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Holy Agnostic Grail Kush 01

20
149
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5493
5 years ago
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Fission 300W Light Emitting Diodes/238W
Custom
Fission 300W Light Emitting Diodes/451W
Custom
Fission 300W Light Emitting Diodes/525W
Custom
Indoor
Room Type
FIMing
weeks Technique
Soil
Grow medium
19 L
Pot Size
1
Week 1. Vegetation
6 years ago
5.08 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
75 %
18 °C
0 L
0 L
106.68 cm
700 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.264 mll
Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 0.7kPa Week 1 light wattage average: 238W Hello again, y’all! This next grow is “Holy Grail Kush” by the powerhouse breeders at DNA Genetics. It will be growing next to “The Church” in my other journal by the legendary breeders at Green House Seed Co. It will be a "religious experience" - agnostically of course 😜. I couldn’t resist growing them together for the novelty of the names, and both strains are supposed to be phenomenal. The flower time for both should be pretty equal as well. I planted three seeds in peat pods, and I will keep the best one for this journal. All three seeds popped right away and seem to be pretty consistent with each other, so it might be a tough competition to see which I keep. They popped quite a bit more successfully than The Church seeds in my other journal. I’m excited about this strain and always seem to hear lots of good things about it, and seeing how robust they are out of the gate makes me feel pretty good about this grow. I am going to be making quite a bit of changes from my last grow, and I’ll describe that in detail below. My time will be more limited this go around though, so it will be a good test to see if I actually make some improvement. My goal is to shave off some weeks and still see if I can get the same yield. I'll be doing fimming with LST, but if timing opens up, I might go back to a manifold like on my last grows. The pics aren’t all that great for this week, but this is the first week so I’m not going to fuss about it right now. I’ll be taking better pictures in the upcoming weeks. Growing Medium: Kis Organics, Water Only Soil with Biochar Espoma, Organic Perlite I want to stick with using organic super soils, and KIS Organics is a farm local to me. I used Kind Soil previously, but the last 4 plants I’ve grown seemed to not get the full nutrient potential from the Kind Soil without supplements. I don’t completely blame Kind Soil though because I believe that the shipping time and dryness of my tent killed some of the life in it. I also like KIS Organic’s customer service - Kind Soil seems to respond negatively to a lot of customers. I will be doing about 50% soil and 50% perlite. Watering System: Autopots, Smart Pot XL I have been doing some reading on Autopots, and I bought a couple of their Smart Pot XL systems. On the last grows I had a hard time gauging how much I needed to water partly because I was scared of over watering (but found out later that I was under watering), my tent runs a little dry, and because I want to be able to go on more trips. If used correctly it is a foolproof watering system, and the plants can drink at their own pace. You just have to top-water the first 7-10 days to let the roots grow down to the water pan. The way it works is there is a float system that opens a valve to refill the pots after they have gone dry. I will have to top feed some of my additives though, which will be explained in the second part of the next section. Supplements: General Hydroponics, CaMg+ KIS Organics, Nutrient Pack Real Growers, Recharge Growcentia, Mammoth P For supplements I will be using Camg+ very sparingly to prevent the brown spots commonly caused by the combination of living soil and LED lighting, I will still be using Recharge except on the last two weeks (highly recommended - it made a noticeable improvement on my last two plants), and Mammoth P will be used through the whole grow (even though Mammoth P is for microbial phosphorus production during flowering, it is also supposed to be good for the roots during veg). Take note though that organic materials cannot be added to the water reservoir of the Autopots since organic material solidifies inside the tubes. Instead, once every week or two I will shut off the reservoir line and top-feed the microbes. Then turn the reservoir line back on the next day. You aren’t supposed to top-feed Autopots, but it is okay from time to time if you are not using synthetic nutrients, and I will also add a top dressing of KIS Organic nutrient pack on my 4th and 6th week. Lighting: Kind LED, K5 XL1000 This is a programmable variable light. In early veg stages I will be using settings programmed to a lower intensity with bluer colors and gradually increase intensity and reds as the plant ages. I have a Kill-a-Watt meter on the line, and even on full intensity the wattage never exceeds the lower 600s. This early on in the grow the light is only in the 200s. Humidity: Elechomes, UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier Since my tent runs really dry with the stronger lights and low ambient humidity in the air, I know now that I have