Her pistils are getting way long now, but still no trichomes that I can see. I am resigned to her not finishing until about another 6 weeks from now but I have my fingers crossed hoping she can prove me wrong and speed up.
She has soooo many bud sites on her now, and they all look super hairy with massive pistils. I removed a few of the very small and delayed ones that were way down the bottom of the plan. Also removed a few of the leaves from the bottom of the plant that don't get light, and which were going a bit pale. A few (5-10) of the oldest fan leaves have 1-5 small rust-coloured spots on them but most leaves look very healthy so not too worried - pruned a few of the most severely affected..
I have started using the VPD chart for flowering, and have kept her mostly within the optimum levels. Hoping this helps her to grow well.
It is droopy from too much moisture in the rockwool. Rockwool is bad about sufficating seedlings and retaining too much moisture. You can place the cube on a paper towel or something similar to pull some of the moisture out if it to get some oxygen to the root. You have to be really careful until you get roots appearing from the bottom. Once a root comes out then the chances of suffocating are reduced a lot. Hope this helps
Can anyone tell me how many weeks left I might have until harvest? I am planning a holiday and need a rough date to work with! I am happy to harvest a little on the early side when trichomes are all cloudy. If a few people could put their best guess I can average them, thanks! 🙏
How long until I can start to flush? I want to time it for the early to mid harvest window. I am in CoCo so will probably flush for 7-14 days?
I think a lot of the trichomes are now cloudy, a good 75% I think. Very rare ambers, less than 1%, most buds with none.
Give them one more week with plain water only to let them breakdown some last nutrients. Then give them a good flush to rinse everything out of the pot and let them fade till harvest.
The little girl is still not growing on D7 or D8. The rockwool has mostly dried out now, perhaps 30% of the water left, hardly weighs anything and still not changing. Weird curly leaf at the start of the next set of leaves, and no stalk growth at all between the first and second sets. Both leaves wilting still. The stem is purple, I think normal for this strain. Really don't know what I am doing wrong and very upset that it just isn't growing. Really I just put it in rockwool with pH 5.8 water, watered once and then left until now and this is what happened. Was feeling moist the whole time. Humidity kept around 70%, temps between 16C and 26C. 😩 😭 I guess I am just not a good grower I really can't explain this!
@@KUSHMANZAM, thanks man. I found out the possible problem with her, I was using pH down that wasnt for plants it was for the pool. I think it had sodium in it so I was giving her too much salt!
@stealthassassin, in my experience with Autos ph from 6 to 7 is more effective regular photoperiods are what require 5 to 6 ph however I found this to be detrimental to autos they work best from 6.5 to 6.7 on point and I have seen some explosive and extremely potent nugs however some folks don't PH at all so maybe I'm wrong.. check out mrcanucks grow on youtube his grows prove quite excellent and I've followed his advice with great success happy growing mate
https://youtu.be/ATFgwsh9Pb8
@Growietje, yes it is tough for you this time of year! We are almost in spring in Victoria, Australia, so perfect time to plant outdoors in a few weeks time :)
Good to see a healthy plant my friend. If you have 8 weeks from now, there is no problem.
Just don't overfeed tooo mutch and I think you will have some good nuggets. Enjoy!
oh wow, i did not know that you can link the heater with the inkbird too,,, but as longer as iam thinking about the more logical it is,,,,,,,, dehumifidiers heat the air up too and if temps rise, th falls. how didi you limit the temps
nice cloesup pictures!!
@Mrs_Larimar, because my climate here is dry, the dew point is fairly low. For example, if the dew point is 10 degrees C, then I would set the humidity to 47% and then the heater would always run until it was 23 degrees C then shut off. This is because as it heats up to 24 degrees, the humidity would drop under 47% and then the inkbird would turn off the heater. If it was a very hot and dry day then the heater would just be always off, because I don't have a humidifier yet. Hope that makes sense!
