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First Grow- White Widow ScrOG SF1000LEDs

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10037
5 years ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 7
Vegetation
20.32
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
Troy_McClure Troy_McClure
5 years ago
(dec. 15* technically the night before this week) feeding - nutes: - big bloom - 10ml / gal (3.8L) - grow big - 10ml / gal (3.8L) - watering: - 1 gal (3.8L) each - 2gal (7.6L) tap water ph: before adding nutes - ph: 8.17 - 2gal (7.6L) water with pump and 20ml big bloom - ph: 8.24 - 2gal (7.6L) water with 20ml big bloom and 20ml grow big - ph: 6.9 - add 3ml of white vinegar - ph: 6.81 - Add 3ml of white vinegar - ph: 6.55 - Add 3ml of white vinegar - ph: 6.37 - with 12ml of white vinegar total + 20ml big bloom + 20 ml Grow big - ph: 6.17 - after 2L given to plants: - ph: 6.24 - 1L of note water ph’d at 6.17 given to both plants - 5 min break - ph:6.24 - another 1L - 5 min - ph: 6.3 - another 1L - 5 min - ph: 6.35 - another 1L - 5 min - ph: 6.35 - another 1L - 5 min - ph: 6.35 - both plants given 1 gal each of ph: 6.17 water with 10 ml of big bloom and 10ml of grow big - Plants look like they need it and will respond very well, plant 2 looks like I will do lots of defoliation on it and I think I will look to stop touching them after one more round of defoliation in a couple days when they perk up from the feed, I will then leave them for 2 full weeks of veg and finish at week 9 so that week 10 is the first week of flower at 12/12 - I plan on feeding 1-2 times a week with the second feed going until run-off - I will have them grow up and then place the Scrog net over them at the start of week 8 so they will have a good few weeks to grow into it - My ankle and foot is in a cast so I can’t move around well so delaying the screen is no problem for me Dec. 16 - plant 1: - Ph: 6.3 - Plant 2: - Ph: 6.2 - defoliated 4 fan leaves that had died from plant 2 - defoliated just a few baby fan leaves scrapping the soil on plant 1 - Plants look nice and healthy from the feeding, they love getting those nutes - Both plants now have Redding/ purple-ing stems and plant 2 has some leave halfway up that are browning in between the veins of the leafs towards the tips of the leaf - Much worse in plant 2, Redding stems in plant 1 have not resulted in such leaf Browning or dying - plant 1 has the redding/ purplish stems around the new growth tips, but only a bit of the boron deficiency browning - I will re-LST plant 1 and 2 today dec. 17 - the boron, nitrogen, and phosphorus deficiencies seem to be slowly correcting but it is something to keep an eye on - i think a lot of those deficiencies were caused by the soil ph getting off, but also because i wanted to purposely err on the side of under watering and under-feeding - now i understand more and feel comfortable as I have set the floor for expectations of the ocean forest soil - it lasted a good 3-4 weeks (cut with 33% pro-mix) on the nutes in soil, and clearly week 4-5 it should have received its first feed - week 6-7 was mostly due to the delay of symptoms and the slowly correcting deficit dec. 17 - the boron, nitrogen, and phosphorus deficiencies seem to be slowly correcting but it is something to keep an eye on - i think a lot of those deficiencies were caused by the soil ph getting off, but also because i wanted to purposely err on the side of under watering and under-feeding - now i understand more and feel comfortable as I have set the floor for expectations of the ocean forest soil - it lasted a good 3-4 weeks (cut with 33% pro-mix) on the nutes in soil, and clearly week 4-5 it should have received its first feed - week 6-7 was mostly due to the delay of symptoms and the slowly correcting deficit - Plant 2: - Ph: 6.8 - 9h later - 7.3 - Plant 1: - Ph:7 - 9 hours later - 7.3 - re applied LST to both plants - Plant 2 stems look a little lighter, getting a bit lighter on new growth Dec. 18 - plant 2 - Ph: 7 - Plant 1 - Ph: 7.2 Dec. 18 - plant 2 - Ph: 7 - Plant 1 - Ph: 7.2 - plants look really good, humidity with the mini fans running during the dark hours helps a lot, AC fans on 10 - rh: 50-65% - temp: 65-74 - plants will just have to hold on and deal with the phosphorus deficiency until the weekend when they will be fed again - looks like the plant is recovering well, right now red/ purple stems are all that is an issue, and its even reverting back to green - plant still has some of the discolouration on leaves, some red/ purple stems, and