Cinderella 99

👉5th plant this year, 3 gallon cloth pot. 👉 4x4x6.8 tent. I added aq wifi camera to monitor the temperature, and because I love just looking at my plants, now I can check up on it where ever I go. Using two Phlizon 1200 led lamps. Will use the the veg lights for each lamp and at flower flip change to the bloom lights. 👉The Marigold plant is a pest deterrent... for everything but spider mites that is. I have had fungus gnats appear almost the instant the marigold isnt there, and disappear just as quickly when they bloom. So I keep it for those. I treat the room around the tent to prevent spider mites (which have been found in my house). 👉Placed the seed in ro water 7/24. Placed into paper towel next morning placed in covered dish. Tap root was emerging by next morning,7/26. continued soak till the afternoon of 7/27, then placed in the coco coir/clay pebble medium at 1/4" depth and covered with clear cup. Turned on the veg and bloom lights for each lamp to raise the temperature above 80 and warm the media. The seedling emerged from the surface on 7/28. Set lights to veg only and the room temps returned to 78. I left the cup over the seedling till this morning, 7/31. 👉 The technique Im using for irrigation/feeding is called Frequent Fertigation. I do all the feedings by hand and do it twice a day. I would do 3 if I didnt have a job. All irrigation events are with nutrients in the water. run-off of 10-30% minimum at each fertigation event to keep nutrients from building up and maintaining a consistent EC range in the media that is optimum for nutrient absorption. The EC of the run-off is measured and if it exceed 30+Ec in the run-off either a low EC rinse is required or a very high volume of nutrient water. I like to do the low EC rinse followed by a normal EC fertigation. This usually results in lowering the run-off EC. This method also can help remedy any nutrient issues very quickly. I could automate the watering but my fear of leaks has held me back until I have time/money to make a system that can capture any possible leaks.

👉The tent is averaging 80F in the upper level of the tent above the lights. The temperature on top of one of the light fixtures is averaging just 1 degree higher. I am moving the fans around and watching the temps throughout the day to see the averages. I monitor the temps by viewing the tent on the wifi cam. Trying to find the optimum fan placements. During the fall my HVAC wont cycle as much so the tent will be warmer even though I vent to outside with good air exchange. I may need to ad one more fan when cooler weather gets here at the same time as bud time. I may ad a higher CFM fan (current is 195cfm). That would be a change to a 6" and 400cfm. May not be practical but may be necessary to avoid temperature spikes that I experienced in the spring due to mild outdoor temps. That would also cause high humidity due to less a/c cycles. A dehumidifier adds heat to the room so its only good for colder weather. I may have to press my luck with the wife and run the a/c at 68 in the fall. 👉Anyway...thats why I am monitoring temperatures closely...trying to stay ahead of issues without throwing money at it unless really needed. 👉Increased the volume of feed water to 1l 2x a day. Get 200-400ml run off. Monitoring run of pH and EC to determine volume and frequency of fertigation. The hardest part at this stage is keeping the media moist without wasting too much. It pours straight thru until the roots get developed. So I'll know when that occurs when the water cant pour straight thru anymore. 1 liter seems to be the minimum to moisten the media. Its important for this style of growing (frequent fertigation) to keep the media freshly moist to keep it buffered. 👉The vegling is looking pristine, short with virtually no light stretch. Its just at the point where I will start to be able to see the growth changes each time i visit the tent.

👉Started week three nutrients a on 8/12. Its a little stronger and incrementally increased the EC over a few fertigation events till its at 1.5ec (middle of the recommended EC target). tonight's fertigation was 1 liter @ 5.9pH 1.40 EC. (I use a medical grade calibrat-able pH/EC meter and calibrate it every day). 👉My temperature monitoring has hit a snag. All the thermometers tell different lies. The humidity is also way different between the two hygrometers. I have a calibrated thermo probe I use at work and will bring it soon to find the drift of each thermometer. 👉The hygrometers take a little basic science experiment to find the drift from actual relative humidity. There are multiple recipes for this online. But the jist of it is place a small amount of salt in a small cup, add enough water to wet the salt so its like wet sand. Then place the meter and the salt inside a sealed clear container, such as a baggie(if using a baggie make sure there is come air in the bag). seal the container and let is sit for 2-5 days. The relative humidity will max out inside the container at 75%. Whatever the meter reads is what the drift is so you just ad or subtract for the display to get the actual relative humidity. Just search "hygrometer calibration" and u will find lots of pages with more details. 👉C99 is looking good, staying short with no light stretch and is building its photosynthesis factory bigger every day. my marigold has become quite the photosythesis factory itself. Its blooming like crazy. Its just two individual plants in a 1 gallon cloth pot. I feed it the run off from the C99. I have grown oregano and dill in the tent before and they grew way faster and way bigger than any that I have grown outside. this winter I will probably ad oregano to the tent. Home grown herbs are unlike anything you get in a store. Growing herbs was my practice for growing weed. So much relief and joy since its gone legal. I grew indoors one year in college...a large grow that produced a lot of great weed. I was so stressed all the time when growing that due to the risk. Now...the only risk are normal risks...like pissing off the wife because the maturing buds smell up the whole house when I forget to close the tent.

👉With each day it grows a noticeable amount. Its staying short and the leaves are actually touching the media on the lower set. Its actually on its 3rd node, and i will probably top it on the 4rth. I lowered the light from 36 to 24". This week i will lower it again to 18". The plant is short but its growth is still vigorous enough. under the leaves there is vegitation emerging as well. I like the fact that its staying short, I will probably need every inch of of my tent so the longer its stays short and grows like a bush, the better. 👉Im doing the week 3 nutrient schedule for another week because week 3 is the highest levels of grow nutrient. My EC target is 1.7 and is near the high end of the recommended range. I usually start with 2 gallons and then mix and pH the batch. If the EC is high I then ad pHd/calmag/ArmorSI water to lower the EC to the desired range. Im feeding 1 liter of nutrient solution and the runoff is an average of .6l. I give this 2x a day. The EC is slowly creeps up over 3-4 days and when it gets to 25 to 30+ EC I use a liter of rinse solution before the next fertigation. the rinse solution is same water source as the nutrient mix, (RO water at 5 micro-Siemens from a medical grade RO unit) with Armor SI and Calmag pH's to 5.9. The machine isnt at my house so I mule the water in 6 gallon water carriers. Eventually the plant will be big enough that more solution is needed at each feeding. During the Critical Purple and Hindu grows, the EC would actually never guild up because the plants were absorbing a lot of the nutrients. I will gauge the needed inflow volume of nutrient solution by the amount of run-off. Currently 1 liter is what I determined is the minimum needed to keep the coco wet and buffered. As the plant absorbs more water the drain off will decrease. I will target 20-30% run-off from inflow volume. EC value also determines inflow volume but to save on mixed nutrients I like to precede a feeding with the rinse solution if the EC is too high. 👉I disinfect the water jugs 1 time a week with 1% bleach. I disinfect my nutrient solution dispensing jugs at each batch mixing. My watering can and measuring vessel, I rinse with the H2O2 spray at each use. 👉To help keep the grow clean I have a 1 gallon garden sprayer filled with water and 60ml of H2O2. The recipe is usually just 30ml/gallon, but I wanted it a little stronger. I spray the exterior of my cloth pot once a week to rinse of the build up nutrients and prevent mold, mildew and green fungus. I also use the spray to disinfect the drain trays as I swap them out after a feeding. I have a couple dozen white wash cloths that I use to help clean and dry things. I use fresh wash cloth each day, and keep everything as clean as possible.