to supplement humidity. I tried two humidifiers previous to this one that were shitty, but this one maintains the proper RH with a humidistat much better than the other two I tried. Ventilation: AC Infinity, Cloudline T6 The ventilation has been upgraded to an AC Infinity temperature and/or humidity controlled fan to reduce power consumption and noise, and it not running all of the time will hopefully retain more humidity and CO2 inside the tent. CO2: 2x Exhale, The XL This time might be my last time using my two Exhale XL bags since I only get about 200-300 more PPMs than my normal ambient air. Monitoring: Pulse One Hydrofarm, APCEM2 Autopilot Desktop CO2 Monitor & Data Logger The Pulse One is a handy sensor that connects to your WiFi and monitors temperature, humidity, and vapor pressure deficit (VPD). I’ve been able to see what is going on in the tent at all times, even on my phone. Lately I have also learned quite a bit about VPD and why it is important to have it dialed in - just adjusting your temperature and humidity is not enough. Learning how they affect each other, and also how they affect the plant together is essential. My Hydrofarm sensor is how I monitor the CO2. It logs over time, so it is good to see my average CO2 levels. I also have another little generic temp and RH monitor for a backup. My vent fan also measures temp and RH. All of my sensors together give me an average that I use to keep my Pulse One calibrated. Growing Techniques: I’m going to be reducing my defoliation this time around because I think last time I removed too many potential strong flowering branches. I’m going to try fimming instead of Nugbuckets Mainlining because I will be on more of a time crunch this go around. I will still be doing LST if needed as well. But as I mentioned above, if my schedule opens up this summer, I might go back to doing manifolds. Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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2
Week 2. Vegetation
6 years ago
10.16 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
75 %
18 °C
0 L
0 L
106.68 cm
670 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.264 mll
Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 0.7kPa Week 2 light wattage average: 238W This week I chose the best 1 of my 3 starts to keep. I transplanted the winner from the starter pot to its Autopot Smart Pot at the end of the week. I will need to top water for about 7-10 days so that the roots can grow down to the Autopot tubs. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Upgraded a lot of my setup. I programmed my light to a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases as the time goes by, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During the seedling phase I ran with a lower intensity and more blue color, and the actual wattage average during the light cycle was only at 238W. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th & 6th week top dressing) Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) Growcentia: Mammoth P (2 weeks before & during flower) LIGHTING: Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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3
Week 3. Vegetation
6 years ago
17.78 cm
18 hrs
26 °C
6.5
Weak
60 %
19 °C
19 L
0 L
134.62 cm
500 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.264 mll
Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.0kPa Changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage is now 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. It is a little difficult to keep the humidity and CO2 levels up though with this strong of a light triggering the fan. I raised the light, and if things get too rough I will reprogram the light to a lower intensity, but everything seems to be fine enough for the time being. At the end of this week I filled my Autopot reservoir and turned the lines on. Some time in the following week I won’t need to manually water the plant. I’m really liking the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: VPD for the week 1 & 2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on weeks 4 & 6, Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used two weeks before and during flowering. These supplements need to be top-watered because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off. In between cycles the roots dry out just enough before the float disengages and the cycle begins again. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th & 6th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (2 weeks before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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Grow Questions
MovingOn
MovingOnstarted grow question 6 years ago
LED lighting makes badly colored pictures. Used to take my pots out of the tent, but my new watering system makes that a mess. My shop drop-light makes the leaves a weird light green. What type of lighting do you use for in-tent shots? Best answer to a cheap light but great pics.
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
1 like
MarcXL
MarcXLanswered grow question 6 years ago
Your photos look good as far as I can see. I used to switch my red blue led off for photos and hung in a standard energy saving light with 4000k to take photos.
