the first 2 weeks of growth at an optimal performance. I have yet to have any plant react negatively to this. Light power is adjusted to 25% during germination period. PH maintained at 6.24, and for general knowledge I do use reverse osmosis water (zero ppm).
No stress training at all. No nutrient change is conducted until the end of week 2. I’m deciding whether to make seeds with this plant or take it to full size for harvest. Leaning on seeds. Light power is turned up to 50% at week 1.
The end of 2 weeks and she is looking strong and healthy. Roots are well developed. I’ve decided to place her in a 2 gal pail in order to get a little bit larger. Waiting for it to arrive. Will list the actual nutrient changes in week 3. Light power remained at 50% through week 2.
No stressing the plant, just let it grow. Looking like the 2 gal pail is running late. Week 4 perhaps. A change in nutrients and the plant loves it, just needs more root space in the next 10 days or so. Keeping light at 75 % power.
This plant is now 21 days old. Nutrient change and light power turned up 100%. Another week in a 1 gal pail to go then transfer to 2 gallon. Beautiful plant so far with great genetic potential.
Moved to 2 gal pail during week 5. Plant is now 32 days old as of 16 June (5 weeks 4 days). Also moved to into taller tent and 150 watt LED (see setup) set at 75% power. Changed nutrients to aggressive solution, will leave in aggressive vegetation through week 6. The LST method I’m using involves removing branch nodes, not topping, to try and control more of a cola formation. It depends on the size of the plant and the root system as to what can be a great balance.
The beginning of week 6 and the plant is performing at phenomenal pace for a photo strain. The nutrient schedule will remain the same through this week. When the nutrient PPM drops below 400 I change the water out and give new nutrients. The plant will slowly start showing deficiencies if not. At this stage checking PPM every 2-3 days becomes critical, don't guess. When a plant shows signs there is a problem, it may not be too late to correct it, but it will often take "days" to get it back on track, rarely will it happen overnight. Keep PH at 6.24, light is maintained at 75% power. Note that the top of the plant was bent, not topped, to stress and allow lower branches to catch up with upper branches in growth. Again I’m focusing on cola development.
I bent the top again toward the end of the week. I don’t strip the plant of leaves, ever, but I do cut leaves back. Every grow is the same and different, but your basic vision as a grower will become common. Almost all the branches have caught up now. A beautiful display of genetics - very evenly growing. For the next 2 weeks, beginning 26 Jun 2023, she will be in the transition phase to bloom and the lights will go to 12/12 hr phase - simply due to space limitations. Lights remain at 75% power, ph at 6.24. The change in nutrients will be posted in next weeks schedule.
This was the 1st week of transition to bloom. The nutrients have changed and lights went to 12/12 hour schedule. The plant has began it’s stretching and all branches are about evenly caught up. Maintain ph 6.24, lights at 75%, no defoliation or stress training. Just let the plant grow.
I had the opportunity to move this plant into a larger tent with a bigger light, so I did (see setup). The plant is performing well going into the second week of transition. It is showing real signs of purple now and the smell is intensifying like that of Grandaddy Purple, pre bud. I’ve defoliated the lower leaves and branches and concentrating on quality bud development. This is the most natural form of low stress training there is. There are many ways to grow, use the technique that fits your setup, situation and circumstance, don’t be worried about cutting back branches to form the perfect plant. In most cases, she is pretty forgiving of minor mistakes. Maintain a ph 6.24, light power at 75%, and 12/12 hour schedule. The nutrient schedule will remain the same for another week.
This plant grew an incredible 6” during the final stretch heading into the first true bloom week. She is turning into quite the monster and will probably outgrow the tent she’s in now. Since this is the 1st true bud week, the nutrients have been updated and (note) changed. This coming week I will defoliate and trim nodes/branches to create the desired bud sites and hopefully cola’s we all desire in a grow. Only time will show the outcome. Maintain ph at 6.24, lights at 75% power.
It takes big leaves to create big buds. It also takes light reaching every bud to produce and mature it out properly. Keeping a plant striped of these leaves will reduce bud production. Leaving them on will also reduce bud maturity. So the ideal is to know when to cut them off. When buds start to form they produce their own set of “water type” leaves, allow these to gain sufficient size to support photosynthesis without stunting the plant when striping the leaves. It’s a fine balance but easy to do, it takes patience and practice. Everyone was new at it at one time, we all learn, grow, and hopefully share that knowledge with other like minded enthusiasts openly. I have no secrets in any grows I do.
