You should make it to harvest if you just keep feeding water only. It'll hit your yield, but if you take care of them from here out it should be okay.
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Strawberry Gorilla and Banana Purple Punch - Newbie Grow
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2
Closet
Tent
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 5-6
Defoliation
weeks 5-6
99%
Soil
Grow medium
1%
Other
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 9
Flowering
27.94
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
13+ conditions after
Login
Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
water ph 6.3 citric malic tartaric acid blend
999.891 ml/l
Grow Technique Usage
Recovery flushing overnuted+pH
Technique
Commented by
Aleatoric3 months ago
The sense is strong that I am losing these gals to all the typical reasons a newbie might. I'm needing help, for sure. Seems whatever I do things get worse. Here's the scoop:
Determined two things: 1) Too much Grow Big 6-4-4 and too long used (so into flowering) Nitrogen toxicity .. affected small plant (Strawberry Gorilla) much more due to lack of room to put it all. And 2) Possible pH error ... thinking my pH 6.8, 6.9 range was OK ... since I was watering with syringe into side holes I never had runoff. Someone mentioned pH 6.9 too high, so I read more on that and yep, I should be around 6.2-6.5 during flower. So I checked my water (well water) which is around 6.9, and altered it with winemaker's acid blend (what I have) until around 6.3.
I've now flushed both plants. My water TDS is about 110 ppm. The small one had a ppm of around 900 at first ... got it down to maybe 400 (ish). That was last night (the 20th of Feb). Today I flushed the bigger plant (Banana Purple Punch) ... it's a 3-gallon pot cut down .. let's call it 2-gallon... ran about 2 gallons through it. Considering doing that again.
My runoff pH seems to be in the 6.4 area .. that's OK?
If I'm flushing to try to rescue plants from nitrogen toxicity/nute burn, what ppm should I be going for? And what pH should I be using? 7.0 or 6.3?
Flushing as a practice itself is debatable ... so I'm not sure about it at all, for the "final flush before harvest thing". I'll keep reading the people arguing about it.
IF (note the bif IF!) these gals survive (I will say the little one is showing signs of improving on some smaller leaves already) should I then use the Big Bloom and maybe a tad of Tiger Bloom? What about a tsp per gallon of molasses?
Probably really close to harvest ... don't want to lose my meager harvest now!
The BPP is exhibiting some really cool development in the trichomes and buds ... the SG has some, but is pretty stressed, and behind schedule so I might be lucky to get a few decent small buds from that and chalk it up to learning.
Thanks for your eyes, time, expertise, opinions, and any support .. even if you have to get snarky to get your point across .. : )
Cheers!
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Grow Questions
Aleatoricstarted grow question 4 months ago
Should I cut off the lower bad-looking leaves on the Banana Purple Punch? Are they detrimental to the plant? Not sure they could be helping anything.
Open
Leaves. Curl down
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Answer
Jaindohanswered grow question 3 months ago
Let the plant eat them for resources if they're not literally heavily damaged
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AsNoriuanswered grow question 4 months ago
no, do not rim anything, let plant grow, bush out, then manipulate heavy. now just big care and tlc.
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Storkanswered grow question 4 months ago
You are the boss you can do whatever you want you can top up also if you want or more... some will say is auto do nothing... Still, I will say no need to cut just because you do not like the leave
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Aleatoricstarted grow question 4 months ago
What is the consensus on the start date for vegetative weeks? Is it when the seeds pop, or when the sprouts emerge from soil? I'm getting conflicting answers ... and it almost seems like it changes my whole schedule of expectations, especially comparing to others' diaries.
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Other. General questions
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Answer
Boomer911answered grow question a month ago
Slightly confused here because different websites gives you different start dates , the same like grow apps that "autofollow" your strains.
Week 1 of Veg should by books and other plants starts with true leaves , but that would mean I would have to turn my weeks back 1 down
5 Days Germ - 1'st week starts .. I would say..
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AsNoriuanswered grow question 4 months ago
i do not presoak and count first 7 days since seed touched soil as germination week, rest veg till 12/12 flip, then flower.
but everyone counts diferently, its absolutely irrelevant.
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AutoflowersSucKanswered grow question 4 months ago
When the seed emerges, it has to prepare for vegetative growth. That's why for the first 2 weeks it looks like the growth is stunted and most new growers think something is wrong.......nothing is wrong and everything is right. It's anchoring itself into the soil with it's tap root, and then it begins forming roots that branch off the tap root and begin to explore the soil. That's truly when vegetative growth and begin to take place.