👉99 is looking healthy. Nice wide fan leaves from the 2nd and 3rd nodes. It hasnt grown as fast vertically as i expected ...but thats not a bad thing. during the week I kept the 3rd week nutrient mixture going because it looked like it was a little behind the average as far as overall development. Today its still not got much spacing between nodes, but I believe its the 5th node. 👉My plan was to top it a couple of days ago, but I procrastinated until today. I felt that topping would remove too much growth, so I FIM'd instead. I top herbs and flowers in the garden all the time, but havent topped any cannabis plants in a long time. Ive never fim'd either, and if i did it wrong then f I missed either way. 👉During the week I also transitioned the plant into the center of the tent with both lights directed at it. The lights are angled to put the plant in the center of both lights foot print. This will provide angled lighting from two directions. I will also be rotating the plant at least daily. I rotate for balancing out the plants overall light access, and for inspecting and attending to the plant as needed. 👉When I changed the light set-up, I also increased the feeding volume from 1liter 2x to 1.5liter. This grow I am monitoring the pH at every feeding. In my previous 4 plants i was just measuring my pH when I mixed it. During the Hindu I discovered that there was pH drifting daily. So I use the pH/EC meter at each feeding and adjust the pH as needed. So far the pH has gone up each day a little bit. I use a dropper to add Ph down to keep the pH at 5.8 or 5.9. I keep the batch aerated with a couple of air stones and a small aquarium air pump. 👉I have done to low EC rinses when the EC was +.25 EC above the inflow EC. So for the week it was 1.7 in and the outflow didn't get above 1.95ec. The outflow volume has been way above 30%, but until the plant starts drinking more, the volume is important to keep the media buffered. I will probably keep it at 3 liters total per day till the plant starts drinking more during the last 3rd of the life cycle. 👉When I open the tent the aroma of the Marigolds is nice. Its noticeable but not intense. The Marigold has really been going crazy with flowers. I am going to have to start another one soon because this one will soon be too big and present a pest and mildew factory risk because I wont be able to keep it clean of dead plant matter. I may try to clone it. That would be way faster of a turn around because the marigold had bunches of flowering nodes and new growth. And if your still reading this and haven't read the first week, I keep the Marigold as a pest barrier. I have an older house full of spiders and did a pepper plant test run of the tent that ended in a massive aphid and spider mite invasion. So before i grew I researched organic barrier prevention methods and Marigolds were at the top. During my Hindu grow I proved to myself that they work when I had to take out the overgrow marigold bush i started at the beginning and its replacement plant hadn't bloomed yet, a few days window of no blooms and fungus gnats appeared. I remediated the media with insectcidal soap and manual removal, and then the marigold opened 3 blooms and I haven't seen another bug since. 👉But the Marigolds arent the only way I prevent unwanted pests. Before I set up the tent I treated the room for pests with normal household pest barrier. Along the windows and floor boards I applied a an aerosol spider killing spray. Basically I fumigated the room I was using. When I had the test grow disaster I reaplied the treatments to the room. To the interior of the tent I wiped all the surfaces with insecticidal soap. I then wiped down the entire interior of the tent with an H2O2 solution. Then I sprayed the exterior of the tent with a Neem oil solution. I applied extra to every opening. I occasionally turn off the fans inside the tent, and give a light Neem oil spray application to the exterior of the tent. I turn the fans back on after 20 minutes. I havent seen any signs of pests in the room the tent is in, nor in the tent itself. With fall coming I will need to re-treat the room itself with insect barrier chemicals. Hopefully I can wait till 99 has been harvested so I can do it between plants.

👉The plant was 11" tall. it probably would have been 12 or more if not FIM'd. It almost doubled in its overall size and total vegetation. The FIM has all the secondary branches poking out from under the large fan leaves. I do a little tucking to help them soak up the rays. I may not have FIM'd low enough or something because the leaves that were the outside of the growth node I snipped have gotten big. They just look like they have no tips. I think I ended up with the desired FIM goal of 4 new growth tips that will be cola's. 👉I will assist the branches get maximum access to light by rotating the pot frequently, I will also either support or direct them with bamboo steaks that I will attach to the metal spikes that are attached to the hoop ground the base of the pot. Its just the top of a tomato cage turned upside down with the top hoop around the base of the pot. It fits it snugly and doesn't slip. This allows me to attach the support steaks to the outside of the pot instead of inside in the media. I didn't like having the plant inside a cage or with sticks in the way when its small. It allows me easy access to the plant, and an easy way to add the support when the plant needs it as it get bigger. 👉I switched to week 4 nutrients this week and will probably be a week behind the timeline of the nutrient chart from GH because the plant had a slow start. The pH is always targeted to 5.9, the EC for a batch is 1.54. I have learned enough in the short time Im growing to understand what each nutrient week batch can do for the plant and am fairly confident I can judge the plants growing stage to match it. The 4th week is called transition and I believe thats accurate for my plant. it hasn't declared as of today, but I am anticipating that this coming week some time. 👉The runoff has been very consistent and I only added the low EC rinse of 1.5 liter one time. I always immediately follow a low ec feeding with a regular batch of nutrient. The last two days the run-off volume has started to lessen and the EC staying only 20EC above the inflow. Ive been averaging .75l for total run-off volume following a 1.5l fertigation. Tonight's run-off was .5l and 1.74EC. The lower run-off is due to the plant having more roots and being able to drink more of the moisture. when the run-off drops below 20% of the inflow volume I will increase the total volume in 1/4l increments.