She responded well with defoliation on 13 July 23, followed up with some minor bud or popcorn removal on July 20th. Her stretch this week slowed down to 3” and has began to shift only on bud production. Maintain ph at 6.24, lights at 75% power. Every week the nutrient schedule is changed and tweaked moving in “advance” of the maturity level of the plant.
I grow for personal smoke, satisfaction, and experience. Quality flower is all I am interested in. It will make a healthier plant to grow, easier to trim, more evenly to cure, dry, and preserve. In my opinion, smaller buds are less potent and only take way from the genetic potential of the better flowers throughout the plant. A greater loss for the small gain.
I pulled the plant out of the tent to make some light adjustments, so I took a picture from above, under different lighting conditions (non-LED).
I Increased the light schedule this week to 13/11 hours. The extra hour per/day will make a noticeable difference in flower growth without interfering with the plants day neutrality systems. It will also be helpful in replicating autumn effects and maturity later on. Light power was increased to 100%. Maintain ph at 6.24
Trichome formations are looking good and it has a light berry smell.
Due to size, this plant will be moved again during this next week. It’s vigor has been incredible.
As I mentioned last week, she was moved into a larger tent with double the light capacity (see setup). I am impressed by the rapid growth and overall healthy vigor of this plant. Performing better than expected.
This week her focus was pure flowering and trichome development. She only grew .25” but it was all girth. Smell is intensifying, lower buds crystallizing and catching up with upper buds. She still has 4 weeks to go. Keep light power at 100% and PH at 6.24
In my experiences dealing with LED lights up to double ViperSpectra XS2000, intensity is most critical during flower. The more light the better. This will present a couple additional problems, heat and radiant heat. Heat can be moved and ventilated out of the area, however, radiant heat cannot - it is absorbed. So how do we deal with it? Distance from light to the plant comes into serious play. Different genetics play a big part as well. And last, switching that light power from 75% to 100% should be gradual (in daily increments). Generally if using LEDs about 1 foot is enough to keep radiant heat from damaging any flowers or leaves. But sometimes it may not be. You will need to check for signs of yellowing or flower burning, or not growing while lower ones are. Also in general terms, anything below 36-42” of the LED lighting will be popcorn bud and should be cut off. Whatever light you use, you have to understand the sweet spots and know where your grow will perform at its best within it. This is mine. Keeping the temperature up to 80 degrees while flowering is safe, anything above 90 degrees for a prolonged period will take the plant into heat stress.
This week I’m introducing my plant stands. It is a carousel design. They are lightweight, independent and can be put on/removed during growth with little effort or at the time of setup. I’ve had this idea for years, tried to find anything similar to it on line without success. I designed and assembled it about 2 years ago. It’s very versatile, can be modified for various uses and sizes, allows you 360 degrees access to you plant by rotation, brings you the ability to grow in a sea of green environment. Netting can be any size you desire and rotates with the plant. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask. Please take a look at my video this week that explains more. **The one on the plant now is actually designed for a 5 gallon bucket, I’ve simply modified it to work on this 2 gal bucket temporarily.
This week she continues to outperform expectations and needed bracing because the weight of the flowers tipped her over. This was expected and remedied and all branches have now been spaced apart to allow bright lighting to penetrate deep into the plant. This is needed to mature out the lower buds. In another week I will cut back some more of the bigger leafs to allow even more light to get through. She continues to focus her energy on bud and trichome development (girth). The nutrient schedule has been updated as she is headed toward a late bloom cycle. Her smell is intensifying weekly. Maintain light power at 100% and PH at 6.24
I would highly recommend doing your own research on the blooming cycle. The change in nutrients is still controversial, but there is new and relevant studies that show of the main 3 NPK - K potassium was thought to boost flower production, the fact is this need on the plant remains relatively unchanged from vegetation through transition up to ripening. I continue to increase K in my schedule, but have started cutting back over this past year - up to 1/3 - without any noticeable difference. I have more that lends credibility to this theory I’ll explain next week. The case of bigger bud doesn’t mean anything special unless genetics and growth are in synergy.
A quick note: I use General Hydroponics for nutrients and not this other one that is being listed, Terra Aquatica. I have no control over this update within Grow Diaries.
