The Pistils are here.
Only 2 plants of 3 has been selected as it was intended.
EC 1.2 in = EC out. (+ 0.40 water base) = EC 1.6
50% canna coco A+B
50% NovaMax Bloom
The Red Flower 660 puck is running 12 hours per day. Very powerfull device ! love it.
The Pots has been changed for larger ones.
The Far Red 730 puck is not used anymore at the end of the day.
I note that it had no effect of promoting the transition quicker and the cons was an elongation of the stems, nothing else.
I learned a lot of things during this 1st try with these addons :
- Because we don't need too much nodes during the veg, the far red 730 is usefull to elongate the stems and fill the area without adding extra week of veg.
It works for shaping with LST and the 730 wavelenght is a serious option for a scrog. You can save some weeks of veg.
- The Red flower 660 is very potent, excellent to enhance the full spectrum of the quantum board. I really like it.
The plants needs 4 weeks to be mature. I only gave them 2 weeks of veg. It delays the first pistils even after the 12/12 switch, more with sativa pheno.
Never use the far red during the stretch and be aware that the 660 red puck can promote elongation too.
The next run, i will try to use the UVA during the second phase of the stretch, to get the nodes closer as possible. but only for the last 10 or 15 days of pre-flowering, not more.
I think the best options are to use the Far Red 730 in veg to promote elongation, UVA 390 during the stretch, and the Red 660 in flowering.
The last 2 or 3 weeks, after the bud are complete, the Uva would be used for terpenes, pigments and overall quality boost. Nothing to do with cannabinoids %.
The irrigation was under pressure with indesirable splash effect. I added a 5 bucks anti water-back valve just after the pump and it solved the problem.
If you plan to use the floraflex system, especially the FloraClip/FloraCap, be aware that you need a powerfull pump. Below 2000 l/h, the flowrate is too low to cover the surface of the FloraCap.
More the 6mm tubes are long (x8 tubes max per flow bubbler), more the pressure drops, then a reduced flowrate occurs. Mine are 30 cms long. My pump delivers 2000 l/h with 2.4 meters Pumping head H-max (specification).
If you can, choose a 3000 l/h or a pump with a higher pressure H-max. The pressure is way more important than the flow rate. (in computer water cooling, there are pumps that delivers 500 l/h but 5 meters Hmax !!, but no compliant for our use because they are not immersive). Also, use a large diameter 19/25 mm tube for the main irrigation.
That 's said, i don't have any problem with this system, all works nice. I just notice i m at the strict minimum requirement.
I have rebuilt my irrigation because my tubes was too long and i got a pressure drop and encounter some issues with flowrate.
@roxgreen, that's some great info you provided me with my friend! Some food for thought no doubt, Thank you for the detailed message, I'll definitely look at the photos you posted!
Yeah for me the challenge is the vertical hight, as I also use run to waste technique, and I do it the old fashion way with a hole underneath for collecting the water manually π so the 140cm hight is beraly enough for me, and I also applied the exhaust fan and filter outside my tent,
So I'll definitely like to see smart (!) Small setups to help me manage things better,
Thanks again for the info!βοΈπ½π±
@1_Plant_Wonder, 40x40 is very small, if you start from clone it is possible but too hard from seed and irrevelant.
i started with a DP60 (dark propagator from Secret Jardin in Europe), very cute box and setup but here again, from seed, it's really hard, or maybe with only 1 indica plant.
That's why i switch to a 90x60x98 DP90 Secret Jardin (https://www.secretjardin.com/product/dark-propagator-90/). wider, still small tent, and yes... it's the minimum requirement for flowering.
Yes i use an extractor and filter. google DF16E150 for the extractor, and DF16F150 for the filter. You can mount them outside in push mode like i did in the DP60. i have changed to pull mode in the DP90 because there is room for that. In the DP90 you can put a bigger filter if you want, it works nice and 24v, small footprint too. Check the new pics i posted for you about it.
I use both for the DP60 & DP90. A little more expensive than other brand and classic design but the integration with the secret jardin tent system is great (https://www.secretjardin.com/ducting-flange-connectors/)
I really like their flange system because you can do your hole with the tools they provide, where you want and as much as you want, even for the cable & irrigation management.
I grow for many years now in 120x120 (4x4) big tent, 3x3... but i definitly switch to a smaller setup.
Note: for the DP60, i customized it a bit by adding a water deep tray for my run to waste system. it add 18 cms in depth, require a DIY table cut out and some screws. You can watch the trick from the photos.
@roxgreen, love the smart mini setup! Wanna do something like that one day soon,
I do have a 40x40x140 but I wanna do something wider and vertically shorter...
Do you use an exhaust fan and carbon filter? If so how small is it? π
Thanks in advance!βοΈπ½π±
@Qutro, Thanks ! There are so many controversial studies and reports about the Far Red.
yes, no problem with the Red, but with far red it is another story. This is a wavelenght that we must use very carrefully.
and if we use the far red too early in flowering, it can affect the overall yields. That's why i plan to use the far red only at the late phase, when the buds are etablished, after the budding phase so.
Cannabis does not react like others crops. That said, i only experiment some aspects that i find interesting. Also, the far red at the end of the days after lights off could promote a better late phase.
I look for pigment, terpenes and overall quality, and... of course a good yield but it is not my goal to have more weight, just normal and i m fine.
I think PPFD, vapor pressure and optimized nutrients uptake by feeding with the lower EC are the keys.
Similar situatio to yours:
Due to a time crunch I have to start 3 plants for 2 weeks in a propagator tent while my current cycle finishes.
They will be hand watered in rockwool under an old 200w blurple light.
Then they will transfer to the bigger tent with drip hydroton for a few days of veg under 300w COB before flipping to 12/12.
I have to harvest at 9 weeks in order to dry and process before moving day...
Can you give me an indication of harvest weight per plant so I can plan accordingly?
@Lemonhazelover, Thanks guy :) i make this challenge to grow in a propagator tent.
I don't need more and it fix a lot of indoor issues. Only the stretch phase is critical but that's the rule π
@@FraFra__frankenstoner_Two_days_in_a_day, Hi ! because a plant need active leaf for photosynthesys even at very late stage.
There are enought PPFD here. Photosynthesis, and vapor pressure are the key. Defoliation come here to de-stock the nutrient a bit, during the ripping phase.
the photons conversion need power, and it comes from the leaf, not the fruit.
hi ! i never defoliate late in flowering. It breaks photosynthesis and force the plant to make new leaf.
I will just do a bottom defoliation the last week to help the ripping phase.