LemonOrangeOrganIndoor 80L GHSC237

9nov25.11am.Evening. The plant finally started moving its leaves to adapt to the light. 😏 Today, the old leaf on the second real node turned by 25%! It's on the left in the photo. While the plant is little, I'm afraid of pH problems because litle ones are more sensitive to rapid changes in pH, so I am still watering the root area and 15cm circle with distilled water (because I need same pH and the pH meter is broken). Watering: 1L (not distilled) for the whole pot, warm. Substrate: 21C; Humidity: 60%. Mulch added 0.5L horsetail. Sulfur elemental: 30gr in granules inserted 5cm deep.

8nov25.8am.Afternoon. LST training continues. Plant's stem buried under soil to make it shorter. First couple of lower leaves getting sick and yellowish 😟 perhaps because there is no pH meter. Horsetail dried applied as mulch. Watered with distilled water. Height: 4.3cm; Substrate: 22C. Air: 24C; Lighting intensity: 50%.

Looking good so far 👍 Happy growing matey 👊

7nov25.1pm.Evening. LST Training continues; the plant must lie down 😴 horizontally to shorten the stem. This requires tuning lamp distance to 25cm. Elemental sulfur in fine powder 1 teaspoon on 15cm circle around the plug. Then watered with 150ml distilled water with sulfur powder on the walls of the glass. Sulfur was added because my pH meter broke and the next meter may arrive in 1-2 months, and in the meanwhile I need to lower the pH of the substrate and this will male the water which comes through it more acidic - exactly what I used to do with the old pH meter - I used it to pH down my 7.2-7.6 river water. Elemental sulfur granules applied across the whole surface of the pot. It was 1/3 of a 150ml glass. Horsetail 0.5L dried applied to surface, and then the surface got mulched 5cm deep (but I did not disturb the 15cm circle around the plug). Any ideas on how I can get my 7.2 pH to 6.1pH without a pH tester? My tongue sometimes fails me and I may think that 4pH tastes like 6pH which may cause heavy stress to plants. Should I stop using that acid pH down? Substrate: 22C. Air: 24C; Lighting intensity: 50%.

6nov25. 11pm. 2 weeks after helmet. pH meter broke down. 😱 I am using my tongue for metering pH. Plant training started - plant bent. PS all my photos in my posts below have gone - the site has removed them without saying a word. 2 weeks of filming every day.

5nov25,22:20. 46h since transplantation. After 2 nights in new pot. End of week 2 of vegetation. 🙌 Seed dropped helmet 310h ago. Seed was transplanted 279h after losing helmet. Water: 100ml distilled + 100ml drinking water (mistake: I forgot to measure pH. Usually this water's p is 7.2, so distilled + 7.2 may be 6.3?); Substrate: 22C. Air: 23C; Lighting intensity: 50%. The pot gets watered 500-1500 ml of 6.1pH plain water every day depending on how fast its surface gets dry. I kept it dry, but now I want it to be moist even on the surface. I don't want dry crust at this moment. The plant is healthy and pleasant to look at, and juicy. 😋

4nov25. Evening. 279 hours after dropping helmet TRANSPLANTATION 👉 comes. Water: 200ml distilled; Soil pH: 6.4 (1:1 water:soil ratio); Substrate: 27C. Air: 26C; Lighting intensity: 50%. New pot: 70 Liters. Substrate temp was too high: 27C, so I TURNED OFF THE HEATING MAT (bokashi inoculation was on 20th Sep) anyway, bokashi have been fermenting for 1.5 months. Watering: Step 1: water the spot for the plug before placing it into hole; Step 2: water the seedling around after replanting (15 cm circle).

Afternoon. Light intensity: 10%20%. For my eyes, it seemed like the light got 2 times stronger, although I only increased it from 10 to 20% 😎 and planning to increase DLI to 25% by the beginning of week 3 = +1% a day. I gave more % because the plant's internode's proportions were looking more stretched that the results I saw with stronger intensity. Trying to be safe than harmful, so I started with 20% for not to scare the plant )) hahahhaaa. Now the seedling is at Week 2 of vegetation. One true set of leaves is visible with its leaves being 1.5 cm long, and on the little second node the real leaves are tiny yet, only 3mm each. Medium: jiffy peat plug. Distance from plant - 30 cm. Seed helmet manually removed 128 hours ago. Watering (hydro): distilled 9ml + 1 ml base (1/4 of recommended dose by Green House Feeding Hybrids fertilizer which has a recommendation for young plants: 2.5g/10Liters. So, for seedlings I use 1/4 of 2.5g/10L concentration for base , and I take 1 ml of that base + 9ml of distilled = 10ml solution every day. The lamp is Mars Hydro FC1500 EVO 150W LED Grow Light — Samsung LM301H EVO.