👉Its been taking its time. I have looked at the way other growers photo-period plants had developed and when they switched their light schedules to 12/12. I know that you can switch when ever you want, but I wanted to do it when the plant looked right. I believe I am at that stage. So starting this Saturday I will change the light schedule to 12/12. To make the transition easy I have a second outlet time that I have programmed to the 12/12 schedule and I will simply swap the timers. 👉The FIM must not have been accurate, because the main growth node just kept growing, so I topped just the small growth node at its base. This seamed to do the trick. The plant has gained 6" in height since last week. Its gotten nice and full, and looks like a sphere of green. The secondary branches are in good position and get full light. I hope I haven't gone too long in veg and the plant gets too big. Since its the only plant in the tent it has plenty of horizontal space. But the vertical will be the real challenge. I can shorten the legs of the stand the pot sits on and place a large plastic container to set the stand inside and use as the catch tray for run-off. That will be about 5". The tent is 6.6" tall. I have each light attached to a separate pole at the top. These poles have room to slide outwards from center to move the lights as wide as possible. I attached a metal ring to the pole and a ratchet pulley attached to one end of the pole to the ring. At the other end of pole a ratchet pulley is attached, the clip is run thu the ring. This allows maximum height adjustment. The pulley attached to the ring adjusts the lights position under the pole front to back. can easily adjust the position of the lights around the top of the tent as needed. The lights have the stock clasps and wire rig that come with most leds. Instead of attaching each one to the support clip I attached each one to its opposite corner so they are doubled. The wires all meet in the center and I hooked the ratchet pulley clip around where they cross. Next I took a zip tie and zipped it around the hook and wires. This has created an adjustable angle for each light as well as reducing its hanging leaning. By being able to angle each light I should have a few more inches at the top in the center for the plant to grow too. If it does get near the top it wont be ideal. As slow as the plant has grown I am hopeful it will end up being the size that is perfect for the tent. 👉The plant has started having roots poke out of the cloth pot at the bottom. These roots never push very far out and they disappear after a few days. The plant also has begun drinking significantly more. The run-off for 1.5l dropped to only 20-30 mil. The EC also shot up so I have done one low EC feeding of 1.5l. I also increased the volume of feeding liquid to 2l and 2.5l alternating. The increased volume is helping keep the EC in range. There is more than 30% run-off (as much as 1.5l) but none of the run-off goes to waste. I have a patio container garden of peppers, various basils, and a giant Cherokee Purple tomatoes plant. I give these plants the run-off and they are flourishing. When I switch the lights to 12/12 on Saturday, I will switch to the early transition nutrient mix. 👉99 is looking healthy the next few weeks will be the most fun as I watch the magic flowers grow some good big buds.

👉this is week start of week 8 and the switch to the 12/12 schedule. the plant is on the 6th week on the GH nutrient chart for its flora series drain to waste schedule.This is considered early bloom and the only difference from the transition nutrients is the reduction of FloraGrow and addition of Liquid KoolBloom. The water I use is RO water from a medical grade industrial machine (not on site). Its conductivity is .04ms. Its 98.5% pure water. I believe this is helping me mix my nutrients at full strength and achieve the middle to upper end of the recommended ec range. The volume of plant uptake has increased quite alot. I am averaging 2 liters two times a day, but as the week progressed a couple of high flow fertigations were needed to keep the run off below +30ms. I feed my Marigold plant the run-off after Ive measured it. The fertigation station is in a closet in another room and doorways wipe my memory so I fed 99 the runoff a couple days ago (9-16). So I fertigated 1.5 liter immediately. That runoff was close to 30+. The lights were going out so the next morning i fertigated with 4liters. That runoff was +10. That night was 2liters w/.9 liter runoff +10. I plant on keeping the flow a little high to help prevent any nutrient deficiencies while its doing the early flowering stretch. 👉The plant is lush and green and growing as a nice round bush. Stout main stalk and is 21". I began plucking lower leaves that were reducing airflow around the base. These could pose a mildew risk if left on because they are in contact with the pot and reducing airflow across the top of the media. They were shaded now by the expanding branches above so it was time to remove them. I like to take leaves gradually, one or two per fertigation event. I also have taken off the bottom 3 branches. They were healthy and had plenty of potential bud sites...but they would be in the shade and never meet the potential of the upper buds. I may take two more low branches, but I will keep them if they keep stretching outward and upwards and stay in the direct light. When they start flowering full time I will have removed as many of the potential larf bud nodes on the interior of each branch. Nothing extreme, just the basic lollipop on the bottom and reducing larf production up top. 👉I am using a cordless work light to make the pictures better. My phone camera flash isnt bright enough to over come the LED blurple and the addition of the very bright work light makes the picture way better. As you can see I will still be taking some of the pix with the LEDs on, but also use the camera flash and the work light and that helps bring out the green better. But lights out show a more detailed realistic image and I will include more pix this way. 👉Switching to 12/12 has been a challenge. I work varied hours and making it home before lights out is hit and miss. Also being a stoner I forget stuff if I get distracted by a movie, a sporting event or a shiny object, so visits to the tent during dark times will happen. I have green lights installed in the room and in the hallway. I have a good headlamp with green LEDs. I missed the first day and had to fertigate after hours...sigh. I took pictures with the green light on but no flash.

👉Finally 99 is declared its fem. First Pistols appeared Friday and now they are all over and the flowers are starting to form. Staying with the early bloom nutrient mix on the GHE schedule. Increasing the inflow to 2.25l/feeding done 2x a day. Ive rinsed it with a 2l low EC fertigation once. I ad ArmorSI and Calmag to the 5.9pH RO water and the EC is .45. I follow the low EC solution with a regular mix of 2l. 👉 99 is green and lush, and is a nice little bush. I anticipate that it will take up most of the tent by the time its done. I have removed the bottom sets of branches and will have two branches that will not be in prime light, but should get good enough light to make decent buds. I have also snipped off some smaller branches off the interior that would never get out of he shade. Im done with the majority of pruning, but may still take some leaves later on as needed. I prefer to leave as many photo synthesis factories as possible on the plant. The vegitation stage seemed to go in slow motion but the plant has been growing steadily everyday. This is the first photo-period plant I have grown since 1981. 👉This week I will be doing a little tucking to keep some of the lower bud sites in the light, but the way its growing I dont have to do much of anything to assist it. I will add support to the branches later as needed. Growers choice claims its a fast flowering plant and would take 55-65 days in flower. I hope it goes that fast but I doubt it. I anticipate 75+ based on how its been maturing so far.

