Zkittlez Fo' Rizzle

Grow box 24" deep 28" wide 60" high Diamond foil on 4 walls/ Flat white floor and ceiling 140 actual watts G8 veg / bloom LED 245 actual watts G8 bloom LED 2.2 gallon air pots Soil- Roots Organic Original Epsoma seed starting mix 2-Exhale Co2 bags Auto pilot Temp/Humidity/Co2 monitor. HM ph meter HM tds meter (0.5 ppm scale) Hydrofarm PPF/PAR meter 6" 2-speed circulation fan (2) Variable speed muffin intake fans w/nuisance dust filter 4" 190 cfm variable speed exhaust fan with carbon filter. Started seeds by dropping them in shot glass water for 24 hours. All 4 split open and poked a small root tip out. Transferred to moist tissue paper and placed inside small container. At 72 hours had 2 that had nice tails and were ready to transplant to pots. The other 2 seeds barely send out any significant size tail after 96 hours. Dropped 3 more seeds in shot glass of water transferred after 24 hours to moist tissue paper. Score 4 out of 7 were successful in developing a tail. Used 1/2 cup of moistened Epsoma seed starting into a small depression in the roots organic original soil surface. All came up within 2 days of transplant. 2 seedlings are about a week behind the others. One seedling was reluctant to shed the shell so I moistened it with a drop of distilled water each day until it finally opened it cotyledons. All are covered with clear Solo cups with three 3/4 inch ventilation holes in each. One on top two on opposite lower sides. I wrapped my pots with plastic wrap, added mosquito bits to the top 2 inches of soil ,sprinkled food grade diatomacious earth to soil surface and lastly yellow sticky traps to safe guard them from fungus gnats. Take that you pests👊

Using a turkey baster adding minimal amount of water with 1/8 teaspoon of Great White beneficial microbes with 1 ml/liter Carboload mixed in. Lowered light to 24 inches. PPF/PAR meter reading 250-300 umoles.

Week 3 Lowered LED grow lights to 18 inches. PPF/PAR meter reading 350 -400 umoles. Giving me a DLI (Daily Light Integral) range of 25.20 - 28.80 moles. Recommended LED PPF/PAR Values / DLI Based on 20 hrs of light. Seedlings 150 - 200 umoles / DLI 10.80 - 14.4 moles per day Veg up to 9" 450 umoles / DLI 32.40 moles per day Early bloom 500 umoles / DLI 36.00 moles per day Mid bloom 650 umoles / DLI 46.80 moles per day Late bloom 750 umoles / DLI 54.00 moles per day Ripen 400 umoles / DLI 28.80 moles per day *** Use extreme caution when going 700 umoles or higher this could cause leaf burn*** PPF measures the total amount of PAR emitted from the lighting system per second. PAR is the amount of light in the 400 - 700 nm color spectrum that can actually be used by the plant. PAR does not measure the amount of UV and Infrared that plays a part in trichome formation and cell quality. DLI is the total amount of PAR the plant has received per day Our goal is to have a minimum DLI in the 38-40 mole range when it bloom. https://www.waveformlighting.com/horticulture/daily-light-integral-dli-calculator https://www.lumigrow.com/application/cannabis/ https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/blogs/news/horticulture-metrics-par-ppf-ppfd-dli Using a infrared thermometer average leaf temperature was about 72 F with an average of 60% humidity giving me a LVPD (Leaf Vapor Pressure Deficit) of 0.58 kPa. Having your plants in the optimum LVPD ranges helps them absorb Co2 properly to conduct photosynthesis and allow the root system to adequately utilize water and nutrients. Using average leaf temperature is the best way to calculate LVDP. LED lights tend to have leaf temperatures lower than atmospheric temperatures in the grow room. Growers using HID, Fluorescent bulbs typically will have temperatures higher than room temperature. With HPS leaf temperature can be 8 - 10 F higher than room temperatures due to the amount of infrared emitted by the bulb. Recommended LVPD Seedlings/Early Veg 0.4 - 0.8 kPa Late Veg/Early Bloom 0.8 - 1.2 kPa Mid/Late Bloom 1.2 - 1.6 kPa *** Danger Zone*** Below 0.4 kPa / Over 1.6 kPa https://www.dimluxlighting.com/knowledge/vapor-pressure-deficit-vpd-calculator/ https://www.blackdogled.com/lst Plants leaves are fairly dark green they received 0.25 liter light nutrient solution twice about 3 days apart. Started LST by laying down main stem and pinning smaller branches with 3.5 mm anodized aluminum bonsai wire bent into a hook shape on one end. Plants recovered from being manipulated a few hours later. Started to show a touch of stretching by the middle of the week along with some preflower pistils already starting to show by day 21. Saw the first signs of some nice fuzzy white roots growing out the bottom by the end of the week.