3 nov '25. Afternoon. Light intensity set at 50% 💪 because leaves were looking like bleak salad, and there was not much progress for a couple days. Lamp lowered to 25 cm because it's a cold winter. An 80mm fan is blowing upon the seedling. Humidity: 60%; Air: 25C; Substrate: 25C.

2nov2025. 2pm. Evening. The amount of roots which grow from the bottom/sides of the plug has increased by 25% 🙌 on one day. There are some discoloured areas on edges of the second pair of leaves. I called this infection 'chlorosis' in the past, but now I may think it is some kind of mosaic virus 👹. However, today the pale areas have either got greener or smaller because the leaf has grown bigger and dwarfed the problematic patches. The strawberries are signalling the soil is still a bit problematic, but overall the condition of the soil is at its best for the last month. The heating pad is keeping the substrate warm, and hopefully bokashi have already stopped shaking pH (first bokashi innoculation done on 20 sep; temps were kept at 30C for 1 day, and then 27C with heating pad. Water pH 5.5). The soil needs testing for pH because the second pair of real leaves (the plant already has 1 pair of real leaves with 1 sub-leaf + 1 pair of real leaves with 3 sub-leaves) is getting the plant ready for replanting into its main pot. I want the substrate to be ready for the plant in about 5-7 days, so I stopped keeping the surface dry (against fungus gnats). Now I am watering the soil with at least 500ml water every day (yesterday I used 1700ml of pH6.1 water at 33 C). Humidity: 65%; Air: 24C; Substrate: 24C.

31oct2025. 1pm. Evening. The second pair of leaves has become greener 👽 , and the yellowish tissues have almost gone. It must have happened thanks to the right PPM! The root hairs on them have got bigger. To save the humidity for the delicate hairs I half-closed the pot with a lid. Humidity: 66%; Air:24C; Substrate: 25C.

30oct2025. Morning + Evening. The plant was looking unhealthy as if there was some nutrient problem, so I -50% the PPM (-50% to the concentration of ferts). In the morning of the next day there were many new roots 💪 at the bottom of the plug. Air: 23C. Humidity: 68%. Substrate 25C.

28oct2025. Evening. The plant was hydro watered in the afternoon. The first set of true leaves is visible. The stem between them is short 👌 (0.3mm).

Evening. First watering.😭 The leaves are open. First hydroponic feeding: 0.3g + 120ml water - base solution (1/4 of the recommended dosage for young plants). So, I made 120ml of base solution, which has to be used like this (according to chatbot): ''Mix 1 mL of your stored fertilizer base solution + 9 mL water = gives 10 mL for seedlings. This is ratio (1 : 9) ''. I used 10ml for watering, i.e. I diluted the base solution 1:9 with distilled water. Fertilizer: Green House Feeding Hybrid. Air: 26C. Humidity: 63%. Substrate 26C. PS I mulched+tilted the soil 7cm deep. I am worried about my worms because they used to be abundant and visible, and now after 28C of hot temperature for a week they have disappeared, but I hope some are still alive to give offspring. PSS: the distance to the lamp was changed from 40 cm to 30cm. PSSS these electronic scales are terrible. I have doubts I weighed exactly the required weight because they are not sensitive and often the results jump up or down. Can you recommend a quality affordable model to weigh 0.026g with precision because I don't want to burn the babies.

