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Purple Queen Hydroponic Grow

2
7
8
362
24 days ago
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2
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 2, 6-7
ScrOG
weeks 6
Topping
weeks 6-7
Defoliation
weeks 6-7
SoG
weeks 7
Expanded Clay
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 14
Flowering
283.87
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
15+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
General Hydroponics
13.209 ml/l
Commented by
ProGuyMJ ProGuyMJ
24 days ago
This should be the last week of nutrient. I'll be researching to make sure I do not pull to early. These girls keep getting fatter. I am 1000% sold on the hydroponic method of growing. My goal is medicinal grade and these girls, both the Gelonade and Purple Queens have coexisted well to give me what I need. I'll make a checklist for next week as my questions will lean towards better. These are awesome, but I can see my inter-nodal lengths are a little to long. I did not top nearly as clean as I could. These girls had space that I did utilize. That said, I've learned a lot this time because I did not struggle with fundamentals. Despite the trepidation from many about the complexity and unforgiving nature of hydroponics, they're easily beat. Plan on spending a few bucks. Get a chiller Get humidifiers Get air pumps (PLURAL) Air Stones in every possible place (INSANE LEVELS OF OXYGEN COUNT) Build a drain system Get monitors Build an RO water supply Mix your nutrients with a spinner, not a stirrer Get a backup generator Get backup LED These costs have all been covered with the robust crop of only 4 plants. No soil, no bugs, no mold, no root rot! I'll do bigger and better next time!
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Grow Questions
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 5 months ago
I am using General Hydroponics, hydrobloom, ryzofuel, CalMag ... and unsure of the right mix to get this rolling after the seeds germinate. Also, as I mix for subsequent topping off, which of these nutrients should be increased/decreased over time.
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question 5 months ago
Hi there you are best to look at the general hydroponics feed chart that will be in the bottles, website etc. Once they germinate they won’t need any nutrients for a few days and when you start using the nutrients it is best to start at a greatly reduced rate
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LSchnabel
LSchnabelanswered grow question 4 months ago
General Hydroponics has a feed schedule on their website for all their nutrients. You can print out the feed schedule and use that as a basis point. They break it up into a Light, Medium and Heavy feeding. I use general hydroponics as well and stick with the light feedings till week 4 then go to medium feedings. For seeds in soil I only used CalMagic for the first week, second week they got their first dose of nutrients at a light feed. Also, I only feed once per week. It’s best to get a nice TDS meter so you know exactly what you are mixing up so you are not too heavy or too light. An entry level one will run -50. Hope this helps
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ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 4 months ago
Temperatures overnight with the LED were higher than expected. (82.3F). Lights off at 8:30AM, maintained -78F duration of lights out. Lights are now on and the door ajar. Did having the higher temperature for 18 hours negatively affect the seeds?
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LSchnabel
LSchnabelanswered grow question 4 months ago
Not at all my friend. In fact recommended germination temperatures are 70-85 degrees. Would it be best to keep a more steady temp, yes, but you are well within acceptable ranges. Good luck and hopefully we see some sprouts in your diary soon! Hope this helps.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 4 months ago
27c not that bad. will be fine.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 4 months ago
No.
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ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 4 months ago
When moving the rockwool cubes to the clay pebbles ... Does the wrap come off the cube?
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LSchnabel
LSchnabelanswered grow question 4 months ago
I have always removed the wrap. I don’t know if it makes too much of a difference but it just felt right doing it so many years ago that I always have done it. I hope this helps.
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ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 4 months ago
Who has experience with using LUX meters to position lights in various stages of hydroponic growth. I feel I am giving mine too much light, based on the readings, but don't want to pull them back. Currently 10" from the plants.
