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One week of flowering is done! Plants look pretty healthy, I had some issues with temperature and humidity that I was able to fix.
They are getting the low end of the recommended amount of nutrition currently. 1.5L of water per plant every three days. Automated watering system is already ordered and will be installed next week. This week I am going to install a net to ensure even growth. Light is 75% of 630W and will stay like this for at least the next 4 weeks.
UPDATE: Net was placed, plants were defoliated and trimmed
When can I start mainlining? The four smaller plants still need a few days to recover, but the 2 bigger ones (Bruce Banner) should be ready - or should I wait as well? Thx a lot in advance for your help!
there's mainlining and manifolds, people usually mix them up or use them interchangeably.. really there's no need for ssuch vocabular. it's simply plant training.
Check out the related grow article/guide on cocoforcannabis.com. I don't care to remember which is which as they are useless labels that just take up space in my brain that can be used for better things.
whichever it is, don't remove all the leaves, if it is the extreme one. Stripping growth tips is fine, but don't strip the leaves unless they are directly touching the substrate or causing constant condensation on leaves (physically-touching overlap).
you simlply train the branches out before you top. When they are in position, you let them go vertically. How many colas you need is a function of how many branches you started with.. 2-4-8-16 etc.. or 4-8-16.. eacch time you top them you are doubling the number of colas. Space them appropriately based on how many you want to have... 2.5-3 colas per sq ft is a good guideline to maximize yield and retain well-formed buds deep into canopy.
Whether it's more extreme training with a manifold or just using a scrog or something to keep a few branches horizontal, call it whatever you want, lol. The more extreme one often results in longer vege times, so it's a retarded technique if that is the result. Why anyone would purposely run their expensive lights an extra 2 weeks just for the fuck of it is beyond me. Not stripping leaves will help eliminate the slower growth of that particular method.
if the branches are long enough to warrant bending, tying down etc, it's fine. They stay maleable for a fairly long time but all stems eventually become rigid... it's just important to train before that point. There's a fancy biology term for it, but i can't recall what it is - stiffening of the stems over time.
Check out the little 90-degree plant benders. Way more effective at forming an even growing plane than tying things down. As the plant grows you do have to remove them after 2-3 weeks, but by that time the stems are rigid. It will immediately try to grow upward after the bend, so some minor training until the branches reach out to proper spacing and you are golden.
Don't strip the leaves! removing 80% of the leaves so it looks cool is not wise. A bunch of bare stems and 2-4 newer growth leaves at the tip is not optimal for growth, lol. Why anyone would come up with such a "technique" is absolutely insane about its effectiveness or usefulness.
Where should I place the sensor for humidity/temperature? I see huge differences depending on the spot, I have placed the sensor now slightly below the top leaves - above the lamp directly hits and it has 4 degrees (celsius) more!
White Diesel Haze Automatic
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