👉Weeks like this are fun. seeing the young blooms growing a little every day. I have plucked a few more lower leaves off that were super shaded. I also trim off small branches growing in the interior of the canopy. Those little bud branches would only produce larf. I only take one or two at a time and don't do it everyday. I will probably stop trimming larf sights next week. Its spreading out nicely and has gained a few inches of height as it stretches. Ive had to adjust the light height a few times to maintain 18". Love seeing the leaves on the bud sites un-furl. In the middle of the spiral of emerging leaves are delicate translucent white hairs. I will start doing microscope inspections and pictures as well as pictures enlarged. i hope to capture the beauty of this magical flower, unfortunately I only have a cell phone camera. 👉The plant has been drinking more and Ive been able to keep the ec in the desired range of 1.58-1.88 EC. I did rinse 2xs with low EC (.43EC calmag and Armorsi only) which were followed by regular nutrient feed. I am giving 2.5L 2x a day on average, as much as 3L. My run-off is usually 50% total volume or more. The runoff of the follow up feeding of regular nutrient solution has been as high as 95%. My run-off volume may seem excessive to some but I wanted to keep the whole pot saturated with full strength solution so there is no loss of momentum. I use low strength rinse that just has the Armorsi and calmag to help keep the whole media as optimum as possible even though I rinse most of it out as well with the follow up fertigation. The solution is not that expensive overall. I make 4 gallon batches at a time every 2-3 days. This may seem like a lot of bother, but I chose this style of growing to give me a lot to do because if I didn't I would just sit there and stare at it anyway. 👉I am changing the nutrient solution mix to the mid-bloom mix on the GHE drain to waste schedule. I will install 3 bamboo steaks to be used later as bud support. The way its looking it will make its own nice canopy and potentially make some good big buds. This is a sativa dominant strain and has slightly thinner branches than an Indica. I hope the buds are big and need some help staying upright. I have a new fan arriving in a couple of days, its 6" variable speed 440cfm. I will re-do the 4" ducting as well. I will place this fan in the tents ceiling port instead of the wall port Im using with the 4" fan. With cooler days coming the tent will experience higher temps because the HVAC doesn't run as much and the 190cfm 4" fan isnt up to the task of moving enough air to keep the heat from building up even though it has a matching fan as the inflow. I have pretty much gotten the tent temperature even from mid-height to the top, and I hope the larger more powerful fan will create enough air movement to prevent what I experienced last spring when on nice cool days outside my tent was 90F (Critical Purple with the heart break of bud rot). Im also using one less light in the tent so I should be able to keep the tent stable and cool.

👉Its week 11 and the plant is looking beautiful. Lots of bud sites all over the plant. The plant is looking healthy and seems to be thriving. The tips of the leaves on the new growth at the top of the plant show a brown. I had a day when the outflow of the fertigation was +30. I did a low EC fertigation right away and more regular EC. Since then Ive kept the run off within 10 by preceding ever other fertigation with a low EC feeding with just enough volume to get a few mls of run-off. On the GHE drain to waste feed chart Im on Mid-Bloom mixture. I am guessing it may be 2-3 weeks before its in 'late bloom' stage. Im still mixing full strength and the EC for a batch is 1.5ms. While I believe that by allowing the run-off of fertigation to reach +30 is what cause the brown tips. Im also mindful that I may need to dilute the batch a little. To see the effects of nutrient/media issues it can take a couple of days if its subtle. So if I continue to see the bright green tips of new leaves turn brown then Ill lower dilute the mix. Ive seen no other possible indicators of negative issues. 👉The plant is filling out nicely all over. Marble sized fuzzy pearls are scattered all over. There isnt much aroma besides the typical young cannabis plant smell. Ive squeeze a couple small buds, there are visible trichomes and its sticky to touch, but no notable aroma. The trichomes are coming out all over the place and it should make for a very fuzzy plant. 👉I have removed a couple more small branches and shaded leaves and will only take vegetation that is showing issues or totally shaded and showing lack of vigor. I have installed the bamboo steaks that I will use for support for the branches. I attach them to the metal posts attached to the hoop around the base of the pot. This keeps the steaks out of the media. The Plant is 36" and the early flower stretch seems to have slowed. I have 6 more inches of light adjustment height before I have to resort to spreading the light supports and angling the lights to allow for more height. 👉This coming week should be more of the same as 99 slowly matures. I have a new fan that I may install. Currently I have a 4" 190cfm exhaust fan (vented outside). I anticipate as temperatures drop outside my tent temps with rise like they did last spring. Im not using a cob light this time and surprisingly the temps have stayed steady at 78-80. The new fan is a 6" and 440cfm. I have a variable speed controller to use on it and will hopefully be able to have more control and success at maintaining cool temperatures better during the more mild weather (sounds convoluted I know).

👉Last week I was noting that the aroma hadn't become that noticeable yet. Two days later my wife was spraying air freshener down the hall when I had the tent open AND the door to the room. She could smell it. So she sprayed air-freshener. Not on the plants just way down the hallway. So I was happy because that meant 99 was going to be even more fun to experience as I open the tent and enjoy the sweet magical smells. Since then Ive kept the door closed to the room when the tent is open, and Ive reloaded the automatic air-freshener that keeps her happy. She doesn't share my love for Sweet Leaf, but I told her before I married her that if it weren't for it being illegal Id be growing it...and now its legal...I just do my best not to stank up the house (which is head heaven to me). 👉I haven't installed the 6" fan yet, I still get great airflow and the temps have remained a in a good range, 76-79 degrees F. at night the temps were as low as 65, and averaged around 68. Fair weather is predicted the few weeks. I anticipated that on cool days I would have higher than optimum temps in the tent because thats what happened last spring. To avoid this I decided to just the two blurple phlyzon 1200 leds and only use the stage appropriate lights only. This is only about 250 watts actual draw. Im pleased that this is providing enough light to make the plant very happy and keep the temps in range. In combination with the lights I have also been monitoring the temperature at 3 levels in the tent and have moved the fans into various positions to try and find a the best circulation to remediate heat. Right now things seem to be set in a way that is helping optimize air circulation and prevent heat build up. 👉99 has stopped stretching at 37". The pearls of fuzz last week are now magical glowing balls of white and green tentacles that seem to wave knowingly at me as I look in close. The trichoms are going crazy and making me giddy. The trichoms are extending well out onto the leaves, much like the gorilla did. Ive been rubbing the leaves of the low branch shaded buds to get a feel for the bud growth and the resin aroma as it develops day to day. My first 4 plants I was very reluctant to disturb any of the flowers on the plant. They were all sacred and I couldn't waste a single morsel. This mindset came from a life time of rationing my stash because of cost and availability. I am happy no that I dont have to hoard my weed any more. i can grow more than I can possibly smoke, and Ill always have the type of weed Ive always dreamed of...the weed I grew myself. Its very nice to have 0 stress about risking arrest while growing good big buds. 👉The burnt tips are evident all over the plant. Its the very tips of that latest few leave sets. Im not trying to be too reactive to it because its just a slight nutrient burn. On the nutrient chart (GHE feed to drain chart) I am on the last mid-bloom mix. i will keep on this mix probably a week or two. It depends on the plant itself. I have kept the EC of nutrients to 1.5-ish. Ive increased low EC feeding and until yesterday a 1 liter fertigation of .4 ec nutrient solution followed by a 2 liter 1.5ec fertigation would result in a runoff that was also 1.5ec. Yesterday the runoff was 1.8 EC (previous was 1.65). So today I did a low high fertigation and the runoff only dropped 5ec so it was 1.75. Tonight I did another 3liter low high fertigation and the run off was only 1.70 ec. I will continue this tomorrow and will eventually get it back down. The plant is showing no other signs of nutrient issues other then the small brown tips. I think i am staying ahead of it and will increase low high fertigations in a more routine manner than a reactive one. Perhaps Ill increase the volume of the low EC fertigation solution and leave the volume of the normal EC solution at near full recommended EC range.