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Setup. Lighting
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Dog
Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 4 months ago
If you take notes of the lux values relative to each "type" of light.. it's very useful. If the CCT and other properties are the same, then the values can be re-used under different equipment with those same specs. Otherwise, you'd want to take new measurements and similar trial and error of finding what gives the resulting "optimal" growth pattern for your environement. No matter how you measure this, you need to observe the plant and adjust to what you see and not some theoretical target DLI that is only meant as a ballpark idea and not an exact answer. It's the same exact systematic process you'd need to take with a "quantum meter" that accurately measures photons/s of PAR. The initial starting point will be more informed with a quantum meter, but you still have to go through a trial and error process to find optimal hours of operate (a commonly overlooked tool of manipulation) x intensity of light (PPFD and resulting DLI) with good distribution across your canopy. But even this isn't a huge difference because some common sense range of hanging distance is going to put you in a good starting spot anyway. Consider impace of how light spreads out very quickly, therefore it increasingly loses intensity in any 1 spot the further it is away from the light source. So, a power/hangingdistance/hours of operation combo that results in the lights being very close to the plants is find for smaller, younger plants. Except in extreme cases of diodes perfectly distiributed relative to growing area, A combo of those facters that require a bit more distance from the canopy will give better light penetration -- a complete waste early on with young plants. But once you figure it out for one context, the same lux values at canopy can be used in later life stage contexts - even if going from 18hours to 12hours. usually with a qb you need 18-24" to properly cover the footprint that 100% power and 12hours opeartion (for photoperiods, or longer for autos). "Bar" style lights can often get much closer. Working backward from your ending canopy size and distributing light to edges and corners is more about geometry - take measurements all over the place and make sure the deviation from central area to edges is reduced to acceptable levels. Start here for obvious reason. Then find the resulting power from light x hours of operation that give you the best growth. the proportions will remain the same.. if the corner is 60% of middle, it'll be 60% of middle whether you have the light at 100% or 50%. This is why the lux readings have the integrity of a 500 usd quantum meter's readings of umol/s of PAR. You'd also see a 60% reading in corner compared to central area with the quantum meter. it is 1:1 proportional in this way. the drawback to lux readings is that light with different properties will read different values for the same umol/s of PAR. umol/s of PAR is what the plant cares about and nothing else. Resulting DLI is what matters underneath. So, if you use different equipment, you may notice slight differences as to max lux you can give to canopy, but underneath it'll still be a similar umol/s of PAR (PPF) and DLI (ppfd x hours of operation, simlpy). Read wiki on Daily Light Integral (DLI). Get the gist of it. You dont need to memorize the math. going back to above how once you figure out a good luz value at canopy and hours of operation in vege phase can be translated to a 12 hour cycle without re-measuring anything. inversely proportional to the change in hours of operation you need a boost to power. so 18 down to 12 needs 150% more power, or lux. ( x 18/12 or 3/2 or 150%) In the end the same DLI is the goal, and it is proportional in this way to hours of operation. Light's dimming power is usually also mostly 1:1 but not something you can assume, but if the plants react the same, that is confirmation. (see examples of this in cocoforcannabis light model reviews.. you see the umol/s output is mostly proportional to the percent power of the light dimmer, though not perfect. learning the math from the wiki and using your light's spec sheet in conjunction with a lux meter is going to be pound for pound just as good and just as easy to optimize as a quantum meter. it jsut takes a bit more effort on your part. And half assing it is still very useful along with trial and error, as stated above. this looks like a lot.. but it's quite simple and should be common sense deductive processes to reach a goal vs anything that needs to be re-read. learn the definitions and how to perceive light and plants absorption of it. then it's just common sense from there. i'd defnitely trust a lux meter over a phone app, but the important thing to this process is that the readings are consistent, which they are. It doesn't matter if your trial and error leds you to a reading of 25k or 60klux or 900 PPF over 12 hours. What matters is that specific level of light is always "60klux", which it will be under that same exact model of light (or same exact light properties). The apps and camera lenses give inflated values by comparison, but it'll be inflated in the same exact way each time. the cheap lux meters are more directional in the light it captures - i believe is the cause for deviation. it is mechanical in nature.
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 4 months ago
I am adding 2 clones to fill out my tent. I will change to water tomorrow. The 2 Purple Queens are entering their 3 week and the nutrient mix will turn up a notch. What mix would you recommend for the nutrients? Is there a nutrient to add in this unique situation?
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Dog
Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 4 months ago
both in vege? it's old enough? the same formula is fine. There's not really at ime a plantn all of a sudden needs 1 thing. you should be providing it at all times - a well-balanced diet. sometimes you need a shift in flower with a bit less N.. maybe 10-15% less depending on how heavily you fed it in vege. think about humans.. one day a year do they need a spike in calcium? no, that's crazy. The body needs a certain amount of everything, every day. plants are even simpler. also assuming 'clones' means rooted cuttings and not 'cuttings' with no roots. A vege plant is a vege plant is a rose is a rose.
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Tommy716
Tommy716answered grow question 4 months ago
With clones, I typically use clonex by grow technology. It works amazing and dynamo microbials and that's it in the beginning. After about a week or so after transplant, I go to about 1/5 of tip of my normal vegetative nutrients.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 4 months ago
Clones should be fine with your "seedling" mix.
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ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 2 months ago
I want to put these to bloom next Sunday. This is my second grow and I have done much better than anticipated. I am looking for hints, suggestions and tips on where to take this from here?????😁
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GoldenWeedGrower
GoldenWeedGroweranswered grow question 2 months ago
I think you can posticipate the bloom to the next week and in the mean timetry to cover all possible area with the fat branches while you might consider cutting the others to give more strength to those that interest you most. I would also clean the lower area from leaves and branches in the shadow which will not give much harvest... In that way the plants should put all the energies on the selected branches that will become buds. 😉 Have a nice grow !