This week she continues to grow in girth, keeping a tight bud formation. Nutrient change has been updated. Lights maintained at 100% power and ph at 6.24. I consider the plant has one more week of a late bloom cycle before heading into the ripening cycle, which will take 10 days. Depending on several things collectively coming together.
My experiences attempting to grow that ultimate big bud - theory.
Synchronizing genetic potential and environmental variables, or ensuring synergy within the cannabis plant. Have you ever grown that big bud and it wasn’t potent enough to get anything but a headache, or that small bud that sent you to somewhere you’ve never been before? A good chance you strayed off this rather narrow spectrum. One should keep in mind that each strain has it own unique tolerance to what I’m going to talk about. So how do we define these variables; 1) make our nutrients work the best possible way, 2) provide the best environmental conditions available, and 3) use only the best known genetics we have. To break it down more: 1a) The most effective method to achieve maximum efficiency of our nutrient solutions (whatever you choose to use) is to add a fulvic acid supplement. My favorites; Fossil Fuel and Fulvex, used together, do the research, experience the result. 2a) Grow conditions include lighting, grow medium, temperature, humidity, air circulation. The brighter the light the better. Investing in a great light will return a great product. Investing in a good light will return a good product. Investing in a cheap light will return a cheap product (if you can grow a great looking plant, but flowers are not potent, this is probably why). Expect a quality light to bring in about 4ozs/.25lbs/112gms of quality product per 1000 watts of output. A root temperature above 75 degrees brings root rot without a root inoculant, I recommend Hydroguard as a preventative. Don’t wait until root rot happens to cure it, prevent it from ever occurring one way or another. Just control and maintain every aspect of your micro environment. The more you educate yourself through research, experiences, friends and forums like this the better decisions you can make with confidence. Your plant will respond positive or negative to the conditions you present it. And finally, 3a) don’t waist your time growing that mystery seed or something you haven’t a clue what it is, unless your willing to accept failure as a result. There is occasional success when doing this, but it is rare. These plants will take at least 3 months “auto” and over 4 months for a “photoperiod” to mature. Choose wisely.
So what I’m saying here is simple. You can grow that big, beautiful, potent flower. If the center cola is tall, realize that only the top 18”-24” of the plant under LED light translates into quality bud, anything lower will be a substandard grow. The goal isn’t to stretch it beyond what you think it can achieve, it doesn’t produce more trichomes or increase potency in THC/CBD levels. Under LEDs you want an even top growth canopy to ensure maximum flower production. These variables during growth have nothing to do with the end of the plant life cycle, where the trichomes and heads are manipulated and swollen. Don’t overfeed or underfeed, but meet the plants genetic potential. You’ll need to know what the plant is capable of. Do your research and find pictures, then you will begin to realize what the plant can be, a little bit more perhaps, or “their” pictures don’t look “yours”, for better or worse. Get yourself a 30x eyepiece and look at the trichomes. Are they close together, far apart, short, long, fat, slim, study the plant. Every grow is different, every grow is similar, every grow is somewhat predictable. Learn what separates the better strains. We know when the plant gets closer to maturity it has a unique smell, sticky feel, glittery or white appearance and there is a way we can manipulate the plant to produce its genetic potential during this phase. The best we can do, in my opinion, is the plants reported potential plus 10% better all around (not in potency), much worse, or somewhere in-between. My personal goal is always +10%. This means presenting the plant with a positive growth experience throughout its life without setbacks, using all available enhanced growth techniques that are considered natural or essential to plant health. Understanding organically generated nutrients should be given choice. I make no claim to be an organic gardener.
Bottom line upfront. Set your expectations correctly from the beginning. Know what your growing and forecast a schedule. You may get an exception to a known gene and grow that monster plant - by all means brag - if not then we should expect at minimum the reported genetics representative of that known plant. Nowadays for home growers, we can realistically produce the best available cannabis you will ever smoke right in your own house or back yard. It takes a little patience, time, and a lot of attention. These flowers get very jealous if you neglect them for even one day. Prepare for the long haul when you commit to growing quality cannabis. This plant is forgiving of small, non reoccurring mistakes, be most careful of nutrient errors, learn as you grow.