👉Its day 32 for flowering and 84 days since start of germination. Im estimating I have 4 weeks or more of flowering fun. Its 37" tall and at its widest its about 36". Its a comfortable fit for the tent and I am very relieved it hasnt become a giant. The temperatures have been easier to control than anticipated. I am sure not using 3 lights all set on full have a lot to do with it. The plant is not stretching up much if and the buds are growing into plump promising magical orbs of translucent green white and orange hairs. The orange hairs showed up this week. The frost continues to proliferate and to make me giddy. The overall aroma of the plant is really very modest. My wife still hates it, so it must be strong enough! The aroma of the resin when rubbed by my fingers is sweet and intoxicating. Its not pungent, but not as mild as the plants aroma overall. The sticky resins aroma on my fingers has been hard for me to give a specific trait but have settled on sweet citrus evergreen. 👉Im on the mid bloom nutrient schedule using the GHE feed to waste schedule for week 9. I will probably switch to the late bloom nutrients next week. The plant is drinking alot, I give it average of 5liters per day. The run-off EC has been climbing to rinse levels every 2 days. I gave a 2 liter low EC (.43) fertigation followed by 2 liter regular strength solution fertigation whenever the EC was over 20 the previous fertigation event. I had been giving the run-off I collect to my patio garden and my wifes decorative plants. The first frost has occurred so the outdoor plants no longer need it. Now it just gets poured around the yard. I had been pouring it on one area off and on for a few months when I had extra run-off liquid. in that area the crab grass has disappeared. I will test another area but wont know the results until spring. 👉My Marigolds are loving the tent life. I cloned it a few weeks ago. The clone is looking thriving, but hasnt flowered yet. The mother is still a small proloific flowing factory. I have an old house. Spiders and bugs galore. My tent and the room its in continue to stay pest free. In part due to the marigold (proven barrier plant), also in part due to the way I treated the room with barrier method pesticides and neem oil on the exterior of the tent.

👉The plant is looking vibrant and seems to continue to flourish, albeit seemingly taking its sweet time. Seems like its in slow motion compared to its veg cycle. To see changes you have to look close or compare pix from a couple days apart. The flowers are getting more aromatic, and has the typical wonderfully sweet lemony stank think going on. Super frostiness as can be seen in the pix. The trichomes are totally illuminated by the lights used by my camera (flash and an LED worklight). May rival the gorilla glue for frosty overload. No new nutrient issues have shown up. The burned tips remain and I hope my good fortune continues. It developed a lot of smaller branches and will have lots of pop-corn buds. Shouldn’t be too much of a big deal and will add to the hash production in the end. 👉My time has been slightly curtailed due to work demands and I hadn’t been able to mule any water home until today. In the absence of the 98% pure water I get from a medical facility, Ive been using tap water run thru a 1cf carbon tank. The tank dechlorinates the water, I use it for my outdoor patio garden of herbs, peppers and single tomato plant. The pure water was 4micro siemens conductivity, the carbon tank water is 45micro siemens (tap is 245). The carbon tank water is far less reactive. This is evident when adjusting the pH. A batch made with the RO water needs just a few drops of pH down to reach desired pH. A batch made with the Carbon tank water takes a couple droppers full. Ive also noticed that the plant may not be able to absorb as much of the nutrients with the carbon tank water. This may be pure anecdotal stoner’s observation, but the EC of the run off has been almost impossible to get down to matching inflow. Its staying 20+ and shoots right up to 30+ each day. I started just giving double volume feed water and no low EC solution. Partly because I broke one of the jugs which I used for mixed solution batches. The high EC run-off may also be a result of the dried nutrients on the side of the pot being washed away more due to the higher volume of inflow. So I may be chasing my tail on this by giving full strength nutrients at double the volume with double run-off. Good thing is that you cant over water in coco unless you try really, really hard. 2 fertigations in one day isn’t even close. The plant is drinking more each day as measurement of the run-off compared to inflow shows the saturation volume. I fertigate in two steps when doing high volume, divide total volume in half and feed half and then measure the runoff. I then feed the second half and again measure the run-off. The difference between the inflow and run-off is the amount taken in by plant and lost to evaporation. I split the total in half to get a more accurate measurement of saturation level and plant intake/evaporation level. I then use that information to help predict how much solution should be given at the next fertigation event. This coming week I will be switching to the late bloom solution mix recipe for the GHE drain to waste chart. I mix it to the upper level strength for desired EC. The difference is slight. It removes rapid start from the mix, and reduces others slightly, except for bloom and micro. I should be able to return to the RO water for the rest of the grow. 👉I haven’t taken an actual measure of the height this week, but at tonight’s fertigation I measured the tips of the center colas were 15” from the light, so I will raise them in the morning back to 18”. The plant could probably take being fairly close to the lights, but I don’t think its nessessary to risk light stress if I don’t have to. There is still 6 more inches of verticle room to raise the lights. If the 99 decides to just keep going slow and steady, packing on bud-age, I can also spread the lights outward and angle the lights to give the two top colas more space.

👉The plant is healthy and continues to mature at a seemingly slow pace. Super frosty with a nice fresh aroma. The aroma isnt strong enough to garner many complains from the wife, and the few times she has complained she is just complaining to complain, I have great ventilation with 100% of tent air vented outside the house. The aroma is growing daily and I expect complaints to start next week every time I open the tent. Its a sweet lemony aroma and my marigolds are actually very strong. But she hates the smell of ANY plant. I used to dry my basils on a big rack in the living room. Truely glorious aroma fills the house...she complained bitterly. So if she complains I take it as an indicator Im growing it right! 👉Visually the buds are expanding at a very subtle rate. I've begun trichome hunting and they are mostly clear with some milky. Most of the pistols are orange now, but they are not dried out. I selectively pluck leaves that are in the shade and looking like they have lost their vigor. None have turned yellow, but when they are in the shade and start being curled and not flat, they have lost their vigor due to lack of light and would soon be yellowing anyway. The plant is filling the tent and is a nice moderate sized bush. I'll be watching for it to go into the ripen stage in probably 2 weeks or more...just a guess based on how slowly its been maturing. 👉I have been feeding on the late bloom mix on the General Hydroponics drain to waste schedule. I have given it slightly more cal-mag and bloom than the schedule mix rate. THe run-off has been raising faster than the previous plants and I rinse every other day. I believe this may be partly due to the algae Ive allowed to grow on the side of the pot. I didnt allow it to grow on purpose, but I stopped rinsing the exterior every few days with H2O2. This was partially due to work cutting into time available to work on the plant. THe 12-12 schedule is way harder to deal with than 18-6 that an auto uses. I have the lights on during the day time 8-8. I work 9-6 sometimes on-call hours as well. I had one after hours fertigation event. When this happens I use a green LED in the room, and a green led headlamp. I only do the fertigation and dont wait for the drainage, making it as short as possible. The last two days Ive been rinsing the exterior with a pressure sprayer of H2O2 and scrubbing with wash cloths after the fertigation. Way more algae than I thought. I may have to use a wet vac to try and remediate if the rinsing and wiping doesnt do the trick. The reason I think it may have been contributing to the run-off high EC values is because alot of the algae had started running off and was visible in the run-off.

