First Grow Ever

don't spray the surface.. that'll only promote superficial roots. might make you feel ike you are doing something, but that somethign is not helpful and even potentially harmful. Always water entire volume when you do... never just the top layer or a portion of it. allow it to dry some minimal amount before repeating. coco is asoilless substrate, so you should be fertigating every time with 1.3-1.5EC well-balanced feed with 10% runoff -- do not let it sit in its piss. that waste water can be used on plants in the earath, but not good for potted plants.. or simply toss it down the drain. Wait for top layer to change color, then repeat (feel weight after irrigation and when top layer dries. this is a better trigger and results in same volume of water needed each time -- you don't pick this volume of water. your substrate's properties pick thsi volume - yougive what is needed to accomplish the task not some number you want to give) seedlings and clones you want to water a bit sooner. I would not let a seedling's substrate dry up top for first irrigation after sprouting, but after that the roots are certainly deep enough to adhere to the above suggestion. clones need to be babied a bit longer as they won't have roots for 10-14+ days. the substrate can't dry out as much in this context of no roots. wet-dry cycle promotes deeper, healthier roots. If the plant has to seek out water a bit more, it grows more roots. You can increase frequency of fertigation later on after a massive root system has formed. I don't let my substrate dry out as much in flower phase, but you still want a mnimum 25-33% loss of weight (that's 99% water weight less any mass of plant growth which is small potatoes by comparison - obviously a more mature plant weighs more, but incremental additions are still small relative to water mass lost/used) don't let ocd dictate your behaviour.. let the plant dictate behaviour.. don't come up with numbers on your own.. let the facts dictate how much water you need etc... too often it is more about someone's personal needs (maybe caused by anxiety etc) rather than just allowing the facts to dictate. sorry for this going into comment section of diary. i removed that mis-post. Glad i noticed early on.

If you are growing in (pure) coco coir, you will need to start feeding basically as soon as the plant starts growing. Coco coir has zero nutrients. No need to wait until the coco dries out, in fact it should be constantly moist. It should be impossible to over water in coco. Coco is basically hydro in a potter and has very little in common with soil growing.

Wait to five internode and top at that time. LST start gently when girl have enough stem and branches to be pull down. Don't rush them, be patient . I like to topp at week three first time and afther week or so second time.

What I do is too early and go of two sets of node in a north,south,east and west fashion and tie branches down. Scrog is best but tying down works. Keep pulling down the tallest and if needed topping or removing the fan leaves feeding it to slow it down. Remove leaves and that are low down, lollipoping it’s called . Remove other leaves blocking growth tips. This will make them grow. I sort of aim for about a foot or less sometimes deep where the buds will be. The sweet spot of light. Tie down before defoliation as you will only know what needs removing . If high humidity is an issue then I would defoliate more and remove some branches so there is no’busy’ areas where mold usually first starts. Tying down is hardly any stress for them and it opens the plant up so light and air can get to otherwise covered areas. Look into mainlining. Veg time can be long but it’s worth it. I have a diary or two with mainlines done. This way or scrog are best two ways imo for indoor growi

Looks like your branches are starting to break off from the main stem. This can happen but is easily fixable. Tie that branch up to take the weight off it. In no time it will heal back up. I had an outdoor plant split directly in half down the main stem like a “Y”. It took two people to push it back together and tie it back together but it 100% rebounded. These plants are very resilient. Hope this helps.

I checked out your grow diary and it looks like you are Low Stress Training your plant. That is why she is so short. You have successfully gotten her to grow out instead of straight up which will maximize the amount of bud you will get from this plant. Your light is perfect at that height. It all depends on what intensity your light is putting out though. I would download a PPFD App on your phone and check what PPFD you are giving her at the top. In veg a plant should be roughly around 350-450 PPFD for an 18/6 schedule. Pre flower would look like white pistols coming out of the base of the nodes right where they attach to the stem. I hope this helps.