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Aleatoricstarted grow question 3 months ago
Should I cut the bucket down to give airflow and access to the side of the plant? Doesn't look like it wants to poke up, and I wish I had the foresight to add more material before planting, but I was assuming the plant would be taller by now.
Open
Plant. Too short
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Organomananswered grow question 3 months ago
No don't worry, everything will turn out fine.
But yes, always fill your containers right up to the top!
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Incognitusanswered grow question 3 months ago
and, lol i thought it was some translation error.. no i wouldn't cut the bucket down.. if you have some air currents, it'll be fine. remove any leaves pointing down into substrate..
if you really wanted to, once it's taller you can add an inch or two of substrate if you wish.. i wouldn't bother though. When you transplant, before you bury anything, place the put into the hole you dug... is it at the right level? if not dig some more or fill it in a bit to get it to the right level. i try to get a layer on top of the transplant. if you ahd good watering habits, you shouldn't have any superficial roots, so removing a 1/2" off the top of a transplant isn't too big of a deal either -- one more tool to level it out the way you want.
When i transplant a larger plant in a 1gallon (vs seedling pot), i dig a partial hole with a slgihtyl udnerfilled pot. this way i can level it out and work the substrate around it to hold it steady exactly where i want it - e.g. if tilted i gently lift it and push some substrate under or pack in one side to hold it more vertically. Once sufficiently positions, then pour in some from sides to fill in the rest... hold the leaves up with one hand and dump it in, then level it out. Jst work your way around. this part doesn't take much ... dump and level. I do one half then the other. Make sure if anything is not even it is concave and not convest.. between the two options - water you put on top rolling (gravity/slope) toward center is better than toward the edges. It makes watering more of a pain to ensure no dry pocklets if ther's a slope or uneven top... the low side will sink in faster / gravity will pull it that way as you water the top... i have a sloped platform.. i slightly favor the high side with my drippers for this reason.
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Incognitusanswered grow question 3 months ago
It doesn't look like the nodes are too tight. slow growth could be from genetics or the substrate if not the best... even the balance of nutes -- though in regard to nutes they look fine... probably just a bushy, short plant.
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Aleatoricstarted grow question 3 months ago
Asking opinions here, preferably with reasoning, or link to such. I find too many opinions, and am unsure of what stage I'm really at. Question: WHen do I stop with the LST manipulation stuff, or does it continue to varying degree until near harvest? Thanks!
Open
Techniques. LST
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Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question 3 months ago
You train as long as you need to based off what's happening in front of your eyes, not the internet.
For instance in my current grow I tied branches throughout veg but took them off for the stretch(they were beefy limbs and held their shape pretty well) so it wouldn't pull or bite into branches but then I later reapplied some to even the shape back out post stretch.
Beware any advice that's linked to a certain 'week of growth'. ANYTHING you do training wise should be linked to your plant's growth and not some imaginary timetable someone makes up. Different strains, even different phenotypes within a strain, grow differently and there's no one size fits all answers to growing- no matter how catchy something read in that 6th grade Physical Science book 40 years ago, biology is a little more nuanced than that.
Experiment, learn and have fun with it. Over all my years of growing(yeah I'm old too)one big thing I've learned is it's really hard to screw up so bad you end up with nothing if you're mildly competent, cannabis is a very hardy and resilient plant. In the end you'll become a better grower who can adapt to many situations and environments vs someone who just follows directions. It's like knowing how to bake a cake from scratch vs making a box cake. Both end up as cake but who's really the baker? And what's the box guy gonna do if he's out of mixes and only AP flour instead of cake flour?
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 3 months ago
There is variation in growth patterns, so there is no 1 answer to that question. I have some seeds from 2 inhouse plants that need to be trained until about 10 days into flower before i let it grow vertically (about as extreme as it gets).. or, i end up with a 3' deep canopy and too much larf at the bottom. Other plants need to be ready at flip to flower in order to give my target of 18-24" deep canopy. Relative to my local environmental factors (lights, climate control et al). This is the best zone of buds for me - YMMV, but the variance in growth patterns are not within our control.
You typically want to leave any tie-downs and such until the end. It may seem like it is rigid, but over many weeks it will try to bend back straight, even if slightly it can make the canopy more uneven than it needs to be. I have some plant benders i remove only because the stems will eventually get too thick for them, but then i tie it down with some wire near that bend. A trellis can help too.
So it's a total guessing game unless you've grown the plant before (clones)... the stretchy ones can be HST'd if they outpace shorter plants .. the unusually short ones just suck a dick. if you can use a riser for those to keep them even that's great but using something like a trellis can often make that very difficult once the plant has grown into it.
don't need 40 years to figure this stuff out :P It ain't rocket science.
