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Day 23 just taken all the big leafs off, tucket a couple more heads under the net. Was planning on flipping yesterday but going to give another week.
Found a little worm I believe to be fungus gnat larvae in my tank and I've caught about 6 tiny flys on sticking pads.
Day 24 today i flushed the pots with 1 part H202 16 water hopefully this will kill any larvae. Finding minimal flys on the sticky pads, only 1 a day if that.
Day 25 added polystyrene between the media and plants to keep the temp down in the pots and tank
Day 28. Flushed for the second time in 24hours and feeding only water. Can't control the pH. Going for 5.8 to 6.9 with in a hour, over and over. Ec climbed from 0.6 to 0.9, so I'm guessing the plants are dumbing excess feed back in to the tank.
Any idea how I can get the pH down in my tanks. I can add 1ml of pH down, bring to 5.6 then a hour later its back at 6.9. I repeat, hour later back to 6.9.
Im using drippers and rockwool in a Wilma but ph'd rockwool before use.
Never had problems keeping ph down before.
Hey, I saw that this is an old question and I hope you got it stabilized by now. The issue is in your nutrients. Most nutrients won't hold a steady pH. That is why I use maxigro and maxibloom. I have ran a reservoir for 2 weeks with no adjustments.
Keep in mind that when growing in water, the plants use hydrogen to perform nutrient exchange more than soil.. in soils or porus media, the exists a different relationship between the plants and soil biome.
Plants will employ micro-organisms to generate specific molecules for their needs via plant exudates. These are carbohydrates that the plant releases into the rhizosphere to attract particular organisms to perform certain tasks..be it organisms to produce nitrate and raise pH as found in more non Woody plants(mainly annuals that prefer bacterially dominate soils ) and ammonium nitrate produced by fungi ( mainly woody plants and longer lived perennials that prefer a more acid soil. Examples are garden soils that are bacterially dominate and forests that are more fungal dominate. As a gardener we can employ this knowledge to fine tune the rhizosphere to the plants needs.. A true gardener doesn't grow plants, they grow soil! That being said the same principals apply to hydro as well, only the microbes need to be added to solution, then nurtured. Carbs and calcium are a good base for feeding the microbes. Remember that bacterially dominate raises pH, fungaly dominate lowers pH..right at the rhizosphere in the case of mycorrhiza... Hope this helps you find a good alternate solution to the solution pH issue...Happy Gardening
Day 31. Ph still climbing fast daily.
Can only guess it from a lot of nuts being used altering the pH balance. Ec has dropped slightly 0.1 over night. All growth looks lush and healthy.
Still tucking new growth under and moving big shade leafs daily.
Noticed wen adding canna aqua vega to the tank the pH is dropping. All most as if the pH down is being locked up till the feed is some how unlocking it. Never had ph drop like that from adding feed before.
Day 32, 4days 12/12
Increased the EC slightly and it seams to of slowed the raising PH.
Slowly filling the net. Very slow growth tho, not sure I'll use JH under scrog again. Only bonus normally get nearly weeks of growth before she flips. A bit more time to feel the net.
@CRiSPrGrow
I am using rhizotonic that's a little old but the problem started on plain water while flushing. My theory after some research is the plants being in heavy veg growth are feeding on the nitrogen in the
nitic acid. Still not sure why adding the aqua vega is dropping the pH tho. Never had this before, even from the same bottle, which isn't very old. As I've added more feed the swing as slowed backing my theory the pH down is being feed on.
@Wilmaponics, your pH will always increase with plain water when you add oxygen to it. I have to watch my pH the first 2 weeks of growth since there is a low nutrient level. Once the nutrient level is increased it buffers the pH and holds steady
@dwchc, that makes loads of sense actually the main work is the custom parts, but the keep it simple principle is the key to success here, and tomato nutrients is all you need, for real though lol
@CRiSPrGrow, I use base salts and wettable powders in a custom blend of grow 1-potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, sulfate of potash, and chelated trace, then grow 2-a separate solution of calcium nitrate added an hour after andfor flower, a different blend of the above with no potassium nitrate used until two weeks before harvest where it's added in with Epsom with a bit of Cal nite and sulfate of potash (very weak solution). It seems complicated but its actually much simpler than the alternatives.. just copy and past the recipe over and over... Never fails! I learned this through hydroponic tomatoes, and it only needed minimum tweaking for cannabis..
@MaryJaneUSA, I do yes, but this time I'm going to stop tucking a week in to flower as they have little stretch and last time the tops where no more then 6 inches about the net.
Definitely not to late tho, as I tuck the main branches under almost everyday. Nothing is more then 45mm about the netting so nothing else can be tucked under on my 50mm netting.
Wilmaponics