When growing cannabis, especially autoflowering strains like Dos Si Dos Auto from Barney's Farm, it's important to adjust your feeding schedule according to the plant's growth stage rather than solely relying on the presence of pistils. Here are some general guidelines for feeding your plants during the flowering stage: Transition to Bloom Nutrients: As your plants enter the flowering stage, they require different nutrients than during the vegetative stage. Transition to a bloom-specific nutrient formula that is higher in phosphorus and potassium to support flower development. Begin this transition gradually, reducing the nitrogen content. Monitor Pistil Development: While pistil development can be a good indicator that your plants are entering the flowering stage, it's not the sole factor to consider when adjusting your feeding regimen. Autoflowering strains may start flowering earlier than photoperiod strains, so it's essential to monitor the overall growth of your plants. Adjust Nutrient Strength: Increase the strength of your bloom nutrients gradually as your plants progress through the flowering stage. Pay attention to any signs of nutrient deficiencies or excesses and adjust accordingly. It's generally recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as needed to avoid nutrient burn. Watch for Pistil Formation: While you mentioned seeing some pistils, keep an eye on the overall development of pistils across your plants. Once pistils become more abundant and flowers begin to form, it's a clear sign that your plants are in full bloom, and you should adjust your feeding regimen accordingly. pH and Flush: Ensure that you maintain the appropriate pH level for nutrient uptake, typically around 6.0 to 6.5 for soil. Additionally, consider flushing your plants with plain water periodically to prevent nutrient buildup and maintain plant health. Monitor Plant Health: Throughout the flowering stage, continue to monitor your plants for any signs of stress, nutrient deficiencies, or pests. Adjust your feeding regimen accordingly to promote healthy growth and maximize yields. By following these guidelines and closely monitoring your plants' development, you can tailor your feeding regimen to support optimal flower production and overall plant health. Remember that every growing environment is unique, so it's essential to observe your plants closely and make adjustments as needed based on their specific requirements.

Basically your plant topped itself , which will now encourage the two branches below it to take over . So instead of one main cola at the top you will have two . Good luck Mate 👍

Es normal. Son hormonas de enraizado. Si agregas sustrato a su maseta hasta el nivel de los puntos blancos saldrán raíces.

Hey there! It sounds like you're doing a great job with your Dos Si Dos Auto grow. Giving your plant nutrients once a day a few hours after the lights turn on is a good practice, especially in coco coir where nutrients are often needed more frequently compared to soil. However, be cautious not to overfeed, as this can lead to nutrient burn or other issues. As for the amount of water you're giving your plant, 1,250 ml sounds like quite a bit, especially for a 4-week-old plant. I'd recommend monitoring the plant's response closely. If you notice any signs of overwatering (such as drooping leaves or soggy soil), consider reducing the amount of water you're giving it. Always allow the top layer of the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent root rot. Regarding using a riser for your pot, it can be beneficial for ensuring proper drainage and preventing waterlogging in the bottom of the pot. Just make sure that there's enough space between the bottom of the pot and the tray or saucer to allow for adequate drainage and runoff. You want to avoid letting the pot sit in standing water, as this can lead to root rot and other issues. Keep up the good work and happy growing! If you have any more questions or need further advice, feel free to ask.

Esta perfecta, Sigue así, no hay mucho para hacer, solamente puede sacar algunas hojas más grande de abajo, porque a estas no le llegará luz y no servirán para nada.

Hey there, congrats on your first grow! Installing a scrog net can definitely change how light reaches your plants, and it's not uncommon to see some leaves and buds in the lower parts of the canopy getting shaded out. It's totally fine to remove those shaded leaves and mini colas if they're not getting enough light. Just be gentle when you're pruning, and make sure to use clean, sharp scissors to avoid damaging your plant. Removing those shaded parts can actually help your plant focus its energy on the top buds where they'll get the most light and grow bigger. Since you're in the third week of flowering, it's a good time to do a little cleanup anyway. Just make sure not to go overboard and remove too much at once. A little defoliation can help improve airflow and light penetration, which is great for your plant's overall health and bud development. Keep an eye on your plant after pruning to make sure it's recovering well, and you should see those top buds thriving in no time. Happy growing!