23 Aug 2023; I took a very close overall look at this plant to see where I thought she was genetically to where she should be reportedly by Seedsman:
1) Flowering Time: 65-70 days
I’m in the 6th week of flower, 40-45 days (give or take into account some transition time). My scheduled harvest is 10 Sept, which gives me 60 days flower time, 5 days short. With the observation of the bud structure it will be unlikely to extend the grow time, more likely the opposite, if any. The flowers are swollen and hard, but showing early signs of possible foxtailing. I don’t think this strain was bred for this trait. While the trichomes (epidermal hair and head structure) and resins (any various solid or semisolid amorphous fusible flammable natural organic substances, transparent to yellow in color, formed in plant secretions, are not soluble in water, are used chiefly for medicinal and recreational purpose) are spreading evenly with growth, 50% of the heads remaining clear, 50% milky or white, and virtually none are amber, except for a very few in the top buds. About 50% of the pistils/hairs (a single or group of fused carpels usually differentiated into an ovary and stigma) are dry or brown, except for the very top buds again which is a bit more. So it has not grow closer to maturity this week but it has grown in size.
** My transition time was in weeks 8 and 9 where the time was set back to 12 hours and reflected accordingly. (transition is more of a vegetative state *fast growing* than flower - until real signs of flowering *slow growing and pistils* is shown the plant is in a vegetative state - research for yourself, I’m just a gardener)
2) Pictures: It’s a theirs vs. mine type thing. Grow the best we can with what we have and what we know, is all we can do. Its nice to compare. We show our girls for glamore, not critique. Comparative success is everything in the cannabis world, I can get close to the best, or even better. I still have 2 weeks to go. Will that bud hold together. Its really called getting to the mature genetic potential.
Its easy for me to find that I’m on schedule to harvest early with this plant. At least one full week. There could have been several variables that influenced this, a change of lights from 2000 to 4000 watt output during week 13 - which in itself changes a lot of other factors. If she foxtails it may be a different assessment.
During this next week I will start an Autumn Cycle on 27 Aug 2023.
This is a simple ten day schedule that helps to maximum flower trichome swelling and resin developement. It simulates entrance of the autumn season and allows the plant to naturally respond, just prior to a harvest.
A) Start with a fresh and correct nutrient change.
B) For a autoflower on a 18/6 hour schedule, lights at 100% power:
Switch lights to a 15/9 hour schedule and turn the power dimmer to 75% for the first 3 days of Ripening, after that has passed - turn the dimmer to 50% and take lights to 12/12 hour schedule the remaining 7 days (change nutrients if needed).
C) For a photoflower on a 13/11 hour schedule, lights at 100% power:
Switch lights to a 12/12 hour schedule and turn the power dimmer to 75% for the first 3 days of Ripening, after that has passed - turn the dimmer to 50% and take lights to 11/13 hour schedule the remaining 7 days (change nutrients if needed).
D) Finally, flush nutrients with plain water (use RO or filtered if available), refill with a nutrient clearing solution and put in complete darkness for 48 hours, then harvest. During this time the plant will draw on its leaf matter for any additional nutrients it needs, its not starving or degrading in any way.
It is the night cycle when trichomes swell with cannabinoid compounds and more resins are produced. During this time you will notice an excessive amount of frosting or glitter covering the flowers on the plant. Light intensity and duration degrade the volatile compounds that make up these resins. Cutting back on “both” during the end of the maturing cycle will only help ensure the potency outcome.
We also need to take notice of pistils/hairs, that they are turning dark. Pistil color helps determine the maturity of the plant. Looking at surface trichomes alone will not tell you everything, the condition of the trichomes inside the plant. If the pistils are mostly white, not dry, the inside trichomes will not be mature and the plant not ready to harvest. It takes a series of combinations in both trichome head color = clear 10%, milky 80%, amber 10% *or close to that*, touch, smell, pistil coloring/dryness of about 80% or better, to determine the true maturity of a cannabis plant. This method only improves with user, grower, and connoisseur experience, expectations, and desires. Everyone has their own personal preferance, this just happens to be mine.
Always maintain a ph of 6.24 throughout the grow.