4
Week 4. Vegetation
6 years ago
30.48 cm
18 hrs
26 °C
6.5
Weak
70 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
121.92 cm
500 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.264 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.0kPa This girl has some really wide leaves. I worry that the larger ones are shading out the lower part of the plant, but besides my planned fimming I don’t want to mess around with training or defoliation shock too much this time around due to time constraints. Still though, she is a really strong and robust grower. She grew 5” this week and had a lot of mass growth in the leaves and stem, even during the fimming, and since I’m still a noob, I’m pretty happy about that. Sorry about the lighting, I have to turn off my LEDs and use a shop drop light because I’m not really sure what type of lighting to use to take better pictures (see my Grow Question). The Autopots are doing their job. It is nice being able to take time off of watering to focus on other things. I fimmed early on in the week. The recovery is going well, and there is more bushy-ness now. Unfortunately, unless I figure out ways to make my schedule at the end of this summer more accomodating for this round of growing, this might be my last week of veg. I might be ok though if we get one more really good week of recovery after this fim. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3+ veg cycle is 1.0kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on weeks 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t also because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3+ I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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5
Week 5. Flowering
6 years ago
45.72 cm
18 hrs
25 °C
6.5
Normal
57 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
106.68 cm
500 PPM
Nutrients 4
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.053 mll
Mammoth P - Mammoth Microbes
Mammoth P 0.159 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa I flipped the lights on the second day of the week because I was running out of time because of a trip in August, and I didn’t want to complicate things, but I felt that there was enough vigor in the plant to get an okay yield anyway. My light wattage average is now 525W. It might not be the largest yield because I’m still a noob doing a short veg cycle, but we’ll see. The smell of the plant itself is already a deep hashy smell. I’m excited for this girl’s harvest. My nighttime humidity is a little difficult to keep down right now, but I think that I have enough moving air in the tent that it will be okay. I also have a little bit of wilting going on, but I think I messed up pH’ing the water. So hopefully she will pull out of it the following week. Hopefully it isn’t root rot. I poured water and let it dechlorinate for a day, I brought it down to 6.5, waited a day, had to bring it down again to 6.5, tested again the next day and STILL had to bring it down again. Not sure why it kept going alkaline, but it might be because I was using tap water this go around. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on weeks 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t also because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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6
Week 6. Flowering
6 years ago
63.5 cm
18 hrs
25 °C
6.5
Normal
57 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
88.9 cm
500 PPM
Nutrients 4
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.053 mll
Mammoth P - Mammoth Microbes
Mammoth P 0.159 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa 7” (17.8cm) of growth this week, that’s my noob record so far, and had the same with “The Church” in my other journal. The smell of hash is stronger than you would think coming from this plant this early on - even though there really aren’t any flowers yet. You can really tell that this will have strong smelling buds when it fully flowers. The leaves are still freakishly huge. Some are around 1.75” (4.5cm) in width. I helped some of the lateral branches to get out from underneath the larger ones by tucking. I’m not going to defoliate though, except for dead leaves. Actual botanists say to leave the leaves on (pun?), because they are a power source for the plant. They provide sustenance to the shaded areas of the plant and also store energy for when the plant can’t suck enough nutrients out of the roots (this is why you see the leaves lose their green in the “fall”). So I’m going to go with the scientists on this one. I am growing organically and I’m still a noob, so my yield won’t be jaw dropping enough to prove my point, but it just makes too much sense to deny the science. The wilting from last week isn’t that bad anymore, so I think it was a pH issue like I had thought. I went back to spring water instead of tap water because it’s easier to deal with and keep pH’d correctly. I’ve also been top watering this week because I feel more comfortable doing that instead of keeping the feet soaking in water the whole time, but I will turn on the Autopot reservoir if I am out of the house for long periods of time. All in all, we’re still stretching, but I am sure it will slow down soon. The bud sites are turning into a lighter green, so I know they are getting ready to flower. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on week 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t also because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Important to note though: do not top-water your Autopots when using synthetic nutrients. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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7
Week 7. Flowering
6 years ago
78.74 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
Weak
56 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
73.66 cm
460 PPM
Nutrients 4
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.053 mll
Mammoth P - Mammoth Microbes
Mammoth P 0.159 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa Some of the bottom leaves are showing a nitrogen deficiency by yellowing, which yes, at this stage is a little normal, but I am worried that the yellow could spread faster than I want it to. Upon reading other people’s journals on and off this site I found this is a nutrient heavy plant. So I hope the living soil will have enough nutrients to finish flowering her out. I’ll keep an eye on it. There was more stretch than I anticipated the last 3 weeks. Height isn’t an issue though. I just hope that there wasn’t too much stretching between the internodes, but that isn’t a quality issue, just more of a cosmetic issue. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on week 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Important to note though: do not top-water your Autopots when using synthetic nutrients. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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8
Week 8. Flowering
6 years ago
87.63 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