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 2 months ago
I am three weeks into flowering and all is looking well. I don't want to defoliate too much and do want to achieve the highest yields. Can anyone point me to a good diary for pictures? I am a visual learner and worry a little about my nodal length. Pictures are awesome.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 2 months ago
I would say to look at them for just the plant your growing. growdiaries.com/seedbank/royal-queen-seeds/purple-queen/diaries Or their harvests growdiaries.com/seedbank/royal-queen-seeds/purple-queen/harvests Kinda gauge how it looks from their, but know they might be doing things not posted in their diary. To me your node spacing looks good. May want to lollipop em a bit below the scrog net. Good Luck!
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 2 months ago
I have a couple of questions. I have added a CO2 generator with 2 lines ... where should the lines end, in the tent? Does it matter? I have a chiller running at 70 degrees, there is tremendous condensation on the buckets? Should I be concerned? Is there a method to remove? 😬
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 2 months ago
By chiller you mean ac unit?
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 2 months ago
Unless your grow tent is sealed and not venting out somewhere CO2 is a wasted product and not need for pretty much all home growers. If it is sealed and not venting out its a tool to increase temps and DLI and can lead to bigger yields. Save yourself money and just don't. Good Luck!
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ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJstarted grow question 24 days ago
Any suggestions on how to cure these and keep them in cola form. These are going to be huge and many will not fit into ball jar. Tying these up has been great for keeping strain off the stems ... but cutting them stem by stem will be interesting. Comments welcome!
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BerrySweetHigh
BerrySweetHighanswered grow question 23 days ago
You can use cure bags and let then burp once a day or use a humidity pack 62% from Boveda. The large packs van handle like 500 grams.
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Krisis
Krisisanswered grow question 24 days ago
So did you ever see those big ass mason type jars that have a spout at the bottom? Air tight unless you pull a lever at the bottom. They are used for making sun tea in.. or putting other beverages in. They’re pretty tall and I’ve seen some for like 10 bucks new. Idk how fast you need it but you could Google and find one somewhere in decent time I’m sure. They hold a lot of weed, not only that, but it’s tall. I think long colas would do alright there
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Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question 24 days ago
I know your diary photos are 2 weeks old but I'd be very surprised if they were ready to chop yet. Just make sure your trichomes are where you want them, not some preset timetable. Once you start drying you're gonna get some shrinkage... blame it on a cold room lol. By the time you're ready to hit jars you can TRY to keep your larger tops intact but you'll find keeping stuff as uniform as possible is easier to manage. Big colas(and the larger stems that hold them together)hold inner moisture longer and you'll probably get humidity spikes, etc.
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Kosyjuana1
Kosyjuana1week 14
Looking awesome! Just a word of caution though, with the nylon string. Noticed when trimming one of my old grows the trellis net fibers a few of the buds near where I made cuts to free the plants when harvesting. I'm not sure if you plan to cut or untie your stings when you are done but i think some people melt them off so the fibers don't go loose. I just had to do the same thing and tie my buds up because they were flopping around and was having a hard time finding something that would work and realized I had my roll of plant tie that came with my 3x3 ac kit
Kosyjuana1
Kosyjuana1week 14
Here is a link to a good compost tea brewer/ water aerator. You don't need airstones for this setup ,and if you don't glue it you can take it apart to clean. I have some pictures of mine in my diaries in use. I use one in a big trashcan an have it a dedicated water reservoir. Even though I'm not doing hydro it's nice to have filtered clean water ready to go, but you might need a slightly different setup. I like this because it's the perfect size for a small home grower . www.youtube.com/watch
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJweek 14
Actually I'm still several weeks away. These girls are going strong and growing daily. I'm going to go with a combination of the Terploc bags and the taller jars. I think the suggestion of using the tea jars has good merit. Not only are they bigger, the spout can offer as a burp valve. Will keep y'all posted. No worries on the early pick ... there has been no change of trichome color change, just increasing abundance.
Ninjabuds
Ninjabudsweek 14
Looks great!
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJweek 12
My grow is coming in VERY heavy. I still have 3 weeks left and have tied the colas up for stability. What are some suggestions for keeping these babies upright when they become unexpectedly HUGE.😁
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJweek 0
OK ... we got 3 up strong, 1 popping through and hopefully #5 tomorrow. Thanks for the responses. 😌
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJweek 0
Thanks folks. I have a Bluelab monitor ... so in great shape there. I see the feeding schedule and guess the question is a matter of proportions. If I add things like Rapidstart and Hydroguard .... ect. Do I pull back on the Micro/Gro/Bloom to keep the balance?
ProGuyMJ
ProGuyMJweek 0
I have purchased General Hydroponics nutrients and do not seem them represented here on these diaries as an option. Am I using this program incorrectly?