By continuing to use the website or clicking Accept you consent to our cookies and personal data policy and confirm that you are at least 18 year old. For details please see Privacy Policy and Terms
Germinated well, placed seed straight into rockwool and under a glass bowl humidity dome. Changed the bowl to a plastic container on day 4 (you can see it in the d6 photos), enabled me to alter the air flow a bit better.
I haven't watered it since day 1 (5 days ago) but the rockwool still has half its weight and i can feel the moisture when I touch it. I watered with pH 5.9 water after soaking the rockwool for a few hours in it on d0.
Day 6 - seems a bit droopy in the first true leaves? Nothing major but got me worried. Any feedback would be appreciated! 😕
It is droopy from too much moisture in the rockwool. Rockwool is bad about sufficating seedlings and retaining too much moisture. You can place the cube on a paper towel or something similar to pull some of the moisture out if it to get some oxygen to the root. You have to be really careful until you get roots appearing from the bottom. Once a root comes out then the chances of suffocating are reduced a lot. Hope this helps
😿 Hardly grown at all since D4 - D10 💩 the consensus on D5 was that I had over watered. I had only watered once on D1, but it just didn't need watereing again after that. So when I was told I had over watered, I actually hadn't watered it in 5 days so it was a bit of a shock!. So on D5 I quickly reduced the moisture and now the rockwool is almost dry. Complete saturation weight was 300g, am now having it sit between 70 - 200g in weight.
😞 It isn't dying, but it just isn't growing more than 2 mm per day in the leaves. The leaves are still limp and drooping all the time as can be seen in the last photo. It isn't stretching in the stem at all.
😕 I find it very strange how at the main growth node all the leaves are totally bunched up there, no growth of any stem visible between the main stem and any of the leaves at all.
💪 I wonder when I should start to feed this plant, I am inclined to hold off on any nutes until it starts to grow properly.
Day 12 - planted the rockwool in coco-perlite mix and watered with calmag and weak nutes with runoff ppm only reaching 170 and pH 6.2
Since replanting last week and putting into coco she seems much happier! I found out that the ppm of the water I had been using was over 500, but it was all from the pH down I had added so I think that was bad. I diluted the water out and added my nutes to a final ppm of 375 into the coco with pH of 6.1, the runoff was about pH6.2 and only 170 ppm. The coco was buffered initially but I think I rinsed much of it out when preparing the mix.
The new growth at the main node seems lighter green than the rest of the plant, I wonder if this means she is hungry? I am leaving her for now though, don't want to over fertilize.
On day 15,16 the bottom leaves starting to curl in at the base and serrations sticking up. Next on day 16/17 brown spots appearing on bottom leaves and tips starting to go yellow.
Day 20 she is finally starting to look happy, leaves not drooping, less pale. I moved the light up higher and added in a fan so maybe she was slightly heat stressed.
She is picking up now, but still far behind where I would have liked her. Anyone answer any of these questions?
- Her fan leaf section numbers seem to go 1, 3, 3, 3 as far as I can see, why would this be is she a mutant?
- Do you think she is permanently stunted? She just seems far behind a lot of plants at day 25 on this site.
I really feel like I am learning SO MUCH with this grow, heaps of things I could improve on next time. 😺
Day 28 - I fed her a 420ppm nutrient solution, and as I was watering her a fair bit got on her leaves. I shook it off her but a few drops on her lower fan leaves were stuck. So I grabbed the droplets with my finger and smeared them into the leaf. Big mistake, next day the leaves were all burnt! 😡😲 The upper fan leaves that I didn't touch were fine, the leaf tips were fine also.
Day 30 - Plant really looking happy now, growing nicely and stretching up towards the light. The 4th set of fan leaves still 3 pronged (has grown cotyledons, then true leaves with 1, 3, 3 and 3 prongs). The 5th set of fan leaves is now visible as a bud in the center, and I can see that this set has 5 prongs. So was likely the stress that made the first sets of leaves 3 pronged.
Day 30 - I really want the plant to be BUSHY to take advantage of this small light and surround it, so I decided to try FIMMING today! The middle bud was at the perfect age for this so took the opportunity, I hope she can handle it. Happy to sacrifice a bit of yield to get more buds closer to the light for a more consistent quality. If you think that yield is more important and I shouldn't do this, here is a fact for you, over the last 5 years I have gone through about 30g of bud with me and one friend, we have some about once a month or two. So yeah I don't care about yield just quality 👌.
Day 34 - Female preflower showing! Shit this means she will be into bloom soon, and still so far behind where I wanted her. Researched on the interwebs and found that I could still have a good 2 weeks of fast vegetative growth at this point. I realised my last feed was only 1/3 strength fertilizer. Time to feed her a decent meal, GO STRONG OR GO HOME!