Week 4 - Definitely starting to bloom plant #1 is already starting to stretch. Switched out veg light for bloom light at the end of week 4. Placed it at 18-19 inches above lowest growth. PPF/PAR meter reading of 450-525 umoles Giving me a DLI (Daily Light Integral) (See week 3 for links to this information) of 32.40-37.80 moles per day. My strategy of trying to keep the main colas to the far sides/corners will allow them to receive higher intensity light because they are closer to the light. But at the same time maintain an average of 500 umoles for the shorter buds which will grow taller over the next few weeks. Temperatures are running 81 F with 55% +/- humidity with an average leaf temperature of 73 giving me a LVPD (Leaf Vapor Pressure Deficit)(See week 3 for links to this information) of 0.79 kPa All are beginning their stretch hoping to control/limit it slightly (I'm height limited) by not over feeding nitrogen/phosphorus both of which can contribute to the issue. Red spectrum bloom lights also contribute to stretching so I held off until the end of the week yet increased the intensity slightly. Did some more LST training and did some leaf tucking and tying back the large fan leaves on the main stem using cushioned wire to allow more light to the bud sites. Unfortunately when trying to manipulate one small branch I heard the proverbial dreaded snap sound. She broke about 3/4 of the way through but not completely. I took a chance and pinned the branch between two pieces of anodized wire to prevent the branch from moving and used clear scotch tape to help stabilize it. She is already showing signs of repairing herself. Feeding every watering about one liter every few days but not to the point of any significant run off. Plant # 1 is the thirstiest of the bunch and gets a little extra each time to hold her over. Started adding Cal/Mag this week @ 0.50 ml/l. Since my soil had some amendments my experience is Cal/Mag deficiencies seem to start showing on the leaves around week 6. So starting to add some in the beginning of week 4 seems to work well for me.

Week 5 Still seeing a bit of stretching in all but one plant. Pistils are starting to multiply which is what I like to see. Kept up with the leaf tucking and tying back any large fan leaves on the main cola to get as much light on those bud sites as possible. Started off with a flush. Runoff ppm on one was close 1800 ppm kept flushing until run off was 800-900 ppm.Finished up with a 660 ppm nutrient solution till runoff. Runoff ph was holding between 6.0-6.1 . Lastly added a dose of beneficial microbes to each pot. Let the pots dry out a bit before next watering. PPF/PAR meter readings 500-600 umoles giving me A DLI ( Daily Light Integral) range of 36 -43.2 moles a day. Grow box conditions were 77 F with 55% humidity with an average leaf temperature of 72 giving me a LVPD (Leaf Vapor Pressure Deficit) of 0.94 kPa.

Week 6 - Started the week by increasing my nutes. They seem to be handling the feedings well. These girls are drinking a lot. The leader of the group almost got me, felt her pot and seemed to be good until I got home from work but she was really dry when I checked her later on but not to the point where she was wilted thankfully. Definitely should have given her a small drink in the morning. Feeding every other day till runoff. The runoff is coming out in the 850-900 ppm range with a ph of about 6.1 which is good for me seems like roots organic original soil has been holding a steady ph for me through this and my last grow. Used 1 Tablespoon of molasses to one gallon of R.O. water which came out to 355 ppm adjusted ph then used in between nute feedings for this week. Because of this I didn't use any additional Cal/Mag nutes. I am hoping the added magnesium and other goodies in the molasses will help build up some more terpenes and build a more complex smell to the buds over the next few weeks. She is already starting to smell divine! Removed some of the lowest leaves and bud sites from the lower 1/3 of the plants and I have included a few photos of my fan leave tie back technique pulling the largest fan leaves to the sides and rear of the main cola. You can see the direction of the fan leaves in the aerial views. This allows more light to reach the bud sites on the main cola. Also I am trying a branch pinching technique by squeezing the lower branches below the buds then giving them a good bend but not to the point of doing a complete super cropping on them. I typically don't like to stress out auto flowers too much and cause any hermies. I will do this for week 6 and 7 would like to see if it enhances bud/resin development in the end. Light PPF/PAR, DLI and LVPD are the same as week 5.

