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3. Legal grow 🇩🇪

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17 hours ago
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Random 80x80x180
Grow Tent
Indoor
Room Type
Transplantation
weeks 1
Soil
Grow medium
12 L
Pot Size
Grow Conditions
Week 1
Vegetation
10
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
10+ conditions after
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Grow Technique Usage
Transplantation
Technique
Commented by
Cannubis Cannubis
17 hours ago
Clones arrived and got transplanted into their final pots already (still experimenting). Added roughly 100ml per water per plant and turned on the humidifier to 70%
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Grow Questions
Cannubis
Cannubisstarted grow question 17 hours ago
Do you recommend transplanting clones straight into their final pots? (Photoperiodic)
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2 hours ago
you want small pots -- better o2 penetration to roots.. roots, roots, rooots, roots.. all you should care about is root formation, lol. Unless you take massive cuts, a tiny seedling pot is fine. Even with large cuts the only reason for a big pot is to ensure it doesn't fall over... without roots the plant can't do shit, so you don't want to promot vege growth until it has some. Cuttings do nothing and need virtually nothing until they have roots. So you want low VPD (high humidity) to nearly stop transpiration, which limits need to take in water, and a warm substrate (75-80f) to promote root growth. They need very little light, but obviously don't put them into flower with a long dark cycle. when you see more than a tiny amount of vege growth - leaves will slightly fatten before the roots form and you should ignore that - you can experiment with more light and hardening them off to normal RH / VPD levels for a vegetative plant. They won't all be on the same timeline. Better to err on keeping them in low vpd / low light longer than trying to force them early. If you see stem elongation and more than a tiny amount of leaf growth, chances are there are some small, delicate roots. just as always, have an appropriate sized pot to your plant... if it takes forever for the plant to drink down from full saturation, it's too big. Stagnant water happens whether it sits in a bucket for many days or absorbed into a solid substrate all the same. In a nursery, they will keep it cooler above ground but keep the substrate 75-80F. Supposedly this causes more resources to be distributed to the roots.. no idea if it is true. Plants are compartmentalized, so it's not a bad hypothesis, but not something to assume without proof. If there is scientific research to back it up, worthwhile to do.
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Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question 15 hours ago
I wouldn't root in your final pot but I'll plant straight into a 5 gallon once rooted. It's mostly a convenience factor for me. I also like taking a little bigger clones than average. If you wanted to do any bigger than 5gal I'd probably recommend staging it up. The type of media and its consistency would probably factor in a little bit too since that's gonna be what dictates your watering frequency.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 16 hours ago
no, I would still transition up to different sizes like any other grow, small nursery starter pit, to 1L to 1gal to 3gal to 7gal exct. as long as the size up is about 3 times the size of the previous volume its good. moving from 1gal to 2gal is wasted effort IMO 1 to 3 is better. Also good to keep the perlite ratio high in the first beginning stage pot to help avoid dry spots in the middle after transplanting.
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