Nutter Budder x Pistachio

Week 5 Flower: In a word, Easy. I'm thankful for these weeks. I gave the regular feedings as mentioned in previous flower weeks. Went lighter on the Buildaflower because I simply can't mound much more onto the EB's. PPFD is around 1000 at the highest point in the canopy, and that lower middle section of NBP2 (right) is sitting at 650 PPFD, not too terrible for the range across the main budsites. Filling reservoirs with 2 gallons of cold tap water every other day like clockwork. Except on the feeding day, in which there's usually an extra day I wait before filling up the reservoir, since I only top water in 1 gal per plant with the amendments. I have been feeding about every 8-10 days, not exactly every week. Might start dropping the light schedule soon by 15 minutes ever few days until I get to 10 hrs of daylight or they're done. Update: Added a Par Map of the highest points in the canopy. So NOT the Par Map of the light. But the Par Map of the light against uneven elevation (my uneven canopy). It's about what I'd expect, and the front-left or bottom-left section is likely lower than the other corners because this is the corner my humidifier and lower oscillating fan sit, as well as the cable covers for electrical, all which are black. The fan likely causes stress and from the last grow, stunted some growth in that corner. Still, that corner had the frostiest kolas in the end.. so pick your poison I guess. Anyways, par maps for reference will likely be a norm going forward. I will want to track this info myself to reference for efficiency comparisons and yields later. May be nice to see for others. If you already know how I measure these from previous posts then stop reading. I will explain my process for light measuring. 1. Buy Uni-T UT383 BT (others may work but the app I use specifically called out for it initially, and it was cheap, but BT stands for bluetooth). AliExpress or Amazon. 2. Find PPFD METER app on your app store. 3. Find your light's specifications for: A. Wattage B. Provided parmaps. (Note the light height, light intensity, and the tent sizes for provided par maps) 4. Clean tent walls and floor. Mark off your tent floors with tape or something to make sections. (I just estimated the placement though, no messing around. And you don't have to match the same amount as in your mfgs map, just use your best judgement for placement) 5. Hook up your light, match the height, and power settings listed on the provided parmaps from the mfg. A. Note: Find the best choice of light in the app that matches your lights diodes. (Example, I use the "5000K + 10% + 660 nm" for my lights. But it isn't too far off from the 3000K or 4000k spectrum results when compared either. Setting it to natural sunlight will screw your readings up bigtime) B. For proper DLI reading you must edit the hours of daylight the lights are receiving. If you do not do this when flipping to flower. You may screw up and not turn your lights up enough. Or you may turn them down when they don't need to be if you have your daylight hours too long. This is only for the DLI calculation though. 6. Use app and the easy walkthrough instructions to measure those points and then use that data to calibrate the app. (It may need to adjust, which it needs the mfg parmaps data to help calculate the difference constant.) 7. Create parmaps to save of your light's ppfd readings at certain heights and power levels/marks on your dial so you can just set it without measuring in the future. Or like me, I will use this to see how light intensity affect yield and quality over time as I use grows to experiment with. I still check it every day as if it is going to change suddenly or something. 8. Remember that it's a tool that can fail and your plants will tell you themselves what it wrong more than any tool can, at least at this point, 2023. Note: Follow proper cleaning and maintenance on this tool, it's cheap and you're trusting it tell you how much energy to throw at your plants, and that costs money. Will I buy an apogee meter in the future? I'd rather wait for a middle of the line product that doesn't require me hopping into a whole new ecosystem for my grow equipment or spending the same amount of money I could on a whole complete new tent kit. If ACInfinity could whip up a cheaper version of what pulse has with their CO2/lux/hygrometer thing that actually works and works with their ecosystem then they already have my money.