White Mountain cultivator: Permanant

Google "coco for cannabis". All your answers will be there.

doh.. week 7 of 2026-1 diaries, but that's the early flower formula... essentially teh same as vege but 120-130ppm N.

Any soilless medium is basically an equivalent as long as it doesn't impede roots or make the plant work harder than necessary to grow. coco coir - mix 2:1 with perlite or vermiculite et al. (the pre-packed 70/30 is fine too)... Not too chunky. #2 perlite or #3 (aka 'coarse') vermiculite is good. Have to be careful on these sizes because they are not 100% uniform. This is based on what you'd typically see in the US. bug chunky shit isn't good. e.g. leca balls look cool, but they are less effective by comparison. soiless growing is simple. Provide a complete diet, slightly tweak for flower, and you can hit the ground running with predictably excellent results, if you start with a good formula. Checkout cocoforcannabis.com -- articles, guides and dr. photon's corner - ignore the rest. Don't be incredulous about the importance of teh 10% runoff or more... always fertigate, always get 10% runoff or more. It is one of the primary benefits of soilless growing. It eliminates certain causes of problems related to buildup and maintains a consistent pH without even trying - assuming things are ph balanced when you pour them in. You can still overfeed, but it will never be because of buildup. The 10% runoff maintains an equilibrium of nutrients over time relative to your fertilizer formula. I'd suggest jacks 3-2-1 setup. You can buy generic calcium nitrate and foodgrade, non-perfume epsom salts. Thery are cheap. The base, you would buy Jack's 5-12-26 Part A hydro - made by J.R. Peters. If this is not available where you live, there are several other brands that use a very similar setup -- a "base" fertilizer then mixed with calcium nitrate and epsom salt to round it out. Again, generics on the latter 2 parts is cheaper. With jacks i'd also buy the "No-N 0-12-26 Part A" so you can more easily drop nitrogen in flower while maintaining other nutrient levels -- but if just testing soilless out, maybe hold off on that until you know for sure you want to continue growing with a soiless method. jacks, cropsalts, kosher salts, masterblend, megacrop, southern Ag are all brands that sell something similar... think even athena and floraflex too, but you'll pay 5x more for those brands. Jacks has a ppm rundown on their mix... there's a guy on youtube that's a bit of a douchebag, but he too has a ppm breakdown, or use an app/website like hydrobuddy. Even if you get a different brand, i'd try to match their mixed ratio and concentration with other brands. The apps make it easy to do. The formula is what matters, not the brand. Soiless/hydro fertilizers are 100% solutble / 100% plant ready upon dissolving. You don't need microbes or myco etc.. none of that stuff applies to soiless/hydro growing as far as providing nutrition is concerned. consider other options than coco coir... the 70/30 coco+perlite is convenient, but you get one bad batch and plants struggle or die. If not buffered properly it's poisonous to plants. Using something like Pro-mix HP or BX mixed with appropriate vermiculite or perlite is just as good and less of a concern with quality control. Marijuana companies are a bit sketchy on things that require high techinical skills, lol, in my opinion. Usually some amateurs re-branding existing products on the market that have been sold for far longer and far more professional about it = better track records. the gas:water mix is far more important than whether you use coco coir or some other inert option. It's not magic. in fact when not buffered properly it's absolutely poisonous to plants. 2:1 ratio for coco coir and 1:1 ratio for sphagnum peat moss base -- the latter holds more water, so to get to the same beneficial gas:water mix it needs a bit more perlite or similar. There's nothing that coco does that can't be matched with a proper ratio of perlite.. even coco needs 'some'. check out my 2026 diaries.. think week 4 and 7 have a PPM breakdown of each nutrient... anything in the same ballpark will have similar results. Local variables (temp, rh and atmospheric co2) will impact just how concentrated you need it to be, but those ratios keep everything available and not impeding each other around roots.