Week 7 Smell is picking up more so I was forced to hook up my carbon filter. Started off with my final application of beneficial microbes for the grow. Next the girls got an increase in nutes for the next watering which included a little extra pop of PK 13/14 hope this will help kick in a bit more calyx growth and density in the buds over the next few weeks. Nutes went in at 845 ppm, runoff was under 1000 ppm so they are definately eating their fill at this point. Runoff ph is still great running between 6.0 to 6.3 which is in the zone. Feeding about 1/2 gallon to the point of a fair amount of runoff checking runoff ppm each time. Starting a wet dry cycle which is working out to every other day. So I'm getting in 3 feedings a week. Performed some more plant torture by squeezing and bending the stems just below the buds creating some medium/high stress in hopes of increasing resin and terpene production. A few pistils are starting to dry and turn orange on some buds. Led light intensity was increased. PPF/PAR meter readings are in the 625 to 685 umoles range giving me a DLI of 45 to 49.32 moles per 20 hrs of light. This is about the maximum I am willing to expose my plants to in order to prevent leaf and bud burn. Since my plants vary in height I do not put anything directly under the center of the light which is running well over 700/800 umoles. Main colas are kept to the outer edge or corners of the lights range. I take a dozen or more readings at the tops of and sides of the buds to establish the correct placement of the pots. Trying to maintain optimum light intensity during the peak weeks of bud building to force tight/dense calyx development. Exposing them to too much light could actually hinder bud development so there is a fine line between creating stunted loose airy buds and nice dense ones. Maintaining a nice even "lights on" temperature of 77 F in the tent with an average of 53% humidity. Leaf temperature is averaging 72 F giving me a LVPD of 1.00 kPa.👍

Week 8 The smell reminds me of Juicy Fruit gum which was a favorite back in the day. Apologies to my EU/Worldly friends if your not familiar with this gum. The girls are still hungry still gulping down nutrients at the end of the week. Using about 1/2 gallon of nutes every 2 days to point of nice amount of runoff. Will sneak in one last feeding start of week 9 then let these girls dry out a bit then start my flush middle of week 9. Guesstimated harvest around day 70 which seems pretty typical for most of my grows so far using 2.2 gallon pots running lights 20 hours a day. This will give me a 10 to 14 day period to flush. I'm continuing to use a modest wet dry cycle until the end of the grow. The dominant plant is already showing some nice trichome cloudiness/milkiness but no signs of any ambers. Calyx are thick with trichomes and are beginning to swell up. The rest are behind a few days or more showing a lot of clear but mostly half cloudy/milky trichomes. It looks like I may have to stagger my feeding,flush and harvest as they won't be ripe all at the same time. Seeing as I had a staggered start with a couple of seeds in the beginning I've been expecting this. PPF/PAR & LVPD are the same as week 7.

Week 9 gave the dominant plant one last feeding at the beginning of the week using same dosage as week 8. The rest received a second feeding. Let them dry out a bit then saturated each pot with R.O. water mixed with 8 ml Flawless Finish solution. Allowed them to sit 4-5 hrs then ran 5-6 gallons R.O. water through each pot bringing my runoff in the 100 ppm range. I allowed them to dry fairly thoroughly before next watering of slightly less than a 1/2 gallon of R.O. every second day when needed. Dominant plant seems to be flushing well with some nice colors starting to come through. The rest are holding on to their nutes a bit longer than expected and will need addition flushing to bring down the runoff ppm. Still expecting a staggered harvest starting at 70 days for the dominant plant and 4- 5 days later for the rest. I guess they're done when they're done. Seeing mostly cloudy trichomes with some random ambers on the dominant with mostly half cloudy and cloudy mixed on the rest. Buds look fairly with a nice leaf to calyx ratio. Calyx are swelling up. Smell is incredible almost like a sweet but ripe honeydew melon. Plant heights vary between 14" to 22". Backed off my light PPF/PAR meter reading 450-500 umoles. Dropped my humidity which is bouncing between 40% when drier and 45% after watering.

Gave them the big chop day 70. Mostly cloudy/milky with about 5% amber trichomes. Seeing the trichomes will continue to ripen over the next 2-3 days after harvest this will give me a nice ripeness range to sample. Wet trimmed the buds tipping any sugar leaves not completely covered in trichomes. Hung for 3 days at 73 F and 50% humidity. Days 4 to 7 hung at 73 F and 55 to 60% humidity. Smaller buds were removed first and transferred to glass ball jars with digital hygrometer. Jar tops where removed and replaced 3 - 4 time daily allowing fresh air in and excess humidity over 64% out. When largest buds were placed inside jars at day 7 humidity levels inside where 68%. Largest buds were temporarily transferred to Teflon pans for 6 to 8 hours a day then put back into jars. After 3-4 days I was able to achieve a relatively stable 62% to 63% humidity in all the jars then added Boveda 62% packs. Final buds have a nice smell and the color is starting to lighten up during the cure with density of 8 out of 10. Definitely top notch bud.