She looks really nice. I would keep feeding for the next week then see where you stand. You shouldn't need more than a week to flush coco. Looks like you still have plenty of time left especially if the buds are still showing strong new calyx/pistil growth. She's definately getting close.
@Philindicus, thanks again Phil! Great to have growers like you around to help others out. You are telling me what looks and feels right. Glad she is getting close. I will feed her for the coming week and see how much she changes. 😎
I would agree with LaBossanova, you look like you have mostly white pistils still at least 3-4 weeks to go. Then you still would need time for drying. I would look for a trusted friend to give her a bit of water while your away. If your only going away for 2-3-4 days before you go I would start defoliating her a bit to cut down on her transpiration rate and just plan on doing a large watering(2+ gallons) on her the morning/evening literally just before you leave and back off your lights and cut down on the hours of light to 12 hrs. Then cover the top of your pot with plastic wrap to slow down evaporation from the soil. She will probably be fine but the pots may/will be dry when you get back. A bit of drought stress in the end is alright. At this current time the only thing I would recommend is running your light longer. At 18-20-24 hours could force them to start to ripen a bit faster. It could shave a few days off your grow. Keep an eye on your plants to make sure they don't get light burn when running them for longer hours. Typically when about 50% of the white pistils have dried and turned orange I start checking the trichomes. At that point you typically have a few weeks to go it's basically just waiting for the trichomes to show some amber. It's usually safe to harvest once you see mostly cloudy/milky with 5% ambers. The high may be a bit of a racy head high harvesting at this point. I have a similar situation coming up this spring/early summer where I'll be out of town. I will take the chance of doing one more grow in February.
@Philindicus, thanks Phil, it sounds like good advice and I will follow it. Certainly reducing the hours of light would reduce water usage and transpiration. I just hope we don't end up having a heat wave. I wonder what would happen if she died from lack of water.
Aslong as the humidity levels in your grow box or wherever aren't too crazy high I wouldnt bother with the fan during the drying process. The fan may dry it out too fast and ull come back to dust. Everybody has there own way of doing it though, personally I find the longer they hang/longer in a jar that they're burped the better tasting result you will achieve. Looks good though I would ride this to the bitter end, chopping down even a week early this far into flower will hurt you yield probably pretty substantially.
@Northnut, thanks man, yeah I could just dry in the grow box but the problem is the smell. If you think the smell shouldn't leak out of the tent too much with the extraction off, then your suggestion would be much better. I just worried that if I attach the extraction fan to the humidity sensor then when it stops extracting the air because the humidity drops, the smell will start to seep out. Thats why I planned on having the fan attached to the humidity sensor. That way if the humidity drops the fan stops - leaving extraction fan on constantly.
@Growietje, thanks mate! 🙌 I am happy with how she is going. With the pruning, I have pulled off a lot of leaves already, including all the leaves that are directly blocking light to the bud sites. However, I am worried about going overboard like some people on here do! I did some research, and I think she needs more leaves than for other grows because I don't have a very strong light source, with only 130 watts. So I need the plant to get all the energy she can from the light, which means she needs as many leaves as possible. The leaves are like solar panels, and with less light its better to have a few more leaves. Where I can, I have been just tucking the big leaves out of the way.
it's all about the environment so that means that you need to make sure your leaf surface temperature is on point for your humidity / temperature combination. This explains it better : https://getpulse.co/blog/vpd Hope this helps ! 🚀
@stealthassassin, yeah man understanding VPD is the difference between having a good grow because you're lucky and having a good grow because you understand what you're doing 👊 Looks like I was right about the genetics finishing a bit late, but it could be even later ! i would start planning for a helper growmie ! Anyway what you don't get in speed hopefully you'll find it in yield. Good luck growmie ! 🚀
@CRiSPrGrow, thanks mate, can't believe I never got told about this before. Looking back at my grow diary, when I was having all my problems, I often had a VPD of 0.1 which can't be good... Should be able to improve on that next grow!