Weak
56 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
64.77 cm
460 PPM
Nutrients 4
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Calcium Magnesium Supplement - Terra Aquatica
Calcium Magnesium Supplement 0.053 mll
Mammoth P - Mammoth Microbes
Mammoth P 0.159 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa Letting the plant do its own thing, keeping the environment in check, and letting it defoliate itself. Sure, some lower leaves are yellowing, but I am going to let the plant go through its normal life cycle so that I don’t screw up its chemical balances. Stretch has slowed, and flowers are forming. There isn’t much for aroma yet though. I forgot to mention the other week that I figured out how to take somewhat okay pictures. I have been putting my green gardening LED sunglasses in front of the lens of my camera. It takes out the weird red/purple of the LED grow light pretty well and corrects the coloring of the environment virtually perfectly. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on week 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Important to note though: do not top-water your Autopots when using synthetic nutrients. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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9
Week 9. Flowering
6 years ago
88.9 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
Weak
56 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
63.5 cm
450 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Recharge - Real Growers
Recharge 0.651 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa This was a vacation week and true test of the Autopot system (which is also why the lack of pics this week). Well, it worked. The plants are alive. Except that I think my living soil is running out of nutrients. This is somewhat understandable though since I did a 50/50 mixture with perlite, so there just wasn’t a large enough mass of soil to last. I think the next time that I use this soil, I will use a different sized pot. This time around I will do some research and try to decide if supplementing with fertilizer is needed to finish out the run. I tried to do a time lapse while away, but was unsuccessful. I will have to do some more research on that also to figure out what went wrong. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on week 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Important to note though: do not top-water your Autopots when using synthetic nutrients. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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10
Week 10. Flowering
6 years ago
88.9 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
Normal
56 %
19 °C
19 L
1 L
63.5 cm
450 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Recharge - Real Growers
Recharge 1.302 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa As you can see in the pics, the yellowing of my leaves and the halt in bud growth is showing us that the nutrients in my living soil have run out. My yield is going to be hurt dramatically. It is completely because of a dumb mistake I made. I wanted to do a 50/50 mix of soil and perlite, but without thinking about it enough, that means my 5 gallon pot of soil is really only a 2.5 gallon pot of soil. KIS Organics recommends to use a 7 gallon pot for a full run, so you can clearly tell that I completely undershot the amount of soil to use. Full-on noob mistake. I almost can’t even blame my inexperience, but I was so focused on improving other things in my tent that it was easy to overlook. I’ve also been out of town most of the last few weeks so I couldn’t spend much time trying to correct the situation. I am hoping that I will be able to finish this run without chemical fertilizers so I am doing a full Recharge routine, and might possibly do a compost tea if I can find the time (thanks @TheBudWhisperer for the recommendation). I am not using Mammoth P currently, even though it is for phosphorus during flowering, but that it is because it is known to kill other microbes, and right now I need the full battalion of microbes alive. All in all, I will have to say this is a learning experience. So in the end, even if my current plants die on me before full maturity, it has been a positive experience. It is also nice to know that the Autopot system works, just so long as your living soil has enough nutrients to last a full run or you are using chemical fertilizers. While the plants did have enough nutrients, they grew with tremendous vigor. The improvements I made in rate of watering, humidity, lighting, and circulation made a huge difference. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. I am using KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar. This is a living organic compost soil that theoretically should be enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow. The Nutrient Pack will be used on week 4 (was going to be weeks 4 & 6, but don’t need to now with the shorter veg cycle), Recharge will only be used if growth slows down too much, and Mammoth P will be used one week before and during flowering (was going to be 2 weeks before, but couldn’t because of the shorter veg cycle). The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off, and I won’t need to manually water the plant, but you do need to top-water for the first 7-10 days until the roots get low enough to reach the Autopot tub. Also the supplements mentioned above need to be top-watered on because you cannot run organic supplements through the Autopot lines. Important to note though: do not top-water your Autopots when using synthetic nutrients. Every light cycle stage is/will be programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, but it seemed to be recovering nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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11
Week 11. Flowering
6 years ago
88.9 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.5
Strong
56 %
19 °C
19 L
0 L
63.5 cm
460 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Tomato! - Espoma
Tomato! 1.321 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa If you have been following, you know that I undershot how much living soil to use and ran out of nutrients. All the leaves yellowed and the buds stopped increasing in size. I was out of town too much to fix the situation right away, so I estimate I lost almost 3 weeks of bud growth which will hurt my yield substantially. Also, please note that it isn’t the fault of the KIS Organics living soil that I am using - it was my underestimation of the volume that I needed. So in order to fix this situation now that I had time, I either needed to buy chem nutes or try compost tea. I decided that I didn’t have time to order anything, and there aren’t any indoor gardening or hydro stores near me, so I went to the nearest hardware store and picked up “Espoma Organic Tomato!” liquid tomato plant food. Well… it worked! I got green back in my leaves and the buds started growing again. All in all, my yield will be hurt, but I’m glad to be back on track. The buds have now become super sugary. Not just in sight, but also the smell is very sugary like the flavor of hard candy slowly melting in your mouth. I’m looking forward to the taste of this girl in my vaporizer. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes, see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar is a living organic compost soil that would have been enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow if I didn’t underestimate how much to use. TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off. I used it for the weeks when I was out of town, and it kept the plant alive. SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 Every light cycle stage is/was programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, and it seemed to recover nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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12