👉Its that time of the grow when the plants aroma can creep oustide the tent and fill the room with the magic smell. Nice heady fragrance that always brings a bit of happiness with it. The flowers are slowly plumping up, and are super frosty! Not many white or newly emerging pistols. The leaves have began showing signs of possible calcium deficiency. Small brown spots that have slowly been apearing on the top leaves. I have been trying to ad 1/3 more calmag/gallon. I feed the nutrient solution at 5.9 pH. I did some research and calcium is metablolized a little higher than that and in hydroponics it can have a hard time metabolizing under certain scenarios. While this isnt hydro...its hydro-esc. Ive monitored the pH of the runnof and for the 3weeks I didnt rinse the outside of the pot and the algea got thick around the base, it was as low as 5.1pH. When doing a full saturation rinse the pH would not be higher than 5.6. In range but I hypothesize that the lower overall pH of the medium may have made it harder for the plant to absorb as much calcium as it would might need. Usually pH isnt a concern for doing frequent fertigation because the solution going in is in range. To address the obvious Calcium deficiency, regardless of its origin, I have given a a little extra in the nutrient solution. Im not as worried about the large fan leaves that have displayed the signs of calcium deficiency, as I am about making sure the flowers stay happy. Ive also increased my fertigation solution to 6.1pH. For the coming week I am changing tomorrow to the Ripen mixture on the GH drain to waste chart. My ec target will be 1.4ec. 👉The pix are very frustrating for me. My phone sux for close ups of plants. My old phone finally crapped out and was great for macro shots. The season for trichome hunting is here and the phone is marginal at best for facilitating this pursuit without taking steps like turning off every fan and trying to keep the plant totally still. The 40x jewelers loop is ok, but its very cheap and not optically perfect. Also the feild of focus when doing any close up observation or photography is very narrow making it even harder to get any real good trichome shots. I have a usb microscope that helps if you can get the plant not to move, but its ap stopped working after its own update a couple weeks ago. Maybe theyll figure it out before harvest. Currently the trichomes are mostly milky, some clears, and zero ambers as far as I can tell. 👉Before I started this grow I found out my research on marigolds was not as complete as it should have been. Marigolds are great at repelling lots of garden pests, like whiteflys and gnats and nematodes (when planted in the same pot). What I discovered is they can actually attract spider mites. I haven't seen any trace of ANY bugs in my tent. No spiders in the corners or ants or random wandering bug....all of wich are plentiful in and around my old country house. I have been treating the perimeter with typical household pesticides, and spray the exterior of the tent with neem oil every 3 months. I did find that Dill and other plants are good repellents for spider-mites. I might ad a second smaller tent to my grow at the end of this plants time and ad a couple herbs to the space. 👉I trimmed a bud off the main stalk that was deep in the shade and a branch that was also totally shaded and hanging down form its own weight. Its very fuzzy so Im also drying so I can get an early taste. Early larf usually isnt that strong and Im sure this will be no different but its fun to sample. I took them not to sample, but to slowly take off some of the lowest shaded larf. This plant will have a ton of popcorn. The way its looking, it will also have a decent amount of good big buds.

👉C99 is seemingly growing in slow motion. The plant has long since halted expanding itself, and is concentrating on looking pretty. Nice and plump, super frosty dense flowers that smell of light lemony pine. Ive been supporting the branches with the soft wire ties. I have used almost 30' of the garden wire to help support the buds weight. For the most part the branches are stout enough they might not really need my help, but It also serves as protection from over jostling on my part as I rotate the plant a little each day. The leaves are still vibrant green, except for my nutrient issue that reared its head last week. It does appear that I have corrected the issue...could be just wishful thinking. 👉The nutrient issue is quite likely the result of calcium deficiency. I had trended up my cal-mag volume above the mix recipe spec. Not a lot, was up to 3.5ml/gal. I did this to try and make up for any deficiency of calcium in my water source (medical grade 98% pure from a medical facility). I noted some purple creeping onto a couple of leaf stems. The leaves with the purple were also the ones at the top basking in the most intense light...ie the most productive. Ive been able to chase this away in the past by upping the calmag. however I didn't pay attention that the cal-mag I was using was 2x the strength of that in the feed chart. So it wasn't really hurting the plant at that level, but when I increased it I must have maxed out the saturation level of the calcium. My mixed nutrient solution would get cloudy and have stuff in a cloud near the bottom. This was most likely the calcium falling out of solution in the form of calcium carbonate (I think thats what my research showed), which the plant cant absorb like that. There were some other things that possibly could contribute to this scenario such as pH and bacteria in the water or nutrients. I disinfect my water vessels and nutrient dispensers religiously. My nutrients are still fresh and kept in cool dark place, and refrigerate the floranectar. But the pH of the mixture has been low instead of high because of removal of a couple of the nutrients like liquid Koolbloom and rapid start. So I had to use a lot of the pH up (bloom city brand). It may have affected it, so I may change to squeezed lemon juice. (As my hobby moves forward I will be moving to more organic methods so this is a start). Still have some reading to do on all of it. I also believe its under control by the run off. My runoff was skyrocketing way faster than normal. It would get 30+ec above limits within one day. I was rinsing alot. Since identifying and addressing the calmag dosage by reducing the volume, the EC runoff is very stable and right now Im at 3 days no rinse (was +25 tonight). The solution tank also remains clear. 👉Ive trimmed a couple more larf branches. The larf I trimmed last week has been dried and in a jar. Its the most potent larf Ive grown yet. Larf usually gives me mild buzz that tastes very green. Well this has piney taste, only a slight grassy taste when toked....and its strong enough that one hit is fun. I guess thats good news because this plant has a plethora of popcorn on it. 👉The coming week will be just more routine of fertigating and inspection. Watching for signs of amber, my target is 10-20%. Got the USB scope a new app and will be trichome hunting each day.