I fed her 5L of pH 5.9, ppm = 775 - with 20ml of Canna Rapid combined A&B
She has finally taken off into proper veg mode, I wonder if she was just waiting for a good feed? Regardless, making up for lost time and I am much more confident in her now.
She still hasn't started to flower, even though her preflowers are showing for a good week, I hope she kicks over soon! I will start transitioning to flowering NPK ratio next feed.
She is starting to show the early signs of buds beginning to form, so veg is coming to an end. Has been growing well, the nutrients are now at 1.6 EC and she is coping well with it. Finally starting to drink a decent amount too.
Unsure what time she will finish, I am going away in 8 weeks and really hoping she can finish flowering before then!
Oh boy, she has really stretched out in her early flowering phase. She has been growing very fast! After her first feed this week, her runoff was 1100ppm (2.2EC) and she is lapping it up! No signs of toxicity, very healthy.
I have been defoliating all the young leaves that would have grown up to cover any of the surrounding bud sites. However, I have left all the leaves that stick out to the side of the plant. It is getting very crowded in the grow box now, touching all 4 walls!
I want to try to speed up her flower so next feed will be with bloom nutes, so lower nitrogen.
Can anyone tell me how many weeks left I might have until harvest? I am planning a holiday and need a rough date to work with! I am happy to harvest a little on the early side when trichomes are all cloudy. If a few people could put their best guess I can average them, thanks! 🙏
She is still stretching up, seeming very happy. Drinking faster and faster so finally the right size for her pot now. I am removing fan leaves at the top that block access of light to the bud sites.
I am really trying to speed her up to get her to flower as fast as possible but I don't know how. The guy at the hydro shop said some mild stress will speed her up but I cannot find it anywhere online. He said try raising the daytime temp to 30 degrees in early to mid flower (not late) to really get her going. Anyone heard of this?
Her pistils are getting way long now, but still no trichomes that I can see. I am resigned to her not finishing until about another 6 weeks from now but I have my fingers crossed hoping she can prove me wrong and speed up.
She has soooo many bud sites on her now, and they all look super hairy with massive pistils. I removed a few of the very small and delayed ones that were way down the bottom of the plan. Also removed a few of the leaves from the bottom of the plant that don't get light, and which were going a bit pale. A few (5-10) of the oldest fan leaves have 1-5 small rust-coloured spots on them but most leaves look very healthy so not too worried - pruned a few of the most severely affected..
I have started using the VPD chart for flowering, and have kept her mostly within the optimum levels. Hoping this helps her to grow well.
We now have trichomes! Nice to see them come along to the party. I have been keeping the VPD within the optimum levels and she doesn't seem to look stressed any more so very happy about that. She would sometimes have wilted leaves etc. around the morning and evenings, and now I realise that the humidity was too high.
The heater broke this week, and somehow I managed to fix it by opening it up and testing the cutoff switches - found out the mechanical thermostat wasn't working. Then I cleaned the contacts inside and it magically started working again so very lucky to find the fix!
She is really starting to smell now. Particularly on the really hot and dry days which I try to avoid as much as I can with her. Some pistils turning brown. Trichomes are already 75% cloudy, 25% clear, no amber. Will start posting trichome pics next week.
I finally have a plan for when I go away in 3.5 weeks. I am thinking I will probably have to harvest just before I leave. So I purchased a humidity-controlled power-plug outlet the Inkbird IHC-200. I am going to set up my grow tent with just the extraction fan running on low. Then inside the tent I will set up a cardboard box with a fan hole in it and a few holes to let air out. I will attach a fan to the hole, with the humidity sensor inside. The fan will be running, blowing air through the box and removing the moisture from the air. The humidity sensor will notice when the humidity gets too low, when it will stop the power to the fan. I would guess it would be blowing most of the time for the first few days but this will prevent it from drying out too fast. When I get back, hopefully it will be ready to jar. Any ideas of what humidity RH% I should set as the shut off? I was thinking 65% to start with. Please put any feedback on this plan you might have, in the comments below.
I am thinking to start the flush in a few days. I want to chop on the earlier half of the harvest window, but not so early it is wasteful. If I flush for a good 7-14 days could I start soon?
I still hardly see any amber trichomes at all, less than 1% most leaves have none. I am also seeing some new growth of white hairs still appearing in the buds, although over 50% of pistils are now brown.
How long until I can start to flush? I want to time it for the early to mid harvest window. I am in CoCo so will probably flush for 7-14 days?