light green new growth, - I will have to see about feeding and watering schedules Dec.19 - plant 1: - ph: 7.9 (3 moist) - plant2 - ph: 7.2 (5 moist) Dec.19 - plant 1: - ph: 7.9 (3 moist) - plant2 - ph: 7.2 (5- moist) Dec. 20 - plant 1 - ph: 8 - moisture: (4 dry) - plant 2 - ph: 7.9 - moisture: (3 dry- moist) - both plants will be watered today - both plants will have LST removed for watering - I think I will give another half dose of Big Bloom and Grow Big because the plants need it, but I will only give 1 gal each - the next watering will be without nutrients, just ph’d down to low 6’s - I want to start watering more often - Dehumidifier will be set up inside or outside the tent to keep humidity post-watering under control 45-55 rh% ideally - Plant 1 looks very thirsty, stems are thin and weak, old leave that have been dying are flaking to the touch, growth has a nice green colour though, just very thirsty and hungry - Some reddish purple stems, not sure if they are from the scraping of the plant ties, it kind of feels like they are based on where they are and the scratching type of discolouration but some are just clearly red / purple without scratches. Likely both occurring - Plant 1 also has more blotchy leaves that have progressively gotten worse, likely the deficiency from lack of nutes/ ph continually rising - Plant 2 still has the same issues but it’s older dead leave we’re already pruned - Plant 2 is not as under watered yet so less droopy leaves and less weak growth / stems - I pruned any tiny fan leaves on the bottom of the plant 1, several were dead, some flaking to touch, others dragging on the soil. Maybe 4 large ones and 4 small to tiny ones. - I obviously should have watered yesterday for plant 1, but its tough with a cast on my ankle, so I waited so I could do both today and now learned the signs of underwatering and feeding - 3.5gal (13L) of tap water - ph: 8.31 - add in 20ml of big bloom and 20 ml of grow big - ph: 7.15 - Add 3ml of apple cider vinegar - Ph: 7.01 - Add 6ml more - Ph: 6.81 - Add 3ml more - Ph: 6.74 - Add 3ml more - Ph: 6.6 - 3ml - Ph: 6.5 - 3ml - Ph: 6.35 13L total - wait (6.31) 11 9 7 6 4 2 2.5L more so that both plants have a decent run off (3 feeds with water in a row) - next watering will only have apple cider vinegar as ph down Runoff 3L Plant 1: ph5.4 Plant 2: ph4.8 Plant 1: Soil meter ph: 6.7 Plant 2: Ph: 6 - LST back on plant 2 but not plant 1 - Plant height is still 15 total inches, the soil is 6.5” height, and the plants height is right (8”) where I want the screen - I think I should probably let the plant grow a little, the place the screen over top - Plant 2 will need to be defoliated as it has trouble spreading - My LST is super rookie so it’s just bend it all away without proper technique or style, more or less - I have a decent feel for the LST right now but the screen will be new and much more awkward because of the space obstacles and my ankle problem - I want to get all remaining pruning done on plant 1, if any, this week and then allow it 1-2 more weeks to fully veg and cover much more room if possible - I hope to flip the lights at the end of week 9, and possibly end of week 8 if it is convenient Dec. 21 - plants look good, but lighter green on new growth, some old stem Redding and some old fan leave discolouration - Plant 1 is more light green inside and has higher ph soil that rises quickly - Some of the stems and leaves were very weak - I split the main stalk right at the main top by accident when I was re applying LST on plant 2, mini tie bandage solved it and it was easy - Both plants will have lots of healthy bud sites with their own space and I think the 4 SF 1000 will be plenttttty of light to cover all the edges - plant 1 had some light defoliation of older fan leaves, and very small leaves that had died near the main stem Plant 1 Ph: 7.2 Plant 2 Ph: 7 Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for veg - 4x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for flower Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Mini fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Timers: - 2x VIVOSUN dual Digital Timer
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Grow Questions
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
My grow tent drops down to 65 (75-80 with the fan on low settings during 16 hour light cycles) during the off 8 hours of the light cycle, I would like to establish a more consistent temperature, or at least ideally keep the grow tent closer to 70 while the lights are off. How?