You need to redo mate.. Take away your net. Its far too close for any substantial growth.. 30-45cm away. You need space for the nodes to grow out during veg. Have a look at my unfinished diary on scrog. Sour strawberry..

supercropping or hst is your friend in this situation . simply pinch the branches to be bent until you feel them "give" they will then healup forming a knuckle which strengthens the branch another tip I see you have asked multiple questions but selected very few answers if you are happy with an answer to your questions please select it so that it is resolved and won't keep appearing in the open questions section Cheers mate 👏

When using SCROG method it’s best to remove anything below the canopy because they will never produce. Kyle Kushman (the king of plant training) said he trims pretty much everything below the net. That includes leaves and nodes. So my suggestion is to remove those two pieces and more foliage that will not get direct light. This will force more energy up to the stop to produce huge buds. I checked out your diary and it looks like you could weave your canopy a little more if you desire as well. Hope this helps.

off to one side is preferable because hot air will sit directly between the light and the tents roof you don't want to be blowing hot air back down onto the plants but rather creating a gentle movement of air across the entire growing area

as long as its not creating an issue for that closest cola then It should be fine Mate if it is then maybe try and tilt the fan slightly away from its current trajectory

From the looks of it I would continue with what you're already doing - they're looking good so far! Autos don't need much nutrients compared to photo plants and grow on their own schedule. She'll keep on growing and blooming for a bit still. Happy growing!

Its enzymes that had little access to air movement been fiber pots they should have good air flow around them pal. As if you use these pots. Been breathable if you're blocking 50% of the pot it can only do 50% of its job. All you can do is increase airflow around your fiber pots.

If you are growing in coco and run off is reading 6.3, that is lock out for a coco grow. Like on the line. Flowering npk ratio is 1-2-3. Of I remember right you are doing coco. I would flush it till the ph comes down in you run off reading. Then re apply fresh feed to refresh your coco from the flush. 6.1 to 6.2 is ideal for potassium, and phosphorus absorption in flowering stage.

i would HST the tallest branches so it is all even, then if that is still too close, yes, raise the light. It may "seem" fine but eventually being that close will do something. Watch out for singed pistiles - the buds will have a yellowish nub look to it instead of hairs. this may start as a small dot or 2 and expand slowly. Leaves at the top will start to show symptoms while rest of the plant is fine. Later on you may see a bleached bud at advanced stages -- top of bud will just be white. Also, if the top colas turn puprle while the rest of the plant is a different color, that too is a bit too much light, but compared to bleaching is nothing so bad. Those colas will ripen faster and you can harvest the top couple bud sites and let the rest ripen if needed. when deciding how to train and when flip, always work backward from a specific goal to keep you on track. You may not always hit it, but even being close is better than blindly choosing a path. 2.5 colas per sq ft.. start getting familiar wtih how much stretch to expect... even so, this won't be the last time you grow into a light.

Personally I think you started flushing a week or two early buddy. thing is with only going by the trichomes they all mature at different rates so maybe that bud looks cloudy but others wont be mature that's why people do partial harvests which is actually something I would advise here. adding any feed now would be pretty pointless. there are a few more signs that "most strains" will tell you before harvesting a large one I l;ook out for is that the pistils of the buds have curled inwards and look like they are drying up also most strain will give off a pungent smell yet another sign that a cannabis plant is ready for harvest this plant still has a lot of white pistils this signifies to me she is still searching for male pollen meaning she is still growing and trying to bulk up to create more surface area and more pistils to try and catch that male pollen. with autos they are very finicky and the gene ruderalis is generally new in the cannabis world I mean the guy that invented it or discovered it is still alive today. its pretty audastic to make the claims that some breeders do in my opinion because from my experience unless you have perfect growing conditions you will never finish an auto in the time that it states some people can and get great results but never found that to be right. anyway you haveto keep in mind what your are going for when selecting a seed or style of growing it is possible to get a tent full of bud in 10 weeks using methods like SOG and 12/12 from seed so if speed is something you are after this is almost a solid option to get the yields in a short time frame I think the ruderalis gene has not been "perfected" yet meaning I find it still an unstable gene in my opinion some breeders make better autoflower seeds than other that's just fact but yeah I'm getting a bit off topic here lol what I was trying to get at is that most auto flowers take just as long if not longer than most photoperiod hybrid or indica plants so I find them pretty pointless and the fact you cannot clone them nor can you reveg them just takes many tools away from the grower toold used that can increase yields and plant health and even breeding. anyway congrats in growing a nice plant we all make mistakes that's how we learn as growers so don't let it get in your head you've done a great job here :) best of luck for the dry and cure :)