I think a lot of the trichomes are now cloudy, a good 75% I think. Very rare ambers, less than 1%, most buds with none.
Give them one more week with plain water only to let them breakdown some last nutrients. Then give them a good flush to rinse everything out of the pot and let them fade till harvest.
Getting close now, I can feel it!
The trichomes are occasionally amber now (still less than 1% on most buds though).
Have lowered the nutrients right down, the ppm of the runoff after the last feed was only 600 (1.2EC)
I will start the flush at the start of next week.
I am maintaining optimum VPD with my new inkbird humidity monitor. http://happypotfarmer.com/inkbird-humidity-controller-review-and-usage-instructions
I have a heater linked to the monitor that switches on when the humidity is too high during lights-on. I set the humidity percent based on the forecast dew point outside for that day (as it draws air in directly from outside).
Using this, the heater maintains the VPD to the optimum level where it can (without the use of a humidifier).
Below I pasted the relative humidity (RH) values I set it to based on the dew point outside. I also tried setting the temperature too, which also works if you are using a heater. I found that most days most of the time it was in the optimum.
Had to change the setting when the weather changed quickly outside though. Luckily, the dew point here is usually between 5 and 12 so it didn't get too humid in there.
Dew(C)--RH(%)--Temp(C)
1----------32---19.9
2----------33.7---20.1
3----------35.4---20.3
4----------37.1---21.0
5----------38.8---21.3
6----------40.5---22.0
7----------42.2---22.3
8----------43.9---23.0
9----------45.6---23.0
10---------47.3---23.7
11---------49---24.2
12---------50.7---24.7
13---------52.4---25.2
14---------54.1---25.8
15---------55.8---26.6
Had a very slow start with this one that probably set back my entire grow. I think I had the humidity too high for the first few weeks. She recovered well though in the end.
I found that the buds weren't as dense as I would have liked and this is could be due to my phenotype being more of a Sativa than Indica. Also I probably wasn't aggressive enough with my defoliating either. I also never smelled any cream or cookies. Currently mid-way through the cure there is a strong pine smell with woody undertones. I have smoked piney bud before and it has been very good so I don't think this is bad, however its not really what I expected from this strain.
My initial smoke report before curing is that it has a pleasant taste and isn't harsh. Shortly after smoking I felt very happy and was grinning away. Then I enjoyed watching some videos and felt generally quite relaxed. This is probably the most chill smoke I have ever had, however I don't have a huge experience with different strains. Would be really good for de-stressing in the evening.
The day after harvest I went away on holidays for 10 days, so I was a bit worried about the drying process. I put the bud in a cardboard box as you can see in the photos, with an inkbird humidity monitor attached to a fan. When the fan was off there was no ventilation through the box. When the humidity got over 70% it would put a gentle breeze through the box until it got down to 65% and then shut off until it went back up above 70 again... When I returned home the humidity in the box was 59% so it didn't get too dry!
The buds have lots of trichomes on them but they are a bit more airy and leafy than I would have liked, I think perhaps there were too many small bud sites the plant was putting its energy into. Needed to prune more aggressively to just have a few main bud sites.
The little girl is still not growing on D7 or D8. The rockwool has mostly dried out now, perhaps 30% of the water left, hardly weighs anything and still not changing. Weird curly leaf at the start of the next set of leaves, and no stalk growth at all between the first and second sets. Both leaves wilting still. The stem is purple, I think normal for this strain. Really don't know what I am doing wrong and very upset that it just isn't growing. Really I just put it in rockwool with pH 5.8 water, watered once and then left until now and this is what happened. Was feeling moist the whole time. Humidity kept around 70%, temps between 16C and 26C. 😩 😭 I guess I am just not a good grower I really can't explain this!
@@KUSHMANZAM, thanks man. I found out the possible problem with her, I was using pH down that wasnt for plants it was for the pool. I think it had sodium in it so I was giving her too much salt!
@stealthassassin, in my experience with Autos ph from 6 to 7 is more effective regular photoperiods are what require 5 to 6 ph however I found this to be detrimental to autos they work best from 6.5 to 6.7 on point and I have seen some explosive and extremely potent nugs however some folks don't PH at all so maybe I'm wrong.. check out mrcanucks grow on youtube his grows prove quite excellent and I've followed his advice with great success happy growing mate
https://youtu.be/ATFgwsh9Pb8
@Growietje, yes it is tough for you this time of year! We are almost in spring in Victoria, Australia, so perfect time to plant outdoors in a few weeks time :)
Good to see a healthy plant my friend. If you have 8 weeks from now, there is no problem.