Solved
Techniques. Defoliation
like
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
hi, iam using small Infrared heater with thermostate to keep the Temps around 70 degree. Those little ones are doing great. Ive choosen one with only 300 watts to save my electricity bill. And it wents on if temperatures are dropping. ........But you can start with extern conditions.. do you have aplace that is wamer=? can you " isolate" the Tent=?for outside with styropor// cardboard//And last solution is giving her external heat from a heater...
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
What should I do about the old leaves? likely ph imbalance and/or nute deficiency (Phosphorus -redding older stems + browning of dry leaves) and Nitrogen- slow light green new growth) - the issues seem to be resolved, but the leaves are flaking almost. mostly referring to plant 2
Solved
Leaves. Dropping off
like
Mr_Weeds_Autos
Mr_Weeds_Autosanswered grow question 5 years ago
I would remove them, remember whatever damage that has been done due to a deficiency will stay that way ... Plus having dead leaves around can leave room to invite unwanted insects to your environment because they love to feed on the dying leaves.
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
soil ph is erratic fox farm ocean forest : pro-mix (3:1) - ph 6.3-6.8 run-off ph: plant 2: 4-6 plant 1: 5-6.8 watering / feed ph: 6.3-6.45 soil ph after water /feed: 5-7 soil ph when dry: 7.5-8 both plants treated 100% the same phosphorus deficiency / ph imbalance help please
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Plant. Stem - Red or purple
1 like
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowsanswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello there. PH mal-adjustment with, what looks like, a P/Cal deficiency. I also used Ocean Forest in my first grow because the pre-nutrient amended soil was attractive to me, but it kind of hurt more then it helped. Same as you, I ran into almost constant pH problems when using OC and it frustrated me endlessly (ended up using a neutral soil for the last 2 gallons for last pot up). Good news, I wouldn't panic over this too much. Changes need to made, probably some trial and error, but they will come back. Red/purple stems can be a symptom of P deficiency but I see your night temps are around 19 degrees Celsius and could this can also change the colors of your stems, laterals and leaf veins. Copper spotting does not look like splash back to me at all. I feel you're looking at a phosphorous and calcium deficiency. The uptake of these nutrients is optimal at 6.2 and with the current swings in your pH (and also work in conjunction with one another), I don't think the plant is taking much of it up. You can give it as much as you'd like, but she just may not be having it. Suggested solution: (Same thing I did to mitigate and remedy the same symptoms) Next feed (or two) I would simply "flush through" a good amount of pH balanced water @ 6.2-6.4. I would not recommend over-compensating and feeding anything about 6.6 as this may fix one problem while creating another (possible lockout of other essential nutrients). In these "flush throughs" I add my phosphorus blooming supplement with cal/mag (Usually 3/4 dose. Trust your gut, though). This way, you can properly flush out excess salts/nutrients/developing pathogens while not starving her of the P and Cal she desperately wants right now. After a couple consecutive flush throughs, you should notice the pH start to balance itself out. When you return to normal feeding (if pH is back in order) I would also suggest watching how much Nitrogen supplementation you give the ladies. Micro nutrients that work along side Nitrogen, like zinc, copper and iron, can interrupt the uptake of P and Cal/Sulfur and keep the soil mal-adjusted (uptake of these nutrients is around 5.5-5.7). OC medium is hard to gauge when it comes to Nitrogen. It's highly amended with these macro/micro nutrients and can certainly cause trouble. There are no hard answers to this question, but rather a roadmap to possible remedies over time. Your girls will be just fine. Just need a little tweaking!👍 I hope this helped my friend. If this is the answer you're looking for there is no need to "pick" it. Remove the question and keep it for another day😉 (Weird how there's a time frame limitation to questions...I don't understand why). Cheers and good luck, no matter what course of action you take!!✊
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClurestarted grow question 5 years ago