This past week she went into the autumn phase and the week ahead will be the finally of ripening. Her smell is finally intensifying with a sweet almost candy scent and the weight is obvious on the limbs. The leaves are turning beautiful colors as I’ve tried to capture them in photos. 1 Sept the light power will be reduced to 50% and time schedule will be 11/13 until 48 hrs of darkness. It is important at this phase to ensure your plant is still eating nutrients. For the DWC grower it is easy to measure, the TDS in your mixed water solution. Mine on 25 Aug started with 874 ppm at ph 6.24, checked on 29 Aug had 601 ppm at ph 6.24, so she is eating fine and is due another change/update in nutrients 1 Sept.
I also took a very close look at the trichome head color. They are turning amber slowly as I hoped from top to center, very few on the bottom. No foxtailing. Buds are remaining tight and continue to swell ever so slowly.
This week I wanted to show a picture of how I change my nutrients weekly. A simple 1/10hp transfer pump, a few feet of water hose, and some quick disconnects. The plant never moves from its position.
It has taken many years tweaking the nutrient mix I use as a DWC grower. I’ve not had any problems with under feeding, over feeding, nutrient lockout, deficiencies or toxicities, except for the few strains that are sensitive to any nutrients (whitewidow - in those cases I just cut the strength in half and feed twice a week). A weekly change is usually sufficient “unless” you have a very large plant. Not by any means it is perfect, but it works for me. I do continue to tweak my schedules after a few grows (if needed), try to stay current with new studies, nutrients, and fellow gardeners from beginners to long coats, every opinion has significance and value.
Some Cannabis growers success is more clandestine than scientific. Credit should be given to forums like this for the hands on gardener making it work in real time through trial and error. Genetics is the Key, but only TLC gets her across that line. Why keep secrets about growing great weed, spread the good word.
Next week I’ll discuss my methods of drying, curing and long term storage.
7 September 2023, I caught a couple of genetic/environmental anomalies in my grow, the debate could go either way: 1) bananas have popped out on at least one bud site. Looking back at pictures it was captured in a very early stage as of 24 August. Although unfortunate it is not uncommon for a female plant in late maturity to develop these male appendages (which in this case didn’t have time to cause the plant to produce unwanted seeds) they are very stealthy sometimes, you have to pay close attention 2) some lower buds are showing signs of new/late growth in white pistil hair development. This is also unfortunate but not uncommon in late maturity. A most fascinating plant that is constantly trying to procreate.
My assumption is that more likely than not, Seedsman estimates a flowering time that includes a 14 day transition (simple math in this case matters). The only debate here is that during this 2 week period the plant will grow faster than any other time in its life, very vegetative, after about 10 days of this phenomenal growth it develops pistils to let us know she is a female, and then begins to slow her growth down. After that, she changes her entire appearance, transforming into something else, just as beautiful but much more glamorous, forming colas. This is how she will grow the remainder of her life, it is called flower or bud. It is this time when true flowering begins. The nutritional requirements change, etc, etc. If I’m growing this medicinal herb for the better part of 4 or more months, she will need to go to the limits of her potential with stable genetics. I believe I’ve pushed the envelope with this strain, she has done well. I have no complaints.
8 September flush, filled with nutrient clearing solution and put in the darkness for 2 nights (36-48 hours - see flash picture). There is debate about this practice, my take is simple, resins are only produced in the hours of darkness, it’s not hurting the plant, the plant needs to flush. I don’t think there is much, if any to gain, certainly nothing to lose. In the end I know the taste and high will be the best as I can possibly produce and I’ve eliminated/considered this as a factor. Do what works for you and your situation.
Taking everything into consideration; picture details of the trichomes, smell, pistil color, flower time, and comparative success, she is ready. I’ll harvest on 10 September 2023. So it will be next week, not this week, when I explain my drying, curing, and long term storing techniques.
What we as growers should hold in thought is a polite word for critique, which should not be hard to do if one has never invested the time of task to begin with - my philosophy.
10 September Harvest - see pictures. While some growers leave the plant whole when they cut, I do not. It is a personal preference and situational convenience if your a home grower. I chose to cut large, long branches, and remove any whole water leaves, as long as it doesn’t interfere with the bud formation. I don’t trim yet. This is done for a few of reasons: 1) It’s my last good close-up look at her until another 5 days or more, 2) I don’t want wet leaves drying on my buds if I can help it, and 3) I occasionally like being able to shine a small LED flashlight on the flowers while its drying. Mold is our greatest problem as growers, it can destroy a beautiful grow right up until the end process. Then I hang it in a dark closet, provide circulation and ventilation. Light and heat, anything above 80 degrees F, will start a break down in cannabinoids during the dry, it is ideal to stay away from both. I’m fortunate that a humidity level of 50- 55% and temperature of 65-70 degrees F is fairly consistent and easy to maintain. Anything below 60 degree F will prevent the adequate drying out of chlorophyll. Almost all my flower routinely take 5-7 days, some a little longer, to properly dry out.