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TheUk420Showanswered grow question 3 months ago
you can contiue to lst all the way through flower though because the plant does not grow vertically anymore but what you can do is in a few weeks is try spread the colas out so they get uniform light distribution try ease off on the defoliation because she will stop growing new fans soon and you need them to make buds bigger :) best of luck buddy.
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Aleatoricstarted grow question 3 months ago
Is this maturation starting to happen, or is it indicative of nutrient burn? I dont' know how to tell.
Solved
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 3 months ago
As long as it isn't too early, not likely an issue and normal. Pistils do die, turn color, and coil up / swallowed by fattening calyx around it.
It can also be a sign of pollination. You'd have to look around and consider context to eliminate that as the cause. e.g. i don't worry about pistils turning color as i near 42 days of flower, give or take... development rates vary.
You'd see issues n leaves before pistils, if nutrient related... not sure if tehy can be affected by such a thing under normal contexts... dumpster fires excluded.
Aleatoricstarted grow question 3 months ago
Alluding once again to my sloppy method: Which is which?
One is Strawberry Gorilla Auto, (Sativa dom) and one is Banana Purple Punch Auto(Indica dom). Do I have them backward? Tried to keep seeds straight. Based on leaf shape? THX!
Solved
Other. General questions
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 3 months ago
once interbred it gets jumbled, see process of "meosis"
so, at that point hard to say one or the other is specifically indica or not because that's just a matter of coincidence that those traits were correlated with a particular plant in a particular region etc etc.. the lankiness is not the cause of any perceived different in high, for example.. merely correlated due to how it evolved in that population of plants.
the 2nd picture is clearly shorter and stockier. Historically that would be the "indica"... but once interbred, you could potentially have very sativa traits that are less susperficial and a short stocky plant that resembles a former "indica" classification despite that fact. These are low-resolution terms that don't always tie to reality of what is occurring.
if the descriptiosn say one is short and stocky, that 2nd one is most likely that strain... can't be 100% certain, but it is the best guess.
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Jaindohcommentedweek 92 months ago
Jaindohcommentedweek 43 months ago
Hey, everything is a learning experience. Try mosquito bits (spinosad crumble shit you put in water for mosquitoes) topdressed, works for me. paper if needed is good, but id rather safely poison the bastards. The big one is definitely a keeper. I have terrible luck with autos myself. When they're having problems (which is easier to avoid as you progress, true) you dont get to just veg them out another 2 weeks until they recover. Photoperiod gives you the control. Multiple of my harvests of autoflowers vegged for like 9-12 weeks and took at least as long as photos to finish (suspect its the older "blurple" lamps responsible, but still).
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Aleatoriccommented3 months ago
@Jaindoh, Thanks for your encouragement! I kinda came to the same conclusion regarding autos. Especially since I'm indoors and even still because I'm very new at this, as well as trying to control costs (electricity is expensive here) and have not as much climate control as I should have, I definitely should be doing photoperiod plants. I have a couple more auto varieties ... maybe I'll try those outside or in the greenhouse over the Southeast Alaskan summer. It's very foggy/rainy here from August on, so not super sure about that. We've got a pepper plant actually growing in the window over winter, actually has flowers! Not much, but, I could do that with photoperiod cannabis, and take my time.
By the way, I noticed a growth spurt in the little guy just last night. There be hope!
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Jaindohcommentedweek 33 months ago
Followed for your first grow! They probably don't quite need fertilizer yet, but it shouldn't hurt anything. If you're trying to increase vigor and growth, try getting a fan to lightly rustle the leaves (not shake the whole plant). Fox Farms is how I started myself!
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Aleatoriccommented3 months ago
@Jaindoh, Really appreciate the input. I think I'd do everything a lot differently, were I starting over. But for now, just trying to make the best of things. I suspected stigma formation yesterday ... confirmed today. Not sure my situation is god for autos! I'll work on a small fan ... it's a double-edged situation, that, as the humidity dips really low quickly due to cold and wood stove.
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Aleatoriccommentedweek 43 months ago
I just read comments on another's diary where they had short plant. As result I just went and dimmed my light ... maybe it will cause more "stretch".
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Aleatoriccommentedweek 34 months ago
Thanks everyone, for your input. For what it's worth, those leaves are looking better today! Tried to mark an answer as "the one" but the clicky thing does not work. I'm leaving th eleaves unless they fall off.
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