👉Had to throw in some lights on pix for fun. The colors look cool. I use a led work light to highlight parts of the pant and make them show green. The plant is frosty and smelling sweet. Not a strong pungent smell, but a light lemony pine, especially when touched. The lower row of branches has two or three smaller side branches with a few small plump super mega frosty nuggets. At Harvest I will keep track of these and cure them together for comparison. Been Trichome hunting and from what Ive been able to ascertain its mostly clear with some milky and zero amber. Its at the end of the timeline from Growers Choice, 65 days, and it looks like 10+ days to go. Its possible it may not get many Ambers. I will let the plant decide. Right now its still got green leaves, except the scars of the earlier nutrient burn and the calcium deficiency. Have plucked a few under canopy leaves that were droopy and shaded. The upped canopy of leaves are still perked up and the buds slowly plumping up. Very few emerging pistols, 95% are red. 👉The nutrient mix is the"ripen" recipe on the General Hydroponics Flora series, using the full line mixed to make 1.3ec solution. I target the pH to be 5.9. The runoff EC is back to a more predictable climb in ec with no spikes. I rinse fertigated twice using 5.9pH RO water with 1.5mil/gal Calmag only. The pot is saturated at approximately 1.25l. So when I give it 2 liters, I get about .75liters run off. 👉I will begin prepping the dry area for the harvest and get all the jars and BV packs Ill need. I plan on keeping each cola and its good buds together and giving each its own jar. I dont anticipate harvest for another week or two. It wont be fully cured by Christmas, but its definitely going to help make the season brighter!

👉Day 75 flower, 127 total days from initiating germination. While I am getting ancy, I knew by the 6th week this plant was in slow motion and that it would probably go 2-3 weeks longer than the 65 day flowering time the breeder says is possible. I admit its getting a little tedious and has convinced me that a second tent is needed so I can do more than one plant at a time. There hadn't been many new calixs or white pistols on the top buds, all red pistols, but yesterday I noticed some white hairs on the tips and a couple spots so it may start fox-tailing. The leaves are not fading, just show the residual signs of the nutrient burn and the calcium deficiency. Not one leaf has started to show any yellowing. Super slow motion, quite a change from the 4 auto-flowers I grew before this photo-period. Its all good though, cant rush it, it just has to do its thing and hopefully Im helping it reach its potential. 👉 I didnt get pix till a couple days ago, and that was just the trichomes. Today I gained access to a nice 35mm digital SLR and included a few pix with that camera. Im still learning the cameras settings so I just left the lights on. it has way higher resolution and next week Ill have much better pix with it. 👉The trichome hunt has revealed that many are still clear but the cloudy heads are catching up. Ive not seen any amber and from the way the plant looks I might not see many. When it gets to almost all milky and very few clear, I expect to see a few ambers. My guess is at least another week, if not 2. I hope it doesn't go to Christmas week. Ive got lots going on and a harvest session would be very problematic as far as convenience. THe trichomes are very long, the stalk is elongated and some curl over. Lots of trichomes, super sticky when touched and a nice medium lemony/piney scent. 👉The nutrients have remained the same and the run-off has remained stable. I only needed one low ec fertigation to get the run-off ec back in range (=/+30). Still giving about 2.5ltrs per fertgation 2x a day. Nutrients mixed at the week 11 mix for ripening bud on the General hydroponics Flora series drain to waste schedule chart. Mixed at full strength and fed to plants at 1.3ec average. Ph average is 5.9. I have stopped using the air stone in the nutrient storage container. It was causing the solution to get cloudy and the pH to always be increasing. It may be that there is already a lot of dissolved oxygen in the water and that the air store just ads to the release of co2 which caused the pH to climb. Without the air stone the solution remains clear. I also started correcting the pH just before fertigating instead of when mixing the batch (2.5 gallon dispensing jug). So far the solution is always clear after being on the shelf for 4 days. I will be giving this mix of nutrients all the way to harvest.

👉The daily routine of twice daily fertigation has given me a small insight as to what Phil Conners may have gone thru. There has been promising changes however that re-assure me that the plant is indeed maturing and will finish soon. The top leaves are starting to fade, and a couple of amber trichomes have been spotted! So far the amber color is light, almost yellow, and should darken up a bit by harvest time. At the rate they seem to be getting cloudy/milky I could be harvesting in as little as 3 days, but that is just wishful thinking I'm sure. I'm hoping no more than 10 more days. But I will let the plant decide...as long as there are only a few clears and the rest cloudy then I will harvest. 👉I took one small cola tip bud from an upper level, secondary branch. It weighed 30g with leaves, 10g trimmed and when dried to 20% should be 2g. I did this to be able to inspect the buds with a little more stability when using the USB scope. Those pix are the first 6 on this page. 👉Nutrient mix is the same recipe: week 11 on the General hydroponics flora series drain to waste chart. I reduced the concentration to 1ms from 1.3. The saturation level for the pot is averaging around 1lt per fertigation. I give it 2.5l at lights on, and 2L 1-2hrs before lights off. For some reason this grow session there is a persistent/prolific algea growth on the outside of the pot (cloth pot). I have the same fan setup Ive been using all year. It may be that when I didnt spray the pot off for a couple week the algea got a firm hold on the pot. I use a pressure sprayer with a H2O2 solution (1gallon water with 60ml h202) to spray off the exterior of the pot every couple days. THis keeps it at bay somewhat. After harvest I will cut open the cloth pot to see if the algea extends inside the pot any and if has affected the roots. 👉 While trichome hunting is very kewl if good pictures are taken, its very frustrating to get a decent pic due to any slight shake causes the pic to blur. When doing daily eye loop inspections I dont turn off the grow lights or fans. But when trying to get pix I turn off all the fans and both grow lights. This helps a little when trying to take pix with the USB scope.I have the small scope mounted on a tripod and that eliminate my own movement, but just trying to focus proves to be tedious because any touch causes the image to shake wildly, which results in very slow progress as I search around the plant and try for decent pix. Today I got a tube extension set for my 35mm DSLR. It turned my regular 55mm lens into a macro lens. While its not the same as a regular macro lense, its way cheaper....35$ for the tube set as opposed to 300$ for an actual macro lens. THe high resolution allows me to get sharp images with a deeper feild of focus than the scope. I still need lots of practice and need to work on lighting. I included some cropped and un-cropped macro shots done with the camera. The other macro shots are the USB scope. You can see its still got plenty of clear, lots of cloudy, and an amber here or there. The areas that I have touched have strands of resin that look almost like spider silk. SOOOOOO frosty! Santa is going to really enjoy his milk and cookies when he visits my house.

