Blue Dream' Matic grow

Based on the trends, your buds are going to grow nicely. Keep watering in the same spirit without any "clean" flushes with water and starvation. You can flush, but you must use a nutrient solution. I have two serious inline fans in my tent that prevent moisture from lingering and developing mold. I don’t know about you, but nonetheless, until the 4th week of flowering (inclusive), spray Cal+Mag on the leaves. After that, it will be useless and unnecessary. And you can already add a quarter dose of phytosporin to your spray bottle. Or once a week according to the instructions. This is just in case to prevent mold from developing. Your Grow and Bloom should now switch places in terms of proportions. Also, keep the drainage output around 1000 PPM (essentially from 1500 to 2000 PPM in the substrate), otherwise, the leaves will start to wilt. Now you have full flowering and need to focus not on the previous output and current input, but just on the output, so your plant doesn’t starve and can always draw the necessary elements from the coconut. Your task is to maintain the integrity of the leaves so that the tips and edges don’t die off. The leaves should remain intact all the way to harvest. If you look at the photos of many growers, you’ll see that at harvest, their leaves turn into sad brown messes. That’s bad. That’s why they do what’s called TRIM. The leaves should be whole, and the buds are harvested together with the leaves, which also retain a lot of trichomes (unless you plan to make kif). When a leaf dies, the trichomes evaporate too. In the best case, during ripening, the leaves turn yellow or red, depending on the strain. Nitrogen and phosphorus leave them. The main thing is that potassium doesn’t leave, as its absence destroys the leaf structure. The leaf structure is the main transport for all nutrients, just like the stem. P.S. Zhgulёva?

With you, Sisters! Way “mutila” substrate, like! I used to bother washing and stabilization, but recently - I use a ready-made substrate... it remains only to be released from the packaging, put in a container and immediately grow on- health, stabilization and dop.pit.additives are present, of course more expensive than in blocks to buy, but saves time, nerves and the result is always the same - positive... no less than what promises sedent- bank. I dressed up Christmas tree - credit! 👍

A bit small for 3 weeks, my advice to you sis, forget about coconut, it's a constant hassle with it, at least for me. Soil mix is the way to go. I also have BD growing right now. You should see the 3-week-old coconut I threw out.

Hey there, Well done on your grow. We hope you have enjoyed growing our genetics !! Keep up the good work! Happy harvest!!! 🌾

The bud in the first photo is exactly like the bud from the Fastbuds site for this strain, respect to the breeder for the match👌 And of course, huge respect to the grower! If it's not too much trouble, could you take a full photo of the bush? 🙏

Excellent result! 👍

Cool! Good luck with the growing. Regarding the nutrient chart. Each strain absorbs nutrients differently, plus it depends on the roots. The ratios are manageable, but pH and PPM need to be monitored, and that's how you determine how and how much to water. The principle is simple! You need to remember three watering and measurement rules, or better yet, write them down in a table. PPM rises, pH drops: reduce the nutrient dose PPM drops, pH rises: increase the nutrient dose PPM stays the same, pH rises: all good Water it with clean water afterward to measure the readings, as the plant responds to feeding on the second day. At some point, you can just keep pouring the mix, based on how the bush is eating according to the readings.

Hey there! Thanks so much for growing our genetics 🙌 🏼 Let us know if you need any assistance Happy Growing! 💚 🌱

With Harvest Bro:) 🤩 👍

Well done. Very nice diary 👌

Same strain totally different phenotype! Yours look amazing

Looking great 😎 , good luck on your grow , have fun and all the best on the your road to harvest 👍

mmm nice 👆

Nice grow set up! Good luck 🙌

Well, that's good. Look how much it has shot up and out for you. But you're not getting much drainage. With your watering, it would be good to have half a liter, otherwise, you'll salt the substrate and then you'll have a hard time flushing it out. How much do you plan to harvest from the plant? Your pot is big, but there's not much light. I have 200 watts and a 3.8-liter pot. And you have 120 watts, I think, and about 10 liters. I can easily collect a two-liter jar of buds from my 3.8-liter pot. And in your conditions, I would do a FIM cut right now.

Look at the trichomes... if 1-2% have turned yellow, then you need to start ripening.