Week 12. Flowering
6 years ago
88.9 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.4
Strong
56 %
19 °C
19 L
0 L
63.5 cm
460 PPM
Nutrients 2
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Tomato! - Espoma
Tomato! 0.528 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa It might be too little, too late, but the buds are still getting bigger from the nute loss recovery. I have been removing dead leaves. I don’t defoliate living leaves anymore, because they are the plant’s solar batteries. Not only does photosynthesis create nutes in the leaves, but the nutes it pulls out of the soil get stored in the leaves as well. If I had defoliated like most people normally do, my plants could have died while I was away had it not been for the stored nutrients in the leaves. I was actually surprised to see green come back to the leaves though, I always heard that once the leaves turn color, they never go back to green. It is hard to see in the pics above, but if you compare them to the previous weeks, it is easier to see. Upon microscopic examination, it seems like I will still have about a week or more left on this girl according to the clear glassy look of many of the trichomes still. The aroma is super interesting. It started to be fairly sweet last week, but now there is a sour smell too. Sweet and Sour, ha. I did expect more of a lemon and pine smell, but I’m pleasantly surprised with this phenotype’s aroma. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. If you’ve been following, you know that I undershot how much living soil to use and ran out of nutrients earlier in the flower cycle. All the leaves yellowed and the buds stopped increasing in size. I was out of town too much to fix the situation right away, so I estimate I lost almost 3 weeks of bud growth which will hurt my yield substantially. Also, please note that it isn’t the fault of the KIS Organics living soil that I am using - it was my underestimation of the volume that I needed. I also shouldn’t have added so much perlite. I ran to the nearest hardware store and picked up “Espoma Organic Tomato!” liquid tomato plant food. Well… it worked! I got green back in my leaves and the buds started growing again. All in all, my yield will be hurt, but I’m glad to be back on track. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes, see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar is a living organic compost soil that would have been enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow if I didn’t underestimate how much to use. TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off. I used it for the weeks when I was out of town, and it kept the plant alive. SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 Every light cycle stage is/was programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, and it seemed to recover nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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13
Week 13. Flowering
6 years ago
88.9 cm
18 hrs
24 °C
6.4
Strong
50 %
19 °C
19 L
0 L
63.5 cm
459 PPM
Nutrients 1
KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar 128.906 mll
Target Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD): 1.3-1.4kPa Sorry for the late post, I have been super busy lately. This is the final week. Trichomes turned into a harvestable state, so also expect the Harvest post to come soon. I thought maybe there would have been one more week to go, but the trichomes are looking whiter now. RECAP OF THE GROW SO FAR: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. If you’ve been following, you know that I undershot how much living soil to use and ran out of nutrients earlier in the flower cycle. All the leaves yellowed and the buds stopped increasing in size. I was out of town too much to fix the situation right away, so I estimate I lost almost 3 weeks of bud growth which will hurt my yield substantially. Also, please note that it isn’t the fault of the KIS Organics living soil that I am using - it was my underestimation of the volume that I needed. I also shouldn’t have added so much perlite. I ran to the nearest hardware store and picked up “Espoma Organic Tomato!” liquid tomato plant food. Well… it worked! I got green back in my leaves and the buds started growing again. All in all, my yield will be hurt, but I’m glad to be back on track. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes, see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar is a living organic compost soil that would have been enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow if I didn’t underestimate how much to use. TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off. I used it for the weeks when I was out of town, and it kept the plant alive. SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 Every light cycle stage is/was programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, and it seemed to recover nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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13
Week 13. Harvest
5 years ago
Happy Harvest Day!
Rated
7/10
Rated
Good calming strain. This pheno is potent and gets the job done. The smell is a little like sour fruit candy and a lush mossy forest earth smell with a hint of pine. I honestly expected more flavor though, not that it is completely lacking, but just doesn’t really fit the media hype surrounding this strain (could be the pheno, but it is strong in THC though). The strength and robustness of this plant while growing was great. If I didn’t mess up in the flower cycle, I probably could have had around 4oz, even with the short veg cycle. Also, all 3 seeds that I initially popped were almost like carbon copies of each other, so I believe this is a very stable and reliable strain. Would I grow it again? - probably not, but don’t let that deter you from giving it a shot. Great beginner plant. I’m going to be making this one into a topical massage ointment and lube ;) . I think it will be great for this purpose. I didn’t get a large yield, but even with the low weight, it did fill up my 2oz jar all the way.