15 September Trim - see pictures. First you’ll notice the buds have shrunk up to half their original size. This is just a fact that we growers have to deal with. Due to evaporation without uptake of water, it takes about 3 days for the chlorophyll to dry up, then slowly go through a chemical change. Along with the leaves, cannabinoids also begin a chemical change after 3 days called decarboxylation. A slow process where the THC level increases while curing. You want the leaf to be dry so they can be hand trimmed easily, but you do not want that bud so dry that it starts to fall apart in your hand. Try to handle carefully by the main stem to avoid touching the bud all together. A lot of these cut leaves will be covered with trichomes, good for making oils, or other products, it’s an option worth looking into keeping it. After trimming, I do separate a few premium flowers for my first smoq. Then loosely fill wide mouth quart mason jars with about 1 oz/28 gr of product per jar. I seal the lids for a few hours to determine what relative humidity they are at, see hygrometer pic, before making a decision to put in a 62% humidity control pack of my choice or to wait, then place in secure in a cool dark place with stable humidity and temperature. It is very important to then observe/burp or exchange the air as needed, up to several times a day, until 62% rh is achieved. Once your close to to your mark, put in your desired RH level control terpene shield. If you have a problem getting there: 1) it has dried out too much, no real solution, try to put several large cut stems left over from harvest into the jars with the buds to try and increase humidty, 2) it has not dried out enough, in this case no problem, just remove and dry out a little more. This is also a personal choice, some people like it drier in the 50% plus range. Whatever you do, research and preserve. At that time burping is no longer required. Cannabis will reach its peak potency potential at about 40 or so days into the cure.
The finished product should be a perfect grind when cured correctly without clogging up your grinder, this could take a month. Now that I’ve said that, I’m sure someone has grown something that they have not been able to grind. It can remain in this state for an easy 6 months with little change, locking in all the terpenes and potencies. All you need to do is occasionally check the product to ensure there are no molds. If your grow/harvest/cure techniques are good this should not be an issue. It would not be uncommon to find many cannabis strains will last, with small degradable change, for up to one year after being stored this way. Using an airtight glass container, controlled relative humidity, maintained low temperature, and kept in darkness will equal maximum shelf life. Always avoid direct sunlight and temperatures above 80 degrees F.
The reasons I’ve ultimately chosen Deep Water Culture as a grow medium. Each has their own pros and cons indeed. I found the most efficient, less maintenance and ideal solution for my situation was DWC. Burdens to overcome depend on size up set-up; initial equipment cost, size of containers, ph monitors, air pumps, type of water to use-reverse osmosis, RO cost/set-up/maintenance, ways to transfer/change water and nutrients, what nutrients to use and schedules, takes several grows to learn and understand, a 1 year learning curv, easy to nutrient burn. The Benefits of growing in water; no dirt, no bugs, no diseases, rare nutrient deficiencies/toxicities, steady and rapid growth that enables the plant to reach its genetic potential. After harvest, there is about a 1 hour equipment cleanup, sterilization and turn around process before replanting. Cannabis will perform in so many different ways and mediums, no one way is the best and the best way is the one you are using, right. Chose what works for you in the long run. There will always be an initial cost in set-up. My advice if one were in need to cut corners, I would not recommend cheap lights. This single factor is the most critical, afford for the best. The notion that organic and water has a different taste, flavor and potency effect is absolutely debatable. The more we learn the better we grow and experience is always the best teacher.
This is what works for me and my methods of growing in general from beginning to end. A BIG “Thank You” to everyone who stopped by to take a look. My next diary will start at the beginning of October 2023 with a Forbidden Runtz Auto. There will be minor differences during the grow. I enjoy Auto strains simply by what can be achieved in a short time. No matter the strain they will unveil one thing in common, the demand for attention. Many times over it is the anecdotal gardener that surmount plant scientist. Last should I mention, do not forget to stop and enjoy the fruits of your labour...