My first grow

🏻JibbyJack! Those yellowing leaf edges are a classic sign of "nutrient burn" or a pH fluctuation. It looks like the plant is getting a bit more than it can handle, or the pH in the soil is off, which is making it struggle to take in the right balance of nutrients. Since you're in week 5 and it's an auto, it's pretty common for them to get sensitive as they transition into flower. Try backing off on the nutrients for a watering or two and double-check that your water's pH is in the sweet spot (6.0 - 6.5 for soil). It’s not a disaster yet, but definitely a sign to dial things back a notch so it doesn't get worse. Happy Growing, Growmie!

Hey there. We've all been there. We've all had a bit of a heavy hand with nutrients. That's a pretty telling symptom you've got there. When the edges of the leaves turn yellow or brown like that (it's called "marginal burn"), while the center stays nice and green, it's usually a sign of excess. Here are the two most likely causes for your plant: 1. "Nutrient Burn" - The most likely This is suspect number 1. Your leaf tips and edges are "burned" because the plant has absorbed more minerals than it can handle. The telltale sign: The tips are yellow or brown and sometimes curl up or down like a claw. The cause: Either your fertilizer dosage is a bit too strong for this strain, or your soil is already very rich (amended) and adding fertilizer has created a surplus. The solution: Reduce your fertilizer doses by 25 to 50% during the next waterings. Water with plain water (adjusted pH) every other time to help the plant flush out the excess salts accumulated around the roots. 2. Potassium Lockout (K) Potassium is responsible for managing water and the vigor of the leaf edges. The problem: If your pH is off, the plant may be unable to absorb potassium, even if it's in the soil. This creates yellowing that looks like a burn. The solution: Make sure your pH is between 6.0 and 6.5. If you're above or below, adjust it gently. I hope this helps you out. Wishing you a great week and happy growing!

Looks like you’ve got a bit of yellowing starting along the leaf edges and tips - I’ve run into that before. From what I can see, it usually points toward a potassium issue, especially around this stage when the plant’s starting to push into flower. That said, a lot of the time it’s not that the nutrient isn’t there, it’s that the plant can’t take it up properly. First thing I’d check is your pH - if it’s out of range (you want roughly 6.0-6.8 in soil), it can lock out potassium and cause exactly this kind of edge burn. If you’re feeding light, you might just need to bump up a bloom nutrient a bit. If you’re already feeding, it could be some salt buildup, so a gentle flush with pH’d water and then easing back into nutrients can help. Also noticed the plant looks a little droopy - could just be a watering thing, maybe staying a bit too wet. Letting the soil dry back a bit between waterings can make a difference. Nothing too crazy at this stage - just keep an eye on the new growth, that’ll tell you if you’ve got it dialed in. 👍

I'd say yes you waited too long and they got root bound. When any leaves edges reach the diameter of the pot its time to pot up to the final container.

Hey JibbyJack! To be completely honest with you, yes, you have indeed waited a bit too long to repot. Here’s why the situation is urgent based on your photos: 1. The beginning of flowering It’s clear from your pictures that the plants have already started producing pistils (the little white hairs at the top). When a plant begins its flowering phase in a container as small as a cup, it risks becoming "dwarfed" because its roots send a signal to stop growing due to lack of space. 2. Rootbound Given the size of the above-ground part of your plants, the roots have most likely already colonized all the available space in the red cups. They must be starting to curl at the bottom of the pot (the phenomenon of root circling), which will significantly hinder nutrient absorption and the future development of the plant. 3. What you need to do immediately Repot now: Transfer them directly into their final pots to avoid a second repotting stress later on. Be very gentle: At this stage (beginning of flowering), even the slightest root stress can block the plant for several days, which would be disastrous for your final yield. Transition watering: After repotting, water with pH-adjusted water and possibly a bit of root stimulator to help them explore their new space. In summary: Your plants look visually healthy, but they are screaming for more space. If they are autoflowers, every day counts because their biological clock doesn’t stop. The sooner they are in a larger pot, the more they can stretch a bit before focusing solely on the flowers. I hope I could help you. Have a great day!

it depends. if you want to keep them small just let them sit.

Yo Growmie! To be honest, those Autos are in a tough spot because they're already starting to flower while they're still tiny seedlings—that's usually what happens when they get stressed early on. Since they have a built-in biological clock, you can't just put them back into veg mode like photo plants, so these will likely stay "mini" and won't produce much. The next step to get anything at all is to transplant them immediately into their final large pots without disturbing the roots, but don't expect a huge harvest from this batch. For your next 5 autos, the biggest lesson is to avoid small starter trays; plant them directly into their final 3 or 5-gallon pots and keep the environment stable right from day one so they don't stunt like these. At this point, just treat these as a learning experience, keep them fed with some light bloom nutrients, and focus on getting the next batch started the right way. Happy Growing, Growmie!

Hey JibbyJack, I checked out your diary, and if you’re aiming for a micro-grow, you’re right on track. But I guess that’s not really the goal here, right? Like the other guys already mentioned, it’s ideal to plant Autoflowers directly into their final pot from the start. Any additional stress is something an Autoflower can really take out on you. The stems of your plants are very thin and they are already flowering. Technically, you’d need to repot them into a larger container, but whether that will be successful at this stage is a 50/50 chance. For your next Autoflower run, a 9–15 liter pot is ideal for soil or coco. If you’re using living soil, you’ll need at least 15 liters, though 20–30 liters would be even better. Your plants are also starting to discolor, which is definitely a nutrient deficiency because that small amount of soil doesn't hold much. I grow almost exclusively Autoflowers. Feel free to check out my grow diaries; you might find some helpful tips there. Good luck with the rest of your grow!

I am a fan of autos, and have grown a few. I usually germinate the seeds in paper towels, and move the seed/taproot to a coco/perlite mix to begin it's life (usually a solo cup). The coco perlite is without any nutes/ so I can't damage her if I get the watering correct! A week or two later, I transplant to the forever home. This works for me. You appear to be over due for that, and perhaps your soil is a bit hot. How old are they? If less than 4 weeks they can easily catch up. If they are older I would concentrate on the next batch. Good Growing!