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To be clear: I post the week's info at the end of the week. So I'm writing this a full 8 days after actual germination, and now have seedlings (2"and 3") showing true leaves forming.
1 each: Fastbuds Gorilla Zkittlez Auto, Orange Sherbet Auto seeds, plunked into water 6.5pH (well water amended with calcium carbonate and winemaker's acid blend) with some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. Soaked only overnight and saw the seeds had split the next day.
I planted the seeds 1 knuckle down in a seedling mix I made (by gosh and golly) at approximately 75F-80F. Maintain humidity up 50-70%RH Yes, I labelled them this time!!! The seedling mix consisted of a small amount of Happy Frog mixed with some Black Gold potting mix,a bit more vermiculite and some perlite ... steamed in a colander in my 15 gallon brew kettle. (to eliminate pathogens). THe mix was drained and dried to a "no drip" when compressed by hand.
I planted them in homemade cardboard seedling cups. (Note: I've already made bigger ones, and transplanted, albeit prematurely). I don't think the seedlings' roots would penetrate through this cardboard, so next time I'll make cardboard or carbon filter "dividers" to lift straight up, so as not to disturb the plants, but still have control over the watering.
The transplant was not great, in that the root ball had not developed so it was easy to screw it up, trying to keep it all together. The Gorilla Zkittles was too high, so I've "coned" additional soil to help support it.
A repurposed freezer icemaker fan blows a breeze into the incubator, which is kept at approx. 77F during "day". Spider Farmer light hanging lower now (it was at 24"/50%, but now it is lower as I felt I was needing to combat stretchy legginess).
Temp and humidity monitored by a Bluetooth sensor, as well as monitored/controlled by Inkbird. There is a heat mat at the base of the incubator. There is a fish tank air bubbler pump with hose connecting to two small jars of water ... this is sufficient to help keep the humidity around 52%. It raises to 60% approx when I have the damp towel hung over the side of the incubator.
Currently also sharing the incubator with other seedlings (kale, lettuce, cabbage) so they can benefit from the warmth and light.
Soil temps seem to be fairly stable at 70-72F
I turn the light down at night, so mornings and evenings (18/6 cycle) are less intense than midday .. .which I set to approx 65%. I also tun the Inkbird temp controller to 72 (from 77) at night. I have no idea if this helps autos or not.
In the meantime I've boiled the infested (fungus gnats) Ocean and Forest soil from my last grow. It's been spread on tables drying over the last week. I'm amending it with all sorts of things, various amounts of the following: Moose poop, vermiculite, perlite, rice hulls, coco coir, Epson salt, Grow Big, Big Bloom, coffee grounds water, biochar (from my wood stove), diatomaceous earth, will be adding in Big Foot Mycorrhyzae Gold, and likely other things? Oh yeah, spent grains from the last beer I made, will be adding some of the trub from that beer when it's done fermenting. I've got an outdated soil test kit and will be using that to analyze my soil, to make sure nothing is too hot, but trying to make sure it's got what the plants need, but no, or very little time-release Nitrogen! Should be interesting, huh?
I'll transplant sooner than later, so the roots are not affected (too much). I don't want these girls to know they are being transplanted. The current larger cardboard pots I made have a layered soil: Pure Black Gold potting soil at the top, arranged in a "v" shaped cross section, so the roots will have easy time going through that, gently, then into the surrounding later of less potting soil and some of my new build soil (with minimal nutes added) and finally into yet another layer with straight new soil mix, a slight bit more nutes, mainly the worm castings/bat guano one from Fox Farm. When I transplant they will get the mycorrhyzae as well as another layer of pure potting soil to ease the transition.
This Gorilla Zkittles seems to be stretching awfully much. Also, of more concern, the small leaves are twisting, as if too hot/dry. 78F, light is about 14" up, RH% setpoint 56%, leaf temps seems to max out at 76.5F. Should I worry? Or what? Thanks! VPD is 1.2-1.6 depending.
1.2-1.6 is fine.. this is based on atmospheric temperature readings? VPD is supposed to be calculated with leaf temperature readings (averaged throughout canopy). So, leaf temps are about 3-5F cooler than the air due to evaporation that takes place (an endothermic reaction that absorbs heat from local environment). You vpd is lower than what you atmospheric temp caclulations are.
Make sure atmospheric temp -5F is not less than 1 kPa on the VPD reference table. In flower some suggestions i;ve seen are anywhere from 1.2-1.5 anyway. And, you shouldn't have more than a 0.4 swing from day to night, if possible. Stomata are mostly closed at night, but if you can avoid big deviations, do so.
There will be am optimal vpd in regard to maximizing co2 intake, but without a lab, that's pretty hard to dial in. So, if vpd gets a bit high and you cannot do much about it, be prepared to reduce overall concentration of your fertilization, if needed. High vpd means an increased rate of drinking... which will increase the supply of building blocks given while growth remains relatively the same = potential for tox buildup in the plant, all other factors remaining the same. Low vpd may require a higher concnetration. These two factors are linked in this way many other relative factors.
if you don't tightly control climate, don't worry about things you cannot control. Use it to ensure you avoid extremes as best you can given the tools you have or choose to use. For instance, to help temps and rh in winter, i sometimes have a fan blowing cold air toward the thermostat. It can raise the temps ~3F or more and reduce RH 1-3% or more due to furnace turning on more*. I just try to avoid the extremes, but i still keep track of vpd. it can help inform on choosing a course of action for a toxicity or deficiency.. due to the direct correlations spoken of above.
*it's a tri level with thermostat on top level. This works better than changing the dial on thermostate because it more evenly distributes the heat in the house at each level. Otherwise the mid level gets really cold and top level gets really hot, while the lowest floor is barely impacted.
A little wireless temp/rh probe that monitores this stuff constantly is well worth the ~10 usd cost. Do remember the VPD shown on these probes is likely lower than the calculation given. A "good" one might allow you to choose an offset to use. - 3-5F is wise.
I noticed these brown splotches and leaf edges on one area bud and pistils of my Orange Sherbet last night. Based on what I can find online, this might be potassium deficiency?
This is mostly on one spot near darkest edge when tent closed. Thanks!
Beginning Week 8, autoflower: Should I defoliate?
Seems pretty dense and bushy! This is the Fastbuds Orange Sherbet. She's the short bushy one in the second photo. Thankee!
Love the detailed descriptions, I like to follow along & learn all I can from these diaries so the info is much appreciated!
Good luck with the rest of the grow!
@A_Stoned_Llama, Thank you! I get pretty verbose ... and have learned a lot from when others do it. More info can lead to learning .. especially when I learn the wrong things the hard way, but at least there's a paper trail. Good luck with your grows too!
2 strains
Aleatoric
Hulkberry Automatic
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