Harvest on Mar.7, any tips or tricks welcome. I plan on watering just 1.5 gal each on Mar. 4, turn off the lights for 36H Mar. 5 @7:00am-Mar.7 @6:45pm (15 min before lights on normally) I hope that the soil is dry for harvest. cut down small stems, hang, remove dead leaves, dry
Solved
Buds. Other
Techniques. Other
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Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimaranswered grow question 5 years ago
Hello, If you want to go with drytrimming you need a very good well areated place with a good tempeature and RH to let them dry ( for example on a clothes rack in your living room). If you dont have such a good place or dont want to use your living room😃. Then its better to cut in branches and get them a good wet trim, and hang them . In 95 percent i go with wet trimming. Its some work , but absolutely worth. And you can use the suagrleaves to do some butter, oil, shatter anything you like. I even keep fanleaves to make smoothies ( just pick them and freeze them to store) the ugliest leaves it put to my compost.. or into my wormfarm.. so i dont throw away anything. The stalk and branches get sheddered and go to compost too
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smokinghut
smokinghutweek 7
Troy, as a rule of thumb, plants prefer constant nutrient availability over boosts. Excess nutes stress plants out and nute deficiency does, too. Also, nutrient accumulation in soil / mix is more often than not toxic to roots. Phosphorus, Potassium and Nitrogen behave in totally different ways. NITROGEN N is highly volatile, hydrophilic and soluble in water. It will evaporate very rapidly if wet and exposed to air. It moves quickly throughout the medium. Plants absorb it quickly. It is easy to accidentally flush away. Think of it as sugar. It makes plants grow, basically. Avoid slow release N capsules when approaching the flowering stage, but, in moderation, they can be relatively safe during initial growth. POTASSIUM Comes in salt form (really toxic, never let it accumulate, concentrate). Soluble in water. Very ill advised to boost K. Used in flowering stage. IMPORTANT RATIOS Nutrient absorption depends on Ca:Mg ratio, pH and the CEC (Cations - reactivity of your soil) and several other factors https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/5essential-parameters-crop-management/ PHOSPHORUS P is needed throught the plants life cycle. It is a tough cookie to handle. P deficiency cannot be completely regenerated, but symptoms may be made more mild. Phosphorus is highly reactive, so it is never found in free form, usually coming as phosphates or triphosphates. Phosphates are not as water solluble as N, for example, triphosphates are more. When using soil, one should take into account that P is relatively immobile, for it tends to bind with Fe (iron) present in clay particles. Therefore, one should incorporate reactive phosphate rock to the soil mix one or two months in advance, so as to have a fertility foundation on which to build upon. And think of keeping the availability of this nutrient stable. Read up P deficiency in staple crops for a good background on the subject. If making supersoil, stay away from bat guano. It is not only gross, but potentially harmful to one's health, especially if used 'in natura' (a guano collector may have been patient 0 for covid19 - one of the more solid theories around). Never use 'raw' or 'fresh' manure either, for it ferments and elevates soil temperature. Manure must have been prefermented (a manure heap, if properly tended, will produce usable fertilizer in 4 to 6 months). And it is toxic and a potential disease vector, as well. If using any animal droppings (guano, cow, chicken, turkey), mix with soil one or two months in advance, mix and water constantly. Worms help speed up the process. https://www.fda.gov/food/food-safety-modernization-act-fsma/raw-manure-under-fsma-final-rule-produce-safety
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrowsweek 13
Budding up nicely Troy👌. I hope the pH swings have settled for you. She does seem quite happy☺️
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrows
@Troy_McClure, I'm tuned in my friend and I await the next update. Keep up what you're doing and you'll carry them to the end, no problem.👌
JinksyGrows
JinksyGrows