How's it going? Is there a difference from the last grow in terms of growth and dynamics? Do you like growing in coco? Is it not so scary anymore? For the future, I recommend a 4-liter pot. Autoflowers don't need more than that, and in 4 weeks of veg, the plant won't fill the pot with roots anyway. Plus, it's convenient to water: exactly 2 liters of nutrient solution. By morning, everything evaporates from the pot, the roots get to breathe oxygen, and you’ll never overwater the plant or create a swamp. Overall, 4 liters is just right! Don't flush too much with plain water. You won't adjust the pH, but you might mess up the PPM. Plain water is used when you want to remove strong salt buildup or when you’re drastically changing the nutrient solution. If you're worried about salt buildup, do this: place the pot in a container and pour in a regular dose of nutrient solution so that it all drains into the container and the pot is submerged by a third. Wait 2-3 minutes, take out the pot, then water it again with the same nutrient solution. Let it drain well. Check the pH and PPM. Only the nutrient solution can quickly and accurately adjust the pH and PPM. You won't be able to balance the pH with plain water, even if you pour in 30 liters, because cation exchange happens in the coco itself, especially with your hard water. And by the way, whether it's the photos that convey the color or something else, but the leaves are taking on a brownish tint. Check the petioles of the big old leaves from the bottom. If they are red all the way down, then there’s clearly a phosphorus deficiency. I noticed because your stigmas started to dry out - either it's too hot, or there really isn't enough phosphorus.

If you want to try it faster, break one bud into smaller buds, they'll dry quicker. The stem will push water into the buds until the very end. Usually, people dry the whole branch, but I prefer to separate the buds and dry them in the smallest fraction possible. They dry faster that way, and the stem doesn't push salts into the buds.

By the way, such light spots and patches in the center of the leaves usually indicate a magnesium deficiency (the plant was just hungry at that time). You have a great product from Advanced Cal+Mag. Take a spray bottle, dilute it at a rate of 2ml per liter, and spray the leaves a couple of times a day. This will cool the leaves and replenish the magnesium deficiency. In soil and substrates, potassium is the antagonist of magnesium. The color of the leaves will mostly lack magnesium because there will be an excess of potassium in the mix. And magnesium deficiency suppresses phosphorus uptake, which is needed for flowering. Even sensimilla will actively consume potassium because empty calyxes are forming for future seeds. So during the vegetative stage, the old leaves need to be well charged with magnesium so they don't yellow and die prematurely. Overall, throughout the period until the buds start swelling, you need to spray magnesium on the leaves. Plus, you have Flora Series for hard water, and there's plenty of magnesium in there. So just Cal+Mag on the leaves. Also, Advanced's NPK is 4-0-0. But I still add Cal-Mag to the mix while reducing Flora Micro because it also has a lot of magnesium and nitrogen. Magnesium during the vegetative stage increases green mass, but if you overdo it with magnesium and nitrogen, it can lead to nitrogen toxicity.

Wow.. look how lively the plant got on the third day, the leaves started to look like leaves. It’s going to start growing right before your eyes (check out my report for the 30th and 31st day after leaf trimming for reference), and in a couple of weeks, you won’t be able to keep up with watering the coco because it will suck up water instantly. Keep watering like you are. At least 30% of the nutrient solution in the drainage. It’s better to pour half, and then add the rest after 5 minutes. When I water during the veg stage, I shake the pot to let the excess drain out so the coco is just moist. Usually, there are no problems during veg, but they can start during flowering. By that time, we’ll guide you on what to do. If you notice that the drainage isn’t what you expect, flush with clean water at the right pH, then charge it. Many suggest alternating watering with nutrient solution and clean water, but I think that’s complete nonsense since coco is basically the same as hydroponics. During flowering, the output pH changes. The thing is, when the plant consumes nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium, it actually alkalizes the soil. So I recommend aiming for a pH of 6.9-7.1 during veg. In fact, when you pour in pH 5.6 and the output is 7.0, it means that at the time of watering, the pH was higher, around 8. So creating a deficiency or flushing with clean water is a mini stress. The environment, like in hydroponics, should be relatively stable. During veg, the plant releases more anions that alkalize the soil. Roots can actually thrive at a pH from 4 to 9, but at different pH levels, the absorption of different elements varies. You need to understand that when you pour nutrient solution at 5.6-5.8 and the output pH is 7.0, that’s about the ideal environment for soil. But the coco environment is neutral and cannot absorb substances. So during flowering, the consumption changes and potassium (the most), magnesium, iron, copper, and zinc are consumed more, but cations are released that acidify the soil. So during flowering, your output pH will actually decrease and may drop to 6.3-6.8. The main thing is to understand that you’re in flowering and the drainage will be different. The main focus is on PPM. We’ll guide you by that time. P.S. I had a bet with a colleague on who can grow mint and rosemary faster and better: we went to the store, bought seeds and substrates. Poor guy doesn’t know I’m an experienced grower and have the means and ways to grow. It’ll be fun when we compare results. P.P.S. I’d recommend lowering your lights even more. About 20 centimeters from the plants.