👉 Harvest day arrived. I chose this day because the overall look of the plant. The majority of the leaves had a nice fade, the majority of the trichomes were cloudy, and majority of the pistols red. The trichomes still had a fair number of clears and only a few amber. I also noticed that some of the tricombes looked like they had ‘popped’ and were missing heads. The stubs that remained had an amber tip. So the overall trichome maturity was a little further along that is obvious. My goal wasn’t a certain number of amber, but a large majority of cloudy. I may have been inclined to wait a few more days because there were still a generous amount of clear. But the previous day I noticed a bright green calix jutting out of the one of the main colas. Upon closer inspection it was an emerging male bud, I cut it out right away and took it outside. It hadn’t opened up so I am confident I wont find any seeds in the buds. I decided that the overall plant was ready and putting it off longer would risk the appearance of seeds. I grew this sativa dominant plant for its uplifting effects so I think it was exactly where I needed it to be. 👉I started harvesting by taking the highest branch, and working my way down the plant one branch at a time. I would then seperate the cola end of the branch then wet trimmed it. I then weighed each branches end cola and documented the weight with the corresponding position on the plant. I took the wet trimmed cola branch and hung it on the dry rack with a clip that has a number on it (matches the number order harvested). I then trimmed the rest of the branches buds off, wet trimmed them, weighed, and recorded the amounts to add up with the other branch inner buds. This plant had 13 branches, 13 colas (obviously) and they way I harvest it shows the higher up on the plant (closest to the light) the bigger. I am doing this to judge differences in buds from different areas of the plant. I like the looks of the biggest and prettiest buds and always pick the best looking buds to consume first. Different areas on the plant were also in slightly different stages of ripeness, so there may be noticeable differences between the tops and the middle...OR I'm just high. 👉This plant was modest, with modest sized buds, unlike 3 of the 4 autos I had grown previously. All the buds were spaced out on the branches and not as large per bud as the others, much like the gorilla glue. While smaller, these buds were dense with small calyxes. Super frosty, again just like the gorilla glue, with a very modest lemon pine scent. Very sticky when touched. 👉When I trimmed it I didn’t do a close trim. I trimmed all the large leaves and trimmed the tips off most of the sugar leaves that remained. Then hung the cola with branch stem on the dry rack. I have a small oscillating fan on the floor with a long piece of cardboard set at an angle to deflect the current upwards towards the buds. I also have a dehumidifier set to 45% RH. I placed each bud in its own paper bag after 1.5 days. Then 1.5days after that I have final trimmed and weighed each one, documented and placed in its own jars. The buds on the net were also sorted from good buds to larf and also weighed and put in a separate jar. I use a trim tray with a screen in it and a catch tray, The frosted sugar leaves were left in the tray after trimming, then crumbled up and run over the screen. I also got a small bit of scissor kief, which is in its own jar as well. I was able to make 3 kief pucks, weighing 3g total, from the trim tray. Final in the jar total was 239g with minimum larf (about 40g). 👉Review for the plant: Was a beautiful plant that seemed to thrive in slow motion. The supplier says it flowers fast, but it went a little past the 65 day estimate given. No biggy though because I anticipated that it would go long, so it was on schedule as far as what I expected. It grew to the size the breeder stated (37”) and was about 4’ across at its widest, and probably 3’ at the narrowest, it was basically oval shaped. I used the soft garden wire to support the branches and buds, and used a little more than one 32’ roll of it. The top two colas were identical in size. And each branch set cola below that were also identical, and size was less with each step down the main trunk. Except the bottom-most two branches. These hade more buds, and even though they were mostly larfy and smaller, the secondary branches off these two branches were super frosty. I trimmed those branches together. The end buds of these branches were nice and plump. I am curious if these mega frosty small buds are any different than the main plant buds are. 👉I still feel like my dry technique could improve. I am limited somewhat in what I can do, but I think the way I am drying is adequate and while it may not be optimum, its also not detrimental. So mostly wet trimmed, hung by branches on rack with controlled humidity and oscillating fan. The wind currents are moderate. The buds in the dry net are turned over occasionally and inspected for any mildew (which there was none). After 1.5 days I placed each bud in its own paper bag and placed back in its clip. The net buds were also put in bags. After 1.5 more days they felt dry and firm and I close trimmed them, weighed them and put them in jars with moisture control packs and hygrometers. I numbered each jar to track each bud or group of buds. Some of the smaller buds were a little too dry, but the larger upper buds are just right and they require the routine of opening the jars to allow the excess humidity to escape. The dried weights of most buds were about 15% of the wet. The wet had the larger stems still attached, so I am guessing with the stems included the dry% would be the typical 20%. Right now the aroma in the jars is mild with lemon hint. The plant had a mild aroma when growing so I am not surprised that the aroma is weak. The small shaded popcorn buds I took a month ago have a medium aroma of light citrus. If like the last 4 plants, while 6 weeks is a nice place to say its cured enough, the buds cured potential may not be reached for a few months. Ive never had this much experience with individual plants and how they all have individual highs, and how the buds change as it ages. Its very fun and very easy to over think things while high on Tangerine Dream. 👉I made some mistakes during the grow, the biggest was allowing the green algae to proliferate on the side of the pot. I had been good about spraying the outside with a solution of H2O2 to keep things at bay due to the constant moisture of frequent fertigation. I started seeing the run-off EC shoot up high very quickly. Finally I realized that there was far more algae on the side of the pot than I thought when I turned my work light to the side of the pot (dark pot, dark green algae, in the shadow). I was doing a low EC fertigation every 3 fertigations, when before I was doing it 1x a week. I did a thorough spray and wipe down of the exterior of the pot and repeated that for a few days until I wasn’t getting any more green runoff when I sprayed the pot with the pressure sprayer. My Ec immediately returned to normal. I also had a nutrient burn as a result of this episode of high EC in the pot. 👉Next mistake was I was adding a little extra Calmag to the mix. I was seeing some purple stems creep in on the upper level fan leaves. So I upped the Calmag thinking my RO water needed more. But what I did was create calcium lock out. My nutrient mixture was clouding up overnight. So I started getting a lot of brown spots that looked like classic calcium deficiency. I did a bunch of reading and came across how too much calcium in the nutrient mix can cause the calcium to fall out of the mix and cant be absorbed by the plant. So I cut back the calmag and the brown spots stopped spreading. By that time the good fade of colors began. The fade was yellowing center of leaves and some started having a bit of purple on them. So when harvested the plants leaves appearance was saying that it was ready. 👉Some of the positives I had with this grow is that I didn’t kill it…lol…and I learned things that will help me going forward in my quest to grow more good big buds. I enjoyed opening the tent having that feeling of happiness and wonderment as I see my magical frosty plant. I have gained confidence in my grow strategy and the results have been far better than I anticipated when I started doing indoor growing one year ago. I have ideas for my next grow that can help make things easier and hopefully almost make some good big buds that could win a blue ribbon at the county fair someday.