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alright, the clones were made back in november from flowering plants.
Not ideal, but the first batch died.
They had to be re-vegged with 22 hours of light under a crappy cheap LED lamp.
They have now recovered nicely in the new pots with a top layer of coco.
They also accept the nutrient solution nicely, means the roots are healthy.
One more week and I will switch to flower.
plants have gotten bigger. I bent some of the branches to create an even canopy.
Today I switched to 12/12.
I expect them to triple in height over the next 4 weeks.
can anyone recommend a drip watering system for my setyp? Watering gets tedious and I plan to be on vacations in spring. Anyone using the Jardibric or Gardena system?
Jardibric looks more like for the garden
like the most gardena systems
Gardena got auto dripping sets for "holidays" which looks
pretts solid for grows.
Blumat is a well known system and not that expensive
like Gardena with a lot of diffrent sets
Autopots works bit diffrent, but is also a well known system
The obvious choice is Atami Wilma system. Great as long as the plants don't get too big as they sit on the reservoir. I don't remember there being that many drip systems.They are really simple to make if you're that way inclined.
I can vouch for Netafim Halos as emitters. Keep it simple. You might be able to pinch a few pennies grabbing a small aquarium pump and designing your own. Automating it will be as simple as timer of choice and a few runs of volume versus time relative to your pot sizes. Have fun with it.
1 week after flipping to 12/12.
Lamp running at full power with a 1 hour sunrise and sunset gradient from 0-100% and vice versa.
The have grown a lot. At the end of this week, I will defoliate.
Then I will wait for flower tops to appear, which happened end of week 3 in the previous grow.
Then I will clear out the lower branches.
I dont plan on using the net this time. I want nice long sativa tops.
Lets hope they dont grow into the lamp.
I still have about 40 cm of space upwards.
I keep the lamp a little closer to the tops now, to keep them from stretching too much.
Once they slow down a bit, the lamp moves upward.
They have grown and stretched a lot this week. The Tangie clones (the "sativa" pheno 2 from the previous grow only) made lots of side branches. After feeding tap water straight for 2 days, I cleared out the bottom half of the plants. I really want them to focus all flowering on the top buds. Each plant has now about 3-5 tops. They were given water one more time. Then I will switch to flowering phase fertilizer, starting low. Plants seem happy, no bugs, no deficiencies.
3 weeks after flipping. Lots of flowers. They stretched a bit too much, I should have flipped a week before. I can move the lamps up another 10-15 cm. But not yet, I keep them lower and hope that this keeps the plants from stretching. I will raise the lamps later.
A lot of the bud sites are shaded by large fan leaves. Should I remove those leaves already? Let me know.
In cannabis plants, natural sugar production is always happening, where larger amounts of sugar are key to a larger yield. Newer buds are the workhorse leaves, producing the sugars that older leaves store. This sometimes creates a competition for sugar amongst the leaves of the plant. Healthy plants do not need much alteration, but weaker plants sometimes need the extra sugar boost. Many growers use tricks such as defoliation to trim older leaves so the flow of sugar can reach other less mature buds. Others will add extra sugar to the plants to intervene with the natural production and help it along.
You're never gonna convince a leaf worshipper that defoliation has benefits. Don't waste your time trying. It's a greatly misunderstood technique, by both people who are for and against it. Personally I think it really has less to do with light than airflow. Cannabis is a wind pollinator, it certainly seems reasonable that flowers that get better airflow would have better chances of catching pollin and get more attention/resources. That holds true even in your top canopy, buds like elbow room. I think it just gets spoken of in terms of light because you can't really visually see airflow. Regardless of the larf bud density debate, it's reasonable just for preventing mold, mildew and budrot. I don't care how cherry you think your environment is, in the middle of a thicket you're gonna have a moist microclimate. You would practically have to strip a healthy plant naked before it reasonably impacted your grow. If you're feeding your plant then stored sugars aren't an issue and several other factors are gonna limit an indoor grow before leaf count ever enters the picture lol. If you're new to trying, start slow. It's easy to come back and remove more leaves tomorrow but you're not gluing any back on. Start from the bottom and work up, targeting large fans. Just removing the fans from the base of branches can make a big difference. Leave the leaves at the top few nodes alone unless it's a real cluster f, those are the leaves doing the heavy lifting since they get the best light.
Gummi_Ingo
