This is another grow (that i shouldnt do ) , this time in my closet . I decided to grow only one plant this time cause of the pressure and also , its easier to get rid of one plant, than many plants .
this is day 8 , the babe is kinda slow (which i think is due to the genetics) . Out of the 4 Northern Lights Auto seeds i had left , only this one made it out successfully .
Almost important to note , I reused the soil from last grow , which i think might be a bit problematic since i dont have fertilizers and i give only plain tap water from seed to (hopefully) harvest.
Last but not least : I throwed a lot of vegetables and whatnots near my plants to distract the attention of the woodlices (they tend to attack young seedlings when they got nuthing else to do in the night) . I figured they might eat the stuff & get the nutrients back into the soil (that's what they are supposed to do, in addition to improving the soil) .
Hello , i noticed some black/bluish spots on the leaves which i never encountered before .
It looks like some disease/virus. i will upload a pic so you guyz can see
hey DoDhLo, yeah i see those spots on the leaves. So basically you're overwatering this little seedling , this you can see from the puffy leaves especially the puffy space between the veins of the leaf. the overwatering is leading to PH fluctuations and the PH fluctuations are leading to those spots on the leaves. How to fix it ? simple : just follow a stricter wet/dry cycle and make sure you're watering with PH5.8 -PH6.... bonus question : what's the PH of rain water ? 5.5 ! hope this helps my friend ! ๐
I always heard that sometimes, auto's can stay in VEG for ever and wont switch to flower like they supposed to. Am suprised and kinda excited to see it happen with my own plant.
I was wondering if anyone had this issue before and were the solutions you guyz tried .
I never had this issue with my grow but I know the origins and the solution ๐ . The origins : autos are a cross between a autoflowering ruderalis and a photoperiodic sativa/Indica or hybrids , the ruderalis brings the auto genes and the pgotoperiodics brings the potency and taste but sometimes the dominant gene is the photoperiodic one over the Autoflowering one and it is what happening to you. The solution : as your Autoflowering plant have a photoperiodic gene you need to switch you light into a 12/12 light schedule to induce flowering like if you were working with a classic feminised strain ๐โ๏ธ๐ผ
@CRiSPrGrow I dont intend to harm these little insects :) , am just throwing random stuff to keep them occupied (eggs shells , fruits peels etc) . And thanks for the luck wish, am gonna need it :)
@OutForReal Thanks for the explanation bro, it actually makes more sense then the other questionable theory's i heard . But you'd expect the ruderalis genes/characteristics to be more stable (after all these years i mean)
Anyway , am gonna switch to 14/10 or 12/12 to force flowering and maybe get some buds to smoke. Even though i knew this grow was a distaster from the start .
@DoDhLo,Yes you can obtain stables autos , most of the autos you can buy today are stable but genetics can still play tricks , it's like when you buy a feminised seed and end up with an hermie : it can happens. The better way to have stable autos would be to cross them until at least F5 but they are mostly some F3 so the F1 is the auto/photo cross , the F2 is an auto selection breed together and the F3 is suposed to be 100% auto after a good F2 selection.
Don't be quick to say it will be a disaster , if it is a photo then the 12/12 schedule will make you save light and money + the plant will stretch at least x2 which will makes a nice bush for a descent yield ๐๐
@CRiSPrGrow,
https://greenmethods.com/product/neoseiulus-cucumeris-mites-in-slow-release-packets/
Go there and search all the options. So awesome.๐๐