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Spent 92 days
Ger Veg Flo Har
137.91 g
Bud wet weight per plant
36.77 g
Bud dry weight per plant
1
Plants
0.74
Grow Room size
Easy
Difficulty
Positive effects
Relaxed, Uplifted
Positive effects
Negative effects
Dry eyes
Negative effects
Taste
Earthy, Pine, Sweet
Taste
Sleepy
Energy
Indica
Hybrid
Sativa

Height
Day air temperature
Air humidity
PH
CO2
Light schedule
Night air temperature
Pot size
Lamp distance
Sorry again for the late post, my schedule gets too full, too fast, but at least it gave me time to get a good cure. I really wish I could have got a better yield, but as you know if you have been following, I ran out of nutes during flower, and I was lucky to make it out with what I did get. Because of my schedule, I had to use a quick drying machine made specifically for cannabis called Herbsnow. Well, it works, but unfortunately for me it brought an initial hay smell. I read that this can happen with the dryer if the relative humidity is too low in the room that you use it, which is the case with my room. Luckily, after 2 weeks the hay smell went away. I think this strain would be a great yielder if you grow it right. I think that if you grow it with the correct and full amount of nutrients through its full lifespan, you could probably get a 4oz yield pretty easily. It is a great plant, but I honestly expected more flavor, not that it is completely lacking, but just doesn’t really fit the media hype. RECAP OF THE GROW: Target VPD for the week 1-2 seedling cycle was 0.7kPa. Target VPD for the week 3-4 veg cycle was 1.0kPa. Target VPD for the week 5+ flower cycle is 1.3-1.4kPa. If you’ve been following, you know that I undershot how much living soil to use and ran out of nutrients earlier in the flower cycle. All the leaves yellowed and the buds stopped increasing in size. I was out of town too much to fix the situation right away, so I estimate I lost almost 3 weeks of bud growth which will hurt my yield substantially. Also, please note that it isn’t the fault of the KIS Organics living soil that I am using - it was my underestimation of the volume that I needed. I also shouldn’t have added so much perlite. I ran to the nearest hardware store and picked up “Espoma Organic Tomato!” liquid tomato plant food. Well… it worked! I got green back in my leaves and the buds started growing again. All in all, my yield will be hurt, but I’m glad to be back on track. GROW SETUP (For extended explanations of why I went these routes, see my Week 1 entry): GROWING MEDIUM: - Kis Organics: Water Only Soil with Biochar (50%) - Espoma: Organic Perlite (50%) KIS Organics Water Only Soil with Biochar is a living organic compost soil that would have been enough nutrients for the plant through the whole grow if I didn’t underestimate how much to use. TENT: - Gorilla Grow Tent: Lite Line, 4’x4’ WATERING SYSTEM: - Autopots: Smart Pot XL The Autopot is a bottom watering unit that uses a float system to turn the water flow on and off. I used it for the weeks when I was out of town, and it kept the plant alive. SUPPLEMENTS: - General Hydroponics: CaMg+ (just a little bit) - KIS Organics: Nutrient Pack (4th week top dressing) - Real Growers: Recharge (only if needed) - Growcentia: Mammoth P (1 week before & during flower) LIGHTING: - Kind LED: K5 XL1000 Every light cycle stage is/was programmed with a sunrise and sunset mode where the light intensity starts low and increases, peaks, and then gradually dims before shut off. During week 1 and 2 I ran with a lower intensity and bluer color, and the actual watt average during the light cycle was only at 238W. For week 3 and 4 I changed my light to autorun mode, which is a stronger intensity but still has more blue during the light cycle, and the average light wattage in this cycle is 451W. Autorun mode is the Kind LED K5 XL1000’s default factory setting for a standard sunrise to sunset veg cycle. When I changed to the flower cycle at week 5 I programmed for full spectrum and intensity, but still with a sunrise and sunset ramp up and down. The actual average wattage during the flower cycle is 525W. HUMIDITY CONTROL (I usually run dry): - Elechomes: UC5501 Ultrasonic Humidifier VENTILATION: - AC Infinity: Cloudline T6 CO2: - 2x Exhale: The XL MONITORING: - Pulse One: Temp, RH, and VPD monitor over WiFi - Hydrofarm: CO2 Monitor I really like the Pulse One monitor. It really helps me to keep everything dialed in at all times. The graphing feature is a really great addition because I can now see how bad the environment of the tent would have been without some fine tuning. I fimmed about a week before flipping the lights, and it seemed to recover nicely. I’m still on the fence about fimming at this time though, since I think the plant would have turned out about the same anyway. Please also check out my other journal, The Church, by the Green House Seed Company: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/29539-the-agnostic-church-01