Feeding: hydro 10ml (1/4 of recommended dose from Green House Feeding Hybrids). ; Height: 8.5cm. Problem: stretching. Positive: long root at the bottom of the plug is tapping into the brown water which came out of the plug. I am worried about PPM because of osmosis. Need to test PPM of the runoff water at the bottom of the plastic bottle. PS PPM = 500-900. My guess was correct - the PPM was too high! I guess it may have caused serious stress to the plant because all its minerals would have escaped it and ran into the runoff, and it would try to eat but it would be extremely hungry because the minerals would have moved to the high PPM water. Is my logic right? I need help from a person who undertands hydroponics, please, write me some words of help in the comments. I WILL REMOVE THE RUNOFF WATER 😮 because it is 900PPM, and I must do it after every watering if I don't want to see a yellow corpse!!! I have already raised one other plant in this way - using the plug for germination - and it kept alive for about 3 weeks (though it was too stressed and yellow as a seedling, and the harvest was 10 grams of buds outside. I watered the substrate in the trough with 1 liter of 6.1pH plain water at 27C (substrate temp: 25C). I watered because I found out that my sprout of legume has got sick + dying with some kind of rot on its stem, but perhaps it was the lack of water. The upper 3cm of soil are dry like paper. The worms cannot come back to the substrate after getting into this dry crust, and get trapped, though the reason I am so frugal with water is because I don't need fungus gnats which arrive if the upper layer is always wet. I have not seen a fungus gnat for many weeks, and if they come, I simply don't water until the top 3 cm of substrate get dry and dry up the parasites' larvae.

Morning. The stem was too thin and stretched (length: 8.5cm). I had to put an 80mm fan to make it adapt and harden up because I hate seedlings which stretch and lie down horizontally because they have thin fragile stems.

Morning. After a night the leaves are +1 mm more open. Humidity: 65-70%. Air: 26C. Substrate: 27C. Height: 7.5cm. Problem: stretching 😦 (perhaps caused by trying to get more light when the helmet was blocking the light). I could increase the % of light intensity, but I'm afraid the seed will not like it because it still doesn't have nutrients in the plug, only its own deposits from the seed.

Evening. 7.5 days after the seed was put in the jiffy peat plug. The rest of the helmet was removed because the leaves couldn't open. The problem was not the tight seed cap itself, but the seed membrane which glued itself to the false leaves. It was sitting on the ends of leaves keeping them pressed together. I used a needle and removed the membrane. The leaves have already opened by 2mm. What is the bro/scientific name for that cellophane film which resembles a tip of a sock? Inner seed cap? Inner membrane? I have not watered yet, but I will do it after the leaves open and get green. Chatbot told me the seed has a decent deposit of nutrients until the plant starts photosyhthesizing with its own leaves.PS the soil got watered with horsetail tea for silica (400ml + 1.5L water/pH 6.1). Substrate temperature: 27C. Air: 28C. Humidity: 70%. Good luck, my baby! 👌

167 hours after putting the seed in the plug. Morning. Yesterday I put a plank of oak on top of the seed's head, in hope to let the seed scrape its helmet off, but in the morning I saw the plant happily free from oak, but still wearing the cap. The seedling got longer by 2 cm from morning till this moment (4 hours!!!). ChatGPT told me this: ''get the helmet off ASAP, keep the plug moist but not soaking wet, and be ready to introduce a very light nutrient solution (pH-adjusted) once the cotyledon leaves are fully exposed and photosynthesizing. The seedling is stretching because it needs light now, but its leaves are blocked.'' I HAD TO REMOVE THE HELMET because it had been sitting on the false leaves (cotyledons) for many days, and ChatGPT screaming ''remove cap ASAP'', and because my other seeds before this run got yellow and lost vigour after some days in a stuck helmet, and later they did not die but also did not grow or produce harvest. My other seeds lost their vigour after some days and I got worried that my seed would get stuck and fail, so I decided not to lose the moment while the seed was still functional. The cap was rather hard to remove even after 1 day of 75% humidity. I did not remove the cap but left it stuck to one side of the seedling in hope that gradual changes are healthier than rapid.

133 hours after the seed was placed into a wet plug. The seed's head is rotating sideways. Every 20 mins it changes the helmet's position from left to right as if trying to find some obstacle which it can use to hook the cap and continue growing up thus unwrapping itself. I put the seed near the edge of that penetrated sheet of plastic cover, but the seed moved its head to another side and did not use the edge to scrap off its helmet. I think this is the 5-th day of stuck helmet/45% humidity :-( I will boil some water in the room to try and raise the humidity... It's going to be alive even if I remove the helmet forcefully (not today, but after a night), but I am simply a bit annoyed that things are a little risky. It is 2 hours before sunset.