@Mrs_Larimar, Exactly. I find that either people hate it or love it... but when the problems start with Ocean they don't seem to stop and it's a constant battle. I'm really enjoying my normal, non-amended soils. I like the idea of Ocean Forest because I felt the lack of control would be good and it would do my job for me. Now, I need that control back and basic, quality mediums are all I'll be hunting for now. I LOVE Dutch treat but my hydro shop stopped carrying it for stocking reasons (not enough to go around). Hence the 50/50 split of dutch treat I had left and the other 50% is canna-terra (which I actually do really like too...just not the potential pest problems it can carry). Keep spreading the word about Ocean, new comers need to know it may not be worth the trouble!!😮
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimar
@JinksyGrows, I absolutely agree. I know the ocean forest soils as troublemaker. Especially in seedlingsstage. because they are so " filled up" with "goodies"
Load more (3)
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 18
Using carboardboxes for the first days is avery good option too. I take biiig cardboardboxes, putting strings inside and hang them up ito the box. And here depends it to the temperature and rh of the envoirement too, if i let the box open or close it.... i let them hang into until the small branches snap with aloud noise, after tis i put them into jars growdiaries.com/diaries/30769-urban-chili-2-0-test
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Mrs_Larimar, Hey, thank you as always for you very generous help and advice! I think I will be doing it in my tent, my house rH is around 40-44%, and I have both the humidifier and dehumidifier to keep it around 55% rH. My basement is where the tent is located and its usually around 63-73 temps. So with the tent, I will have the carbon filter and fans helping out, with the exhaust fan set to the lowest setting 1/10 (approx 30cfm) and I think I will put both mini fans almost on the ground on low settings, just to make sure the air is moving a little, and face them towards the or floor. I think I will be doing a light wet trim, because I burnt the leaves so much with the lights, I rather get rid of all the the dead stuff Ive had to look at for the last month. Then I will have them into Jars with some integra boost 62% packs
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 16
Great visualisation of the Budsites. woow.....they look veery good
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Mrs_Larimar, thank you! We are hanging in there!!! they are protecting the most valuable places very well! very resistant strain :)
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 10
Thats a nice SCROG Setup...... looking like alot of airflow for the Plants. is it a dehumifidier under the plants=? Or the Heater=?
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Mrs_Larimar, thanks Mrs! the screen was late, but its coming along nicely during the flower stretch. It is the 30pt dehumidifer and there is no heater. temps go from 65 at the lowest on a cold day to 82 at peak on a warm day
Alejangrow
Alejangrowweek 3
Currently curing my first grow of some cks white widow now. Hope you have good luck with this strain. Looking forward to seeing what you can do with these girls. 😎👍🏼
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Alejangrow, how are your girls doing?
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 2
Nice Setup. looking well prepared and well set. I would check again if you have aplace that is warmer ... or if you can help to keep the heat inside by isolating the tent, and last step give them a infrared heater
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Mrs_Larimar, thanks for the tips, I've got the grow tent climate stabalized at 70-74 during 18H LED on and around 66 during 6H LED off. the humidifier needs to run 24/7 to avoid rH dropping below 40%
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 19
I see lots of cloudy trichomes now… yaay Looking very good. iam impressed of your " First timer" grow…..where will it end.. Looks like aoptimal setup
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 18
Days are counting down......she shows lots of resin
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 17
getting closer now.....lovely budsites
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 7
Get well soon.... i hope you get rid of your Cast soon
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 5
very well prepared and structured grow
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 4
They are growing Vigor with a happy green... wonderful
grownblow
grownblowweek 5
hey man, good luck with the grow. im waiting on my sf1000 as well and i just wanna know how far from the plant u have the light in veg?