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growdoctordc
growdoctordccommentedweek 46 years ago
@MovingOn wrote ; “This girl has some really wide leaves. I worry that the larger ones are shading out the lower part of the plant ... “ When light comes only from the ”12 noon” position, interior leaves can suffer. Consider placing lights at a 10 and 2 o’clock position to combat that. But if you’re talking about what is so commonly called ‘getting light to the buds’, as one medical man to another, I’d like to debunk/clarify the widespread belief that flowers require direct light to grow to their potential. We are all in agreement that leaves are the solar panel of plants. If you powered your home with solar energy, you’d know it would be silly to place your TV and refrigerator where they will receive direct sunlight - they can’t use it. They use the energy collected by the solar panels. Same for cannabis flowers. They need space and fresh air to grow, but the calices themselves (the resin filled sacs that in numbers make up the buds) do not photosynthesize. Direct light to flowers doesn’t assist growth. That’s a big statement to take in, as it claims that a common belief is not true. But it’s only a common belief among cannabis growers. Horticulturalist, botanists and real farmers know this simple truth that continues to elude most weed growers. Defoliate with judgement. To strip a plant of most leaves is sure to lessen yield. Cannabis adapts and snaps back and the grower thinks ‘Oh yeah she loved being stripped. The buds were awesome”. No doubt. But she was desperate. She’d have created more flowers had she been pampered. It’s a goofy science still because we have had little in the way of organized methodology. That’s changing quickly. Happy growing. Enjoy your harvest.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@TheBudWhisperer, yes, if I think about it now, I think the misconception is that the bud sites themselves need to get light, but it isn't the bud site that needs the most light. The leaves are basically solar powered batteries for the plant, even the big leaves. They take in nutrients from both the roots and sun, and when the plant runs low on nutrients, then it starts eating the nutrients stored in the leaves. I am pretty convinced that if I had defoliated my plants, then they would already be dead now since I've nearly depleted the stored energy within the plant (due to my lack of nutrients in the soil from my dumb 50/50 mix in a 5 gallon pot). All in all, I still can't give a definitive answer on this anyway. I just don't have enough experience to judge either way yet, and unfortunately this run won't be the run to give me the results I need to make a comparison. And I do think there are positives still to defoliation in some cases, but I really would like to do a full run without and see how it goes - I will just have to wait until next time.
TheBudWhisperer
TheBudWhisperercommented6 years ago
@MovingOn, @growdoctordc, I agree wholeheartedly but am also a little astounded if the common belief/misconception is that buds photosynth. My understanding of defoliation was that it’s a tactic to A: get light to the lower leaves of the plant and allow for deeper bud development (ie. cut off the big ones) and even more importantly B: increase airflow to the middle of the plant, thereby avoiding the dreaded bud rot, perhaps I’ve been drinking the wrong koolaid 😉👍
growdoctordc
growdoctordccommented6 years ago
@MovingOn, I quickly scanned the article and will read in detail later. Interesting stuff about leaf age! ‘Less is more’ may not be the perfect adage for this, but you get what I mean. You’re on the right track Doctor! Carry on, sir.
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Spiral
Spiralcommentedweek 46 years ago
You can just tuck the leafs,so that the tops are exposed,I always do it like that.