Just don't overfeed tooo mutch and I think you will have some good nuggets. Enjoy!
oh wow, i did not know that you can link the heater with the inkbird too,,, but as longer as iam thinking about the more logical it is,,,,,,,, dehumifidiers heat the air up too and if temps rise, th falls. how didi you limit the temps
@Mrs_Larimar, because my climate here is dry, the dew point is fairly low. For example, if the dew point is 10 degrees C, then I would set the humidity to 47% and then the heater would always run until it was 23 degrees C then shut off. This is because as it heats up to 24 degrees, the humidity would drop under 47% and then the inkbird would turn off the heater. If it was a very hot and dry day then the heater would just be always off, because I don't have a humidifier yet. Hope that makes sense!
She looks really nice. I would keep feeding for the next week then see where you stand. You shouldn't need more than a week to flush coco. Looks like you still have plenty of time left especially if the buds are still showing strong new calyx/pistil growth. She's definately getting close.
@Philindicus, thanks again Phil! Great to have growers like you around to help others out. You are telling me what looks and feels right. Glad she is getting close. I will feed her for the coming week and see how much she changes. 😎
I would agree with LaBossanova, you look like you have mostly white pistils still at least 3-4 weeks to go. Then you still would need time for drying. I would look for a trusted friend to give her a bit of water while your away. If your only going away for 2-3-4 days before you go I would start defoliating her a bit to cut down on her transpiration rate and just plan on doing a large watering(2+ gallons) on her the morning/evening literally just before you leave and back off your lights and cut down on the hours of light to 12 hrs. Then cover the top of your pot with plastic wrap to slow down evaporation from the soil. She will probably be fine but the pots may/will be dry when you get back. A bit of drought stress in the end is alright. At this current time the only thing I would recommend is running your light longer. At 18-20-24 hours could force them to start to ripen a bit faster. It could shave a few days off your grow. Keep an eye on your plants to make sure they don't get light burn when running them for longer hours. Typically when about 50% of the white pistils have dried and turned orange I start checking the trichomes. At that point you typically have a few weeks to go it's basically just waiting for the trichomes to show some amber. It's usually safe to harvest once you see mostly cloudy/milky with 5% ambers. The high may be a bit of a racy head high harvesting at this point. I have a similar situation coming up this spring/early summer where I'll be out of town. I will take the chance of doing one more grow in February.
@Philindicus, thanks Phil, it sounds like good advice and I will follow it. Certainly reducing the hours of light would reduce water usage and transpiration. I just hope we don't end up having a heat wave. I wonder what would happen if she died from lack of water.
Aslong as the humidity levels in your grow box or wherever aren't too crazy high I wouldnt bother with the fan during the drying process. The fan may dry it out too fast and ull come back to dust. Everybody has there own way of doing it though, personally I find the longer they hang/longer in a jar that they're burped the better tasting result you will achieve. Looks good though I would ride this to the bitter end, chopping down even a week early this far into flower will hurt you yield probably pretty substantially.
@Northnut, thanks man, yeah I could just dry in the grow box but the problem is the smell. If you think the smell shouldn't leak out of the tent too much with the extraction off, then your suggestion would be much better. I just worried that if I attach the extraction fan to the humidity sensor then when it stops extracting the air because the humidity drops, the smell will start to seep out. Thats why I planned on having the fan attached to the humidity sensor. That way if the humidity drops the fan stops - leaving extraction fan on constantly.
@Growietje, thanks mate! 🙌 I am happy with how she is going. With the pruning, I have pulled off a lot of leaves already, including all the leaves that are directly blocking light to the bud sites. However, I am worried about going overboard like some people on here do! I did some research, and I think she needs more leaves than for other grows because I don't have a very strong light source, with only 130 watts. So I need the plant to get all the energy she can from the light, which means she needs as many leaves as possible. The leaves are like solar panels, and with less light its better to have a few more leaves. Where I can, I have been just tucking the big leaves out of the way.
it's all about the environment so that means that you need to make sure your leaf surface temperature is on point for your humidity / temperature combination. This explains it better : https://getpulse.co/blog/vpd Hope this helps ! 🚀
@stealthassassin, yeah man understanding VPD is the difference between having a good grow because you're lucky and having a good grow because you understand what you're doing 👊 Looks like I was right about the genetics finishing a bit late, but it could be even later ! i would start planning for a helper growmie ! Anyway what you don't get in speed hopefully you'll find it in yield. Good luck growmie ! 🚀
@CRiSPrGrow, thanks mate, can't believe I never got told about this before. Looking back at my grow diary, when I was having all my problems, I often had a VPD of 0.1 which can't be good... Should be able to improve on that next grow!
stealthassassin
Cream Cookies novice grower
