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Germinated seeds in peat pellets. Soaked peat pellets in warm distilled water, added 2 drops of hydrogen peroxide to water. Placed seeds 1cm deep in peat pellets. Then placed peat pellets in a solo cup, covered with another solo cup. Placed the solo cups on top of a computer for two days before moving into final 5 gallon fabric pots. Seeds sprouted after 3 days. In hindsight I should've ph'd the water/hydrogen peroxide mix to 6.2 ph.
Right plant looks like its starting to flower for real. The left plant seems like it's lagging or stunted. I ended up doing some defoliation on the left plant in between week 5 and week 6, and then defoliating again on the first day of week 6. Both of these are the same strain and sprouted about the same time (right plant sprouted then 24 hours later left plant sprouted). I am not sure if this is normal when growing from seeds or if the left plant is stunted.
Right plant has really taken off height wise. Have some weird brown spots on the leafs of the right plant. Going to try and put a bucket under the left plant to try and keep the DLI correct. Hope the left plant really stretches over this next week.
Anyone have any ideas about how to get the left plant to stretch? Or at this point do I just need to accept the left plant won't stretch much and just try to keep the left plant raised on a bucket?
Both plants seem to be flowering and building buds fast, but the left plant buds are much more dense and are getting some crazy colors. I am wondering if the big difference between the two plants is strictly pheno differences or if they are actually two different strains. Also dealing with some kind of defiency/pH/light burn issue on the right plant. I don't really know what to do so I am going to really change anything.
First of all, the white balance in your photos is never the same, which makes it difficult to appreciate the discolouration of your leaves.
And, to me, it looks like a generalised deficiency, so you either have too much salt in the soil, which is blocking the plant's uptake of nutrients, or you haven't applied enough fertiliser (which the rates shown on your diary, which are lower than those recommended by the manufacturers, tend to confirm).
Chugging along. I used the same white balance for all of my pics to remove that inconsistent variable.
I had been worried about the potential for mold on Lefty. I think the common advice is to not defol/prune during flower but I went ahead and did some minor defol on Lefty, strictly to improve airflow and reduce mold risk.
Also, and this is important for anyone else using the Mars Hydro SP3000 with autoflowers, DO NOT RUN THIS LIGHT AT 100% WITH AUTOS ON A 20/4 SCHEDULE! I did some more reading and figured out my DLI was WAY TOO HIGH. This particular light has lots of good reviews online and show PAR maps for the light at 100%, but do not do this with autos! I am guessing 100% works great in flowering with photos when you are on the 12/12 schedule, but it just burns the autos on the 20/4 schedule.
Get a little microscope or mag.glass to see if clear or cloudy or some amber in them (trichomes) I always go for milky/amber but more depends what you prefer,and from what i see from the photos the time to chop will come very soon +- 2 weeks .
The deficiency on the right plant just seems to keep getting worse. I have tried dialing back nutes, flushing, raising lights, lowering light intensity, etc. and just can't figure it out. I am planning to chop in about 10 days. I have been checking the trichs with a jewelers loupe and it is kind of difficult for me to really gauge the trichs, just never done it before.
I agree with Berry.
Hold off. Find the symptom that the affected leafs show. Fix and wait a few days. If the leafs that drew u to the issue are not any worse. Than you've fixed the issue
But, even a leaf with symptoms, once fixed, it is still a productive leaf. So, all in all. Id only remove if they're really bad or you want to check has your issue been solved.
Hello my friend, you can cut the leaves that show deficiencies of but you first need to make sure that it does not get worse. When you cut the leaves off before you solved the problem then the deficiencies will simply move on to other leaves. When you found the reason and your plant does not show new signs from deficiencies tgen you can cut those leaves off to prevent rotting.
Because you are really close to harvest I would let them all for what it is and when you trim for harvest just make sure that you cut away all the death leaves in between the buds. The fan leaves are not a problem in your case, but the sugar leaves are. You want to cut them when they are damaged and show deficiencies before drying!
Merry Cristmas buddy! 💚
I’d say you want to find the reason they are yellowing up and dieing, but this might be end of life fade with some burning from overfeeding. So its not real important as your going to harvest soon.
If they have any green in them, leave em. If they dead pluck em out, they should not have much resistance like a green leaf does. If they still alive and you pluck a lot out, it might add undo stress to the plant and sometimes extra stress can complicate things.
IMO: i’d leave it all alone n do a plucking before chop n dry just to clean it up a bit.
Best Of Luck!
I ended up chopping on Day 80. I removed the big fan leaves and then chopped both plants. Hung both plants upside down in grow tent. Home humidity was 40% so I added a humidifier with distilled water in the grow tent. The plants dried at 68 degrees Fahrenheit and 57% humidity for 5.5 days and then I trimmed them and bagged them both. Lefty yielded 128 grams and Righty yielded 200 grams. About 11.5 oz in total for my first grow so I am very pleased!
terpfairy