TheBudWhisperer
TheBudWhisperercommentedweek 116 years ago
Glad to hear you’ve got a solution dude👍. That deficiency was Gettn on for sure😬. I admire your commitment to keeping er organic😎👍
TheBudWhisperer
TheBudWhisperercommented6 years ago
@MovingOn, you touch on a good point about basic plant biology actually, read a good book recently on readdressing cannabis grow methods that debunked a lot of commonly held beliefs. One of the key points In the book was about nutrients and how plants utilize them. We forget that the nutrients we put in the soil undergo a chemical change in order to be properly and efficiently absorbed by the roots. If you think about it in these terms then the only thing that really matters about any nutrient is the NPK ratio itself. Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous are all the same element regardless of brand - it’s only the ratio they’re mixed in that differentiates one product from the next. Odds are good that cannabis nutes are all overpriced because not all stoners are botanists and know better!!! Lol
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@TheBudWhisperer, thanks, bud! It sure was scary. I attempted to go with the least chemical-like thing I could find at the hardware store. A good chunk of it is all microbes too, which is pretty awesome. So it is like using Recharge, but like "Super" Recharge. I wish I could show in the pictures more about how much it helped, but unless I had done a side by side closeup of one or two of the leaves, it is hard to show in the pics above. Using this stuff hints to me too that if I, or anybody else for that matter, decided to use hardware store nutrients, as opposed to cannabis specific nutrients, the plants would do just fine. If you make sure nothing is poisonous in the ingredients, and pay attention to the N-P-K ratios, then using hardware store nutes will do exactly the same thing as cannabis nutes, and cost about a third or less of the price.
NomNom
NomNomcommentedweek 36 years ago
Nice detailed comment 👍
NomNom
NomNomcommented6 years ago
@MovingOn, I agree, I had one of my plants hermie on me, I took pictures, finished the diary and wrote everything out. Warned the others on here that were growing the same strain and they looked and found hermies on the strain too. Sharing information about things/stuff or seeds that don't work is more important IMO. Good work keep it up. I hope your grow goes well and you have no issues.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@NomNom, thank you, buddy! I figure even if I don't do well, spreading information helps us all.
Delta918
Delta918commentedweek 135 years ago
Good stuff 👍👍
MovingOn
MovingOncommented5 years ago
@@Delta918, thank you :)
MicrowGrow420
MicrowGrow420commentedweek 135 years ago
Like the ingenuity of using tomato feed when you're all out of nutes, congrats on the harvest, great informative diary 👍👌
MovingOn
MovingOncommented5 years ago
@MicrowGrow420, thanks, Dog! I would have lost the crops without it.
motaman311
motaman311commentedweek 135 years ago
Thanks for your thorough review. I am thinking about popping a couple of these soon... Buds looks great!
MovingOn
MovingOncommented5 years ago
@@motaman311, thanks! It is a strong, fast, and easy to grow plant. Just make sure to have enough nutrients through the flower stage (that was my mistake).
MicrowGrow420
MicrowGrow420commentedweek 135 years ago
Jeeze we gone hightech bigtime, you growing ganja for nasa now? 💪 Nice
MovingOn
MovingOncommented5 years ago
@MicrowGrow420, ha! If only my skills could match the gear, heh. I think the next grow is going to be a really good one though, but for this one I ran into nutrient issues during flower and negated the high techness.
Satori_Hanso
Satori_Hansocommentedweek 106 years ago
Too bad this happened. 😟 Can you try and give them any kind of nutrients. I believe you can still get them going.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
Hi, @Satori_Hanso, yes, I believe I can, but my whole approach to growing was not going the route of chemical fertilizers, so it will be with some reluctance. I also am having a hard time finding the time to go shopping because of so many life events happening right now, and the distance from gardening stores, but we will see. Thanks for the comment!
Satori_Hanso
Satori_Hansocommentedweek 76 years ago
I love the wall of text you wrote. Very informative. The plants look beautiful. I really like those leaves on the right plant, last picture. Just gorgeous. Can't wait to see the fruits of those plants. 😁
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@Satori_Hanso, thanks for the compliments!
growdoctordc
growdoctordccommentedweek 46 years ago
For pictures taking I use clamp lights with UVB bulbs, or white LEDs. Sometimes LEDs show weird lines. When I could see your diary title ‘Holy Agnostic...’ I hoped the next word would be Batman.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@growdoctordc, haha! That's funny. Holy kush, Batman! Thanks, I'll definitely ponder this. Although, you might want to make it a direct reply to the grow question if you want me to consider it for the "best answer". If you don't care though, I really appreciate the advice anyway! 😁
TheBudWhisperer
TheBudWhisperercommentedweek 16 years ago
Yeah, Kush anything and I’m pretty much in on the follow. Watching both with interest dude👍.
MovingOn
MovingOncommented6 years ago
@TheBudWhisperer, thanks, Bud!
MicrowGrow420
MicrowGrow420commentedweek 135 years ago
Handsome plants, your set up sounds brilliant, your Kind LED gives you a great range of lighting to work with it seems almost like a natural environment.
biggreens420
biggreens420commentedweek 136 years ago
should enjoy this girl shes a really nice smoke look forward to seeing the harvest pics
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