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimar
@Troy_McClure,iam very courious and gonna follow up
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Mrs_Larimar, They had a good sale, so rather and wait until I see if I need them, or if they would significantly help, I went for it. I plan on having some really bushy 4x4 SCROG so they might be helpful for that, but I will try to be very careful if I do use them all for flower. Thank you for the advice as always, greatly appreciated
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimar
@Troy_McClure,sounds abit much 4 times the sf-1000 for flower......iam going with 150 watt for a 3x4 tent and its lots of light... iam growing between 4 and 6 plants in that tent and all plants developed nicely no lack of light
Load more (1)
JP148
JP148week 6
Maybe it’s a typo but you stated you were fed them Big Bloom . If so isn’t that the wrong fert. For mid veg state. Would explain some of your issues. Good luck 👍
JP148
JP148
@Troy_McClure, yeah flowering hey I’ve been wrong before just trying to help. Nice grow
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@@JP148, hey, the feeding schedule on the fox farm products suggests to use it with flowering
JP148
JP148week 19
Beautiful grow 🌱🍒. Congratulations on ur 1st place win. 👏👏👏
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@@JP148, Thank you very much
illest
illestweek 15
Nice grow! Its cool to see look at the plants and try to figure out whats wrong with them. Looking forward to seeing how you rebound!
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@illest, Thanks buddy! yea this one was a tough home stretch for me, soil ph and dialling in the climate took the girls for a rough ride but they are super resilient!
Noma420
Noma420week 12
Your ladies are growing beautifully !!! Nice job... waiting for the next updates!!! Good luck man💥💥🤙🏾
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Noma420, thanks!
Gardener_of_Goodness
Gardener_of_Goodnessweek 1
Quality start to what looks like a quality grow! Great write up and smart setup! AC Infinity extraction? Which lights are you using? SF? Are they dimmed for seedling stage? Following! Keep it up mate and all the best! 👌👍💨
Troy_McClure
Troy_McClure
@Gardener_of_Goodness, hey, thanks a lot! I'll be adding the specs details today and provide more pictures!
smokinghut
smokinghutweek 7
Troy, as a rule of thumb, plants prefer constant nutrient availability over boosts. Excess nutes stress plants out and nute deficiency does, too. Also, nutrient accumulation in soil / mix is more often than not toxic to roots. Phosphorus, Potassium and Nitrogen behave in totally different ways. NITROGEN N is highly volatile, hydrophilic and soluble in water. It will evaporate very rapidly if wet and exposed to air. It moves quickly throughout the medium. Plants absorb it quickly. It is easy to accidentally flush away. Think of it as sugar. It makes plants grow, basically. Avoid slow release N capsules when approaching the flowering stage, but, in moderation, they can be relatively safe during initial growth. POTASSIUM Comes in salt form (really toxic, never let it accumulate, concentrate). Soluble in water. Very ill advised to boost K. Used in flowering stage. IMPORTANT RATIOS Nutrient absorption depends on Ca:Mg ratio, pH and the CEC (Cations - reactivity of your soil) and several other factors https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/5essential-parameters-crop-management/ PHOSPHORUS P is needed throught the plants life cycle. It is a tough cookie to handle. P deficiency cannot be completely regenerated, but symptoms may be made more mild. Phosphorus is highly reactive, so it is never found in free form, usually coming as phosphates or triphosphates. Phosphates are not as water solluble as N, for example, triphosphates are more. When using soil, one should take into account that P is relatively immobile, for it tends to bind with Fe (iron) present in clay particles. Therefore, one should incorporate reactive phosphate rock to the soil mix one or two months in advance, so as to have a fertility foundation on which to build upon. And think of keeping the availability of this nutrient stable. Read up P deficiency in staple crops for a good background on the subject. If making supersoil, stay away from bat guano. It is not only gross, but potentially harmful to one's health, especially if used 'in natura' (a guano collector may have been patient 0 for covid19 - one of the more solid theories around). Never use 'raw' or 'fresh' manure either, for it ferments and elevates soil temperature. Manure must have been prefermented (a manure heap, if properly tended, will produce usable fertilizer in 4 to 6 months). And it is toxic and a potential disease vector, as well. If using any animal droppings (guano, cow, chicken, turkey), mix with soil one or two months in advance, mix and water constantly. Worms help speed up the process. https://www.fda.gov/food/food-safety-modernization-act-fsma/raw-manure-under-fsma-final-rule-produce-safety
Havingago
Havingagoweek 19
Grow was awesome... Well done 👍🍺